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TRAVELS 



THROUGH 

THE WESTERN INTERIOR 

OF THE 

Sjnited states, 

FROM THE YEAR 1808 tiP TO THE YEAR I8I65 

, WITH A 

PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION OF A GREAT PART OP 



-^lEXICO, OR NEW.SPAIN. 

# ■ •* 

COSTAINIIfff, 

Aparticular acjpunt of thirteen different tribes of Indians through which the author 
lassed; describing their Manners, Customs, &c.; wiUi some account of a tribe 
^hose customs are similar to those of the aucient W^h. ' 



• VALUABLE HIST 



f 




DRAWN FROM 



ELIZABETHTOWN, N. J. 

PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR. 

1816. 



Fd°i-^ 



. K 



'^ c> 



DISTRICT OF XEW'JERSEY, SS; 

Be it rewehbered, that on the thirtieth day ef May, in We fortietli' 
year of the Independence of the United States of America, Henry Ker, of t*^'" 
said district, hath deposited in this office the title of a book, the right wherec^^ .e 
claims as author, in the words following, to wit : 

" Travels through the Western Interior of the United States, from the year 
1808 up to the year 1816, With a particular description of a great part of Mexi- 
co, or New-Spain. Containing a particular account of thirteen different tribe^ of 
Indians through which the author passed ; describing their manners, customs, &c. ; 
"With some account of a tribe whose customs are similar to those of the anoeot 
Welch. Interspersed with valuable Historical information, drawr^frora the Ijtest 
authorities. By Henry Ker." i 

In conformity to an act of the congress of the United States, entitled, ** Ai act 
for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts and 
books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein aen- 
tioned :" and also to the act,.entitled, " An act supplementary to the act, entled. 
An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, oarts, 
and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times tet^ein 
mentioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engivinav. 
and etching, historical and other prints." 

ROBT. BOGGS, 
Clerk of tlie District of New-Jc ey. 

^ TraasJW 

AUG 12 1W7 



ERRATA. 
Page 63, bottom line, for, brig Dolphin, read, schooner Friendship. 
Page 1 80, twenty -first line from the top, for, the platina may he cut wit » a knifci^ 
read, by working round the platina with a knife large pieces of it may be (;4ken oaU 



•r 









PREFACE 



5-e^ 




The author begs leave to offer an explanation of some 
parts of the work, which he deems necessary for it to be 
well understood. When he first contemplated writing 
a history of his travels, his intention was to have given a 
correct diary of every transaction which might occur 
tliroughout his tour : but this he sochi found to be im- 
practicable. The notes which he took ivere many of them 
injured by the weather and other accidents which oc- 
curred on the journey, and, although the circumstances 
were fresh in his memory, the exact date could not be 
ascertained ; he has, therefore, introduced the dates where 
it was in his power, and where they were not to be had, 
left it to the judgment and candour of the reader to sup- 
ply the omission. 

Some apology is likewise necessary for the style of the 
work, which the author is fully sensible is in many places 
objectionable ; but he laboured under disadvantages in 
writing it, which it is impossible for him fully to ex- 
plain. 



iv PREFACE. 

It is hope^ a candid aild judicioifs ptfbfic ^ill select 
from the work such informatiou as may li^ correct, 
and that the remainder,* if* nm, vi^r net^^e irc^Hjted to 
wilful misrepresentation, but to the ignorance of the au- 
thor, and the impracticability of his procuring correct 
information. ^ ^. 



ff^ 



CONTENTS. 



CHAP. I. 

Pago 
Author's birth and education—General description of London — 

Author departs for the United States — Arrives at Charles- 
ton — Travels into the interior — Large rattlesnake - 9 
CHAP. n. 

Author descends the river French Broad — Description of the 
river — Lead mines — Description of Tennessee river — Chick- 
asaw Indians — Ohio river — Grandeur of the Missisippi — 
Causes which render its navigation so dangerous - 21 

CHAP. in. 

Alarm of the author for his salety, with the melancholy fate of 
one of his men — General cbservat ons on the country —De- 
scription of the Osark Indians — Arrival at Natches — Pleas- 
ing appearance of the sugar plantations - - - 27 
CHAP. IV. 

Arrival at New-Orleans — Description of the city — Its rapid im- 
provement — Causes why it is sickly - - - - 4(j 
CHAP. V. 

Author goes to Jamaica — Leaves Jamaica for Port au Prince — 
Description of a singular cave — Author takes passage for the 
United States, and is shipwrecked — Melancholy death of 
Capt. Crasewell — Author returns to Kingston in Jamaica — 
Departs for the United States, and arrives at New-Orleans 51 

CHAP. VI. 
Author leaves New-Orleans — Ascends the Red river — Arrives 
at Natchitoches — Beauty of the country — Arrives among the 
Cadoe Indians — Vast herds of buffalo and deer — Description 
of streams which empty into Red river — Singular cave - 74 

CHAP VIL 
Author arrives among the Uames Indians — Ascends a branch of 
Red river — Salt spring — Immense herds of buffalo — Returns 



VI CONTENTS. 

to Red river — Arrives among the Ilisees Indians — Copper 
mine — Indian iiunt— Author parts with his boat and proceeds 
by land to the source of Red river ... .' PO 

CHAP. VIII. 

More particular description of the Ilisees — Danger of the author » 
from wild beasts — Arrives at a settlement of Spaniards and 
Indians— Story of my Spanish host — Parathee Indians - 105 
CHAP. IX. 
Difficulties i;.^ crossing the river Gagundo — Alligators — De- 
scription of the Badies Indians — General remarks on the 

nature of the savages 115 

CHAP. X. 
Salt springs — Description of a large snake which the author 
killed — Indian hunting camp — Author loses his rifle - 1 30 
CHAP. XI. 
Author arrives at the town of the Yarotees — Is requested to af- 
ford assistance in a war — ^Weapons of the Yarotees - 1 39 
CHAP. XII. 
Success of the Indian enterprise — Author leaves the Yarotees — 
Similarity between many of their religious ceremonies and 
those of the ancient Jews — Comparison of ancient prophecies 145 
CHAP. XIII. 
Author encounters a bear — Observations on the decline of the 
Spanish monarchy — Author kills an elk - - - \5$ 
CHAP. XIV. 
Author arrives among the Mnacedeus Indians, and accompanies 
them on a hunt — Their consternation at seeing firearms 1^ 

CHAP. XV. * 

Author visits a larger village of the Mnacedeus — Observes 
strong marks of their Welch origin — Finds considerable pla- 
tina in their possession — Feigns sickness — Curious treatment 1 67 

CHAP. XVI. 

Author is introduced to a white man — His account of himself — 
Author gains his confidence and is shown the platina mine 173 

CHAP. XVII. 

Melancholy of the white man — Author is sentenced to be shot, 
and is rescued by the chief's daughter — Pursues his journey 18 



CONTENTS. vii 

CHAP. XVIII. 

General observations on the country — Author meets a party of 
Indians and accompanies them to their camp — Their superi- 
ority to the Mnacedeus — Description of odoriferous shrubs 
and trees found on the mountains — Delay in the journey 192 

CHAP. XIX. 
Author enters the Mexican empire — General account of the pro- 
vince of Tula — Author visits a monastery — Xilotepec - 200 
CHAP. XX. 
Particular description of the city of Xilotepec — Description of a 
natural bridge similar to that in A^irginia — Description of a 
cave — Author arrives at the city of Mexico - - 209 

CHAP. XXI. 
General description of Mexico and its inhabitants - - 218 

CHAP. XXII. 
Description of the vale of Mexico — Climate, volcanoes, rivers, 
, lakes, and mineral productions of the country - - 225 

CHAP. XXIII. 
Vegetable productions of Mexico — Description of a tree which 
produces liquid amber — Description of animals peculiar to 
Mexico — Great variety of birds . - - . 234 

CHAP. XXIV. 
Description of reptiles found in Mexico — Zoophytes - 245 

CHAP. XXV. 

Particular description of the inhabitants of the Mexican empire 
— Inhumanity of the first conquerors of Mexico — Humane 
interposition of Las Casas — Illiberality of the government 250 
CHAP. XXVI. 
Review of the benefits which have resulted to Europeans from 
the discovery of America — Expedition of Cortez > - 263 

CHAP XXVII. 
Author's further residence in Mexico being unsafe, he leaves 
the country — He is surrounded by a banditti and taken to 
their cave— He acquires the frieodsbip of the captain - 26S 
CHAP. XXVIII. 
The band go on an exp^ dition, and confine the author during 
their absence — Ctuarrel between the^captaia and one of the men 282 



viu CONTENTS. 

CHAP. XXIX. 

Author leaves the cavern — Reflections oo his former situation 
and present prospects — Arrival at Natchitoches - - ^293 
CHAP. XXX. 

Departure for the Tuckapau and ApaUisa towns— Chickasaw 
Indians — Nashville — Enchanted mountain - - - 299 

CHAP. xxxr. 

Knoxville — Medical spring — Abingdon — Georgetown - 309 

CHAP. XXXII. 

Lexington — Mammoth bones — Tradition of the Shawanese 318 

CHAP. XXXIII. 
General information respecting the western country - 325 

CHAP. XXXIV. 
White Court house — Choctaw Indians— St. Stephens — Mobile 
— Pensacola-^Observations on the soil of West-Florida 328 

CHAP. XXXV. 

Author starts for the northern parts of the United States - 336 

CHAP. XXXVI. 

Fort Hawkins — Remains of the ingenuity of the Indians — Au- 
gusta — Manner in which the Georgians spend their time 341 

CHAP, xxxvir. 

Columbia — Camden — Pedee river — Fayetteville - - 347 

CHAP. XXXVIII. 
Description of the soil, climate, &c. of North-Carolina, with the 
character of its inhabitants - - - - . 354 

. CHAP. XXXIX. 
Wilmington, N. C. — Author sails for Philadelphia — Wilming- 
ton, Del. -../..--- 357 
CHAP. XL. f 
General description of the city of Philadelphia - -" 364 

CHAP. XLL 
Trenton — Princeton— New Brunswick — Elizabethtown — Con- 
clusion of the author's travels 369 



TRAVELS, &c. 



CHAP. L 

Autlwr's birth and education — Disposition fox a xvander- 
ing life — London — General description of it — Puhli<: 
buildings — St, James'' s Palace — Schools — Povert^^ of 
the poorer class — Departure for Charleston — Intelli- 
gence and hospitality of the inhabitants — Travels in 

the interior Orangeburgh Columbia — Abbeville — 

Greenville — Bunkum— rJ^arm Springs — Large rattle- 
Make — Arrival at Newport. 

The author thinks it necessary, before he commences 
a detailed account of his journey, to say something 
relative to his friends and family. When any one intrudes 
himself upon public notice, every person will naturally 
enquire, Whence came he ? Who were his family? &c. 
These queries I shall endeavour to answer, as soon and 
as satisfactorily as possible. 

I was born in Boston, in the state of Massachusetts. 
My father, when I was at an early age, removed to Lon- 
don, where I continued until I was at the age of man- 
hood. My infantile years I shall pass over in silence,, 
and shall only observe, that I was placed at Westminster 



10 KER'S TRAVELS. 

schoo!, and received such an education as would fit me 
for common business. My propensity for a wandering 
life, however, was very strong, and I found it impossi- 
ble to content myself in the dull routine of employments 
which had not noveky to recommend them to the atten- 
tion of a mind, already dazzled by the glowing description 
which I received of that part of southern America which 
had been but superficially explored. My mind already 
roamed over a country, which was said to be rich in every 
thing which could render the life of man agreeable, and 
superabundantly contained that which is now considered 
as the standard of merit, and without which, let our 
talents and virtue be ever so great, we are under the ne- 
cessity of standing in the back ground, and giving way to 
one* who can count more thousands than oiu'selves, and 
see him placed in the seat of honour, and complimented 
with the greatest respect. Educated in what has been 
called the metropolis of Europe, it may not be thought 
improper that I should give a general account of it. 

London, the capital of the British empire, is asserted 
by Mr. Pinkerton to be the largest city in Europe ; 
whilst others are disposed to allow Paris not only to be the 
largest in point of popvdation, but in the extent of ground 
which it covers. Without entering into any discussion 
on this subject, it is certain that it was a very flourishing 
city in the time of Nero, and when the Roman empire 
was at its zenith of prosperity ; it received some conside- 
rable privileges under the Emperor Augustus, and he not 
only laid the foundation, but completed an aqueduct, 
which, for magnificence, was not surpassed by any thing 
of that time, and the ruins of which may be seen at this 
day. It was, at a very early period, made the residence 
of the British court, and almost every king granted it 




11 



le privileges. ^Tifmetime of Henry VIII. 
when almost every city lost its charter, that of London 
was confirmed, and its citizens protected. It includes 
the suburbs of Westminster and Southwark, which, it is 
thought, will be the handsomest part of the city. The 
streets are for the most part narro^v, and the general ap- 
pearance irregular. Had the improvements which were 
suggested by Sir Christopher Wren, after the great fire 
of 1666, been followed, it would have been the most 
elegant and beautiful city in Europe ; but the parsimony 
of its citizens prevented them, at that time, from making 
such improvements as would have been highly beneficial 
at the present period. Its docks, and other convenien- 
ces for commerce, are excellent, and admit of very little 
improvement. The London dock is a fine harbour for 
vessels, and under such excellent regulations as render it 
one of the finest places -in the world for foreign ships 
which are lading and unlading. At six in the evening 
the gates are shut, which is notified by the ringing of a 
bell, and no person is allowed to go out or come in, until 
a certain hour in the morning. At nine o'clock the lights 
on board of each ship are required to be put out : a non- 
compliance subjects to the penalty of five poimds. 
Watchmen are stationed at proper places during the 
night, and every thing is calculated for the security and 
protection of property. 

The public buildings of London are many, and some 
of them very convenient and elegant. The Royal Ex- 
change is said to be the largest and most convenient pub- 
lic building in Europe, next to that of Amsterdam, after 
^v hose model it is built. It has been proudly asserted by 
its merchants, that goods to the amount of more than ten 
millions of pounds have been sold in one day ; and certain 



:^"^Nv^ 



12 KER'i TRAVELS. .^ ^ 

it is, that at particular noiirs you may find nicrchaMs 
from almost all parts of the globe ; Japanese, Chinese, 
Grecians, Turks, Spaniards, Frenchmen, and Ameri- 
cans, mingling and conversing as familiarly together as 
though they had been born neighbours. The British 
merchants are said to be punctual and honourable in their 
dealings, but are too apt to plunge into speculations be- 
yond their capital and become involved in debt. Hence 
arise those large failures of which we almost every day 
hear, and which are often very fatal to many industrious 
and worthy men : but, however, the instances are rare, 
where a British merchant fails for the purpose of defraud- 
ing his creditors, and such is their liberality, that they 
generally give him an opportunity of compromising on 
liberal terms. 

The Mansion House is a large stone building, which 
has nothing very remarkable to recommend it to the at- 
tention of travellers, except a gallery of paintings, in 
which are some well executed pieces ; among which is 
one representing our Saviour on the cross, and another 
xepresenting him talking with the Samaritan, &c. Many 
of the rooms are spacious and elegant, particularly the ball- 
room; and some of them furnished with taste and elegance. - 

Guildhall is a large and spacious edifice, where most of 
the public business in flie city is done, and where the dif- 
ferent incorporated bodies have their rooms, for the pur- 
pose of transacting business : there are a number of these 
bodies, almost every trade associating together, for the 
purpose of regulating journeymen's wages, the premiums 
to be given by apprentices, prices of work, &:c. Many* 
of the companies are wealthy, and have been of much 
public benefit, by contributing to the wants of the poo^ 
in times of scaixity and distress. 



KER^S TRAVELS. 13 

The places of public worship are numerous, being 
upwards of five hundred in number, some of them very 
elegant, and all worthy of notice. St. Paul's, being the 
most remarkable, Vidll be particularly mentioned. It ^vas 
built by Sir Christopher Wren, after an exact model of 
the one at Rome, and is the most surprising monument 
of one man's ingenuity, of any thing in the world. It is 
built in the form of a cross, of white freestone ; it is 
adorned at the corners with the figures of the four Evan- 
gelists, and over the door is an elegant representation of 
St. Paul, as large as life. In the body of tlie church are 
many fine monuments, reared by the munificence of the 
British government, for the purpose of doing honour to 
those who fell in her service. Among them is one erected 
to the memory of Major General Abercrombie, who fell 
in Egypt, a most masterly piece of sculpture, which does 
honour to the artist who designed and executed it. A 
monumental statue of the celebrated philanthropist 
Howard, is here erected, and will transmit to posterity 
the virtues and benevolence of a man, who went about 
doing good, and spent his whole life in endeavours to 
ameliorate the distresses of the most -wretched and misera- 
ble part of creation. Another, in the centre of the 
church, is erecting, to perpetuate the memory of the im- 
mortal Nelson, who fell at the battle of Trafalgar. He 
certainly attained to a high degree of naval skill, and had 
it not been for his excessive pride, might justly have been 
called great. 

St. James's Palace, where the court of the present reign- 
ing monarch is kept, has very little in its exterioi' to 
recommend it to a traveller \vho is a connoisseur in archi- 
tecture. It is an irregular building, and of difterent 
orders of architecture, having had many additions made 



14 KER'S TRAVELS. 

to it by the different reigning sovereigns : the interior, 
however, is furnished in a style of magnificence which 
makes ample amends for its exterior. The rooms are 
sj5acious, and some are wainscotted with English oak, 
which gives them a very novel and handsome appearance. 
'Those parts of the house which are occupied by his 
Majesty, are distinguished for their plainness: indeed, this 
monarch has never shown a strong desire for parade and 
magnificence, being contented to be led by those who 
are plkced about ,his person, and to yield a blind obedi- 
ence to the directions of his ministers. The buildings 
situated around it, and at the west end of the town, are 
distinguished for their elegance, and for the spaciousness 
of their rooms. Luxury is carried to a very great height 
in this city, not only in the dress and equipage, but in 
every thing, however minute, which is found in a noble- 
man's house. The Duke of Portland built a palace, 
sometime since, that cost 250,000/. sterling ! 

The public seminaries for the instruction of youth are 
numerous, and many of tliem well supported : there are 
about five thousand schools, one half of which may be 
considered as supported by the different public bodies, 
churches, &c. 

The great numbers of paupers which daily infest the 
streets, are a great annoyance to passengers, at the same 
time that they prove the excessive wretchedness and 
misery which has pervaded the British capital. There 
are one hundred and twenty-two asylums for the poor, 
besides hospitals and infirmaries to receive those who are 
sick ; yet such is the number of beggars, tliat it is al- 
most impossible to go an hundred yards without being 
saluted by half a dozen, humbly intreating for a morsel 
of bread ^^ «^'^+icfv thf^ rravinp-s of huns:er. Thev arc. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 15 

generally, disabled soldiers or sailors, who, having lost an 
arm or a leg, are obliged to beg theii' bread from door to 
door. Such ts the fate of men, who, having toiled arid 
bled in their country's service, are now reduced to the 
greatest distress. Although government pretends to pro- 
vide for them, the provision is swallowed up by the multi- 
tude of officers who are placed over them, and very little of 
it reaches the poor wTCtches for whom it is collected. — 
But enough of misery and distress : I turn with pleasure 
to contemplate a government which has uniformly sup- 
ported the unfortunate, and which will ever be the pro- 
tector of those who expose themselves in the ^* batde's 
front" for their country's good. The United States have 
ever displayed a generosity in that respect, which it would 
have been much to the credit of Europe had she general- 
ly followed. '' 

In a city containing six hundred thousand people, it is 
to be expected that there should be all gradations, from 
the extreme of virtue, to that of vice ; and it is calcu- 
lated that there are upwards of twenty-six thousand pros- 
titutes, and more than fifty thousand men who get their 
living by gambling and theft. I shall make no com- 
ments, but leave it to the reader to determine, whether a 
nation can be happy which has more than one-eighth of 
the population of its capital made up of ^vretches who 
are unfit for civilized society, and not worthy to be con 
sidered as any other than the dregs of mankind. 

Being desirous of an expeditious passage to the United 
States, I engaged my passage on boai'd the ship Bedford, 
Captain Dennison, and after having bid my friends an af 
fectionate adieu, I proceeded to Gravesend and went on 
board. The wind proving unfavourable, we were de^ 
tained in the roads four days : the Avind then bein^ more 



16 KER'S TRAVELS. 

propitious, ^ve took our departure from the land on the 
25th of April, 1808, and steered for Charleston. The 
first ten days of our voyage were pleasariC, and nothing 
remarkable took place until we made the Western Islands^ 
when a severe gale came on, which lasted four days ; it 
blew with extreme violence, and the Captain informed me 
that such gales were frequent in these latitudes, owing, as 
he imagined, to the air from off the Atlantic rushing for- 
w^ard to supply the place of the rarefied air in and about 
the Western Islands. The weather soon herame mode- 
rate, and we iirrived at Charleston after a passage of 
thirty-five days. 

I had now arrived- in a country which gave me birth, 
but from which, ever since I was an infant, I had been 
absent. My feelings were wrought up to the highest 
pitch of expectation, and they were not disappointed : I 
found the people hospitable and intelligent, and every way 
disposed to give me that information for which I sought. 
I had in cash about two thousand dollars, and immedi- 
ately set about purchasing a horse and such other articles 
as I should want on my journey, determining to make no 
delay in its prosecution. 

It \vas my determination to visit some unexplored 
parts, in quest of the hidden stores of nature, with which, 
it was reasonable to suppose, the country abounded. 
During my stay here, which was about two months, I 
had an opportunity of discovering the different disposi- 
tions of the people. Some intriguing characters took 
great pains to lead me into the theory of gaming ; but 
I found afterwards they were more willing to swindle me 
in the practical part. After losing a little in this way, I 
wholly renounced all kinds of gambling. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 17 

On the 10th of August I left Chai'leston. The weath- 
er, being extremely ^\'Hrm, was to me very unpleasant : 
but knowhig that I must become a constant companion of 
heat and cold, fatigue, hunger, thirst, and toil, I con- 
tented myself with the anticipation of hereafter at- 
tributing something to myself, or being richly stored with 
experience. I that day travelled about twenty miles, 
and at sunset put up \vith a gentleman, by whom 
I was well treated. After breakfast, I set out with an 
old man, who was travelling on the same road. From 
him I received much information. His knowledge was 
experimental ; and he gave me new plans to act upon, 
which I have since found advantageous. In him I 
could perceive the workings of anxiety for mvseif. My 
ardour and impatience, he had penetration to see, would 
frequently expose me to those impositions, sufferings, and 
dangers, inevitably attendant upon an inexperienced travel- 
ler, among rude and inhospitable men, and furious savages. 
Nothing worthy of note occurred during my journey to 
Orangeburgh, a small town containing 40 or 50 houses, a 
court-house, and goal: it Js about ninety miles from 
Charleston, and stands on the east side of the north branch 
of the Edisto river. From thence I steered my course 
to Columbia, a beautiful town situated in Kershaw 
county, about half a mile from the Congaree river, on 
the east side, just below the confluence of Saluda and 
Broad rivers. It is regularly built, and contains about 
two hundred houses, many of which are neat and of 
brick, also a state-house : it is one hundred and twenty 
miles north northwest of Charleston, and is the seat of 
government for the state of South- Carolina, in latitude 
32'' 58' north, and 80° 50' west longitude. The second 
dav after mv arrival in Columbia, I "was violentlv attack- 



18 KER'S TRAVELS. 

ed with the biHoiis fever, which confined me to my 
room for diirty days, and was attended with considerable 
expense. 

About the middle of September I again set out, satis- 
fied with having had a change of climate. After travel- 
ling two days 1 arrived at Abbeyville, a small village on 
a fertile spot of ground. Such spots I found to be very 
few during my journey over a sandy, bturen waste of 
country. In this neighbourhood are many good tampers, 
who raise cotton, tobacco, &c. From this place I 
went to Greenville, a pleasant town, situated on the 
west side of the Great Pedee river ; it contains about 
fifty houses, besides a court-house, goal, and acade- 
my ; it is ninety miles northeast of Columbia. Here I 
staid a few days at the house of Col. Alston^ a gentleman 
of respectability, from whom I received much valuable in- 
formation relative to the adjacent states, their commercial 
interests, enterprising spirit of the Americans, &c. He 
spoke highly of the country west of the Missisippi, wish- 
ing me great success in my undertaking. During my 
stay here I was free of expense, and under the direction 
of one, whose knowledge was extensive and useful. 

From Greenville, I went to Bunkum in North-Caro- 
lina, a small town subject to different titles, such as 
Upper and Lower Hog-thief, Scurmagefiil, and Scuffle- 
town. Whether these terms correspond with the gene- 
ral character of the inhabitants, or not, I am unable to 
determine. Here are a court-house and goal, and many 
good fiirms adjacent. From this place I steered my 
course for the Warm Springs, a distance of about forty 
miles, through a broken, mountainous, and hilly country, 
wishing to spare no pains in visiting all natural curiosit-es. 
After winding through many romantic scenes I airived at 



KER'S TRAVELS. 19 

Mr. Nelson's, the proprietor of the springs, who keeps a 
commodious house for the purpose of entertaining visitors, 
and had, at the time of my arrival, upwards of eighty- 
boarders, afflicted with different diseases. How bountiful 
is nature, in opening her medical treasures to oppose and 
combat the afflictions laid on the human system. I was 
informed of several wonderful cures effected by these 
springs. An elderly gentleman, who was afflicted witfi 
the palsy, and had been for ten years a burthen to himself, 
and an object of sorrow to his friends, reduced to a mere 
skeleton and seemed to be hovering over the grave ; on 
making use of the water, die first ten days had no effect ; 
but after remaining there three months was completely 
restored to health. He was upwards of seventy years old, 
and on his return home, which was in South- Carolina, 
he was unknown by his wife, having a fresh countenance ; 
the blood flowed freely tlirough hiiy withered veins, and 
in two years two fine children were added to his family. 
A boy of about sixteen, who was much afflicted with the 
jaundice, insomuch tliat he had become completely 
yellow, on using these waters was restored to health, and 
received his natural colour. It has also proved an enemy 
to the fever and ague, a malady so prevalent in the south- 
ern states. There are several of tliese springs, in one of 
which the thermometer stands at 80°. Over this there is 
a bathing-house constructed for the convenience of each 
sex. These springs are in lat. SS"" 50' north, 710 miles 
southwest of Philadelphia, and hid in a cluster of rocks of 
stupendous size, hanging over the astonished -beholder, 
and their bowels pregnant with restorative fluids. 

" Cliffs heaped on cliifs, high towerhig to the skies, 
" While deep in earth their solid basis Ues.*' 



20 KER'S TRAVELS. 

This countiy is watered with ttiany beautiful streams, 
which ghde swiftly through the sands — a pleasant sight 
to a weary traveller. During my stay here, which ^vas 
about a week, I. took a little excursion into the country, 
and on my return killed a large rattlesnake, measuring six 
feet in length and nine inches in circumference. On my ap- 
proaching him he lay in a posture of defence, with his up- 
per-jaw thrown back at a right angle with the lower, his head 
raised eight or ten inches from the ground, launching 
forth his pointed tongue, dipped in \uenom, exhibiting his 
crooked fangs,' and striking dumb terror to his enemies. 
This being the first snake of the kind I had ever seen, I 
dared not move for fear of being chased ; but drcAv out 
one of my pistols and shot him in the back, which disa- 
bled him from running. He then unsluiced his rage, 
choaking himself with poison, biting himself in several 
places, and in ten nlinutes died witli his tusks in his 
own body. There were on his tail twenty rattles, \vhich, 
as I was informed, indicated his age to be twenty years. 
The bite of this snake is supposed by many to be incurable. 
It has, however, been repeatedly proved, that immediate 
applications an*est the progress of the poison of tliis ven- 
omous reptile. A mixture of a decoction of plantain and 
s^veet oil, applied externally, and taken at the same time 
as a drink, has been found very efficacious. 

On the 27th of September, the weather being pleasant^ 
I set out for Newport, a small town on the river French 
Broad. At sunset I arrived, having much difficulty in 
finding the town ; for it was hid in a deep valley. It is 
the most licentious place in the state of Tennessee, con- 
taining pbout twenty houses of sloth, indolence, and dis- 
sipation. It is not my desire to stigmatize the character 
of any place ; but Vv hen I discover people inhabiting a 



KER'S TRAVELS. 21 

Gountry of so much importance, and w here they live in 
peace and plenty, subject only to wholesome laws, con- 
tinually violating the laws of God and their country, I can- 
not avoid expressing my disgust, and considering them an 
injury to their country, and a disgrace to the human family . 



CHAP. II. 

The author descends the river French Broad-— Descrip- 
tion of the river — Prevalence of fogs — Plenty of game 
— Bears — Lead mines — Leaky boat obliges me to 
unlade — Excessive rains — Fort Granger — Description 
of Tennessee river— Description of the Chickasaw tribe 
of Indians— Enters the Ohio— Beauty and richness of 
its banks — Singular occurrence at the mouth of Ohio 
river— Grandeur of the Missisippi— Great quantity of 
drift-wood— Severe storm — Perilous situation of the ^ 
author— Causes why the navigation of the Missisippi 
river is rendered so dangerous — General description of 
it. 

At Newport I sold my horse, and purchased an ark, or 
flat-bottomed boat, of about twelve tons burthen, and hired 
three men to descend the river to New- Orleans. On the 
1st of October I beg^n to descend French Broad. This 
river runs a northwest course about 25 or 30 miles, and 
joins the Holston ; it is very difficult for strangers to pass, 
in consequence of the number of rocks which lie scattered 
in the river. It is four or five hundred yards wide at its 



22 KER'S TRAVELS, 

mouth. The next morning, at sunrise, we enterd the 
Holston, a considerable stream, about 200 miles in 
length ; in its course it receives the Watauga and French 
Broad, and is navigable for crafts of thirty tons burthen 
100 miles from its mouth. Its shores abound with much 
valuable timber of all kinds. There are many indolent 
people who inhabit these shores, who live solely by hunt- 
ing and fishing, being very different from those who live 
in the inhabited parts of the state. The heavy fogs, which 
frequently arise on these rivers, often detained us for hours, 
in w^hich time 1 would frequently take a little tour with 
my gun. This country abounds with game of all kinds, 
delightful for a sportsman. In one of these excursions, 
I shot a bear as he was clumsily getting down a tree : the 
ball entered the fleshy part of his body, and he fell to the . 
ground. In his fall he was much stunned, and thinking 
him dead, I went towards him. On my approach he 
raised himself for an attack. I soon retreated, and 
getting into the top of a fallen tree, waited his motion. He 
passed the tree without seeing me, and before I could 
load and get down, ^vas out of sight. However, I traced 
him by the blood about a mile, where I found he had 
crossed a small creek, but was too weak to climb the 
bank on the opposite side. I here took deliberate aim, 
and shot him dead. Returning, I sent two of my men 
after him. When dressed, he weighed four hundred 
pounds. 

There are several lead mines on these rivers ; one of 
them, on the French Broad, is very extensive. 

On the 5th October my boat sprang a leak, and I ^vas 
obliged to take her cargo out and repair her, which em- 
ployed me for two days. During this time the river rosf 



KERS TRAVELS. 23 

seven or eight feet, there having been successive rains for 
several clays. After reloading we again started, and the 
Holston soon swept us down to its mouth. At this 
place stands Fort Granger, which is 370 miles south- 
west of Richmond, in Virginia. The Holston empties 
into the Tennessee, a beautiful and bold river, which 
gives name to the state. It rises in the mountains of 
South-Carolina, in latitude about 34° nordi, and is up- 
wards of a thousand miles in length, running a north- 
westerly course to latitude 30° north, then turning in a 
circular manner to the north, it mingles with the Ohio, fifty 
miles from its mouth. 

Boats of almost any burthen can ascend to the Muscle 
Shoals, which are near three hundred miles from its moutli* 
Through these shoals the navigation is diflicult. They 
are three or four miles in breadth, interspersed with small 
islands, and dividing the stream into many channels. 
I'he water is very shallow^ and runs with great rapidity. 
The name is derived from the quantity of shells and fresh- 
water clams found on the bottom and shores. 

This river is well stored with all kinds of fish common 
in fresh waters. There is a part of the Chickasaw tribe 
of Indians that inhabit these shores : of them I purchased 
a piece of venison weighing twenty pounds. They live 
transiently in wigwams, and many of them wear clothing. 
They are very docile ; but addicted to theft, and are few in 
number. In going down the Tennessee, we had pleasant 
weather, except the nightly fogs, which were injurious 
to my health. Time passed away with me, unusually 
slow ; thinking my experience was not adequate to my 
present proceedings, and yet not wishing to abandon my 
undertaking, I passed the time as cheerfully as possible, 
knowing I must be weaned from all scenes of rural and fan- 



54 KER'S TRAYELis. 

ciful pleasure. During our passage down this river, we pass- 
ed several small towns, which I shall not here describe. 

On the 16th of October we entered the Ohio, a river 
universally acknowledged to be the most beautiful of any 
on the continent, or perhaps in the world. It receives 
many tributary streams, all of which flow through an ex- 
tensive countrv of rich soil, and covered with valuable tim- 
ber of immense size. I shall not here particularly de- 
scribe tlie Ohio, reserving such description for a subse- 
quent part of my journal. On entering this river, I found 
the water to be at a medium height, the current delight- 
fully gentle, and the waters clear, with elevated banks. 
When we airived near the mouth, we found the current 
diminishing, and our boat on the point of stopping, the 
cause then unknown to me ; when all of a sudden, 
I beheld the Missisippi flowing down with pomp and 
gi'andeur. 

This river, being much higher than the Ohio, seemed 
to look upon it with disdain, and receive it with reluc- 
tance. On entering the Missisippi, we found ourselves 
carried down by an impetuous current. Night coming 
on, and looking likely for a storm, I thought it best to 
come too, which we did after an hour's hard labour. 
We made several attempts to gain certain objects, but 
were carried by them with gi'eat rapidity, and our boat 
being clumsy, it was with much difficulty that we stopped 
six or seven miles below thfe mouth of the Ohio. Our 
situation was disagreeable that night, for as ^\t lay in a 
bend of the river, the drift-wood would set over towards 
us. As night had come on, and our boat was unmanage- 
able, we concluded not to look for a better situation, but 
keep a strict watch with poles, to keep off* the drift. Next 
morning a storm arose with the sun, and only gave me 



KER'S TRAVELS. 25 

time to look a little harbour ; it blew a perfect hurricane 
for six hours, in which time my hauser broke, but being 
in a small bayau, it did but little injury. It continued to 
blow hard all night, and a more tremendous storm I 
never witnessed. Our situation was more dangerous 
here, than when we lay in the river, on account of the 
large trees around us. We could hccir, at intervals, the 
dismal crash of trees at a distance ; one faUing directly 
across the mouth of the bayau, put us in the greatest fear. 
The next morning the storm abated, and after cutting a 
passage through the fallen trees, we cleared out with 
caution. 

The navigation of the Missisippi is rendered somewhat 
difficult, and often dangerous, in consequence of the 
numerous islands, sawyers, planters, &c. which stand 
in every part of the river. 

Sawyers are large trees standing with their tops fast 
rooted in the mud, and their butts projecting, some two, 
some six, and some twenty feet out of the water, inclin- 
ing down with the current, which keeps them in con- 
stant motion, rising and falling ; from which they derive 
their name. They often prove fatal to boats that happen 
to strike upon them. Their weight is such that they 
will raise a craft of forty or fifty tons burthen. Old 
boatmen say they have known them to stand for twenty 
years, and some not more than two months, appearing 
and disappearing at different times and different places ; 
so that the river is always new to an old boatman, and 
he must k^ep a constant look-out. 

Besides these there are the planters, which stand point- 
ing up stream, some ynder and some above the surface. 
They are permanently fixed. Those just under th« 
>\'ater, may be kno^n by a breach they produce in th^ 

4 



i2d KER'S TRAVELS. 

water from the rapidity of the cuiTent. "Boats are often 
stove that run against them. 

There are also many ilsands, formed by the drift- 
^vood lodging against the planters above-mentioned - 
These islands are large and very frequent in this river, 
some of tliem increasing, and others diminishing. Travel- 
lers, in going down the Missisippi, are advised on ap- 
proaching these islands, to ro^v in time into one or other 
of the sucks, as boats are often carried on their heads, 
and a saild-bar always projects some distance above. 

The rapidity of this river, and the< great depth of its 
waters, produce numerous boils, or whirlpools, which ex- 
tend from shore to shore, and frequently luise under boats, 
turning them quite round. They arise from the bottom, 
and bring with them a sediment that gives the water a tliick 
muddy appearance, which is at first unpleasant to stran- 
gers. It is of a purgative nature, though thought to be 
extremely wholesome, and is called the best for sea of any 
in the world. 

The Missisippi is styled the Nile of North America. 
It is said to take its rise in the White-bear lake, in 
latitude between 48 and ^9 degrees north, and, following 
its windings, it is, accdfding to Morse, up^vards of 3000 
miles in length, from its source to its discharge into the 
Gulf of Mexico. 

There are many streams that fall into the Missisippi, 
fcom the east and from the west. The largest from the 
west is the Missouri,* 200 miles from the mouth of the 
Ohio. The Red river enters in about 200 miles above 
New-Orleans, from the ^vcst. 

On the east, the principal streams are the Illinois and 
Ohio. The Illinois is received about 20 miles above th< 
Missouri, and 220 above the Ohio. 

* See LewU and Clarke's Travel? 



KER^S TRAVELS. 27 



CHAP. III. 



JVav- Madrid— Mar m of the author for his own safety, 
with the melancholy fate of one of his men — Plenty 
of game — Excessive rain — General observations on the 
country both sides of the Missisippi — Comparison be- 
tween the healthiness of the climate and that of Ohio — 
Author kills a large panther — Slow progress i?i^7rste?id~ 
ing the river — Description of the manner in which it is 
performed— Usefuhess of steam-boats in its naviga- 
tion Crazy state of the author's boat — Impositions 

practiced by boat-builders— Difficulty and danger of 
descending the river — Beauty of the scenery on the 
river — Description of the Osar/c tribe of Indians — 
Hospitality of a French gentleman — Arrival at Natch- 
es fFashington — Reasons why it is declining in popu- 
lation—Pleasing appearance of the sugar plantations- 
Singular appearance of the river. 

On the 20th of October we reached New-Madi'id, a 
small town on the west side of the river, sixty miles b«^ 
low the mouth of the Ohio, which contains twenty or thir- 
ty houses, much scattered. The inhabitants are chiefly 
French ; the houses small, though neatly furnished. We 
lay here tlirough the night of the 20th, when a dreadful 
accident happened. We came too about a quarter of a 
mile below the town. Two of my men being desirous 
to go on shore, I consented. They took the canoe and 
started at dusk. The length of tlieir stay made me un- 
easy. I knew not their dispositions, and being alone, 
ivas full of apprehension. I had reason to suspect they 



28 KER'S TRAVELS. 

were going to desert me. About three o'clock in the 
morning, I heard the cry of Help me, Save me. I hal- 
Jooed as loud as possible, still ^vas kept up this lamenta- 
ble cry. I sprang from the boat to the bank, and direct- 
ed my course the way from ^vhence I judged the sound 
to come. In leaping a ditch I fell and sprained my \vrist. 
I made all speed possible for a quarter of a mile along the 
shore, where I heard a voice that said, Come quick or I 
shall drown too. This greatly alarmed me. I ran up a 
little farther and found a canoe, and unthinkingly jump- 
ed in and shoved off, without a paddle, and was soon in 
the middle of the stream. However, making a virtue of 
necessity, I drew oft' one of my botats for a paddle, and 
made the best of my way towards the poor sufferer, who 
I found was one of my men, lying across the canoe in 
which they came to the shore, which was bottom side up. 

On my paddling towards him, he asked me if I had 
got Sims with me, and on my answering him in the 
negative, he said the canoe had upset, and Sims, being 
drunk, had fallen out. I was greatly shocked at this in- 
formation ; but having no time to lose, as I was by this 
time t\^'o miles below my boat, he with some difficulty 
got in with me, and we made the best of our way to the 
shore. 

On arriving we found several long pieces of bark, with 
which Ave made paddles, and in about two hours made to 
our boat, stopping at intervals, to hear, if possible, Srnis 
hallooing for us, but nothing broke the awful silence, except 
the screeching of owls. It was one of those nights which, 
to persons in our situation, is mournful and sickening ; 
the moon would transiently appear from behind dark 
clouds, Avhich almost veiled the heavens. 

The drift-wood kept us in constant hopes, for wt 





KER'S TRAVELS- 29 

faintly imagined that every stump or log was the unfor- 
tunate man ; but alas ! he was gone. Giving up all 
hopes of finding him, we returned to our boat with heavy 
hearts. I now began to question Adams, for that was 
the man's name who had accompanied him on shore. 
His tale was as follows. 

*' We started in order to go up to the barge. We 
passed four miles up, and finding it tedious rowing 
against the current, \vhen we got opposite the town I 
thought it best not to go further. He insisted on gohig, 
saying that he wished to see them once more, being 
some of his acquaintance, for he expected to be in h-11 be- 
fore 1ff]K)rning. I consented to go, and we again started and 
met his firiends coming down, having plenty of whiskey. 
We all went on shore, and having made a small fire, 
formed a circle, and began to pass round the mug. 
Sims drank uncommonly free ; he drank the devil's 
health, saying he would see him before he slept The 
liquor being nearly out, and it growing late, it was pro- 
posed by the company, before they broke up, to try who 
could tell the greatest lie. Sims' turn came last, who 
proposed telling the truth. Did you observe me, says he, 
dosing a little while ago ? To which they answered, yes. 
1 dreamed, says he, that our boat had sprung a leak, and 
was on the point of sinking, and as we were going to the 
assistance of the Captain, I fell into the Missisippi, and 
was drowned : I have been uneasy ever since, and, 
Adams, we will go down and see what is the matter, for 
I feel much depressed, although I am in liquor. When 
the company broke up, we started for our canoe, and the 
rest for the town, which was a mile below. I found 
Sims so much in liquor that it was with much difficulty 
\ got him in, making him lie flat in the boat. When 



so KER'S TRAVELS. 

we got, as I judged, ^vhhill a mile of you, Sims started 
up suddenly, saj ing he had dreamed again, and on rising 
up in the boat, he staggered over, and in his fall catched 
the side of the boat, and turned it over. I got hold 
of tlie boat, and called several times, but received no 
answer. Sims ^vQnt do^m, and on rising caught hold of 
my gi'eat coat, ^^ainly ti-jing to get upon the boat ; he 
several times pulled me under Avater. At length I ex- 
tricated myself from him, he immediately went down, 
and rose no more. I heard you hail me, and you soon 
came to my relief, or I should liave inevitably perished, 
as I cannot swim." 

Daylight soon appeared, and at sunrise we cleared 
out. In endeavouring to run the outside of a sa^vyer, I 
ran M'ith ni}- stern atliAvart it, and unshipped my steering- 
oar,* which I lost, but sustained no other material inju- 
ry. We soon found ourselves at a loss without a guide, 
and came on shore at a bend about four miles below the 
place where we set out. On coming , near the shore, 
judge ^vhat must have been our surprise on finding the 
body of Sims lodged against some drift. It w^s our in- 
tention to have made land above him ; but the current, 
which al^^'ay»nms impetuously round the bends of the 
.river, prevented, and we landed 500 yai'ds belo\\-. Our 
first care \vas to secure the boat in a proper manner : \vc 
then took the small boat which I took from the shore at 
the cr}^ of distress the preceding night, and made for the 
body of Sims. With some difficulty we got round the 
point of a small wooden island that projected some dis- 
tance from the shore. We found the unfortunate man 
lying on his back — a mournful spectacle. After fixing 

• A long heavy oar projecting twenty feet from the stern, for throwing th* 
bgat quickly round. 



■* 



KER'S TRAVELS. 31 

a rope round his body, we towed him to the shore. A 
short inquest was held among ourselves, which was con- 
sidered necessary : his death was supposed to be acci- 
dental. I now set one of my men at work in digging a 
grave, which he executed with a paddle in the course of 
an hour, while Adams and myself made a coffin, or box, 
of some loose plank we had in the boat. At 12 o'clock 
on the 21st of October, we buried the body of Isciac 
Sims, about five miles from New-Madrid, on the west 
shore of the Missisippi. Sims was one of my best 
hands, being an experienced boatman. He had a family, 
who lived three or four miles from Portsmouth, on the 
French Broad river. 

Having interred the body, the next thing was to look 
for a proper stick for a steering-oar. I took Adams with 
me, and after making our way through a thick cane 
brake, we entered a beautiful wood of large timber, lifting 
their heads to an immense height, and seeming to envy 
each other's glory. The sycamore tree is the monarch 
of the forest ; its size is incredible to all but those who 
have seen it. In this place I measured one which was 
thirty-five feet in circumference, making it about eleven 
feet six inches in diameter. We looked some time be- 
fore we could discover a stick to suit us, and at fength 
found an elm. After preparing it in a proper manner, I 
proposed to go a little further into these wilds. We pro- 
ceeded about half a mile, and came to the brink of a 
small lake or pond, which we found full of ducks, geese, 
and cranes. With my rifle, in about half an hour, I 
killed a fine goose and four ducks. We then returned to 
our boat, with our steering-oar and game : on our arrival, 
Calford (the other hand I had hired, whose name has not 
i )cfore been mentioned) had caught a large cat-fish, ^vhicli 



52 KER'S TRAVELS. 

weighed about forty pounds. We were now plentifully 
provided a\ ith fresh provisions, of which we stood in 
need. After shipping our oar, we again shoved oif. As 
the river was fiilling, we thought it best to improve our 
time ; and having lost our best man, it was judged re- 
quisite to use every precaution during the remainder of 
our ^^oyage. The sun not being more than an hour high, 
only gave us time to float fiir enough down to get a good 
harbour, which was in an eddy,. below a projecting point. 

The sudden absence of the sun alarmed me ; I turned 
round, and just had a glimpse of its fiery edge, sinking 
below an awfully formed cloud, which arose ^vith such 
astonishing swiftness that in ten minutes the whole hemis- 
phere was in its blackest robe. 

We secured our boat in such a manner that she could 
not drive on shore, and fixed both her bow and stern 
fast. We were no sooner safely moored than the tem- 
pest came on, sweeping every thing in its way. Its 
current was generally about a quarter of a mile wide, run- 
ning an easterly course, and bearing down all opposition. 
Providentially, we lay on the opposite side from whence 
it came, or we should have suffered materially ; for the 
next morning we could discover the opposite shore to be 
full of trees of enormous size, laying prostrate in the 
river, and opening a prospect for miles on both sides, 
exhibiting to view the resistless power and might of the 
Author of nature. The rain was heavy but not steady, 
stopping suddenly, and beginning with thick, heavy 
drops, roaring in the air, and seeming to be forced by the 
^vinds to an untimely birth. This tornado did not last 
more than twenty minutes, and was succeeded by a most 
beautiful and serene sky, and twilight appeared in its 
liveliest colours. Storms of this kind are very frequent 



KER'S TRAVELS. 33 

on the Missisippi, especially in the summer season, and 
often cause a considerable SAvell. 

Next morning I pursued my journey, but not without 
being well convinced of the gi'eat danger we had escaped, 
and what was in all probability but the beginning of 
perils. We now had fine weather, and enjoved the 
beauty of a fine landscape, and the music of birds, as we 
passed swiftly along. 

No river in the world is perhaps richer in its prospects 
than the celebrated Missisippi. It is bounded on all sides 
with good land, and stately timber. Nature seems to 
have spared no pains in laying the foundation of our 
country ; pointing the various streams to their respective 
discharge ; making them adequate in size -to bear do^vii 
the productions of their shores for exportation, and 
stretching their courses through variegated climes of the 
fattest soil* 

The shores of the Missisippi are supposed to be more 
healthy than those of the Ohio, as the fogs are neither so 
frequent nor heavy. Immediately on the Missisippi the 
ground is low, and in many places is overflowed in the 
months of May and June ; but proceeding a little back, 
the land becomes elevated, excepting when you get near 
New-Orleans ; there, as you proceed back, it becomes 
swampy. The upper and middle parts of the river 
abound with a variety of trees, among which are the syca- 
more, white and black ash, buck-eye, maple, myrtle, 
hickory, white and black oak, elm, gum, black walnut, 
chesnut, and dogwood, which grow to an immense size, 
in comparison with those in the northern states. On the 
lower parts of the river, or above Natchcs, the c}^press 
begins, and grows in plenty, extending quite to the GuH* 
Tlalts of immense size are taken to New- Orleans, for 

5 



34 KER'S TRAVELS. 

ship and wharf building, kc. The cypress grows very 
large, and on a foundation uncommon for other trees. 
For about three or four feet above the ground the body 
spreads amazingly, forming what are termed knees, 
which brace out on all sides, forming half sunk columns, 
and then drawing in suddenly, the tree forms a regular 
sized tower. Some of them are one hundred feet without 
a limb. 

Nothing worthy of note occurred during this day. At 
night we came too on a small island, a little before sun- 
set. I was much pleased with our delightful situation, 
and what made me more so, was the barking of our little 
dog the instant he entered the woods^ I took my gun 
and ascended the bank, and the first thing that met my 
eyes was a panther, which lay in the crotch of a large 
tree, sixty or seventy feet from- the ground. I stepped 
back a few yards behind a bunch of cane, where. 1 fired 
and wounded him in the neck : at that instant he leaped 
to the ground, and on recovering himself made off to a 
little swamp, where he cried lamentably. We now all 
assembled, and routed him out, when I got a shot and 
killed him. This ferocious animal measured eight feet 
ten inches from his nose to the end of hi& tail. After 
killing some small game, we returned to tlie boat. 

October 22d. Started early in the morning. At ten 
o'clock we met a barge ascending the river, of about 120 
tons burthen. Their progress was slow and tedious* 
The winds being very unsteady, and the river very crook-* 
ed, sails are but seldom set. 

It. may be interesting to many readers to have an idea 
of the manner of ascending against so perpetual a current 
as that of the Missisippi. Men are obliged to work against 
nature, and endure all the hardships the elements can in- 



KER'S TRAVELS. 3S 

flict ; and continual exertions are necessary to make the 
smallest progress ; these labours and exposures are 
enough to impair the soundest constitution, and far ex~ 
ceed the perils of tKe sea. 

It generally takes three, and sometimes four months, to 
ascend the river from New-Orleans to the falls of the 
Ohio. The boats for this purpose are generally long, 
from fifty to an hundred feet, with their bows made sharp, 
in order to cut the stream that bears so forcibly against 
them. They have one srnall bow and stern deck ; be- 
tween these is a deck raised about six feet, having on ei- 
ther side, from stem to stern, running boards, for the pur- 
pose of using poles. They have generally but one mast 
carrying a square sail ; though there are a few barges which 
are schooner rigged. 

A v€ssel starting from New- Orleans of. an hundred 
tons burthen, generally employs twenty or twenty-five 
hands, taking with them provisions enough to last them 
to the settlements on the Ohio. The hands employed 
^u-e generally hired by the trip, and are all w^ell provided 
with poles and oars. They employ commonly one or 
two men as sailors, for the purpose of being ready in a. 
favourable wind, as the Kentuckians are very awkward in 
the management of sails. Being thus prepared, they 
shove on with surprising alacrity. Their manner of row^ 
ing is very singular ; drawing their oars as far through 
the water as their situation, or the length of their arms 
will permit, and throwing them back with such agilitj^* 
that they are scarcely perceptible ; just admitting them to 
skim the surface, then sinking them deep in the water, 
and raising themselves, bend the stubborn ash, while the 
sweat streams down their cheeks. The exact time they 
Ir.eep in rowing, is pleasing to a stranger, and fron\ which 



36 KER'S TRAVELS. 

they derive no little credit. Thus using every exertion^ 
they make considerable headway, averaging ten or twelve 
miles a day. 

For upwards of an hundred miles above New- Orleans, 
the river is banked up, to prevent the inundation of the 
land under cultivation. This is a great object to the 
bargemen in using their cordde, which they extend from 
the mast-head to the shore, and the men shoulder it and 
tow up their craft \yith cheerfulness. After getting above 
their cordaling ground, in swift water they make use of 
their warp ; at otlier times they use their setting-poles 
where the sounding will admit, running across on every 
point. 

With a strong head wind, it is impossible to move up 
diis current. There have been instances of sailing forty 
or fifty miles ^vith one wind, notwithstanding the great 
bends in the river. The wind generally blows up or 
doAvn the river, when there is any stirring. 

But by Fulton's invention of forcing by the power of 
steam, vessels of any burthen can ascend. There arc 
now several steam-boats on the Missisippi and Ohio, 
which greatly add to the interesting commerce of the 
western and southern states. There is one which runs 
from New- Orleans to the moudi of the river, for the pur- 
pose of towing up vessels. This meets with great en- 
couragement ; and shortens the passage of vessels, which 
would otherwise be very tedious. It often requires as 
much time for vessels from the northern states to reach 
New- Orleans, as it does to reach rjiy port in Europe. 

We had now pleasant weather for several days, the 
wind from the north, blowing generally down the river. 

On the 28th we had heavy winds from the southeast, 
with great rains, such as I had never before witnessed. 



KER*S TRAVELS. 37 

"I'hese lasted for several days, an intermission of the rain 
only, favoured us. The winds prevented us from pro- 
ceeding on our passage ; though several attempts were 
made, we were immediately blown on shore again. 

I here found my boat was very crazy and weak, leak- 
ing in many places, I would caution the inexperienced 
who may venture down so long and wild a river as the 
Missisippi, to be aware of whom they purchase boats, to 
look ^vell through every part, and to spare no pains^ in 
having the opinion of judges. One will scarcely imagine 
how much depends on this. The frequent impositions 
and neglect of boat-builders, often endanger the property, 
and even the lives of those on board. 

A credible gentleman informed me of several instances 
of this kind, particularly one where he was himself a 
sufferer. He purchased a boat at Nashville, Ten. of 
about seventy tons, and after having it insured, loaded her 
with flour and horses for New- Orleans. The second day 
after his entering the Missisippi, he was wrecked in the 
following manner : While they were proceeding cheer- 
fully on their voyage, not suspecting but they would 
reach their destined port in safety, from the fineness of 
the weather, and the strong sawyer- proof craft under them ; 
but not observing a small breaker ahead of them, ran on 
it, and found themselves thrown round and stopped in- 
stantly, and had just time to gQt the small boat along side, 
and save the lives of those on board, with a few valuable 
articles, before she filled. Having got her loose, they 
endeavoured to get her as near shore as possible before 
she went down ; forcing out the horses, and clearing 
away the flour, they discovered the leak, ^^'hich they in 
a measure stopped. They got as much of the damaged 
flour 0^1 shore as possible, leaving the boat aground till 



S^ KER'S TRAVELS. 

the water might fall so that they could repair her. On 
•examination they found that one third of her bottom was 
of rotten wood, and not fit for use. They returned to 
Nashville, where he immediately commenced a suit 
against the builder. After the defendant's swearing that 
the craft was sound, the above-mentioned gentleman pro- 
duced a piece of the rotten plank, broke by the sawyer on 
which they struck, which could be crumbled to pieces 
by the hand : by tliis he w^as compensated, after the exam- 
ination of the insurance company. 

At present all boats are insi:>ected previous to their be- 
ing launched - 

Nov. 2. The winds abated, and we proceeded this 
morning. We were in good water, but in the afterpart 
of the day w^e found the river to be uncomonly crooked. 
After constant exertions, we made but twelve miles that 
day. We were carried by the current, in every bend, 
with a force that would leave us in tlie eddy, or counter- 
current. These eddies we found more common as we 
descended the river ; in one of them we were labouring 
for near three hours, before we were relieved ; we found 
it impracticable to clear it by rowing, for it ran up with 
as much force as the current did down before our entering 
it, w^hich ^vas at the lower end. On endeavouring to 
gain the descending current, I would row^ as much head- 
way as possible ; but on the bow's striking the counter^ 
acting current, the boat was instantly whirled round. 
Finding this all in vain, I got out my warp, which I ex- 
tended from the boat to a neighbouring sawyer ; by tliis 
means we prevented much labour in that part of the 
river, from the contrariety of currents. 

After this we were carried into several small eddies ; 
by some we would be carried constantly round like a top, 



EER'S TRAVELS. 39 

both sides having equal power, neither would gi\e us the 
least advantage. After getting a little acquainted with 
their nature, I would uniformly row as near to every 
point as possible, and although the current was not as. 
strong, yet it prevents being drawn into the bend. This 
practice is generally kept up by the most experienced 
Avatermen, excepting those who are too negligent to 
exert themselves, and who thence conclude the Mis- 
sisippi to be a laborious and unprofitable voyage. 

These coimter- currents are of great importance to 
bargemen in ascending the river. Some of them are 
three miles in length ; but on arriving at their head the 
descending current runs with amazing force. In going 
round some of these points, the greatest care is required in 
steering, to keep the boat's bows to the current. I have 
often seen boats whirl round by the keel's getting the 
smallest hold of the current, in spite of all the oars. At 
other times, when a skilful helmsman has the charge, after 
gaining as much headway as possible in the eddy, striking 
the opposing stream, their headway begins to deaden : 
they double their strokes ; but all in vain ; an equilibri- 
um ensues for a mornent ; till at length, the heavy and 
steady pressure of nature prevails, and the boat falls back ; 
the spirits of the rowers flag, and they are carried impetu- 
ously down till they make the shore again. 

Nov. 3. I this day passed a beautiful tract of wilder- 
ness, affording a plentiful subsistence to the animal crea- 
tion, and inviting, by enchanting prospects and luxuri- 
ant growths, the free sons of Columbia to inhabit and 
share with them the bountiful gifts of nature. I imagin- 
ed myself holding a discourse with these stately timbers^ 
and would answer that it only wanted time to make this 
a country of \\ ealth and happiness : that though at pre 



40 KER'S TRAVELS. 

sent the attractions of the settled parts were more en- 
ticing, your hills and vallies, believe me, will one day- 
be the resort of men of genius and enterprise, who will 
add to your future glory. 

On the 4th we killed some venison and other game. 
On the 10th we Were visited by a few of the Osark tribe 
of Indians, who came to us in canoes, bringing with them 
a few turkies, percimmons, and deer-skins. I purchased 
some of those articles, and gave them in exchange, pow- 
der and lead, and some corn-meal. They say that their 
tribe is small, and that they remain neutral between the 
United States and other powers. They are of large 
stature, and their limbs well proportioned. They appear 
to be slovenly and filthy, and for Indians they are of an 
uncommonly dark complexion. They are called by the 
name of a river they inhabit, on the west side of the Mis- 
sisippi. 

On the 20th, 21st, and 22d, we passed several Indian 
camps, and would often be favoured with a visit. There 
are a part of the Chickasaw and Choctaw tribes who fre- 
quent this river for the purpose of fishing, plundering, &c. 
Those Indians belonging to, or living within the United 
States, I shall hereafter give a particular. description of. 

On the 28th we arrived nt the Walnut hills, a beauti- 
ful and delightful tract of country, riiese hills are in- 
habited, and under good cultivation, affording a delight- 
ful prospect from the river. Whilst I was gazing at the 
beauty of the scene, and viewing Phoebus just stretching 
liis course from the broken horizon, and the shepherd 
loosing his fold, hearing the sound of the huntsman's 
horn, and the jogging echo of the oars, and lost in con- 
templation, we were carried into an eddy which soon waft- 
ed us to the shore. At this I was not chagrined, but 



KER'S TRAVELS. 41 

made my boat fast, in order to view the beauties of nature 
on shore. 

After walking about half a mile, over a green-tufted 
soil of beautiful vales and hills, I arrived at a large 
and commodious house, where I got a fresh repast, and 
information of the country. The house belonged to a 
French gentleman, lately removed from France ; he was 
a man of taste, who had been through the western and 
southern states, and had found no place so congenial to 
his mind as that which he now occupied. I believe he 
has much intriguing confederacy with the anglos. Cot- 
ton here produces well ; also corn, tobacco, hemp, 
fruits, &c. &c. After spending a few hours I returned to 
my boat ; with some difficulty we cleared the eddy, and 
hauled out into the current. 

On the 2d of December we arrived at Natches, a very 
conspicuous town on the east bank, containing at present 
between three and four hundred houses, well built, and 
many of them of brick. It stands on an eminence of 
about 200 feet from the level of the river. A small part 
of the town is under the hill, immediately on the river ; 
it is well known to be the resort of dissipation. Here is 
the bold-faced strumpet, full of blasphemies, who loolcs 
upon the virtuous part of her sex with contempt and 
hatred ; every house is a grocer}^ containing gambling, 
music and dancing, fornicators, &c. This is the stop- 
ping place for all boatmen from Kentucky, Tennessee, 
&c. ; yes, 1 have in that place seen 150 boats, loaded 
with produce, bound to New- Orleans, delaying their 
time, and spending days in the lowest orders of dissipa 
tion. Those who live on the hill are possessed of mc«'e 
pride and decorum. There are many good stores in 
tliis place, who find considerable business ; also nle- 

6 



42 KER'S TRAVELS. ^^ ' 

chanics of every description. The town is generally 
made up of emigrants from the eastern states. The iis- 
cent from the river is made easy by means of a dug- way, 
half a mile in length, up which is carried all the water 
made use of ui the town for washing ; many use it for 
drinking, in preference to the well-water, w^hich is ex- 
tremely hard and unpleasant, especially to strangers. 

Although this place is surrounded by an excellent and 
Well-cultivated country, yet it wholly depends on pro- 
duce from up the river, which can be had much cheaper, 
and for this reason the farmers do not raise corn, w^heat, 
&c. The common product is cotton and tobacco ; the 
latter is just beginning to be cultivated. 

There is a market in this place, Avhich is celebrated for 
fish, particularly the cat-fish, which they take out of the 
Missisippi in abundance, and of incredible size, weighing 
from IQ to 200 pounds. Their beef is poor, as also flesh 
of other kinds* 

Six miles back from this is Washington, a small town 
with a court-house and goal, and is the seat of govern- 
ment for the Missisippi territory, it will probably be re- 
tnoved to Natches. Washington is in a state of decline, 
owing to its distance from the river. St. Stephens 
^vill probably be the seal of government in a short tmie, 
which place and country I shall treat upon Ik reafter. 

Dec. 5. I again started in the afternoon. This night 
I floated down -with the current. The river from 
Natches to New-Orleans, is delightfully smooth, and un- 
broken by sawyers ; but finding by this 1 should lose 
sight of a beautiful country, and ^vishing to satisfy my 
mind with every particular, I determined to lie by the en- 
suing nights. The night of the 5th was uncommonly 
pleasant, aided by the smooth waters ; the silence broken 



TRAVELS. 43 



■^^^S^^tel 



only by the solemn cry of owls, a;id the piercing howl 
of beasts of prey. 

Dec, 6. I he- country begins to get low, and swampy, 
abounding with cypress trees, which hang full of moss, 
called Spanish moss. This moss, or tree-grass, is com- 
mon in the southern states, particularly on the Missisippi ; 
it hangs on the body, and every projecting limb, four or 
five feet, loosely entwined, and cloaks the wilderness v/ith 
still greater gloom, hanging in weeping forms of mournful 
gray. On this moss the Spanish horses subsist the year 
round. The inhabitants use it for matrasses, &:c. ; there 
is also much of it exported for the purpose of stuffing 
saddles, chairs, Sec. after it is cured in a proper manner. 
It is found only on low ground, and near water- courses. 
It has a taste not unpleasant, and is full of juice. I^arge 
quantities of it are taken to the northern states. 

Dec. 8. We arrived at Baaton Rouge, a smalltown on 
the east side of the river, containing about one hundred 
hoirses. The inhabitants are principally French. There 
iire here a considerable number of stores, chiefly groceries. 
The town stands on an elevated spot, or sandy bluff*. The 
productions of the countr}^ around are cotton, indigo, &c. 
We shoved off* after staying here one hour. We now 
began to come to the plantations. How beautiful these 
appeared, after pursuing our way through a rugged wil- 
derness, I can describe to none but those who liave ex.- 
perienced it. With their help I can stammer over the 
outlines of the pleasure it created within me. Slirink- 
ing from the blast of winter, I was gradually arriving 
in a warm latitude, and passing plantations of excessive 
luxuriance. 

On the 9th and 10th we were floating all points of the 
compass, having entered the extensive bends called 



44 KER'S TRAVELS. 

Rockasee and Tunikee ; the latter is supposed to be 
fifty miles around and but five across. With a capital of 
fifty or sixty thousand dollars, there might be many te- 
dious miles saved in the navigation of this river. By 
cutting small courses across these necks, there would be 
no difficulty in uniting or straightening this mighty stream 
in many places ; some of which are not more than half a 
mile, and are made up of loose earth. In many places it 
would save ten, in others twenty, and in one or two in- 
stances fifty miles. All these added, would be in course 
of time an object, particularly in ascending the river. It 
has been contemplated by some characters of enterprise, 
but fell through for want of funds. But as the country 
grows older, and its advantages are discovered, improve- 
ments will assist the workmanship of nature in instances 
of the above-mentioned kind. This country has far ex- 
ceeded the most mature nations of Europe, in improve- 
ments and inventions which have surpassed in their prac- 
tical results all the theories of the old world. 

The rich sugar and cotton plantations now began to 
wear a most elegant aspect, with commodious buildings, 
and out-houses for the numerous servants, who appeai'ed 
in droves, going to and fro upon the plantations. The 
manner in which these poor Africans are treated by their 
overseers, is frequently cruel in the extreme ; but I shall 
here forbear making any remarks on this subject. This 
southwestern extremity of the United States has been 
nursed by European powers, and seems not to have been 
brought to perfection, nor a state of subordination and 
rectitude, until it fell into the hands of the mild and judi- 
cious goven:iment of the United States, whose power and 
spirit have shown it the defender of all just rights and 
claims within their happy union. ^ I speak as a free citi- 



KER'S TRAVELS. 45 

zen, having for several years shared good and evil, luxu- 
ry and want. 

The weather was now warm and pleasant, and it being 
the coldest month in the year, the sun's beams were very 
grateful. 

The Missisippi, differing from other rivers, seems to 
be elevated above the general level of the land, which is 
truly the case, especially as you proceed near its mouth ; 
the land on each side sinks, commencing at its margin and 
ending in a swamp or lake. While other rivers are de- 
pressed or compressed within the limits of huge clusters 
of mountains, and exhibit shores lined with rocks, this is 
adorned with tlie smile of luxury. 

Nature seems to have been aware of the free race of 
people that should inhabit this continent of Columbus, 
(not of Americus,) and although there were suited to ev- 
ry class or race of people, zones, torrid, temperate, and 
frigid ; yet she thought her temperate zone not adequate 
to contain the happy beings that might arise either from 
an impulse of emigration, or from the natural source of 
increase : she therefore set her convulsive powers in ope- 
ration, and assuaged the surging billows from the face of 
what is now the fattest soil on the terraqueous globe. Ex- 
posing it in time to the action of the beams of the sun, it 
became the finest and most productive region of the 
world ; while the rivers only remain as traces of that 
ocean which once inundated this portion of the globe. 

The plantations on this coast do not many of them ex- 
tend more than a mile and a half from the coast, till they 
are stopped reluctantly in their progress by inaccessible 
swamps and morasses, and stagnated waters, which render 
it in the summer and fall seasons somewhat unhealthy. 



46 KER'S TRAVELS. 



CHAP. IV. 



Arrival at New-Orleans — Difficulty of landing — Descrip- 
tion of New- Orleans — Badness of the water — Romantic 
appearance of the Church — Rapidimprovement of New- 
Orleans — Causes why it is sickly — JSxcellcfJce of the 
market — Intentions of the author to ship for Jamaica. 

On the 13th Dec. 1808, I arrived at New-Orleans, after 
encountering many difficulties, on a strange river, and 
frequent insults from my men. In landing here I found 
more difficulty than in any part of my journey, as the 
city lies on a bend of the river which forms an eddy. I 
here made several attempts to land, but on striking the 
eddy it would take me near a mile up the river, before I 
could again make the current. I at length, by a fortu- 
nate turn of the eddy, drove in with exulting pleasure, 
and leaped on shore : I secured my boat, and for a mo- 
ment was fixed to the spot, meditating on the fatigues I 
had encountered. I here sold my little cargo to unex- 
pected advantage, and after discharging my men, felt as 
It were, released from a world of care and anxiety. I» 
took lodgings with a Dr. De Fludcar, a French gentle- 
man of great merit, as I afterwards found him to be. 

I shall here give a short description of New- Orleans, as 
in its present state. It lies in lat. 29° 49' north, and 90° 
5' west Ion. on the east side of the Missisippi, and 100 
miles from its mouth. The streets are regularly laid out, 
and cross each other at right-angles ; they are very low 
and narrow. The buildings afford no cellars, but the 
lower floor being raised at a sufficient height, leaves a 



KEKS TRAVELS. 47 

kind of cellar on the surface of the ground ; all places 
below the surface would be filled with water constantly. 
For the purpose of receiving fresh air, the houses are 
built as high as the tornadoes common to that country- 
will permit. They are generally built on a French 
construction, affording elevated terraces and walks, which 
open to the gentle breeze in the heat of summer. 

The level of this city is several feet below the surface 
of the river in its periodical floods, and is saved from in- 
undation only by a-bank levey on its margin; hence all 
the water collected in the city runs off from the river, and 
oozes at length in a swamp and lake, in the rear of the 
town. The waters and slops, after being used, are thrown 
into the gutters, or leaders, which are made of he^vn 
timber, one for the bottom, and one on each side ; here 
it slowly moves off", creating a very nauseous smell during 
the dry seasons, and is relieved only by the rains, which 
cleanse them from the odious filth they had collected. 

All the water made use of in the city, is carried from 
the river in casks, there not being a well in the place, of 
which any use is made. A person would naturally sup- 
pose aqueducts would be stretched through the streets ; 
but this requires yankeeism, which disbands all claims of 
European despotism. 

The water of this celebrated river is the best of itself 
of any in the United States, being cool through the sul- 
try months of summer, andean, without being attended 
with the least harm, be drank in the freest perspiration. 
But filth and negligence will cause the purest waters to 
become foul : thus it is at Neiv-Orleans, tliere being an 
eddy, or counter-current, in which all the shipping is 
moored, and in which every thing loathsome is thrown, 



48 KER'S TRAVELS. 

and there constantly kept in circulation, must conse- 
quently imbibe a quantity of putrefaction. 

Out of the above-mentioned eddy, all the water made 
use of is taken ; but when they find that the scourging 
hand of disease is beginning its career, and dismal mala- 
dies are making rapid progress from house to house, like 
New- York, they will cleanse their city, and sweep off the 
brooding pestilence, drinking pure water in preference to 
foul. 

This city contains an elegant church for the Roman 
Catholics, and a monastery for the exercise of the nuns. 
There are no other public buildings for worship. In 
front of the church is an elegant square, of level, green 
turf, from which the church has a very romantic appear- 
ance. There are many other public buildings, as well as 
private, which exhibit a pattern of the beauty and ele- 
gance of French taste, and which the architect views with 
astonishment. 

New- Orleans, of late years, has been thriving astonish- 
ingly. Emigi'ants from all parts of the United States, 
are constantly roving the western and southern country, 
and naturally descend to New- Orleans ; and although 
those from the northern states are not subject to the cli- 
mate, yet under the impression of profiting, they many 
of them continue till they get attacked, and never return. 
Others, of loose habits, and inclined to dissipation, meet 
with great encouragement till they are deprived of the 
means of subsistence, and then are left to the mercy of 
the scorching sun ; this, with the use of ardent liquors to 
drown their sorrows, soon sweeps thenj off the stage of 
action. From instances of this kind, the country re- 
ceives the name of sure death, as being the most un- 
healthy ; but if temperance, the source of health, is 



KER'S TRAVELS. 49 

there made use of, the .system is under no gi^eatcr afflic- 
tion than it would be elsewhere, as New- Orleans can 
produce instances of longevity surpassing most other parts 
of the United States. 

The nightly air in this vicinity is very injurious, 
and often proves fatal, in the hottest seasons of the 
year, although it would be reasonable to suppose the 
sun would so warm the atmosphere and the animal cre- 
ation, that his absence would have no eflect in so short 
a time : but when his last rays disappear, nature seems 
to change her element ; a cold damp arises, and a 
thick vapour every where prevails. This is succeeded 
by chilling dews, which lay in heavy drops, as if act- 
ing in opposition to the sun's influence. But these 
vapours are soon scattered when the earth is again, 
exposed to the sultry beams of that refulgent sun, whose 
power and attraction keep in subjection all those oi^bs 
within his care, visiting them in time with his enliven- 
ing presence. 

Upon the whole, I conclude that the ^vealth of New - 
Orleans will, in no distant time, equal that of any other 
American city, and that Louisiana will ultimately be the 
garden spot of the western continent. 

The exports of Louisiana are sugar, cotton, rice, to- 
bacco, indigo, oranges, &c. The sugar is universally 
allowed to be the best of the kind manuflictured in the ' 
kno^vn world. 

During my stay in New-Orleans I had frequent oppor- 
tunities for learning, the situation of the countr}- west of the 
Missisippi'-, and I here found that my early attainment of 
the French and Spanish languages w^ould hereafter render 
me great service, particularly in my intended route, o*! 
which I then expected soon to set out : but I had scenes 

7 



50 KER'S TRA.VELS. 

of a different cast yet to go through, perhaps to harden 
and temper me for new perils. 

The market of New- Orleans is equal to any of its size 
in the United States. In this market can be had the 
products of all climes, and as cheap as at New- York. 
The beef is not so good as in the northern and middle 
states ; fish, both fresh and dried, and vegetables of every 
kind, are plenty ; also nuts, mellons, and fruits. The 
watermellon can be had at any time of the year. This 
city is wholly dependent on the upper states, namely, 
Ohio, Kentucky, and Tennessee, for their produce, which 
is corn-meal, flour, beef, pork, butter, potatoes, apples, 
cider, whiskey, Sec. &.c. They receive in return some 
few foreign articles, but most generally and naturally pre- 
fer cash, abstaining from imported luxuries, being con- 
tented Avith their own homely fare, excepting coffee, of 
which they are remarkably fond. In their dress they 
prefer the rugged leggins and hunting-sliirt, of a ground 
colour, trimmed with yellow. With this suit and their 
rifle, they feel always perfectly at home. 

I remained in New- Orleans until the month of April, 
which was totally averse to my former plan. Commer- 
cial interest enticed me to ship for Jamaica. Dr. De 
Fludcar, the gentleman Avith Avhom I boarded, entered 
with me upon a little adventure, Avhich it was thought 
would prove advantageous to us both. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 51 



CHAP. V. 



Arrival at Jamaica — Departure of Dr. De Fludcar — 
Determination of the author to visit Fort an Prince — 
Departure from Jamaica — Arrival at Port au Prince-^ 
Project of a tour in the interior of the island — Author 
sets out^ accompanied by a gentleman — Beauty and 
grandeur of the scenery — Difficulty and danger of tra- 
velling — Singular cave discovered — Description of it — 
Return of the author — Violent illness — Recovery — 
Takes passage for Savannah — Shipwreck^ and immi- 
nent danger of the author^ life — Description of Cum- 
berland harbour — Melancholy death of Captain Crase- 
well — Return to ICingston — General description of Ja- 
maica — Productions of the island — Description of Port 
Royal trade — The author again returns to the United 
States — Arrival at New-Orleans — Preparations for 
ascejidmg the Red river. 

On the 10th of May, 1809, we set sail on board the 
Dolphin. Qn the 20th we arrived at Kingston, the capi- 
tal of the island of Jamaica. We soon despatched our 
sales, and De Fludcar returned to New- Orleans. Interest 
further led me to indulge every flattering hope. I took a 
tour into the interior of the island, which I found to con- 
sist of huge clusters of rocks, the veins of which are filled 
with pure water gushing forth and forming numerous 
small rivers, which together conspire to cool the scorched 
plains between the rugged cliffs. In this place the 
practical romancer may have full liberty of enjoying soli- 
tude, and ample employment for his profession. Jamaica, 



KER'S TRAVELS. 



is ill latitude 17" north, and about the longitude of the 



eity of Washington . 



On the 4th of June I took a passage on boaixl the Nep- 
tune schooner for Port au Prince, at which place I ar- 
rived on the 11th. It litis in latitude 18° north, and about 
the meridian of Philadelphia. The island of St. Domin- 
go lies between Cuba and Porto Rico. The face of the 
country in most parts is beautifully adorned with hills and 
vallies, and covered Avith handsome groves of large tim- 
ber, and a variety of rivers running in every direction, 
Avhich add beauty and elegance to the variegated land- 
scape. 

During my stay in this port I frequently heard from 
my parents in London, which relieved my anxiety ; and 
by sending letters I informed them of my circumstances. 
I met one day, by accident, with an acquaintance, and 
proposed to him to take a view of the interior, and if his 
mind corresponded with that of a naturalist, we would 
not fail of exploring any internal cavity, or subterraneous, 
passage that ^ve might discover. He readily yielded to 
my proposal, but informed me of his acquaintance on the 
island, and that it was necessary to visit them, before our 
departure. He sat out for that purpose, and I waited his 
return with patience. On the 19th he returned, and on 
the 20th we started, and with no other view than that of 
prying into natural curiosities, of which I was informed 
the island abounded. On the 25th we arrived at a ridge 
of rocks, and broken hiljy ground, where we had many 
extensive prospects of a w ild forest, which held us in the 
lowest contempt, regardless of our ramble over her clus- 
tered summits, the sides of which shone with beautiful 
cascades, \a inding in irregulai' courses down to their bot- 
tom, and floAving through meadov/s of richness cind 



KER^S TRAVELS. 53 

beauty. These little streams were received by larger, 
which after winding their courses and augmenting their 
size, are mingled in the salt waves of the Atlantic. 

We had now reached one of these rivers, and finding 
it not fordable, and not wishing to damage our provisions, 
we altered our course from southeast to northeast, follow- 
ing its margin for a considerable distance. We crossed 
many lofty precipices, on one of which we discovered 
distinct signs of silver, very near the surface of the earth. 
We took an observation of the place, and proceeded- 

On the night of the 27th we encamped on the side of a 
precipice, down which ran a murmuring stream. Con- 
cealing ourselves between two shelves of the rock, we 
felt secure from wild beasts, and only dreaded the clan- 
destine visits of innumerable reptiles. After placing our- 
selves in such a manner that we could not fall out of our 
den, we were soon lulled to sleep by the neighbouring 
cascade, which drowned all other solitary murmurs, and 
the lamentations of this re-echoing forest, whose chorus 
consisted of the night bird's song, the gentle breeze, and 
sudden blast, winding through the battlements of the 
clustered mass. In the mornir/g wc awoke much re- 
freshed, and continued our tour to the summit, where we 
had a most beautiful prospect of the country. On oiir 
left we had the small but pure waters of the river, veiled 
by a scattering fog ; on our right, at a distance, one above 
another, we had elevated ridges, and each in turn was 
watered by falling streams, whose reflection of the sun's 
rays spangled the scene before us. We perceived the 
ground we had the day previous ascended, falling in even 
waves, smoothed by the tops of trees of mahogany, pine, 
wild gum, &c. and at length ending in a fertile valley, 
which spread at the feet of surrounding mountains. 



54 KEHS TKAVELH, 

By turning round we beheld our situation truly peculiiir, 
for before we could further proceed, we were forced to 
ascend a narrow peak, and descend on the other side, 
for on either side our passage was obstructed by perpen- 
dicular cliffs, but from the peak the descent was more 
gradual. The scene invited our stay till the sun began 
to direct his rays on our heads, which hurried us down 
a rough passage of loose stones, where we were often 
stopped by the hissing of adders ; but being in high 
boots we were not daunted. Of these we killed several ; 
and about 3 o'clock, we found the monster among 
snakes, having two distinct heads ; it was about twenty 
inches in length. Its heads were perfectly alike, having 
in the neck of each a joint by which it could move its 
heads either way, uniting them together, and then throw- 
ing them in a right angle, from thence each way to its 
sides, holding the one and moving the other at pleasure. 
At the sight of this monster we were much perplexed, as we 
could not solve in our minds, nor bring any thing of a 
species born natural, to be in any shape compared with 
it. On irritating it, both tongues were launched, its 
body swelled, both lieads flattened, and four eyes spark- 
led with rage ; each tongue in vibrating would drop 
\enom ; its body, formed in an awkward coil, would 
change its colour to a reddish brown, with innumerable- 
spots of a bright yellow, full of feverish venom. Its mo- 
tion ^vas slo\v and reluctant, stopping at our approach, 
and moving off" at our remaining still. On putting a 
stick near its heads, both upper jaws would be thro^vn up, 
the skin on each side would be contracted, ^vhich uncov- 
ered its fatal fang. Getting a forked stick, we confined 
him to the ground, and then contrived to bleed him to 
death, in order to preserve nature's work, and recom 



KER'S TRAVELS. B5 

pense our labour ; tliis we did without much bruising 
him. We then took ofFhis skin as cai'efully as possible, 
which on my return to the port I boxed up, and sent a 
present to the museum in London. It excited wonder in 
iill who saw it. 

The water we carried with us had now given out ; 
accordingly we bent our course tow^ards the river, and 
after cutting ourselves by falling and stumbling over 
broken cliffs, we came in sight of it about sunset. The 
bank was very steep, and it ^vas with difficulty that we 
procured any w^ater. After satisfying our thirst, we took 
a little of our provision, which were getting very stale as 
w^ell as scarce. 

The beauties of die evening were ushered in with the 
piercing cry of birds of prey, and the plunging crash of 
amphibious reptiles, which only allowed us a short time 
for conversation in the intervals of their noise. We were 
not pleased with our situation in this, it being neai' the 
margin of a river, and on looking round we could not dis- 
cover a proper situation without going a few hundred 
yards down the shore, where we saw some project- 
ing rocks covered with white moss. We found the 
spot truly romantic. By a gradual ascent on the west 
side, we were enabled to get near the summit, where 
we found each step sounded with a dreadful din. This 
.aw^akened our curiosity ^ for by every appearance we 
judged it to be subterraneous, and faintly hoped our con 
jectures might not be erroneous. At this instant the. 
moon broke forth in reflecting light through the tliick 
forest in our front^ on the opposite side of the river. Wc 
now approached the brink of this rock, and seating our- 
selves on. its edge, waited for a full prospect of the rising 
moon, which in a few minutes reared its disk abo^•e. the 



56 KER'S TRAVELS. 

green horizon of the innumerable malioganys, \vhich 
abound on this island. 

In viewing the wild scene around us we were filled 
with silent ten'or. In a kind of revery my companion 
carelessly shoved off a loose fi*agment of rock, which 
tumbled down and terminated in or near some concave 
part of the rock below^ while the reverberation between 
rolled in every direction. It was now determined to ex- 
plore any part that might be accessible ; the moonlight 
assisted our external search, and after half an hour's la- 
bour in seeking for an entrance, we were about to give 
over any further pursuit. I sat down in a small fissure, 
leaving my companion still impressed with an idea that 
the entrance \Ya.s in. some part practicable. While I was 
dius sitting in a reclined posture, reposing myself from 
the fatigue I had endured tlie day past, I was disturbed 
by loud, hollow, and indistinct accents, accompanied 
with the indirect echo of Ker, Ker : I instantly stepped 
from my seat to a little elevation, and calling my compan- 
ion by name, (Watson,) was answered in re-echoing 
shouts of joy. I hastened to the spot, ^^•here I found 
Watson standing in the gloomy front of a spacious grotto, 
situated in the east northeasterly corner of this cluster, 
and within a few yards of the rn er. Every step, every 
touch, and every word, bore testimony, by their dying 
sound, embosomed in the ^vinding cavities, that we were 
on the borders of a subterraneous adventure. Watson 
informed me that he had been a fe^v yards into its mouth, 
that it was a little descending, and the circulation of air 
was heard in every direction. I proposed to him to defer 
the attempt of entering till morning : he insisted on im- 
mediately making preparations. Accordingly, vy^e gatli- 
ered some pitch-pine, and fastening scAcral- pieces t^geth- 



KER'S TRAVELS. 57 

er, made two torches ; then procuring fire, we lit one of 
them, and having our small arms and all things in readi- 
ness, we entered. Watson took the lead. The chill air 
oozing from the damp cells, created within me a silent 
horror. Having proceeded about fifteen yards, we came 
to a rugged descent, and after a few steps over a ridge 
of loose earth and stones, we found ourselves buried in a 
spacious cavern of about ten feet in height, and nothing 
but thick darkness on all sides. Our torches burnt witli 
lustre, and reflected with transparent beauty on the falling 
drops> which proceeded from every part, forming innu- 
merable little rivulets, which murmured in their courses, 
and hastening to be absorbed in oblivion, or sink to lower 
beds, there to remain in various forms of petrifaction. 
We proceeded in this way for some time without meet- 
ing with any obstruction, when at length our progress 
was stopped by a perpendicular wall. The petrifaction 
here shone in many lively colours, and at a distance ap- 
peared to possess animal life. Here natural forms of a 
body and shape resembling human were to be seen ; the 
imitation of animals and fowls, and one in' particular of a 
serpent in a spiral coil, with its head raised, on which 
thick drops would slowly fall, and there consolidate and 
increase in size. The texture of these are seemingly as 
hard as that of a rock. Those which from Ions: standine, 
and the course of the fountains being changed, remain, 
waiting the slow and sure hand of time to temper and fit 
them for duration. Some we found to be of an elastic 
substance, with the cause of which I ^vas at that time 
unacquainted. 

After pardy satisfying our curiosity, we proceeded 
along this glittering wall to the left, and in going about 
ten yards discovered a circular corner ; near this we per- 



58 KER'S TRAVELS. 

ceived a low, nan'ow, arched passage. We now stopped 
to consult each other with respect to the termination 
of this remarkable cave. I still proposed to return to 
the mouth, if possible, as we were much fatigued with 
the excursion of the day ; to which he with reluc- 
tance consented. His torch being nearly consumed, I 
lit mine, which cheered the too visible gloom that sur- 
rounded us. 

The length of time we had been in the cavern, and the 
continual droppings of water, "together with the damp air, 
rendered us very uncomfortable, and we forcibly feit our 
need of repose. We turned about and pursued the same 
course we came, and on arriving at the mouth congratu- 
lated each other on our safe return. The moon shone 
with unusual brilliancy, and the air seemed to be filled 
with perfume. Such was the contrast of our momentary 
situations. We erected a small fire and dried our 
dampened clothes, took a little brandy we had yet re- 
tained ; then looked a convenient place, secure as possi- 
ble, and lay down with the promise of further exploring 
the grotto when daylight appeai'ed. Fatigue and satis- 
faction soon lulled us to sleep, insensible of surrounding 
dangers. 

We arose in the morning refi^eshed ; the sun was not 
yet risen. The numerous alligators bellowed out their 
thanks for the return of day, and were slowly floatiiig and 
swimming in every direction, in quest of food. Geese, 
cranes, and pelicans were flying in abundance. We 
made a fine breakfast on a large crane we happened to kill 
as he was flying close over our heads. The sun had 
risen, and we again made preparations to explore further 
our remarkable grotto ; and after procuring a sufficiency 
of torch- wood, and taking our brandy witii us^ we entered 



KER'S TRAVELS. 59 

again, resolved to explore it to its end. We proceeded 
faster than before ; came to the large ridge of loose stone 
and presently came up with the before-mentioned wall. 
We continued along to the little arched door, the passage 
was just large enough to admit a man on his hands and 
knees. I being the smallest, entered first, and in going 
eight or ten feet found it began to widen, but grew no 
higher ; I creeped along, and found a sudden descent of 
about three feet, down which I got and found myself 
standing on sand. Watson, in crawling after me, by some 
means extinguished his torch, which, by his holding it in 
tlie passage, had enabled me before to see my way : but 
now the blackest gloom surroimded us — gloom too ter- 
rific for expression. Luckily, I had brought the fire- 
works with me, and lighting a match, we lit both our 
torches, Watson having got with me on this sand bottom. 
We proceeded, w^alking upright. The dropping of wa- 
ter had ceased, and the sand under our feet appeared dry. 
At this instant my eyes met a spark of lustre just before 
me. I applied my torch to it, and to our joy found 
symptoms of gold with the sand. We soon found our 
conjectures were true ; for going a few steps further we 
came to a small running stream, clear as crystal, in the 
bottom of \vhich we saw thin specks of virgin gold. We 
now looked in every fissure of the surrounding rocks, if 
possible to descry some vein ; but there was none to be 
found. We followed this stream to its discharge, under 
the projecting point of a rock : jtill strong marks of gold 
were visible. We gathered a small quantity in the bot- 
tom of this stream, and were about to return, when wc 
proposed to take a little brandy and continue our search. 
We had now been in half an hour, and our light-wood 
was half c^onsumed. We took hasty steps from side to 



60 KER'S TMl^A^flLS: 

side, and at length came to an £\scei;it of ten or twelve feet, 
up which we crawled ; then having to stoop on our hands 
and knees, we still ascended tlirough a craggy broken 
passage of rocks, some loosely hanging and turning as we 
moved over them. In this way we continued some time, 
Watson being before, when I called to him to return be- 
fore our lights were entirely consumed, and we should be 
left to perish in tliis dark abode. He seemed to pay no 
attention to what I said, and still pushed on, observing 
that the air was not so damp as he proceeded. In a short 
time Watson informed me he saw light from heaven, and 
we soon found ourselves in a situation in which we could 
see the beauties of the morning sky : but the ascent had 
now become perpendicular, forming a kind of chimney of 
a triangular form, about nine feet high, and so wide as 
not to. admit of bracing out. Watson placed himself 
against the side of the rock, and by getting on his head I 
Avas enabled to leap out. I then procured a long stick 
sufficiently strong to bear his weight, by the help of which 
he got safely out. I had unperceived cut myself in seve- 
ral places about my knees and legs, by the rugged pas- 
sage through which we came. With heartfelt satisfaction 
we sat down by the mouth of the cave \va had ascended, 
and recounted each particular of our past fears and joys, 
and drew up satisfactory conclusions with regard to the 
existence of gold in the bowels of this spacious cavern ; 
gold which, when tried, w^e found to be of the purest 
kind. We here made a minute of every particular re- 
specting what we had seen. 

These caverns lie in latitude 18** 23' north ; they are 
bounded east by a river which runs a southerly course, 
the given name of which I have not heard, being neither 




KER?S TRAVELS. 61 

krge nor noticed ; on all other sides it is bounded by a 
^vild forest, and projecting peaks of stony cliffs. 

29th. We started on our return to the port, calculat- 
ing our course, and determining to take a near direction. 
Worn out with fatigue, and the heat of the weather, we 
made slo^v progress. The course we took shortened our 
way considerably, yet we Had to cross high mountains', 
and branches of rivers which constantly intercepted our 
passage, and the many curiosities would detain us, as well 
as the heavy rains, which seemed to be let down in one en- 
tire sheet, sweedy cooling the air and scattering the sul- 
try vapours, and rendering it pleasant and wholesome. 

On the 3d of July we arrived at the town, where I was 
taken sick with the intermittent fever, brought on by con- 
stant exposure to the scorching sun. By good care and 
attendance I soon recovered my health and strength. 
During the time of my sickness, Watson had shipped to 
some place, as I supposed, with the news of his adven- 
ture ; and I have since learned that he returned with a 
company and further explored this grotto, where they 
found gold in abundance. 

On my passage from St. Jago, in the island of His- 
paniola, to the Havanna, I experienced one of those ter- 
rible hurricanes which are so frequent in these latitudes. 
It was after a serene, fine day, in which the beams of an 
almost vertical sun had just been ameliorated by a gentle 
sea-breeze, that the sl^y became suddenly overcast ; dis- 
tant thunder, and the flashes of lightning which gleamed 
in the west, announced an approaching storm. Our Cap- 
tain, a man who had a considerable share of nautical 
skill, endeavoured by his care and attention, to put our 
little bark in such preparation as to meet it with success. 
W,f were in imminent danger from a rocky. coast which 



* 



62 KEll'S TRAVELS. 

extended from west to east, and on which it was almost 
impossible for us to avoid being dashed. The storm 
soon increased to such a rate that we were under the ne- 
cessity of striking all sail, and driving at the mercy of 
the waves. In this situation we waited with calm resig- 
nation for the moment when we should be precipitated on 
a barren and inhospitable shore, and the tremendous 
dashing of the breakers to leeward soon convinced us that 
we had every thing to dread. The Captain, in this ex- 
tremity, advised us to continue on deck, and taking ad- 
vantage of some favourable opportunity to gain the shore. 
In a few minutes our vessel struck upon the beach, and 
the waves dashed almost continually over us. The coast 
was so rocky that it was well known she would soon go 
in pieces. Our boat was immediately launched, and 
twelve men went into it; but before she had proceeded 
twenty yards fi'om our vessel, she was upset, and every 
one on board perished in the surf. The vessel was rapid- 
ly going to pieces, and death seemed to be staring us 
in the face ; the Captain advised me to tie myself to a 
plank, and trust to the mercy of the waves ; I for some 
time refused, but there was no time to be lost, as our 
vessel was already broken in two, and could not long re- 
main. I accordingly tied myself to a plank, and com- 
mitted myself to the water ; in a few minutes my head 
struck against a rock, and I became senseless. How long 
I rem\iined so I cannot say ; but on returning sensation I 
found myself still fast to the board, and drifted a consid- 
erable way on the beach. I looked around, but could 
not perceive a single living being near me. About a mile 
from the beach was to be seen the wreck of our vessel, 
and boxes, bales, &:c. in one promiscuous heap. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 63 

in looking about me, I soon judged that I was in Cum- 
berland harbour, and that the nearest port was St. Jago. 
To return to that place would be attended with great dif- 
ficulty ; the coast was dreary and inhospitable, and I had 
upwards of fourteen leagues to go in order to reach any 
inhabitants, and through a country thickly infested with 
wild beasts peculiar to those warm countries. To my 
great joy and satisfaction I soon was joined by the Cap- 
tain and four others who had escaped the wreck, and we 
immediately set about collecting such materials as would 
be of service to us in our journey through the wilderness. 
In searching over the beach we soon found plenty of 
powder and shot ; our provisions were most of them 
washed on shore, and although much damaged, were 
nevertheless acceptable. In the morning we started, 
being in all six persons, carrying with us such articles as- 
would be useful in our dreary journey. We were now 
going across a country which exhibits some of the finest 
and most romantic scenery in the world ; stupendous 
mountains, intersected with luxuriant vallies ; towering 
rocks, whose tops are inaccessible to the foot of man, 
present themselves on every side. 

The coast on which we struck is about a mile in 
length, extending in an irregular oval form,** being inter- 
sected with high, craggy cliffs, whose points ejitend for a 
mile into the sea, and form a very dangerous shore for 
vessels ; the whole appearance of the harbour is the most 
dreary and inhospitable of any in the world ; and when 
viewed in one of those tremendous storms which are com- 
mon here, by the flashes of lightnings is altogether 
horrible. 

At the same time was wrecked on the coast about a 
niile from us, the brig Dolphin, Captain Crasewell, fron> 



64 KER'S TRAVELS. 

St. Jago, bound to Philadelphia. She sailed seven days 
before us, but owing to contrary winds and heavy fogs, 
which sometimes pervade this coast and render it impos- 
sible for vessels to proceed, she had been detained, and 
had advanced but forty miles in the last four days. When 
tlie gale came on, Captain Crasewell, who was an experi- 
enced navigator of these seas, endeavoured by every pos- 
sible means to get his vessel off from a lee shore, but it 
was impossible, owing to the cun-ent, which set with vio- 
lence toAvards the shore, and a strong wind blowing in 
the same direction. After fruitless endeavours on the 
part of the crew to keep her off shore, she at last struck 
on a reef of rocks about a mile from the mouth of the 
harbour, and almost immediately went to pieces. 

There were on board this vessel two passengers, a 
French lady and gentleman, who were on their passage to 
the United States for the purpose of settling. The sea 
broke in a most tremendous manner over every part of 
the vessel, and it was impossible to keep the deck. The 
seamen endeavoured to save themselves, some by swim- 
ming, and others by getting into the tops and other parts 
X)f the rigging ; but all those who were tempted to swim 
on shore, were dashed by the violence of the waves against 
the reef of rocks, and perished before they could reach 
the land. Captain Crasewell was twice washed over- 
board, and each time had the good fortune to regain the 
vessel. The lady and gentleman were less fortunate : 
they had been lashed on the quarter-deck, and were wait- 
ing a favourable opportunity to get on shore, when by 
some accident the lashing became loose, and before it 
could be secured, a violent swell broke over the ship and 
swept them to some distance from the vessel. They 
screamed, and intreated the mercy of some one to. relie\'e 



KER'S TRAVELS. 65 

them from their dreadful situation : but in vain ; it was 
impossible for human aid to reach them, and they were 
consigned to a watery grave. The masts now went by 
the board, and the unhappy \^Tetches who were suspend- 
ed in their tops were dashed with violence against the 
rocks and perished. Captain Crasewell, who had hither- 
to continued to direct and assist his crew, now found him- 
self with only one black man, Avho by lashing himself to 
the caboose had been enabled to keep on board. The 
negro assured him that this was the safest part of the ves- 
sel, and that could he once reach it he would be enabled 
to sustain life until the storm Was over. Captain Crase- 
well attempted to join the black, but in so doing lost his 
life, just as he had quitted that part of the vessel in which 
he stood. A wave exceeding in violence any thing which 
had been before, swept over the ship, washed him over- 
board, and rendered it impossible for him to regain the 
vessel : his head was dashed with violence against a rock, 
and he floated lifeless to the beach. 

The consignees, upon hearing of the melancholy event, 
ordered persons to proceed to the place where the vessel 
struck, to collect the dead bodies, and inter them. A 
reward of forty dollars was offered for the body of Captain 
Crasewell; which was soon found, brought round to 
St. Jago, and interred with all due respect. This gen- 
tleman left a family in Philadelphia to mourn his loss, and 
was considered by all who knew him as an honest and 
w^orthy man : he had been in the West-Indik trade for a 
number of years, and was well acquainted with the dan^ 
gers of the coast ; but such is the violence of these storms 
that it is found impossible for the most experienced navi- 
gators to combat them with success. The bl^ick man 





^ 



66 KER'S TRAVELS. 

succeeded in getting on shore alive, and was the only per 
son who escaped this scene of death. 

When we arrived in St Jago, I immediately waited on 
the American consul who furnished me with such assist- 
ance as enabled me to get over a considerable of the 
cargo, and such other articles as were valuable ; but they 
were comparatively very trifling, and were but a small 
portion of that wealth which we had when we left that 
place a week before ; we had then a full cargo of goods, 
valued at 17,000 dollars, two-thirds of which was belong- 
ing to myself, and now the whole amount of my wealth 
did not exceed 500 dollars. This sudden reduction of 
my fortune occasioned a depression of spirits which it was 
impossible for me to overcome, and for which it ^vas 
necessary that I should find some remedy, and recruit my 
diminished finances. But thus it is ; human happiness is 
ever unstable ; we are never certain of one hour's peace 
or security, and in the morning we may be possessed of 
affluence, and in the evening be sunk in poverty. I still, 
however, was calm and resigned to my fate ; I looked 
with composure upon the scene around me, and had this 
cheering consolation, that although I w^as bereft of pro- 
perty, I was still breathing the pure air of nature, and 
looked up with gratitude to the Author of all good, for 
my preservation from many dangers and perils ; to his 
vuiseen arm I was indebted for sustaining me while float- 
ing on the liquid expanse, and dashing against the rocks ; 
and I felt no less gratitude for my safety and protection 
through a trackless and almost biirren wilderness. In 
fact, a traveller who traverses any extent of territory, has 
abundant cause to be thankful for that protection which 
enables him to visit the barren waste, the wooded forest. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 67 

and the haunts of the uncivilized savage, in safety ; and 
to repose in his tent, fearless of the spear or tomahawk. 

The harbour of St. Jago is strongly fortified by nature 
as well as art, and is w^ell calculated for affording refresh- 
ment to vessels. The fort is well built, and its lofty bat- 
tlements, rising from the level of the sea, aiford a roman- 
tic and picturesque prospect. The country is agreeably 
diversified with hills and vallies, and being always cov- 
ered with verdure has a lively and gay appearance. To 
this fort I frequently strayed in the morning, w^ien the 
gray twilight ^vas gently retiring before those streaks 
of gold, which are the forerunners of the glorious re- 
gent of day. The rising of the sun in this country 
is uncommonly elegant, and w^ould require the pencil 
of a Raphael, or the descriptive powders of a Burke, to do 
justice to it : first appears a few light clouds, which 
quickly disappear and are succeeded by others still more 
red, until the bright king of the morning appears above the 
horizon. Notliing can be more grand or majestic than his 
appearance, just rising above trees and plants eternally 
covered with verdure ; the feathered songsters welcome 
his approach ; all nature seems revivified, and the busy 
hum of men, as they go backwards and forwards fi-om 
the shore to their vessels, together with the lowing of the 
cattle, and other occurrences w^hich are common on a" 
morning in this country, present a scene which is at once 
cheering and instructive. Mankind being by nature 
formed for employment, it is not only necessary but 
proper diat they should commence their labour early, that 
they may be enabled to rest in the evening — and this not 
only applies to olir business of a day, but to our journey 
through life ; we should endeavour by an early and fru- 
gal application of pur time and talents, to lay up such a ' 



... ^ 

68 KER'S TRAVELS. 

store as will enable us to pass the evening of our days in 
peace and prosperity, and not to have the bitter reflection 
that we have wasted our earliest years, without deriving 
that profit from thenn which ought to be expected from 
our exertions. 

That chain of mountains which runs through His- 
paniola, has many detached parts, which are remarkable 
for their grandeur and beauty ; they possess that bold and 
romantic appearance, which cannot fail to strike the be- 
holder with aw^e and admiration. The part over which I 
•more immediately went, has many beauties to recommend 
it* to the attention of the traveller who delights in the 
grand and sublime. The vale from which it rises is about 
a mile in extent : the rise is gradual for about 600 
yards, when it becomes more steep, craggy, and difiicult 
of ascent ; the view from the top amply repays you for 
all the toil and difiiculty you undergo in arriving at its 
summit ; you there view an extent of about seven miles 
in one of the finest countries in the world : the vallies 
and liills seem as though they were covered with a mag- 
nificent carpet, which is agreeably enriched with a thou- 
sand different colours ; the magnolia, the lemon, and the 
orange tree, in full bloom, yield a delicious fragrance, 
which scents the air and gives animation to the scene. 
The feathered songsters tune their little throats, and war- 
ble with a melody at once exquisite and ravishing ; in 
fact, there is no country in the world where the music of 
the feathered tribe is heard with such enchanting melody 
as in this. The stillness of the scene scarcely interrupted 
by the rustling of the trees, for as yet civilized man, as 
Jie is called, has not set his foot in a region which may ; 
with truth be termed happy, is favourable to reflection , 
md here the mind, lulled to repose, cannot but indulge 



-^fuc^^^^rc 



KER'S TRAVELS. 69 

in retrospective contemplation of the scenes of horror and 
bloodshed, which once desolated this fair country of its 
aboriginal inhabitants. Born originally free and indepen- 
dent, they disdained to cringe at the feet of tyrants, and 
knew not slavery but by the name. Accustomed to elect 
their own chief, and dispose of their own territory, they 
could not behold without indignation, a set of foreigners 
driving them from their lands, and appropriating its riches 
to their use. The cruelties exercised by a Cortez, and a 
Pizarro, have desolated one of the finest countries in the 
world of more than seven millions of inhabitants. Ac- 
cording to the estimate made by . the Abbe Clavegero, 
there was destroyed upwards of one million in a year ! 
And this too, by a nation professing the religion of Jesus, 
and who undertook the subjugation of the country for the 
sole purpose of obtaining converts to a religion which is 
all love, and is bottomed on the broad basis of infinite 
mercy, and of which humanity and gentleness are con- 
sidered among the most radia/it characteristics. 

I soon met with a favourable opportunity, and returned 
to Kingston in the island of Jamaica. My late excursion 
had in a great degree reduced my finances, and had 
taiight me to expect disappointment and trouble wherever 
I went. On my arrival at St. Jago I endeavoured to ar- 
range my finances for a speedy return to the United States. 
My affairs were soon in such order as enabled me to look 
around and make such observations as would probably 
be of service. 

St. Jago de la Vega is at present the capital of die 
island of Jampca, and was settled very early. It con- 
tains about 600 houses, and 8,000 inhabitants. The offi- 
cers of government have their public offices in this town, 
\ad the Governor has a superb palace, in which he reside^;. 



70 KER'S TRAVELS. 

It stands in Middlesex county, and is at the southeast end 
of the island. The situation is healthy, and the soil fer- 
tile and calculated to yield all that is necessary for the sup- 
port of life. ' It is in latitude 18° 24' north. 
. Having had occasion to mention the island of Ja- 
maica, I think it will not be improper for me to give a 
general description of it, as it is considered one of the 
finest of the West-India islands, and has been famous for 
its sugar plantations. This island is the largest of the 
Antilles, lying in latitude between 17 and 19° north, and 
between 77 and 79° west longitude. It is about one hun- 
dred and twenty miles in length, and seventy in breadth, 
and forms nearly an oval. This island was discovered by 
Christopher Columbus on his second voyage to America, 
who ^\^as much charmed with it, and prefen*ed it to any 
other. It was very soon settled by the Spaniards, and 
continued in their possession until it was subdued by the 
English under the command of Admirals Penn and Vena- 
ble. The staple commodity at that time was cocoa ; but 
the planters introduced the culture of the sugar-cane, 
which has now become the staple of the country. 

To a traveller who arrives after a tedious passage across 
the Atlantic, this island has a most beautiful appearance, 

bv reason of its constant verdure. The coast is low, but 

w 

rises agreeably into hills, separated by vallies. The hills 
are far from being unpleasant, as they are crowned to their 
very summit with towering trees. The streams of water 
are numerous and pleasant, altliough none of them are 
navigable. They give a richness and variety to the scene, 
and are higlily delightful in a country immediately be- 
tween the tropics. Thunder is very frequent, and rain 
storms sometimes last a fortnight. HuiTicanes are also 
jcommon, and sometimes do great damage among tlv 



KER'S TRAVELS. 71 

plantations of sugar-cane. There are instances of their 
being so violent as to unroof houses, tear up large trees 
by the roots, and even to remove substances of more than 
two tons weight to the distance of a quarter of a mile. 

The island is divided into three counties containing 
twenty parishes, over each of which presides a magistrate 
styled a Custos ; but those parishes in point of size are a 
sort of hundreds. The whole contains thirty-six to^vns 
and villages, twenty churches, and about twenty-three 
thousand white inhabitants. 

This island abounds in maize, pulse, vegetables of all 
kinds, meadows of fine grass, beautiful flowers, and as 
great a variety of oranges, lemons, citrons, and other rich 
fruits, as any island in the West-Indies. There are also 
useful animals of all sorts, horses, asses, mules, black 
cattle of a large size, and sheep, the flesh of which is well 
tasted, though their wool is hairy and bad. Goats and 
hogs are also plenty, sea and river fish, wild and tame 
fowls. The articles exported are sugar, cocoa, indigo, 
pimento, cotton, ginger, and coffee ; trees for timber and 
other uses, such as mahogany, manchineel, whitewood, 
which no worm will destroy, cedar, olive, and many 
more. Besides these they have fustic, redwood, and ^^a- 
rious other materials for dyeing. To these may be added 
a multitude of valuable drugs, such as guaiacum china, 
sarsaparilla, cassia, tamarinds, and the prickly pear or 
opuntia, which produces the cochineal ; with no incon^ 
siderab?^ quantity of odoriferous gums. Near the coast 
they have salt ponds, and might make any quantity of salt 
they please. 

As the island abounds in. a number of rich articles, it 
has also a number of safe ports, which enable the diflx^r- 
ent commodities of the country to be shipped with safctv 



72 KER^S TRAVELS, 

and to advantage. Point Morant, the eastern e^tremitr 
of the island, has a fair and commodious bay. Port Roy- 
al, to the south, stands on a neck of land which forms one 
side of it. There stood once the fairest town on this 
island ; and the harbour is as fine a one as c^ be wished, 
capable of holding fifteen hundred large vessels, and is 
still the station of the English squadron. Old Harbour 
and Macary Bay are both of them commodious ports, 
and there are at least twelve more between this and the 
western extremity, which is Point Negrille, where ships 
of war lie when there is a war with Spain. 

The town of Port Royal stood on a point of land run- 
ning into the sea, barren and incapable of producing any 
thmg ; yet tlie excellence of the port, the convenience of 
having ships of eight hundred tons burthen coming close 
up to their wharves, and other advantages, gradually at- 
tracted inhabitants in such a manner, that though many of 
their habitations were built on piles, there were near two 
thousand houses in the town, which were let at high rents. 
The earthquake which happened in 1692 entirely over- 
threw the town, and destroyed a great number of its in- 
habitants. This earthquake was followed by an epidemic, 
of which great numbers died ; some authors say three 
thousand. Yet the place was rebuilt, and again reduced, 
by fire, in 1703, and then the inhabitants removed to 
Kingston. Hurricanes since that time have been very 
frequent, and have occasioned terrible devastation ; one 
in particular, in 1800, almost overwhelmed the little town 
of Savannah la Mar. At present there is but a small 
number of houses, which are chiefly owhig to the im- 
portance and convenience of its harbour. A large por- 
tion of the West-India fleet ride a . great part of the year 
in this port. 




KER'S TBAVELS. 73 

f> 

The trade of Jamaica is very considerable, and is car- 
ried on directly with Great Britain, Ireland, the United 
States, and Africa. The articles usually exported have 
been enumerated, and have generally been advantageous 
to the planters. By the Inspector General's report made 
to the British government for 1800, the amount of ex- 
ports to the United States alone, amounted to 151,071/. 
sterling, whilst the imports from the same country only 
amounted to 125,000/. leaving a balance of 26,071/. in 
favour of the planters. 

The principal article exported to the United States is 
sugar, which, as has been fouiid by recent experiments, 
can be made as well in New- Orleans as in any part of the 
A Vest- Indies. By affording due encouragement to the 
New- Orleans planters, we should soon be enabled to rival ^ 
the West-Indies, and preserve the balance of trade in our 
own hands. 

I found it necessary for me again to return to the United 
States ; and I thought, as I intended to ascend the Red 
river and penetrate by that route into the interior of Mex- 
ico, I should be nearer my destined port, and likewise en- 
abled to make such arrangements as would be necessary, 
by sailing again for New- Orleans. I accordingly em- 
barked on board the ship Golden Hunter, Captain Swan, 
and after a pleasant passage of eighteen days arrived in 
the city. I immediately waited on my old friend. Dr. 
De Fludcai', and found him in good health and spirits, 
and overjoyed at my return. He informed me that he ar- 
rived safe, but had been very sick immediately after his 
return. He had heard of our shipwreck, and was in ap- 
prehensions lest I should have sustained a more serious 
^'^iccidcnt than the loss of my property. I imparted to 

10 









■ m \ .- 

74 KER'S TRAVELS. 

him my design of visiting the south of Mexico by the 
Red river, and he cheerfully set about procuring me such 
information as was in his power. 



CHAP. VI. 

The author lecwes New-Orleans — Arrives at Natches — 
The immher of stagnant pools highly injurious — Hires 
a negro — Constructs a canoe — Departure from Natches 
— Satisfaction of his negro — Relates his story, and 
promises fidelity — Arrives at the Natchitoches — Beau- 
tiful appearance of the land — Excessive fall of the dews 
— Arrives among the Cadoe Indians — Description of 
them — Vast herds of buffalo and deer — Alarmed by the 
arrival of Indians — Description of streams- which fall 
into the Red river — irrives at the cavern called Bal- 
desod — Description of it — Singular inscription on the 

* inside, 

I LEFT New- Orleans on the 1st Sept. for Natches, taking 
the nearest route, which was to cross lake Ponchartrain, 
from Avhich a bayau makes up within one mile arid a half 
of the rear of the city of Nev/- Orleans. This lake com- 
municates with the gulf of Mexico, and by lake Maurepas 
and Ibberville river it communicates with the Missisippi ; 
it is fifty miles in length and thirty in breadth. The 
bayau is about eight miles, from its head to the lake, very 
narrow and crooked ; the motion of its water is very slow, 
meandering through a low, swampy marsh, inliabited only 
by alligators and reptiles. 



KER^S TRAVELS. 75 

In the summer season nothing could equal the nau- 
seous and disagreeable smells that proceed from these 
stagnated waters, which breed innumerable legions of 
musquetoes, filling the air with their music, and spciring 
jio pains in visiting strangers, and bestowing their atten- 
tions upon the whole animal creation. As the evening 
approaches, the air is di\rkened with clouds of them, 
arising from the marshes and lakes. The inhabitants, for 
the preservation of their blood and the safety of their 
lives, sleep under a netting stretched over their beds, 
suffering rather witli suffocation than to be devoured 
alive. 

On my arrival at Natches, I formed an acquaintance 
with a Spanish gentleman immediately from Mexico, 
who informed me of the unexampled luxuriance of 
that country ; of the disposition of the inhabitants in 
general, situation of the principal rivers which water- 
ed that extensive region ; likewise of the numerous 
streams flowing through it — many of these rivers 
were nameless. He also informed me of the numerous 
mines with which the country ^vas richly stored, some 
of which he described to be very extensive, which 
lay quite in the interior; of several nations of Indians who 
seemed jealous of their worth, and would prohibit any 
search, or the giving of any particular account respecting 
their- situation. 

I informed him of my intended route, in which he 
wished me great success, still questioning the propriety 
and prudence of my determination, which was to ascend 
the Red river to its source, and then to take such direc- 
tion as circumstances should appear to justify. I was 
careful to note down all his information, remarks, and 
opinions. 



76 KER'S TRAVELS. 

1 was now daily impatient, waiting for necessary prepa- 
rations and arrangements for a precarious and unknown 
journey, from which I was withheld in the first outset by 
some providential cause. I now had health and strength,* 
and was invigorated with fabulous ideas, thinking myself 
in the sure road to wealth and fame, forgetting all former 
sufferings, disappointments, and hardships. All was not 
sufficient to reconcile me to the idea of giving up my love 
of roving, and I set my own case, as it will appear, as an 
example for unwary youths who cultivate an early habit 
of wasting time in fanciful pursuits, destroying their con- 
stitutions, and flying from domestic enjoyments, in quest 
of that detested root of all evil, and the only object of our 
hearts. Such .will mine appear, after several years use- 
less toil, spent in the search of, alas ! nothing. 

I hired a negro, who being free soon, offered his ser- 
vices on reasonable terms. Having a boat of my own 
construction now completed, which was small, merely for 
the purpose of a temporary use. I spent several weeks 
in making preparations, and constructed a co^ er over the 
stern of my boat, that I could take down at pleasure. Be 
sides this I prepared myself v»^ith oil skins, and a provision 
chest : I also purchased a number of articles fancied by 
the Indians, as well as drawing instruments, and paint 
brushes and colours, having with my uncle in London 
acquired the art of miniature painting. I had a good 
brace of pistols, but not thinking them sufficient, I pur- 
chased a rifle and tomahawk. I likewise procured a 
prospective glass, compass, thermometer, &c. 

Thus equipped, with a stout, rugged negro, I left 
Natches on the 5th Oct. 1809, bound for new disco^c- 
ries. Natches lies in 31o north lat. Various ^^vere the 
opinions of the inhabitants with respect to my appe^irance 



KER'S TRAVELS. 77 

at my departure, and where I was destined ; but all their 
enquiries were in vain. My boat was light, and I soon 
lost sight of Natches. 

It was now my intention to descend the Missisippi to 
the mouth of Rouge or Red river, and pursue its waters 
to their source. I made Edom (my black fellow) ac- 
quainted with the intended tour, with which he seemed 
highly pleased, and desirous of gaining my good will, 
and of entitling himself to my confidence. No pains to 
please and encourage me was by any means wanting on 
his part. In short, I ever found Edom to be actuated by 
the principles of honesty and bravery. 

The weather being extremely warm, my awning of 
canvass was spread, which afforded a goodly shade, with- 
out which the heat would have been intolerable. On the 
6th the thermometer stood at 98° at ten o'clock in the 
morning. There was not the smallest breeze stirring, 
which is something uncommon, and what I considered 
as a forerunner of convulsive winds and rain, I never 
before felt heat so intolerable. The pitch ran in every di- 
rection On my little boat. It continued so till three 
o'clock, when the heavens w^ere clouded with dai'kness 
until it was relieved by heavy rain and hail, accompanied 
with such tremendous shocks of thunder that in a little 
time the stores of nature seemed exhausted, and a cooling 
breeze succeeded. This was the first trial I had of my. 
oil-cloths, which kept me perfectly dry, as well as my ap- 
paratus. 

My negro seemed to be delighted with having an op- 
portunity of displaying his enterprising disposition, and 
in the thickest of the storm would use every exertion ; 
and when the rain descended, not in drops or streams, 
but in entire sheets, he Avould with seeming pleasure cry 



78 KER'S TRAVELS. 

out, Ah, niassa, dis be notten what we see yet. After 
the storm had subsided I set him to bailing out the boat : 
I then informed him of the dangers to which we should 
in all probability be exposed from the elements, as well 
as fi'om the wilds of the country, and that the length of 
our tour ^vas uncertain. I likewise told him of the object 
of my pursuit, adding if he would be faithful to me he 
should reap a share of any profit which might accrue- 
from the undertaking. He consented to every proposal, 
and I now had an African born negi'o for my companion. 
He was six feet two inches high, and would weigh 260 
pounds. 

On the 7th, at night, we reached the mouth of Red 
river. We came too after entering, and encamped for 
the night, having made a small fire and smoke, in order to 
sleep more securely from musquetoes. After we had 
taken a little supper, I sat down meditating on my plans. 
My distracted brain filled me with such impatience that I 
tliought every moment an hour. The fatigue of the day 
had wearied us both ; but I observed Edom busied in 
some reflection, and with a very thoughtful air, A kind 
of melancholy ensued as he turned his eyes towards the 
dying colours of the west. I watched him for some 
time, and at length asked him if he wished he was at 
Natches. He firmly replied. No : but, says he, I was 
just thinking of my tired life, and the trouble I had seen. 
I then requested him to relate the account. He took his 
seat near me, and began as follows : 

" I was brought to this country about twenty years 
ago, by the Portuguese, who sold me to a very ugly man 
on the island of Jamaica. By that master I was shame- 
fully abused for two years, for being, as he called me, 
dumb ; I could not understand what he said, and could 



KER'S TRAVELS. 79 

hot for some time handle the tools belonging to the plan- 
tation ; I was whipped almost every day, and ^vas sink- 
ing under a pressure of trouble too great for me to bear, 
when a kind providence interceded, and I was for a 
short time at ease, by being confined on board a ship ; 
but I was sorely pinched with hunger, and knew not my 
destiny. Having been torn from a loving wife who I had 
lately married, and crammed with several of my compan- 
ions slaves in the hold of the ship, and there suffocating 
with heat, hunger, and anguish ; — but as I said before, I 
was again sold and went on board a ship ; I had done 
nothing, but run away from my master, and gone to w ork 
for another man ; this so enraged him that he tied me 
down to the ladder and gave me seventy lashes, which 
was near being my end. Finding I was not now able to 
work, he sold me. I was then taken to St. Domingo, 
and was made to work with a great chain to my feet, 
which galled me sorely. My new master was, if possible, 
-^vorse than the other. I one day was very sick, and was 
scarcely able to move, though I had much more to do, 
for I had my chain to carry, as well as to roll a wheel- 
barrow with stone, as we were building a fort. My sick- 
ness continued a few^ days, when I sunk down on the 
ground with acute pains in every part of my body, such 
as I had never experienced before. I had not lain in tliis 
posture long before my pains were increased by the tor- 
menting whip of the overseer, who said as he gave me 
sixty lashes, that he would teach me to be stubborn. My 
back was quite raw : I could not rise from the ground 
when I was told, but lay still ; at which he began- to kick 
me with violence in the face and sides, which soon de- 
prived me of my senses. How long I lay there I am not 
al)le to tell, but on my recovery I found myself in a dark 



80 KER'S TRAVELS. 

cellar ; I gave free vent to my anguish, and prayed to be 
out of existence. The next day there was brought three 
more ^vho Avere whipped, and* the blood running in 
streams from their backs. After the master had left du- 
cell, my poor companions informed me that they were to 
receive thirty more lashes in the morning, and for no 
other crime tlian that of having been asleep ; they also 
informed me of their hearing the master say I was to re- 
ceive fifty. This news did not shock me, hoping it 
might put me to an end ; I resolved, however, that I 
would not die alone. In the morning one of my com- 
panions was taken out and whipped. His cry awakened 
me from melancholy to anger. After whipping him 
they sent him to ^^'ork, and took out the two remaining 
prisoners, leaving me for tiie last. I was now resolved 
on death or victory. While they wxre executing this 
hon'id deed on my companions, I with some exertions 
got off my chain, and hunting about the cellar, I found 
a broken spade. I placed myself by the door, and heard 
x^urses threatened against me. When the overseer entered 
J had new strength, and made a blo\v with the edge of 
my spade, and soon brought him down ; I repeated my 
blows, and had the pleasure of seeing his brains. During 
this time he had cried for help, and now came down two 
or three others, one of w^hich I knocked down ; the 
others seized me, and bound me with iron bands. I was 
now in hopes of immediate death ; but I had other scenes 
to encounter. Thinking it would be losing too much 
money to kill me, they shipped me on board a vessel. 
The Captain seemed to use me with more mercy ; he 
helped to release me from my fetters. We had a good 
passage to New-Orleans, where I ^vas sold to a sugar 
planter. The cruelties here, exceeded all I had ever 



KER'S TRAVELS. 81 

l)efore experienced, and if I should explain every par- 
ticular, it would cause a hatred to all people of your 
colour, though I have since found amongst them the ex- 
ercise of the true principles of virtue and charity. I shall 
only say, that I could not endure it ; I therefore set out, 
I knew not whither, but made shift to travel by night till 
I got to Natches. A worthy gentleman there took com- 
passion on my distressed situation. Knowing from mv 
account I had ran away, he advertised me in the papers, 
and my master soon appeared. I could see determined 
fury in his countenance, I fell on my knees before my 
new master, begging him to relieve me from my impend- 
ing ruin, and to my great joy I found they were making 
a bargain ; I soon saw the demon depart, and was in a 
world of happiness. I served my good master with 
care. He kept me to the boating business for several 
years. He then called me to his house for his favourite 
servant. Soon after, he was taken ill, to my great mor- 
tification, and died. In his will he left me about five 
hundred dollars, and my freedom. This money was 
soon swindled from me, and I hired with a gentleman for 
one year, when I came across you, and I hope you will be 
a good master, and I will be a good negro. I don't fear 
any tiling if I can please my new master." 

It was now late, and I retired to sleep. Knowing by 
the run of his conversation the turn of his disposition, 1 
felt much pleased with him. I told him that whatever 
might have been the manner in which he was abused, it 
would be nothing in comparison to what he would suffer 
under me, if he used any deception towards me. 

Morning appeared, and we again set forth on our jour 
ney. This river has a gentle current : the water is of a 
reddish colour, from which it derived its name ; this 

11 



82 KER'S TRAVELS. 

colour is caused from a red clay on die banks. The 
mouth of die riYQr is in latitude 29° 50' north. There 
are a few settlements at the mouth, where they raise cot- 
ton and indigo. We had some ^v ind this day, to which 
we set our little sail, and ran about ten miles. My negro 
was well acquainted with the boating business, and he 
worked up the little boat with astonishing alacrity. The 
weather still continued warm, and we had frequent show- 
ers of rain, which watered the thirsty plains and afforded 
new life to the animal and vegetable creation. 

On the 15th my negro killed a deer,, which afforded us 
a fresh supply of provisions. We could discover that we 
should have game in plenty, \\'hich affordeel me great sat- 
isfaction. The dry season had now commenced. We 
made considerable progress, and on the 20th came to a 
most beautiful tract of country called the Natchitoches. 
This was the frontier on the Spanish settlements some 
years back, and is about 125 miles from die confluence 
of the Red river with the Missisippi. Here the land ap- 
pears swelling in gentle hillocks, affording a rich pasture 
to the innumerable herds of cattle and horses which ap- 
pear in every direction. There are some very extensive 
plantations in this settlement. Their general produce is 
corn, cotton, tobacco, indigo, &:c. The cattle may be 
had for six dollars. Swine run wild, and are in great 
abundance. They begin their cultivation the first of 
March. During the growth of the season diey have suf- 
ficient rains to keep a moisture in the lands ; but in Sep- 
tember and October, when they enter their second crop,- 
they ai'c often destroyed by drought. Although the dews 
arc very heavy and powerful, yet the sun's rays lick up 
this moisture before it descends to the roots, and only 
gi^'e it time to cool the withering stalk. The dews are 



y ^i 



KER'S TRAVELS. 88 

often known to fall in such a manner as to be seen run- 
ning in little streams on the ground, as if shewing charity 
to the thirsty soil, and giving beauty and verdure to the 
landscape. 

The inhabitants here are chiefly Spanish, but intermix- 
ed with French, and a few Americans. Diseases are not 
so prevalent here as on the Missisippi : the air is more 
salubrious and wholesome, and not so liable to contagious 
diseases. Their manner of living is very temperate, and 
the richness of the soil is congenial with their indolence, 
producing a plentiful supply of provisions without much 
labour in cultivation. 

After remaining in these settlements for a few days we 
again pursued our course up this river, which runs east 
and west in its general course. A few days brought us 
to a nation of Indians, called the Cadoes, who inhabit a 
fine tract of country lying on die north side of the Red 
river. A creek emptying into this river I pursued till I 
found it to be settled with wigwams and Indian huts. 
During my stay amongst them I was well treated. The 
Chief informed me that their forefathers sprang from a 
race of people towards the setting sun, and that they had 
by wars been reduced to about fifteen hundred. 

These Indians are of small stature in comparison with the 
other tribes east of the Missisippi : they live principally 
by fishing and hunting deer, which are in great abundance. 
They have had the Gospel amongst them, as well as a 
teacher of the English language ; but their labour was 
met with coolness. Many of them speak the Spanish 
language, by which means I received information re- 
specting the neighbouring tribes. 

I was treated with great politeness by the chief warrior, 
who was about sixty years of ag€ and of large stature. 



84 KER'S TRAVELS, 

He shewed .me his armour, which was \vorii by his 
great-grandfather, who never saw a white man. His 
grandfather, he informed me, had had many conflicts 
with the Spaniards, as well as his own father f but they 
had -now given up all idea of combating so powerful a na- 
tion as the whites. He believed the Great Spirit would 
yet restore them all their lands, and banish the aggressors. 

This little tribe are very filthy in their way of living, 
only washing themselves on particular days, as a kind of 
ordinance. They seem not to have that jealous disposi- 
tion with regard to their wives which other tribes have. 

They informed me of a number of tribes that lived to- 
wards the setting sun ; that some of them were very nu- 
merous, and disliked the white men. They also told me 
that precious metals and stones were found amongst them, 
but they were jealous of their rights and would not suflfer 
any search from sti'angers, and that they held correspon- 
dence with no one except some particular Spaniards, who 
by intrigue had pried into their secrecy, and by insinu- 
ating little presents had received from them much wealth. 

My boat and apparatus excited much wonder. Some 
few of these Indians raise com, w^hich they pound and 
boil. They informed me that they should in a few days 
have a grand hunting party, and invited me to stay ; but 
as I had now wasted much time, I concluded to proceed. 

These nations inhabit a fine tract of countr}', beautiful 
elevations, and delightful vallies glowing with wild 
verdure. Such a country ought to be fostered by an in- 
dustrious hand, and not left in waste by indolence and 
sloth. > 

Oct. 30. We were escorted out of this bayau into the 
river, by the chief warrior, in a canoe ro\ved Ijy four men. 
He wore his hair in three cues behind, encompassed b\ 



KER'S TRAVELS. 85 

.silver bands, and a ring in his nose of nine inches in cir- 
cumference, handed down from his great-grandfather. 
He had an open countenance which bespoke his bravery, 
and his deportment was complete. Though age had pro- 
cured him a few silver hairs, yet he did not appear to be 
over thirty-five years. Contagious diseases are never 
amongst them ; this is a plain evidence that diseases arise 
more from intemperance and high living, than from the 
natural effects of a climate. Although the savages art: 



not blessed with the luxuries of life, yet they enjoy health, 
\vhich ought to be prized above all other blessings in 
life. 

We again began to ascend the Red river. It is here 
about two or three hundred yards wide, and the water 
had become cleai'er, the banks more elevated, and we had 
a stronger current to contend with, for several days to 
gether. We now passed extensive priaiies, and in man} 
places the eye found no relief, until it would meet hmd at 
a distance. These plains aiford a rich pasture to the deer 
and buffalo, which may be seen in droves ; still they arc 
\ cry ^vild. 

On the 6th Nov. I kille^ some deer. Having a mind 
to take a little view of the country, I concluded to leave 
Edom with my boat ; accordingly I took my gun and 
some ammunition, and set out on one of the priaries, 
I travelled a considerable distance, without meeting any 
thing worthy of note. At length coming to a little spot 
of low ground, I discovered a beaten path to extend quite 
round it, and lead off in a certain direction ; I followed 
for three or four miles, where it forked ; I kept the main 
path. I soon found the weeds and grass were getting 
high ; still in hopes of discovering my game, I contin- 
ued 4:l)is way for some miles, fearing nothing but snakes, 



86 KER'S TRAVELS, 

ivhich would often dart across my path. The \^ ceds had 
now become as high as my head, when I found fresh 
signs of game, and undiscovered I crawled within twenty 
paces of several deer, feeding like sheep. I singled out 
one that was nearest, and took deliberate aim, when my 
gun snapped ; they instantly threw up their heads. I 
again cocked, and just as they were making off, I brought 
one down. It now seemed as if bedlam had broke loose. 
Herds of deer and buffalo were running in every direc- 
tion, leaping to the top of the weeds to discover from 
w^hence the alarm proceeded, and discovering the smoke 
of my gun, darted off with such swiftness that they were 
instantly out of sight. I approached the one I had shot, 
which lay in the agonies of death, and reared itself for an 
attack, but was too weak. I cut its throat, and took off 
its skin, and the best of the flesh that I could conveniently 
carry, and started for my boat. I reached it about sun- 
set. We then prepared a fire, and cooked our venison, 
w^hicli was very excellent. 

This night I was a little alarmed at a circumstance that 
occurred : Our fire was extinguished, and we lay very 
composedly ; but were awakened by a lo^v voice. I 
raised up my head cautiously, and found there were a few 
Indians in a canoe, coming close alongside of my boat. 
They did not discover us, as we lay on the shore. I 
demanded who was there, and was ansAvered in Spanish. 
I invited them on shore, and they soon complied m ith my 
request. They belonged to the tribe Ave had passed a few 
days before. After informing them that we had been in 
their nation, they treated us with respect. They told us 
tliey had been a few days journey up the river, to visit 
some of their friends amongst another ti'ibe — that they 
heard the report of my gun, being not more than half a 



-#^&^ C^^^^i^^zrf--X^c 



KER'S TRAVELS. 



t' 



mile from the river where they were — that the river took 
a great turn, running a south course for some distance. 
They agreed to remain with me till morning, and we 
made up a fire. I was much pleased with their company. 
One of them had an instrument of music of simple 
construction, in the form of a flute, excepting that he 
bio wed in the end ; it was about two feet long,^ and their 
tunes were very striking, and carried along with them 
such a natural air, accompanied by their voices, that my 
negro fell a dancing, which much diverted the Indians. 

These friendly Indians wished to trade for some of my 
ammunition, offering me a number of otter and beaver 
skins ; having no use for them on n^ tour, I refused to 
take any, but presented them with some powder and lead, 
for which I was ten thousand times thanked, and also in 
return received some roots of different kinds, to make use 
of In time of sickness, explaining their virtue ; one in 
particular for the bite of a snake, describing the leaf, that 
I might at any time be able to procure it. This I put in 
my medicine chest, as being of great worth. Next morn- 
ing we took leave of them, and proceeded. This day 
we passed several tributary streams, some of them of con- 
siderable size. We now had much bad weather i owins: 
to this, cur progress was Aow, . 

November 15. We found ourselves in a kind of bay, 
formed by the junction of three rivers, namely, the W^ill- 
put on the right, the Kindas on the left, and above these 
a creek ; all of these falling together into the Red river, 
formed a kind of bay nearly three quarters of a mile wide, 
A little above this, on the left shore, we saw a clearing, 
which attracted my attention. We came too, and after 
ascending a few hundred yards I came to a steep ascent : 
on the the summit I found it had the resemblance of ax* 



8^ KER'S TRAVELS, 

ancient fortress. Though there were a few scattering- 
trees of immense size, yet it bore marks of having been 
once inhabited. The form was an oblong square, with a 
kind of broken breastwork that would scarcely be noticed 
without particularly examining it. In the rear of this 
Av as a kind of hollow path covered over with shrubs, lead- 
ing to a beautiful spring, which I found to be artificially 
stoned. Every thing appeared ancient. I took a par- 
ticular observation of the place and proceeded. 

Continuing our course, oirthe 20th Nov. the clustered 
summits began to appear, and looked over us with aston- 
ishing magnificence. The river is here for miles com- 
pressed within narrower bounds than ordinary, and runs 
Avith greater rapidity. Being broken with rocks, the pas- 
sage is in many places rough and dangerous. About tlie 
middle of these towering precipices is the noted cavern 
called by the Spaniards Baldesod, which my curiosity in- 
duced me to visit. We came up with it on the 22d, 
about twelve o'clock. The river being 'then in a high 
stage of water, deterred me at first from entering, as the 
mouth was situated near the margin of the river. How- 
ever, the mouth being spacious, with all ease admitted us 
to row in for several yards, where tlje bows struck a rock 
and our passage was impeded. I stepped forward and 
found a few feet of perpendicular ascent perfectly dry, I 
nvas now determined to see the recesses of this cave ; ac- 
cordingly I backed out, and after takpg a little dinner, 
(during which time Edom procured some torch- wood,) I 
entered, but not witliout some caution. I stepped up 
from the boat on the ascent, and gave Edom his orders 
to stand there in readiness if I should be in want of him. 
Upon entering I found several inscriptions carved on the 
wall^it tlic entrance, some dated as far back as 1384, As- 



KER'S TRAVELS. 89 

tonishing as this may appear, they were perfectly plain, 
though partly covered over with a little moss. There 
Were also curious images ; one amongst the rest was that 
of an Indian and white man shaking hands together ; near 
which was the resemblance of a canoe in a sinking condi- 
tion, and a white man swdmming towards the shore : also 
the resemblance of a man's hand pointing into the gloomy 
recesses of the cavern. This last awakened my curiosi- 
ty. On proceeding a little flirther the passage became 
narrow and contracted, winding a little to the left. A few 
yards more brought me into a magnificent hall of at least 
forty feet in circumference, in the centre of which, horri- 
ble to my view, I saw a vast number of human bones. 
A kind of gloomy buz hummed along the passage. I 
stood fixed to the spot in amazement. (I own my timid- 
ity on such an occason.) Proceeding a little farther, my 
passage was stopped by the falling of water, which nearly 
extinguished my torch. I retreated from this awful spec- 
tacle, and could form but a faint idea of its meaning. 
I returned to the mouth with heartfelt satisfaction, and 
proceeded my way up the river, meditating on what I 
had discovered. 1st, I was astonished at the date, which 
could not have been done by an Indian. 2d, This date 
being placed immediately under the figure of the while 
man and Indian, both must have been done at the same 
time, and with the same instrument. 3d, The bones 
could not have remained for that length of time, but 
would have decayed into dust ; those I supposed to have 
been deposited there some time after the carving was exe- 
cuted. 



12 



96 KER'S TRAVELS. 



. CHAP. VII. 

The author arrives among the Uames Indians — Received 
tvith coldness — Quarrel betwee?i Edoni and the Indians 
r^Gains the conjidence of the chief- — l)e scrip tion of the 
Uames — Informed of a silver mijie — R'eluctance of the 
Indians to discover it — Sets out to discover the mine — 
Critical situation of the author — Branch of the. Red 
river — Author ascends it — Salt spring — Immense herds 
of buffalo — iuthor returns to the Red river — Sickness 
of his negro man — Impossibility of navigating the river 
without him — Arrives among the Ilisees Indians — Au- 
thor agrees to accompany them — Becomes alarmed for 
his safety — Apprehensions removed — Meets a Spaniard 
— Some account of the llisees — Copper mine — Indian 
hunt — Description of Lake Wauteputsa — Admiration 
of the Indians on seeing a sail-boat — iuthor parts with, 
his boat and purchases horses — Separates from the In- 
dians and journies over land to the source of Red river. 

At the beginning of December the journey was be- 
coming very irksome, and was. rendered more so by con- 
stant rains and the rapidity of the current : however, to 
the head of the river I must go. About the 15th of 
December I arrived amongst a natioi^f Indians called 
the Uames. At the first interview I was received with 
coldness and jealousy. I had now to walk discreetly in 
every undertaking. My negro was no less suspicious 
than mvself. A small villas:e situated on the south shore 
was the port at which I stopped. The shores were soon 
full of inhabitants, several of whom could speak the 



KER^S TRAVELS. 91 

Spanish language. Leaving Edom with the boat, I re- 
paired to the chief, who was about seventy yeai's old : he 
spoke the Spanish language, and made much inqmr}^ 
with respect to my business in his nation. I replied tliat 
I had no other view than that of seeing the country. He 
told me immediately of the strength of his warriors. 
However, after a further interview he used me with civil- 
ity. I had remained in his habitation till about dusk, 
when I was surprised at hearing a tumultuous noise at 
the river. Supposing Edom to be in some difficulty, I 
hastened down, and found him contending with an Indian 
about some liquor. Having been asked by the Indian 
for some whiskey, he refused him, telling him he had 
none ; but soon after he took the liberty in my absence 
to make free use of it himself, which he had never done 
before. The Indian, discovering him pouring some out, 
stepped into the boat, and was about to help himself, 
when he was strenuously prohibited by Edom. A scuf- 
fle ensued, which might have proved alarming had I not 
been near. This trivial affair could be settled in no other 
way than by giving each of them a small taste of brandy, 
which I did Avith reluctance, not for the value of the li- 
quor, but the effects it might have on their dispositions. 

I gave a few trifling articles to the chief, who w^as 
highly pleased with them. They were a few of my 
paintings, representing birds, horses, Indians, 8cc. After 
this he invited me to spend the night with him, assuring 
me there was no danger of any further interruption with 
my property in the boat : many of the most valuable arti- 
cles I had taken out and kept concealed. 

This is a very subtle and intrepid tribe, well built, 
rather large, and of an unusually dark complexion. The 
men liave no other dress than that of a strip of cloth just 



^2 KER'S TRAVELS. 

large enough to cover their waists, and a pair of mocka- 
sons made of deer- skin. The women wear a bkmket or 
skin thrown loosely around them. Like all other tribes 
they expose their infants to tlie elements, and inure them 
to hardships, thus rendering their constitutions adequate 
to the different scenes of their life. Soon after the child is 
born they plunge it into M^ater, in order to prepare it in 
time for that element : they carry it naked on their back, 
with the head down, exposing it to the scorching beams 
of the sun ; and thus used on its entering the world, it 
becomes hardy, robust, and dauntless. When a few 
months old they slit their ears and put in leaden w^eights, 
which, in length of time, give them a singular appearance, 
having a part of their ears hanging quite down to their 
shoulders. 

They are very strict in the execution of their laws, and 
never grant a reprieve. If a woman commits adultery 
she has her t^^^o last fingers cut oft' ; tlie man but his little 
finger ; — then they are banished from society, the hus- 
band not marrying in two years after. The la^^ s are all 
appointed by the three chiefs belonging to the tribe. 

The towns, or camps, are supported by hunting par- 
ties, who are very expert in killing their game, having no 
other weapon than that of a bow and arro^vs. The 
choicest game is culled out for the chief. 

Their country is well adapted to corn and other grain, 
but they are too indolent even to clear their lands. I took 
the liberty of asking the chief some questions respecting 
agriculture, and whether he would not prefer tilling of 
lands to living in this way j' To which he answered, that 
the Great Spirit had shown the white men arts and sci- 
ences while they were in a poor country, (Europe,) and 
that he had given the red men an extensive countr\', full 



KER'S TRAVELS. 93 

of game ; that contrary to the expectations of the Great 
Spirit, the white people had crossed the big waters and 
come amongst them to make them unhappy ; that the 
Great Spirit would yet visit the red men with greater 
knowledge than he did the whites. He said that if there 
had been no game given to the red men, they should have 
had something , else provided for them, and that they do 
not waste so much of their time to get wealth, but live 
contentedly ; they do not expose themselves to the big 
waters, and make slaves of poor black men. At this 
last sentence he started up, imd with a firm voice said, 
why do they not make slaves of the Indians ; no, no, we 
will die under the most excruciating tortures before we 
submit ; — and remember, the Great Spirit has endowed 
us wdth fortitude ; he has also fi'eed our minds of any 
such black crimes ; w^e only contend for our rights, for 
our lands, of which we have been so often cheated. 

The old man's argument had deep impression on my 
mind ; though delivered in a simple style, it was sound, 
and if pronounced by the learned, it would shine with 
brilliancy before the highest court in the United States. 

They had several horses which were presented to them 
by the Spaniards ; these they use for the purpose of 
hunting, to which they are trained up with the greatest 
care. ■ 

During my stay with these Indians they held a dance, 
which, notwithstanding the wild appearance of it, was 
conducted with the greatest harmony, each one keeping 
step with their pow-wow. After the men had gone 
through their exercises, the \vomen commenced with 
such an. ease and elegance of manner, that it was at once 
pleasing and enticing. Their dance continued till about 
12 o'clock, when the chief came and asked me if I had 



94 KER'S TRAVELS. 

'any whiskey. Knowing that tliey knew I had some, I 
thought proper to own the truth. I had about a gallon 
left, and repaired to my boat where I found Edom asleep, 
covered with oil skins. It now began to rain. I took 
about t^vo quarts of brandy up with me, hiding die rest. 
The dance broke up in consequence of the rain, and we 
repaired to their huts, 'where they soon drank up their 
w^hiskey. The old man got a little boozey, and began to 
tell how much he loved me, and informed 'me he would 
the next day show me a place of metals. I was much 
pleased with this conversation, but was soon deprived of. 
it by his falling asleep. I now went down to my boat 
and crept in with my faithful Edoni, 

Next, morning I gave Edom his orders, and again re- 
paired to the hut. The old chief was a litde out of order 
at his stomach, but soon got over it. I now put him in 
mind of his promise the preceding evening, at which he 
was astonished, denying his ever telling me any thing of 
the kind. When I showed him a small piece of silver 
ore which he had presented me, he began to curse the 
brandy as being the instigator of his folly. I smiled, and 
told him nothing should be betrayed on my part, and that 
if it was repugnant to his wish, I should not further in- 
sist. After studying for some time, he suddenly con- 
sented to show me the place of metals, and seemed highly 
pleased in the undertaking. He consulted with some of 
his principal men, and sent two of them with me that 
could not speak Spanish. After ti'avelling for near two 
days "you may w^ell imagine the critical situation in which 
I thought myself ; but the third day I discovered their 
intrigue. About 10 o'clock in the morning they led me 
to a lead mine of some extent, at which I was much 
chagrined. In vain I flattered them by signs, shewing 



KER'S TRAVELS. 95 

them the piece of silver ore ; still they would point to the 
lead mine. Finding all in vain, I returned with tliem to 
the village, after having had a rough travel of about ninety 
miles. 

The old fellow smiled as I entered his hut, and laughed 
in his sleeve at the intrigue. I told him I was much dis- 
appointed. His answer was, that all he was to do was to 
let me see a place of metals ; by this I naturally sus- 
pected there was silver in abundance. 

Edom w^as much alarmed at my long stay, but said 
that no one had been there to disturb him except the old 
chief, who looked so grand that he thought if master had 
been there he would have giv^n him some brandy ; that 
he gave him a little, upon which the chief became very 
sociable, and talked with him a great while ; that he pre- 
tended to imderstand him, and answered him yes at every 
word, till he asked for more whiskey, he then answered 
him no ; the chief then went home, and glad enough was 
poor Edom. 

It was now time for me to proceed on my voyage ; but 
it was jvith regret that I left such strong marks of silver. 
Pressed forward by an impulse of future prosperity, I 
again started on the 25th of December. The weather 
had now become much cooler, and the travelling more 
agreeable. A few days' journey brought us to a large— 
branch of the Red river, which emptied in through a clus- 
ter of rocks, forming an amphitheatre of astonishing- 
height. I had the curiosity to ascend this branch for a 
considerable distance, where I found the country to be 
even, and not broken as at the mouth. Curiosity still 
led me up this stream, and I was attracted by the beauti- 
ful growth of timber, the starting of deer and other game. 
After ascending about five miles we encamped. We 



96 RER'S TRAVELS. 

had with us some fresh provision, which we cooked foi' 
our supper. The scent of our venison attracted many 
hungry ^isitors, which kept up an incessant howhng 
during the night, but not approaching within an hundred 
yards of our fire. 

I arose as dayhght appeared, admiring the wonders of 
creation. . Being determined on taking a tour witli my 
gun, I took Edom with me, after securing the boat. We 
proceeded in the woods for some distmce, and found 
the ground began to get low and marshy in many places. 
We saw signs of buftlilo having formed a kind of path, 
which we followed for a mile, and found it end at a salt 
spring. The spring afforded a considerable stream, which 
I found to be extremely salt, leaving in its course a kind 
of salt slime. The water inclined rather to a reddish 
colour. The ground for several rods around was beaten, 
and appeared to be often visited by wild beasts. I was 
resolved to spend die night by this spring, and sent 
Edom back to the boat for some articles which I waiited. 
He returned about two o'clock : we dien made a small 
ambuscade near the spring w ith a tree standing nearly in 
front, and waited with patience for our game. Some 
tim(* in the night we heard, as it were, a multitude of 
footsteps on the march to the salt lick. On coming near 
the spring they stopped, snuffing and smelling, as if all 
was not right. We kept closely concealed till they ap- 
proached the spring. I took the pams to count them, 
and found the herd to consist of ten buffiilo. Exulting 
with joy, I let loose at one of them which was within a 
rod of me, and shot him dead. The report of my gun 
alarmed the neighbouring beasts, and was ans^vered by 
the howling of wolves, the shrill cry of pandiers, and the 
precipitate retreat of the remaining herd, which darted like 



KER'S TRAVELS. 97 

lightning through the thicket. I sat some minutes to 
hear tlie confusion my firing had occasioned : the sound 
at length died away, after echoing and re-echoing up and 
down the river. I found the buffalo I had shot quite 
dead : he was very large, and of the male kind. We took 
off his skin by torch light, and in the morning returned 
to the boat with what we could conveniently carry. The 
skin I found to be of great service after it was properly 
cured, and the buffalo, though far from being the best*of 
meat, was very serviceable. Flushed with the success I 
had gained, and the singularity of my tour, I thought my- 
self almost invincible. We returned to the Red river. 

I now dwelt with rapture on the discoveries I expected to 
make, and it was my chief happiness to liave these con- 
solating thoughts strengthened by past occurrences. The 
second day after our leaving this creek, my negro was 
taken sick, which was a great disappointment to me. I 
endeavoured to work along the boat, but it was in vain, 
having no person to steer ; I now saw my want of him 
more than ever. I concluded to encamp until he might 
recover. I stopped on a small island about half a mile in 
circumference, where I fixed up a small habitation, and 
began to doctor my poor negro, who was very ill with .a 
fever. I administered to him according to the best of my 
abilities, and had the satisfaction of seeing him better in a 
few days. During his sickness I would frequently take a 
tour on the main shore with my gun, and found game in 
plenty ; I saw many bears, and a few of the catamount 
species, which I rather feared than loved. 

After Edom had sufficiently recovered, we again pro- 
ceeded ; he was still weak, and I would often row myself 
and make hirri steer. In this manner I prosecuted 

this arduous journev. The weather had become quite 

13 



98 KER'S TRAVELS. 

cool and frosty in the morning and evening, succeeded 
by long storms, which made our situation very unpleas- 
ant. 

I now reached a nation of Indians ^vho called them- 
selves the Ilisees tribe, having quite a different appear- 
ance from any I had yet seen. I discovered them by 
their canoes, six in number, which lay in a small bayau. 
I went on shore and waited their arrival, expecting they 
would soon return. They did not come back until about 
sunset, when I had just shoved off, and was going up, 
when they called me back in a kind of broken Spanish 
language* I returned, and they all expressed their 
friendship, shaking hands with me in turn, and telling 
me by signs and broken Spanish, that they lived about 
one day's journey to the south, and insisted on my ac- 
companying them thither ; at which I shook my head ; 
but they almost forcibly insisted, and I at length con- 
sented. We all entered a creek, which I before thought 
to be a bayau, and proceeded by Indian file till night 
overtook us. We all stopped, and they commenced 
fixing their camps. I did not feel well with respect to 
our safety, as they had much confederacy together ; and 
during the whole night I did not close my eyes in sleep- 
They k^t,^}) a po^v-wow during the night around a few 
small fires. I was sometimes diverted to hear them 
mock the owls and wolves, which would so exactly cor- 
respond with their sound that it would be impossible to 
distii"iguish them, changing their tones from the gruffest 
voice up to the keenest shrill. These and many other of 
their manoeuvres, kept sleep from my eyes ; yet I would 
pretend to be wholly unconcerned. We pitched our lit- 
tle tent amongst them. They told me their tribe was- 
very numerous, and that there was then -witli them a ^ 



KER'S TRAVELS. 99 

Spaniard who had been with them for the space of six 
moons, and that he had no desire to leave them. 

On receiving this information, my apprehensions were 
all removed with regard to the plot I before suspected. 
When we iirrived at the village, which was the next day 
about twelve o'clock, I was escorted before the chief, 
who sat in a drowsy position in his wigwam. I made 
immediate inquiry for the Spaniard. A small council 
was held among the Indians, in consequence of which I 
did not see him until the next day; and then to my great 
mortification I found him in a revery and almost speech- 
less : he spake but few words, and none of these ^verc 
satisfactory. I now had the mortification to see that one 
of his ears was cut off close to his head : this seemed to 
be a satisfactory proof of his former character. He con- 
fessed that he was American born, and that he had been 
led to commit a criminal act in the first settlement of the 
Missisippi teiTitory, on Pearl river ; that he was cropped 
and banished ; that he was the derision of every person 
he met with, and had sought to hide himself from the 
view of men in the wilderness, until it should please God 
to take him from the world ; and that he had at length 
come to this nation, in which he had found protection. 
He assured me that they were a cunning artful people, 
and apt to plunder, especially horses, for which they go a 
great distance. He informed me that the whole nation 
amounted to near two thousand ; that they have but one 
gun, which belonged to the chief; that their weapofts 
were bows, arrows, and knives, with which they \vere 
well provided. 

I made inquiry if there were any mineral substances 
that he had yet discovered in the country. He said there 
vas one. about an hundred miles to the north of tliem. 



100 KER'S TRAVELS. 

which he supposed to be extensive, but ^hat the diffi- 
culty in getting to it was greater than die profits arising 
from it ; but at no great distance there was a mine of 
copper which he had seen, and which was unknown to 
the Indians. We clandestinely visited this spot, and 
found a \em which we supposed to be nearly half a mile 
in length. 

During this time I was informed that the Indians were 
to have a hunting party in a day or two, and was invited 
to stay as it would be very diverting, and was to be on a 
small lake situated about t\vo miles west of the town. 
This lake communicated with the river by a small creek. 
After some deliberation, having had an invitation from 
them in general, I consented to stay. I was armed with 
a good never-missing rifle and a pair of belt pistols. The 
day of our departure from the little town on our hunting 
tour, was ushered in by a serene sky, and we s^j^rteduith 
the rising sun. The Indians had been previously pre- 
paring arrows, and equipping themselves in the best pos- 
sible manner. It was evident that their object was to 
outdo me. This I was very willing they should. I cast 
myself a few balls, cleaned my rifle, and fixed the chief 's 
gun, which I found to be in a bad predicament, rusty 
both inside and out, and not having been chai'ged in two 
years. I cleaned it as well as possible, cut him a few 
shot for the day, and gave him powder accordingly. 

We arrived at the lake in about an hour, myself and 
Edom in my boat, and the others, twenty in number, 
being two in each canoe. This lake is called by the In- 
dians Wautcputsa, or the water for game ; it is about 
tlirec miles in length, and a mile and a half in breadth, in 
the form of a coflin, and is bounded on all sides by 
priai'ies ; it is interspersed with some small islands. 



KER^S TRAVELS. 101 

On this lake and adjacent, there is game in abundance, 
especially at this time of the year, and they only appointed 
certain days to sport on this sacred place ; there were 
geese, ducks, cranes, and pelicans, in thousands, as well 
as deer, buffalo, and other land game that kept princi- 
pally on the west side, where I was informed were a num- 
ber of small salt licks. The white man that was with 
them refused to accompany us for some reason that I did 
not understand ; but after we had entered, he came along 
the shore, keeping at a little distance, in order not to dis- 
turb the game. The Indians would paddle their canoes 
with astonishing velocity and exactness. We had come 
near the centre island in the lake, and as yet had discov- 
ered no game of consequence ; but towards the head the 
imer was alive with geese. The Indians all got under co\'er 
of a small island, and approached in Indian file, not making 
the least noise in paddling, which I observed, and muffled 
my oar with some spare cloth I had with me. We had 
now reached the island, and all followed the chief hunter 
in a line, putting me in the rear even of my negro. We 
crossed the island and came behind an artificial breastwork, 
situate immediately on the bank. After placing them- 
selves in a proper attitude, those who had arro\vs dis- 
charged them first, which did not seem to create any 
alarm among the geese ; several were shot through, and 
surrounded by others squalling so tliat I could not hear 
myself speak. After a few were killed with arrows, the 
old chief fired his gun, but with no other effect than that 
of alarming the game to a flight. The Indians now sent 
back for their canoes ; I sent for my boat also, and on 
bringing them round to the head of the island we all 
entered as before. After they had picked up their game 
^hey gave shouts of joy resembling the scream of the 



102 KER^S TRAVELS. 

pelican, crane, and goose ; soon after we discovered a 
number of cranes hovering around us, and at length 
alighting at some distance on our starboard bow. The 
Indians let fly a volly of arrows, but the distance was too 
great. I had yet retained my fire, and was quite in the 
rear ; bidding Edom to ease his oars, I levelled my rifle 
and fired about 250 yards, and had tlie pleasure to see 
one shot dead. This much pleased the chief, who began 
to sing with vehemence, but was not followed by the 
others. I now told Edom to show his dexterity in row- 
ing, which he did, feathering his oars. We now reached 
the crane, and returned, presenting it to the chief. The 
Indians all lay in a row, in silent amazement, as I ap- 
proached tlie chief, who was making all signs of satisfac- 
tion in his power. I fired oflf one of my pistols as j> 
salute. 

The game being dispersed, they all began to sho^v 
their skill in the management of their canoes, and held 
a kind of play which I could not understand. Meantime 
a fi^ne breeze sprang up on the lake : I now thought that 
it was my time to show tliem an example. We bent our 
little sail, and hoisted it up with an 0-he-o-hea-vo : it 
caught the wind, and w^e moved with great celerity, and 
with such ease tliat it surprised the Indians. Having, at 
times a beam wind, it would keel up our little boat till 
she would take in water at the gunwale. We sailed quite 
to the head of the lake and fired, several salutes, then 
beating down against the wind far Below them, and then 
turning before it passed them so swift and so close that 
they could not endure the sight. Many of them caught 
hold of their boat when they saw us, thei# eyes being car- 
ried astray by the sail passing them. I had j ust passed them 
and lowered sail, when the chief rowed along- side and 



KER'S TRAVELS. 103 

begged permission to ride with me, suspecting I had the 
power of the Great Spirit. I took liim in, and alter 
taking a few turns lowered my sail. 

The sun had now sunk to its western bed, and the 
Ijreeze died away. Nothing eould exceed the beauty of 
the evening, and the ronumtic situation I was placed in. 
I'he rays of the sun were shedding their last lustre on the 
lake, and trembling as they departed. The wild appear- 
ance of the savages, and the melancholy aspect of every 
thing about the lake, brought Edom to a revcry. As we 
were all returning the Indians began a song, keeping 
time with their paddles, which continued until wc reached 
the shore. Hctc we wcTe met by the Spaniard, who 
congratulated me upon my success, and expressed the 
pleasure he had felt at seeing a little sail once more spread, 
a pleasure which he liad not enjoyed for twelve years. 

We returned to our encampment, where I was intro- 
duced to some squaws I had not before seen. The chief 
now kept constantly urging me to sell my boat ; but I 
informed him it vVas the only means I had to continue 
my travels, and strongly refused parting with it. He now 
seemed resolved, and told me I should not titke it out of 
his nation. I seemed to pay no reg-ard to his resolution, 
and was making preparations to depart, when I was told 
by the Spaniard they were in earnest, and that I could 
trade my boat for horses, but if I refused they would take 
it from me according to their custom, making their own 
bargains. I felt much cbigrined at this piece of infor- 
mation, and made strict enquiry concerning the country 
still westward. He informed me that the source of the 
Red river was about ninety miles further, a southwesterly 
course ; that some parts were mounUiinous, but passable. 



104 KER'S TRAVELS. 

and that after getting over the dividing ridge the country 
i\-as beautiful, and filled ^^'ith extensive priaries. 

I now suddenly changed my mode of travelling, and 
sold my boat for two small Spanish horses. I remained 
with diem long enough to make a couple of saddles after 
a temporary fashion, and s;\ddle-bags, which were made 
of my oil cloth. 

The poor old chief liked his boat extremely well, but 
could not manage his sails. He appointed a day in which 
to make trial, tlie wind being strong from the nortlieast. 
I advised the Spaniard to accompany him, for fear of some 
accident ; but the chief ^\'ould have the sole management 
of it himself. A sudden flaw of wind upset them, but 
fortunately it happened where the water ^vas not more than 
waist deep. By the Spaniard's help she was soon righted 
and bailed out. The chief then gave up the management 
to the white man, wlio conducted him with safety over 
this little sea. ' 

Time was now passing swifdy away, and I determined 
to proceed. After contriving a sort of bridle for each 
horse, with saddles and stirrups, and loading our equip- 
age, we started forward, making a most singular ap- 
pearance. Edom seemed well pleased with this way of 
travelling, choosing it in preference to rowing ; and in- 
deed I thought it the more expeditious. 

We left this little town, called by the Indians Wascoo, 
on the 10th of January, 1810. 



KER'S TRAVELS 105 



CHAP. VIIL 



More particular description of the Ilisees — Traditions of 
the natives — Superstitions respecting the sun — Dan- 
ger from wild beasts — Enormous wolf— Distress for 
want of water — Apprehensions of an attack from the 
Indians — Violent storm — Picturesque appearance of the 
country — Arrives at a settlement of Spaniards and 
Indians — Hospitable entertainment — Story of my Span- 
ish host — Parathee Indians — Some account of them — 
Cocoa nuts — General observations on the climate ^ bV. 

The Ilisees tribe are a well made people, of large stature, 
with high, square foreheads, sloping a little back ; their 
complexion is lighter than any I had yet seen ; their 
hair had a kind of reddish cast mixed with a shining 
black. They believe that the sun is the greatest being in 
existence, and that thunder and lightning were at his 
command ; they also suppose the moon to be a yilcoo, 
or wife of the sun, and that the stars are their offspring ; 
that since the white people began to settle their country, 
the Great Spirit was striving to scare them off' by sick- 
ness, and by shaking the earth,* in many places, espe- 
cially on the Missisippi ; that the red men are the fa- 
vourites of the sun. 

Their women are beautifully featured and have pleasant 
countenances, mixed with a certain modesty peculiar to 
their sex. The boys are early taught the use of the bow 
and arrow, and the girls the art of making little fancy 
baskets, &c. 

* See Perry's History of the Earthquakes. 

14 



106 KER'S TRAVELS. 

To be acquainted with their true disposition would 
require much experience ; but as fcir as I could discover, 
they were arbitrary and self-willed. They supposed that 
they originated from a people far towards the east, or 
rising sun ; that they were at war with some of tlie tribes 
in tliat place, and were defeated ; that a few of them, ac- 
cording to the account of their forefathers, had come to 
this countr}", having crossed big mountains, and come 
down two big waters, (the Ohio and Missisippi rivers,) 
and then up the Red river, until they found a country 
that suited them, being neither too hot nor too cold ; that 
the time tliat their ancestors came here was before there 
were any white men. 

The white man I found with them seemed rejoiced to see 
me again set out. From this circumstance I concluded 
there must either be something in the nation that attracted 
his attention, or he had no pleasure in seeing a wlutQ 
man. I could get from him no particulars of his life, as 
he would immediately change the subject to something 
else. He seemed much depressed, and would often 
utter inarticulate words with a deep sigh, which I sup- 
posed to proceed from a heavy heart. He slept with me 
the night before my departure ; in his sleep he seemed 
much troubled, and at one time exclaimed, O my wife and 
children ! This man must certainlj^ have been unliappy, 
and was lingering out a- life of wretchedness and misery ; 
he had probably committed some desperate act, and to 
avoid reproaches had wandered into this obscure region. 

The superstition of this tribe in regard to the sun's 
power is very extraordinary. When one of tliem dies, 
they cut a small slit in the sole of each foot, and lay in 
a leaf resembling a plant called the hound's tongue. This 
leaf is attracted by the sun, looking towards him in the 



KER'S TRAVELS. 107 

morning, and following him till he sets in the west : it 
then closes up till morning, and again opens with the day. 
This they believe will conduct them safely to that ele- 
ment, as the saviour of their souls. After this piece of 
superstition is completed, the dead are buried, and the 
above-mentioned plant is transplanted on their grave : if 
it should live, they believe their departed friend has ai'- 
rived at his blessed abode ; but should the plant not live, 
they suppose the fact established, that the person on whose 
grave it was placed, remains dead as the beasts of the 
Avoods for ever. After the burial is o\er, they seek to 
forget their sorro^v in a festal dance. 

I set out from this tribe on the before-mentioned day, 
with an escort of a number of the natives, who accompa-. 
nied me to the head of the lake, and returned. By the 
directions I had received from the Spaniard, with regard 
to the source of the river, I concluded to steer west north- 
west. I was much better equipped than might be ex- 
pected, having a small axe something larger than a toma- 
hawk, for which I calculated to have great use. The first 
day, we lengthened our course by taking a circuitous 
route to avoid bogs and morasses. At night we encamp- 
ed on a little priarie, which afforded a good bait for our' 
horses. We gathered some fuel and erected a small fire, 
the weather being quite cool. We tied our horses head 
and foot, not following the directions we had received 
from the Indians, who told us that we could let them run 
at large and they would not leave us ; but being appre- 
hensive of some intrigue, and that they by these means 
expected to get their horses again, we were cautious. 
This was only a conjecture of mine. Our horses staid 
quietly around us, the pasture being good : in substance- 



108 KER'S TRAVELS. 

it resembled the blue grass, and though it was something 
withered they ate it with greediness. 

But this night was rendered very unpleasant by the con- 
stant roar of the wolves which surrounded us in an open 
field. Our horses kept near the lire, and would shudder 
at their tremendous howl. They often approached so 
near to us, as to be seen very plainly during the forepart 
of the night, and towards morning they became quite 
alarming, and would approach within pistol shot. What 
rendered our case more dangerous, was the scarcity of 
fuel, and there being none handy ; we used what we had 
with economy, but at length it was quite extinguished, 
and only a few embers left : these we scattered round, 
which caused a momentary terror in the wolves. I was 
now resolved to try my rifle at one which cautiously ap- 
proached towards our horses : I levelled between his 
eyes, and shot him dead upon the spot. This caused a 
dreadful howling through the woods, which in a short 
time died away, and few more were heard till daylight 
appeared, \vhich to me was the most glorious light I had 
ever beheld, as I had but one more ball cast, and no fire 
or fuel. Between daylight and sunrise I cast about 150 
balls. We cooked provision for the day, and continued 
our journey. 

The length of the wolf I had killed was six feet ten 
inches from the snout to the end of the tail ; the tail 
measured two feet. It was of a ground colour, with a 
black list or streak running along the back ; its teeth 
were long and sharp ; its body was slim and poor, and 
its ribs distinctly to be seen, shewing its want of food ; 
its ears were about the length of those of a cur dog. 
^ The ball liad struck him in the breast, and passed through 
liis vitals» 



KER^ TRAVELS. 109 

January 1 1th. Passed through an extensive tract of 
open priaries, which afforded neither water nor provender 
for our horses. We were about encamping for the night 
without either, or even fuel to make a fire ; but consider- 
ing the danger we had passed the night before, and that 
our situation could not be worse, we still pursued our 
course, and a little in the evening discovered a fog arising 
on our right. This I knew must proceed from low wet 
ground, or from a pond. Our horses seemed anxious 
and impatient, we gave them the reins, and in the space 
of half an hour they brought us on the margin of a small 
creek, into which they plungeH and satisfied their thirst, 
as we did also our own. 

We here saw fresh Indian signs ; a deer having been 
dressed on the opposite side of the creek, gave us the 
strongest suspicion. We thought it prudent to keep 
watch during the night, as we dreaded the clandestine vi- 
sits of savages more than that of the wolves the preceding 
night. We made but a small fire, and kept our horses 
near us. During the night I heard the distant echo of an . 
Indian voice, after which all was silent till daylight. 

On the 12th we had a cold and tedious storm from the 
southwest. It rained violently, biit I had now become 
hardened and capable of any fatigue, either from suffering 
by disappointment, bodily labour, or exposure to the^ 
changing seasons and nightly dews — to all, my constitii*- ' 
tion had become inured. 

We had now come to an old Indian camp ; some of 
the huts were still remaining. The heavy rains compell- 
ed us to stop here : we found a plenty of Spanish moss 
for provender, and repaired to one of the huts, which we 
made to answer a good purpose by spreading our oil 
rlotlTS over it. Towiurds evening the storm abated, and 



110 KER'S TRAVELS. 

Edom • expressed a desire to go out and try his skill in 
shooting for game : to this I consented, as we were near- 
ly out of provision, having none of the bread kind left, 
Edom returned a little after sunset, with a rackoon and 
Itirgc tortoise, which he had taken near a sw^amp. These 
we diessed and dried. 

Jan. 15th. We crossed a considerable stream running 
a northeasterly course, which I supposed to be one of the 
branches of the Red river. Here we were detained for 
some time in making a small wicker raft, in ^vhich we 
took our equipage safe across, and then returned and 
swam our horses over. This stream is about fift;^ yards 
wide, and runs very rapidly, its course being much bro- 
ken by rocks, and is very deep. 

Continuing our course west southwest until die 20th 
of January, the mountains**began to appear conspicuous, 
gently raising their blue summits one above another until 
met by the sky. Game, (which was our only dependence 
for subsistence,) we found not to be so plenty as we had 
before. 

Our prospects were truly pleasing in going over these 
ridges, especially as we surmoimted the last one to\A^ards 
the ^vest that we could observe. On this, one could pcr- 
cei\'e by turning round, a sugar loaf peak ; a naked sum- 
mit of rocks, with tailing cascades ; an extensive priarie.; 
a wild forest ; pleasant vallies — and in short, every thing 
romantic, sublime, ^^ ild, and solitary. 

During our painful tour over tliese hills we killed a 
bear, catamount, and wild hog ; though deer, buffalo, and 
the like, are seldom seen. Tlirough these ridges are vast 
quantities of iron ore, copper, and some silver — but the 
principal bed is iron, laying quite bare in many placeSt 



KER'S TRAVELS. Ill 

Here my compass refused to obey its polarity, and gave 
way on every side as attraction excited. 

We had on the last of this month reached the last emi- 
nence. The thermometer stood at 63"" 25' at 12 o'clock. 
Immediately on our course I discovered an extensive 
opening, and on a nearer ken witli my glass, I found it to 
be a priarie, and could distinguish cattle in abundance 
feeding upon the plains. We pursued our course, and 
in the evening found to our great pleasure a settlement of 
Spanish and Indians. There were but few houses, and 
those much scattered. Our appearance being somewhat 
singular, gave a sudden surprise to an Indian belonging 
to a house we first rode up to ; but making myself known 
as well as I could, I was immediately conducted to a 
Spaniard's house. I was truly glad to see him, and he 
as much astonished to see a regular traveller through this 
country. I alighted, and after giving him a short detail 
of my journey he insisted on our staying with them a few 
days to recruit our horses, and rest ourselves, to which I 
most willingly consented. Our horses were turned out 
at large with theirs on the priaries. The kind host re- 
galed us with a good supper, or good for a wilderness 
country ; it consisted of ash cake, venison, and bear's 
meat, besides coffee. I never ate \vith more satisfaction. 

Next morning and a part of the day were spent in con- 
versation, in which he related to me his proceedings, and 
the cause of his settling in so remote a part of the country. 
His narrative was as follows : 

That himself and the others that came with him had 
been brought thither, or near the place in which he now 
lived ; that his father, widi several others, had escaped the 
convulsions in 177P, in which the famous city of Guati- 
mala was destroyed; that a fev/ families lived on a 



112 KER'S TRAVELS. 

mountain situated about nine miles cast of tlie vale m 
which the principal to^v^l stood, employed in tlie business 
of cuttiui; timber. For several days previous to tliat 
drL\idt\il CNcnt, (as he had been inlbrnied by his fatlier,) 
tlieiv Mas something in the a])pearanee of natinv that 
boded notliing gocxl : a sullen stillness prevailed ; the air 
seemed to be in a state of stagnation ; tlie aniniiil creation 
was in aA\liil distress ; some fowls were throA\ n into con- 
A'ulsions ; tlie sun an as scarcely n isible^ and nature seem- 
ed to have changx^d its appearance, and, lulled to sleep, 
to be resting on the brink of destruction. On the 20di 
of June, about ten o'clock, the air seemed to be filled 
widi dusty fragments ; fowls of e\ er}' description huddled 
in flocks together, and die beasts howled witli horror. 
An awful din commenced that rumbled alono* the vale, 
imd was succeeded by Repeated shocks : tixes, hills, 
houses, man, and beast, could no longvr maintain an erect 
posture, but fell prostrate, confessing dieir weakness by 
repeated cries for mercy. Ancient and modern history 
fall far short of an instance so tcirible, rendered more so 
by liaA'ing a warning, and the harbingvr of desolation pre- 
sented in e>'er\- object. .\ dismal roll swept along the 
chaos, and suddenly the atmosphere was chiuigx^d, app;\- 
rently in die horizon towards the city ; alas ! die city was 
no more, its ruins floated in the air :^ the third shock, with 
a dreadful crash, tenninated the existence of Guatimaku 
Our mountain A\as in an awful suspense, vibrating, 
shaking its basis, and opening large ca>ities on its sur- 
lace. The night w as dark and solemnly still, excepting 
the interAals of a dixadful roar. The eiutli seeniexl to be 
jxiined with con> ulsions for several days togedier, and for 
months after diey w ould feel slight shocks of eardiquakes, 
w hich was the cause of their leaving that countr} . They 



""'^W ' 



KER\S TRAVELS. 113 

had settled several times, and were disturbed by the In- 
dians : at leni^th, after many painful years, they had ar- 
rived where they now were, near a tribe of Indians ealled 
tile Parathees, who inhabit a fine traet of eountry on both 
sides of a eonsiderable stream of water. Their land was 
fertile, and they were likely to live in peace and plenty. 
They all had Indian wives except one, Whose wife had 
died in consecjuence of the excessive fatigue they en- 
dured for several years together in a wilderness country. 
They had some land clctired which bore com in great 
plenty, and had formed a resolution to remain here for life. 
They have many horses, which they use in hunting the 
elk. During ftiy stay the weather proved very rainy, and 
the travelling would have been very tedious. I here pro- 
cured some wine of a pleasant taste, made by them from 
an excellent grape. They had a species of the cocoa-nut 
which afforded much flavour, though not to be compared 
with those of the southern islands for size nor taste. 

The climate of this country is not surpassed by that of 
any on the continent, either for mildness, or heat ; and on 
the elevated situation of high mountains the snow lies dur- 
ing the year. The maritime places are extremely hot ; 
owing to their low situation, all vapours of heat driven 
from colder regions settle here, and render the summer 
season quite unpleasant. But in latitudes from 29 to 40" 
north, the climate is pleasant and delightful, being fanned 
by cooling breezes, which waft along the atmosphere, and 
salute every pleasant vale and ascent with the blessing of 
peace and harmony, quiet from cultivation, and CJijoying 
the sublime sweets of a natural state. 

We have tp regret that a set of arbitrary Ijcings ha\ c 

p(tescssion of a land which might be of much worth to a 

civilized peoj)lc. 'i'heir extensive kingdom is their prin- 

15 



114 KER'S TRAVELS. 

cipal boast : they indulge in indolence and dissipation, 
being supported by their rich mines of gold and silver. 
Though sunk in ignorance and superstition, they boast of 
their abilities, and in many instances rank themselves with 
a superior class of beings. Their ideas are led to an ex- 
travagant height by their being so particularly favoured 
by their gods in being thus situated in a land of riches, 
while tlie neighbouring countries are in a state of igno- 
rance respecting their vast wealth, supposing them not 
even to enjoy happiness without a mine of gold at their 
very doors. Mistaken people, you are sunk in oblivion, 
and do not even enjoy the social benefits of society and 
friendship amongst mankind ; you have wealtli, but you 
do not know how to enjoy it ; you have the finest coun- 
try in the world, but you will not cultivate it ; you have 
noble streams of water, but they envy your weight on 
tlieir bosom, and only rejoice to bear your riches to en- 
lightened kingdoms, where it is distributed for the use of 
mankind. If you would open your hearts and hands to 
a free intercourse, and live as Christians ought to live, 
you might enjoy happiness ; if you would distribute 
your gold for ample returns of merchandize, you might 
live respected, and be no more perplexed ^vith envious 
people, who court you for your treasures, while diey 
despise you for your pnnciples. 



^W■ 



KER'S TRAVELS. 11/5 



CHAP. IX. 



The author leaves the settlement and proeeeds on his jour- 
ney — Useful directions received from the settlers — 
Difficulties in crossing the river Gagundo — Alligators 
— Beauty and grandeur of the forests — Imminent dan- 
ger of the author — Dangerous night from the wild 
heasts — Meet a tribe of Indians — Misconduct of my 
negro — His distress and sorrow — Description of the 
Badies — Author goes on a beaver hunt — His perilous 
^ iSitication — Arrival at the camp of the chief of the 
Badies — Determination of the chief to keep my negro 
— Distress of my negro — Gcneral\emarks on the na- 
ture of the savages — Obtain my negro'' s liberty bt/M 
singular expedient. 

About the 10th of February we again started, having 
exchanged horses with the settlors, and provided good 
saddles, and taking as much provision as we could con- 
veniently carry, with the rest of our load. Our horses 
travelled free. I got directions for the best and nearest 
way towards the city of Mexico, which place I was dc- 
lermfned to visit. Our course was to be west for about 
200 miles, then southwest until we reached a large clus- 
ter of mountains ; we were then to steer south, in which 
course we should find the Spanish settlements. At the 
same time we were warned of the dangers to which ^ve 
should be exposed, both from savage men and beasts ; 
but this news did not shock me, for I had the worst of 
deaths already painted in my imagination. I feared morr 



116 KER'S TRAVELS. 

from inundations in the spring season, than from the in- 
habitants. 

For several days we proceeded without much inter- 
ruption, except that of crossing some large creeks, which 
were not fordable ; but when we came to a rapid river, 
called the Gagundo, we were much perplexed in finding 
means to cross it, and in the attempt, my negro's horse 
and part of our provisions were lost. The stream was 
about 300 yards wide, and ran more rapid than I ima- 
gined. We procured several sticks of timber of a proper 
size, of which we made a raft ; but on getting our things 
on board and shoving off, ^ve were carried down with 
such velocity that it was impossible to set across, although 
we could* easily reach bottom with our poles, the water 
being only about six feet deep. We got about half way 
across, and found it unsafe to proceed, on account of 
some rocks we discovered below, against which we were 
in danger of being carried by the rapidity of the current. 
We just passed the breakers, and were glad to come on 
shore on the same side from whence we started, about half 
a mile below. I then sent Edom up for one of the 
horses, and having put our provision on his back, we 
returned to our first fording place. Chagrined with this 
useless labour, I determined to swim the horses across : 
I took all my ammunition, and aiticles it was necessary 
to keep dry, and bound them to my head and shoulders, 
and entered, directing my negro to remain till I should 
get safe over, and then to follow. In crossing, my horse 
had many struggles, sometimes touching bottom, and 
sometimes falling into deep channels ; but at length I 
got safe across. I now beckoned for Edom, who had 
with him our provision. After he had got within about 
an hundred yards of me, his horse stumbled and fell on 



KER'S TRAVELS. 117 

his side, with Edom, provision, and all : Edom soon 
recovered himself, and caught a part of the provision ; 
but the horse, getting his feet entangled in the bridle, was 
unable to recover, and soon drowned. After struggling 
for some time, my poor negro got safe ashore, much 
troubled for the loss of his horse. I comforted him by 
saying it was a rough passage and dangerous under- 
taking, and told him I had rather lose both the horses 
tlian my rifle, which he had saved ; in fact, I was well 
pleased it was no worse. 

We here encamped, having spent the greatest part of 
the day in making a raft and crossing. We dried 
those things that were wet, looking well to the rifle, 
and cleaning and loading it. My poor negro seemed 
much disheartened, expecting he should have to ponder 
his way through the wilderness on foot. During this 
night I saw a glimmer of light some distance down the 
stream, and could not imagine what it might be ; how- 
ever, the next day our curiosity was gratified, for by 
altering our course in order to escape a pond of ^vater, 
and travelling some distance down the river, we beheld 
the same tree we had set on fire the preceding day at 9 
o'clock, being not more than 700 yards from the river, 
on the opposite side. We had now got quite round this 
pond on tlie northeast side. The sun shone very warm, 
and numerous alligators were seen ; some of them were 
of a large size mid length ; they lay basking in the sun, 
and seemed not to move at our approach. Our horses 
were very shy, not being habituated to them. The smell 
of the alligator is very disagi'eeable ; it is between that of 
the musk and the polecat. As they lie thus basking in 
the sun, they throw open their upper jaw, which forms a 
right angle with the lower one ; in this manner they lie as 



118 KER'S TRAVELS. 

if tliey were lifeless until a sufficient quantity of insects, 
bugs, and the like, are collected within their peaceful 
jaws ; then suddenly dropping the jaw, they enclose their 
prey and swallow them whole. The great strength of 
their nature enables them to digest even poison. The 
younger ones are often destroyed by the catamount, and 
other beasts of prey ; many are likewise devoured by the 
larger alligators, and thus nature has provided a way to 
clestroy these dangerous beasts, and keep their number 
down, which would otherwise render the country unin- 
habitable. 

We this day pursued our journey, and the weather 
proved mild. At 12 o'clock we were in front of an un- 
commonly large growth of timber, at the entrance of which 
we encamped for the remainder of the day and night, in 
order to procure some provisions. Finding plenty of 
provender for our horse, we let him run at large, putting 
a bell on his neck. 

I took my rifle and entered the shady recesses of the 
forest. The sycamore, the buck-eye, the oak, the hick- 
ory, and the chesnut, rose in beauty and magnificence. 
An uncommonly large sycamore excited my curiosity, 
which, on surveying, I found to be sixty-nine feet in cir- 
cumference, making its diameter nearly twenty-three feet. 
Although this may appear incredible, I have been inform- 
ed that they are sometimes found much larger. 

I had proceeded some distance in this beautiful wood, 
when I discovered a small gro^vth of hickories on a little 
rise of ground, which appeared alive with something ; 
and on neai^er approach, I found them to be squirrels of 
an uncommon size, amongst which were the black, the 
large cat, and the gray squirrels. There was no necessity 
of firing at them, for I soon heard a deer rustling through 



KER^S TRAYEL9. 119 

(he leaves at some distance from me. Hardly knowing 
which way to turn myself, or \vhat to shoot at, I stood 
motionless by the side of a chesnut tree, when I saw a 
large buck walking up with much assurance towards the 
place where I stood. He approached within ten rods of 
me, when I let fly at him, and had the mortification to 
see him fall only half dead. He soon recovered, and, 
springing upon his feet, bounded off a few paces. I step- 
ped out to reload, by which means I was discovered ; 
when, racking with pain, and with rage sparkling in his 
eyes, he sprang towards me : I had the ball about half 
way down, and the ramrod still in my rifle ; in this situ- 
ation I cocked, and had just time to raise and fire off* my 
piece, before he reached me : the ramrod and ball enter- 
ed his breast, and brought him to the ground, as well as 
myself; for the sudden passage of the fire being stopped 
when it reached the ball, which was extremely tight, pro- 
duced such a shock that I fell, and knew not for some 
time whether the fall was occasioned by my gun or the 
beast. However, on my recovering I found him just 
breathing his last. The echoing report of two guns in 
so short a time, soon brought my faithful negro with 
both the pistols, he supposing that I was engaged with 
Indians. 

We lugged the game to our encampment, and cook- 
ed some of it : this brought us in a dreadful situa- 
tion, for we were now surrounded with wolves, eager for 
their prey, and I repented having let at large my faithful 
horse. I kindled a large fire and gathered a quantity of 
fuel, and soon my horse came trotting up, and frisking 
with pleasure, as if safe with us, and near a fire. This 
night the wild beasts seemed to hover round us by hun- 
dreds, and I feared I should exhaust my small store of 



120 KER'S TRAVELS, 

fuel before daylight appeared. I was under the necessity 
of lavishing out my little stock of provisions. The deer 
which I had killed I cut up in small pieces, and at the 
near approach of the wolves, would heave it to them ; this 
seemed to satisfy them but for a few moments ; I then 
tlirew fire brands at them, which seemed only to increase 
their rage, while it extinguished my fire. I now made 
two large fires, which had a good effect ; several still kept 
round us, but approached no nearer than the circle of 
light which shone with brilliancy from our fire. 

Next morning we again packed up, and started for- 
ward. This day's travel was rendered very tedious by 
reason of a large tract of swampy land. Having got 
quite dirough the swamp we fell into a small trace of a foot 
path, which unexpectedly came in our way, and created 
within me some suspicion that we were in the neighbour- 
hood of savages ; I determined however to keep the path. 
We encamped a litde after dark. Soon after, my negro, 
who had been gathering fuel, hastily returned, informing 
me that at no great distance he saw a fire, and that he 
also saw several men standing around it. I went to the 
spot from whence he had seen them, and soon found that 
they were savages. I now knew not whether to go to 
them, or to remain where I was ; but concluding that 
they w^ould see our fire, and might steal a march upon us 
and plunder us, and then make their escape in the woods, 
and on the other hand that if I went boldly up to them I 
might be well received, I resolved to go directly to them. 
Accordingly we repaired towards the fire, where I found 
several Indians who were totally naked. I had approached 
within fifty yards of them undiscovered, and stood still, 
not knowing in what manner I should inti'oduce myself. 
At length I began a conversation wdth my negro so loud 



KER'S TRAVELS. 121 

that they might hear it ; this alarmed them, and several 
sprang upon their feet who had been laying down, and 
whom I had not seen before ; they were looking and 
peaking in every direction. I still continued my conver- 
sation with my negro, at the same time moving towards 
them. My negro, being on foot, kept close to my side. 
At length they got sight of my horse, which was white. 
They began jabbering, and I could hear them pronounce 
in a broken voice, Spaniard. I rode quite up to the 
fire, and the little pappooses ran behind their mothers. 
After dismounting; I presented my hand, which they all 
took in rotation ; but they seemed rather shy of my jet 
black negro, who offered his hand ; they were cautious, 
and would hardly touch it. I made them to understand 
that I was their brother, by laying my hand oh my left 
breast. I made them understand by signs that my horse 
was hungry, and one or two of the squaws were immedi- 
ately sent away ; they soon returned, bringing with them 
some young corn and Spanish moss, which my horse ate 
very well. They presented us with some fruit not unlike 
our crab-apple in appearance, but which had the taste of 
a raspberry. I took out some of my venison and began 
to eat, and discovermg by their actions that they had got 
none, I equally divided my little store among them ; with 
this they seemed much pleased. 

I spake a few words in Spanish, and was answered by ' 
a very old ifian, who spoke so distinctly that it rendered 
our conversation quite easy. He made strict enquiry re- 
specting the course I had come, and whither I was going. 
I answered all his questions with as much ease as possi- 
ble, and seemed not to be concerned with regard to my 
situation. They appeared suspicious when I told them 
I was exploring the country : they would look at c;tch 

16 



122 KER'S TRAVELS. 

other, then at me, and then at my horse : I immediately 
added, that I ^vas bound to Mexico to see my friends. 
We were treated with coldness during the night. They 
invited us to lay do^vn with them by their fire : we ac- 
cepted the invitation, and my negro slept well, having 
had but little rest the night before, on account of the 
wolves. About four o'clock in the m.orning 1 awaked 
Edom, and after bidding him not to close his eyes again, 
soon fell asleep, and did not av/ake until I heard my 
horse trotting by me : I sprang up, and found a young 
Indian on the horse, and his father leading him, who 
made signs that he only wanted to amuse his boy. I 
found Edom asleep ; but the past fatigues having worn 
him down, I let him remain. He awaked about sunrise^ 
and instantly remembering my caution, begged pardon- 
for his offence. The horse being out of sight, and some 
of the Indians having gone, knowing the whole of the 
proceedings, I very coolly asked him where my horse 
ivas, pretending I had just awoke. In an instant his eye 
was on ever}' side, but no horse could he discover. I 
had laid my rifle and ammunition under some skins, and 
asked him where my rifle was, affecting a look of despair. 
The poor negro fell on the ground and begged me to kill 
him, at the same time adding, that if I Avould spare his life 
he would never sleep again on such an occasion. He be- 
ing my only friend, and knowing his honesty, and that 
excessive fatigue had been the occasion of his present ^ 
misconduct, I pardoned him, but not without telling him 
the consequences of being unwatchful at such a time. 

The Indians having returned with my horse, I began 
to make enquiiy with respect to their nation. They in- 
foi'med me that they were called by the Spaniards the 
Badies, or in their own tongue the Quasmigdo tribe^ and 



KER'S TRAVELS. 123 

that their nation was very powerful ; that they had been 
sent hither for the purpose of hunting, and had that day 
arrived ; that their brethren Uved about two days journey 
towards the setting sun ; that their chief was a very big 
man, and a great warrior. 

I found their principal weapons to be i^ows and arrov/s, 
the arrows pointed with copper : they ha^'e also spears 
pointed with deer's horn, which are about ten feet long ; 
these they throw in the manner of a javelin. They have 
but few knives, which they use principally in dressing 
their game. These people are very fond of music and 
dancing. Their principal way of hunting is by ensnaring 
their game, in which they are very artful : not only the 
men, but the women have various ways by which they 
entice them, sometimes in pens built for that purpose, 
which are made of cane entwined together. 

We had been with them for some time, and saw many 
of their manoeuvres, which had no other effect than to 
give us a proper idea of Indian manners. Their dexter- 
ity on foot is very surprising. 

One morning they brought wibh them to the camp a 
number of skins, and amongst the rest some beavers : it 
was now my determination to visit the pond or lake, in 
which they said they caught them. Next morning I 
started^ leaving my negro behind, with the goods and 
horse. I was during the day impressed a^ ith a strong 
idea that all wiiR not right at the camp. We killed some 
deer and beavers, and at about ten o'clock in the eve- 
ning returned ; but alas ! I missed my faithful negro. I 
stood speechless for some time, and flattered myself with 
the hope that he would soon return ; but the two Indians 
which were left at the camp were also gone, and all my 
equipments. I spoke at first in a vehement rage, but 



424 KER^S TRAVELS. 

was pacified by having an arrow pointed at my breast : I 
cocked my gun, Avhich greatly terrified the poor fellow 
that was about letting loose at me. I was told, however, 
that it was useless to resist, as I should be overpowered 
by numbers, and that the next day I was to accompany 
*hem to their chief, who was about tw^o days' journey off. 
I at first refused to go ; but when they informed me that 
my negro and horse had gone thither, I consented. The 
next morning we set out, and in about an hour came to a 
considerable stream, where the savages had bark canoes ; 
in these we descended the river until about sunset, when 
we came to an encampment of several Indians and squaws, 
who had also been on the business of hunting. The 
Indians had much conversation together, occasionally 
looking at me, and then continuing their conversation 
with repeated shouts of victory. Judge of my feelings in 
the situation in which I then was ; they had taken from 
me my gun and pistols, and had tied my hands behind 
me : in this situation I next morning began to descend 
the river. One of the Indians was shockingly mangled 
by means of one of my pistols, with which he was play- 
ing : while looking very earnestly at the bore of the pis- 
tol, and playing with his fingers about the trigger, being 
cocked, it went off, and its contents tore away his left 
cheek, and shockingly mangled his face. At this, he im- 
mediately threw the pistol into the river, and fiiinted away. 
I was in hopes it had killed him, or wounded him mor- 
tally, at the same time fearing lest I should be held ac- 
countable for the deed ; but they must know me to be 
innocent, as I was sitting in the boat with my hands tied 
behind me. 

At the report of the pistol repeated shrieks re-echoed 
from e\'ery quarter, and I Avas soon surrounded bV several 



KER'S TRAVELS. 125 

canoes ; but on examination they found he had committed 
the act with his own hands. An old man then took my 
rifle and the other pistol in his boat, and left an ugly 
squaw to row my boat and nurse the wounded man. I 
sat in a very resdess state, expecting to undergo some 
torture for the accident which had happened. 

In the afterpart of the day I found this stream opened 
into a kind of lake. An island appeared in the centre, 
surrounded by water of no great width. The sun was 
just setting, and all nature had a mournful appearance. 
I saw a smoke at a distance through the opening, and on 
the island and shores I discovered a crowd of people, 
eager to see a white man. 

For near two hours were these two parties yelling, be- 
ing answered by each other, and keeping up a continual 
noise. Having got within a quarter of a mile of the par- 
ty on shore, I saw my white horse standing in the midst 
of a multitude of savages. 

At length we reached the shore, and I was untied and 
led before the big man ; in reality he was lai'ge enough 
for a giant : I judged him to be at least seven feet two 
inches in height, and he was suitably proportioned. He 
gave shrieks of joy at having such strange looking ani- 
mals as myself and negro in his power ; but ^vhen the 
wounded man that had shot himself was brought before 
him, I could compare his yells to nothing else than bro- 
ken thunder. The man that was shot proved to be his 
brother's son ; the cause was explained to him, and he 
was reconciled towards me. 

On my first landing I saw my negro tied fast to a tree, 
and he began to cry horribly, his sighs rending the air. 
I addressed myself to one whc understood Spanish, and 
requested him to speak in the negro's behalf, which he 



125 KER'S TRAVELS. 

did without hesitation ; but soon returned v^dth an answer 
that the chief had taken a paiticular hking to him, and he 
privately informed me that it would be difficult for me to 
get him away. The idea of losing my faithful negro 
created a sudden anxiety, which was soon turned to de- 
pression of spirit. 

I was now stripped and searched, having all my clothes, 
my shirt excepted, taken off : fortunately riiey missed my 
little fortune, which I had concealed in a band around me, 
it being in gold. They gave me my clothes and return- 
ed to me my horse, the chief at the same time telling me 
I was at liberty : they also restored to me my gun and 
other equipments, the lost pistol excepted. I asked if 
my black man was also at liberty, but was answered in 
the negative. I then asked them if I could remain in 
their nation long enough to procure some provision, and 
recruit my horse: they told me that was repugnant to 
the chief's wishes ; however they consented, making me 
promise not to have any communication with the black 
man, whom the chief boldly said he meant to keep. I 
had noAv nothing to do but wait with as much patience 
as possible, hoping that by some means I should be able 
to rescue my Edom from a life of wretchedness and mis- 
ery among savages, who would perhaps treat him with 
contempt, and keep him in slavery. But I was informed 
that they thought him far superior to white men, in con- 
sequence of his being black : they supposed him to be 
made of a superior quality of clay, and that the red clay 
men ranked next ; but the white men they thought were 
made of the poorest kind of clay, and that the Great 
Spirit, after he had made them, had pity on them and 
gave them learning, but would not bestow it upon black 
and red men, because they were pure and spotless as they 



KER'S TRAVELS. 127 

were first made. The white men, they said, had polluted 
themselves, and their learning had been a great evil 
amongst all nations and kindreds of people. They be- 
lieved that the red men would yet be blessed with all 
the good stores of nature, and have dominion over all 
the countiy, and that the slaves would be all set at liber- 
ty. I soon grew wear}^ of this conversation. 

My poor negro, by some means, got information of 
their proceedings, and was almost mad with rage and de- 
spair : the dreadfid apprehension of being again in slave- 
ry, caused him to vent his anguish and threats against the 
savages, which provoked them to such a degree that a 
council was held concerning him. He was yet confined, 
and by an interpreter he was informed, that if he would 
stay with them and marry a squaw, he should be happy ; 
at the same time he was given to understand, that in case 
of a refusal, he would be tortured to death. He firmly 
refused a compliance, and another council was held, by 
which it was determined to try the effect of torture. No 
one could describe the anguish that filled my breast, on 
seeing my faithful Edom led out by this big monster, the 
chief, to have his fortitude tried. Having led him to the 
appointed place, they stripped him naked and tied him to 
a tree; they then sheared off* his wool close to his head, 
and the infernal torture then began by throwing hot em- 
bers on his bare skull, notwithstanding his lamentations 
and my entreaties : they also threatened me with condign 
punishment if I said any thing more in his behalf. In 
this way they served him, for no other crime than that of 
being faidiful to me. They now desisted for a few mo- 
ments, and asking Edom if he would yet consent to stay, 
he answered, that if they would spare his life he would 



128 KER'S TRAVELS. 

live with them and serve them. His head was sorely 
scorched by these infernal monsters. 

I now began to lose all hopes of regaining his liberty, 
and concluded to pursue my journey alone, but not with- 
out regret. These Indians are a cruel race of people, 
whose only wish is to gratify their own desires : their 
hearts are unfeeling towards the wretched victims who 
have the misfortune to be placed within the reach of their 
power. A few days passed on in anxious suspense, when 
by a kind providence it was removed by critical means, 
and such as would cause a feeling heart to shudder. 

We had been with them about seven days ; the man 
who had wounded himself with my pistol began to re- 
cover, and they were fitting out another hunting party ; 
at the same time I was making preparations to go, and my 
poor negro overwhelmed at the idea of parting, and being 
left in a place so wretched and forlorn. My gun having 
been charged some time, I drew oflf the load and put in 
fresh powder. While this was doing I found they were 
holding a council, and seemed very much agitated ; at 
length, to my no little surprise I found myself surrounded, 
and was quickly disarmed, and at the same instant was 
informed that unless I would agree to one proposal, they 
would never let me go out of the nation. After being 
so cruelly treated, what heart could endure their hellish 
provocations, and thus tormenting one or two who had 
fallen into their power ; I quickly demanded of them to 
pronounce the proposal. They told me all strife was 
useless, and that the proposal was to have a turtle's egg 
placed on my head, and let my negro shoot it off at 
twenty yards distance. As my negro knew nothing of 
drawing a precise sight, I hesitated, and told, them I 
would reverse it, and shoot the t egg from the negro's 



KER'S TRAVELS. 129 

head. By this expedient I obtained my Uberty, together 
with that of my negro ; for, taking it for granted that I 
should kill him, they readily consented to my proposal. 
They tied Edom to a tree, and measured off twenty steps ; 
but thinking this not far enough, they measured ten more. 
From this distance I was directed to fire, all things being 
in readiness ; my enervated hands began to tremble, and 
I was uncertain jvhether I should accomplish my design 
or not. My negro requested me not^to be affected, and 
said that if I should be so unfortunate as to shoot too low, 
it would be a satisfaction to be put out of his miserable 
existence by me, rather than by those hideous monsters, 
who stood ready with dieir bows and arrows to despatch 
me, if I refused to comply. The tgg was about the size 
of a goose egg, but rather longer. Thus t^y^oor fellow 
stood at the distance of thirty paces from me, an object of 
savage barbarity. I once raised the instrument of death, 
but my hands trembled and I let it drop ; again, and again 
I raised it, in order to decide. The victim stood in . 
awful suspense, awaiting the crisis which should set him 
at liberty, or take him out of existence. At length, 
summoning up all my courage, I levelled my rifle with as 
much deliberation and exactness as possible, and as a 
wise providence would have it, cut the egg on the lower 
side, taking the skin off his poor scorched head. With 
an exultation which nothing but preservation from the 
worst of deaths could have excited, he cried out, God 
bless you master : and at the same time the natives stood 
speechless whh amazement, and seemed to feel sensible 
of their own cruelty towards one who had never done 
them an injury. 

My horse was brought me, with all my equipage, and 
I again mounted and set off towaids Mexico, not without 

17 



130 KER'S TRAVELS. 

having obtained a general description of their nation.. 
What most excited my astonishment was the extravagant 
size and great strength of the chief. All his people fear 
him, for being arbitrary in his laws, he would frequently 
put to death with his own hands, criminals who Averc 
falsely accused, without judge or jury. 



CHAP. X. 

Joy ofEdom at his escape from the savages — Salt springs- 
— BeneJ^fresulting to the United States from the man- 
ufacture of salt — iuthor kills a large snak e-^De scrip - 
tion of it — Violent storm — Tracks of Indians — Indian 
hunting camp — Author loses his rifle — Fruitless en- 
deavours to obtain it — Sets out to visit the Indian town^ 

My poor negro was overwhelmed with gratitude, at his 
unexpected liberation from a nation of such ferocious 
wretches ; indeed the fellow had taken such a liking 
to me, that he preferred death to a separation. We im- 
mediately commenced our journey,, and I had abundant 
cause to be thankful that nothing worse had happened. 
I had lost some few articles, but the bulk of my property 
was still safe. 

After pursuing our journey for about four miles, we 
came to an extensive prairie, covered with a whitish sub- 
stance ; upon a nearer examination I found it to be salt, 
and that there were three springs whose waters were as 
salt as any I had ever tasted. I judged that 10.000^ 



KER'S TRAVELS. 131 

bushels of salt might be made from these sprhigs in one 
^veek ; and when we consider the high price it bears at 
market, averaging from 90 to 100 cents per bushel, it 
would surely be an object of vast importance to the 
United States, and well \vorthy the attention of men of 
cnterprize, to engage in the manufacture of an article 
which is in such general demand. 

The maritime part of the United States will, undoubt- 
edly, procure their salt from the Islands, and other places 
from whence they have been in the habit of receiving it ; 
but a large proportion of our inland country, say two 
thirds of the United States, might be supplied from the 
interior, and that too with salt of a superior quality, and 
on more reasonable terms than it can be had elsewhere ; 
a capital of six or eight thousand dollars vmuld be suffi- 
cient, and the country is so abundant that it^umishes all 
the necessaries and many of tlie luxuries of life, almost 
spontaneously. 

We proceeded but slowly along, owing to the extreme 
^veakness of my negro, whose head, and many other 
parts of his body w^ere very sore and painful ; he however 
refused to lie by entirely. We encamped this night near 
a small M'ivulet which was plentifully surrpunded with 
thick long grass, which was very serviceable, not only as 
food for our horse, but as a pleasant bed ; the wild Beasts 
were not so troublesome as formerly, and we slept soundly 
until the shrill and pleasant notes of the birds awaked us 
from our slumber. We immediately ai'ose, and after 
taking a slight breakfast, again pursued our journey. 

We now entered a thick and almost impenetrable 
forest, and it ^vas with extreme difficulty we forced our 
w^ay through it ; this difficulty ^vas increased by the \'ast 
numcfers of reptiles, which were very troublesome. A 



132 KER'S TRAVELS. 

species of snake I had not before seen attracted my atten- 
tion, and caused me to take particular notice of it. It 
darted with rapidity from tree to tree, and seemed to be 
of an enormous size. I ordered Edom to walk behind 
the horse, and to carry my pistol and a long pole which I 
used as a spear, whilst I continued on the horse and 
M'atched the monster with my rifle, ready to bring him 
do^vn. In a few minutes he attempted to ascend a mag- 
nolia, whose trunk being clear of branches, I had a fair 
opportunity to shoot him. I fired, and brought him to 
the ground : my negro advanced, and perceiving him 
still alive, dispatched him with his spear. The ball en- 
tered his neck, and passed entirely through him. It was 
the largest snake I ever saw, measuring thirty -eight feet 
in length. |P)is snake is called by Mr. Pernaut the large 
spotted snake, very likely from the number of small spots 
on his body. I took the skin off and preserved it : it was 
of a dusky ^vhite colour, the back interspersed with twen- 
ty-four large pale irregular spots, and the other parts of 
the body with an infinite number of smaller ones ; the 
tail is of a dark colour, and the sides are variegated with 
different colours. The head is covered with small scales, 
and has a broad belt back of the eyes. It wants the large 
dog fangs, of course its bite is not poisonous. The 
tongue is fleshy and forked. Above the eyes, on each' 
side, the head rises high. The scales of this snake were 
all very small, roundish, and smooth : the tail does not 
exceed one eighth of its whole length. The Indians, who 
adore this monstrous animal, use the skin for clothes, on 
account of its smoothness and beauty : I saw several of 
them among the Indians, who assured me they were held 
in great veneration. The flesh of this snake is eaten by 
the natives, who esteem it good food. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 133 

The following is the manner in which this animal pro- 
cures its food : When impelled by liunger, it frequents 
caves and thickets, from which places it suddenly darts 
upon travellers, beasts, &c. When it chooses a tree for 
its watching place, it supports itself by winding its tail 
around the trunk, or a branch, and darts with rapidity up- 
on tigers, wolves, and any animal that comes within its 
reach. When it lays hold of animals, especially any of 
the larger kinds, it twists itself several times around their 
body, and by the vast force of its muscles bruises and 
breaks all their bones. 

The manner in which it prepares its prey for eating is 
truly singular, and deserves to be inentioned : I had an 
opportunity to notice it while on a hunting party, some 
time after this, ^vith the Indians. It first lays it under 
the shade of somxe tree which it can ascend in case of dan- 
ger ; it then begins by licking it all over, its tongue being 
furnished with a peculiar kind of saliva common to these 
snakes ; this it does for the purpose of facilitating deglu- 
tition : if it be a stag or any other large animal, it begins 
by sucking the feet, and gradually sucks in the body, and 
last of all the head. When the animal happens to have 
large horns, the natives assert that they have been known 
to go about a long time with the horns sticking out of 
their mouth, which, as the animal putrifies, fall off. 

After this animal has swallowed a stag or a tiger, it is 
unable to move for some days ; and the natives, being well 
acquainted with this circumstance, always take this op- 
portunity of destroying it, for it is so very formidable that 
they dare not attack it at any other time. When irritated, 
it makes a loud hissing noise. It is said to cover itself 
over with leaves, in order to conceal itself from other ani- 
mals, that it may the more easily lay hold of them. The 



134 KER'S TRAVELS- 

skin which I took, on my return I presented to Dr. Dc 
Fkidcar, ^^'ho was much pleased to add it to his already 
extensive collection of natural curiosities. 

After travelling about twelve miles through tliis thick 
and almost impenetrable forest, we arrived where it be- 
came more clear, and were enabled to make greater pro- 
gress. We encamped by the side of a spring, after hav- 
ing travelled eighteen miles. 

The next mori:«ng the weather appeared unsettled, and 
as my water kegs wanted repairing, and some other things 
of importance Avere to be settled, I tliought it best to re- 
main Avhere we were. I sent Edom to collect some 
wood, while I arranged my papers, and secured such 
things as were of importance, in case I should be attacked. 
I had hitherto steered a southwest course, as nearly as 
possible, but now resolved to steer more westerly, as I 
had understood there a\ ere two tribes of Indians who were 
friendly, one of which in their manners and dialect resem- 
bled in some manner the ancient Welch. As this was a 
subject Avhich agitated the learned, I felt anxious to ascer- 
t^n the truth of it, and make such discoveries as were. in 
my power. 

About noon it bagan to rain most violently, accompa- 
nied with thunder and lightning. My negro iiDW re- 
turned, bringing such wood as was necessary, and we 
immediately set about securing our things from the 
storm ; a small gi'ove of trees was selected, and our 
awning was accordingly spread, aftbrding us a safe shelter 
from the rain. Night now set in, and it rained with as 
much fury as at first ; the lightning gleamed with such 
brilliancy around as enabled us to see the least article as 
clear as at noonda}'. The roar of the beasts Avas truly 
terrible ; whilst the thunder rolled m awful majesty, and 



KER^S TRAVELS. 135 

shook the surrounding hills. My mind was settled and 
tranquil, and I viewed the surrounding scenery with calm- 
ness ; I felt that I was entirely dependent on the power of 
a Being who liad declared that he loved mercy, and 
would protect the wandering fugitive ; I relied with im- 
plicit confidence on his word, and slept composedly 
during tlie latter part of the night. 

March 12. In the morning I awoke ; all nature 
seemed refreshed, the birds sung with sweetest melody, 
the grove appeared dressed in a more lively green, and I 
could not help hfting my heart in thankfulness to Him 
who gives rain, seedtime, and harvest, and^/ho feeds 
the birds of the air and the beasts of tlieTi^. After 
fmding my horse, who had strayed some distance from 
the tent, we packed up and proceeded on our journey. 

We had travelled about six miles, when we came to 
an opening. I plainly perceived there had been some 
one recently there, and felt perplexed, for, according to 
my information, we were more than forty miles from any 
Indians. If they were of those two tribes which had been 
described to me, I had nothing to fear ; but if, on the 
otlier liand, they were hostile Indians, and should treat us 
in tne manner we were last, I thought it would be better 
for us to avoid them. Another thing, I did not wish to 
be detained, as the season was fast approaching when it 
would be highly improper to travel, owing to the extreme 
heat. I however proceeded with caution, and found the 
country become more clear, and die travelling excellent ; 
about noon I reached an extensive prairie, about fifteen 
miles in extent, on which was the largest herd of buffalo 
I ever saw ; I judge there was fifteen hundred all gi'azing 
in one held, where there was room for as many more. I 
attempted to get near, but found it impossible, as they 



13G KER'S TRAVELS. 

haye sentinels placed out, who on the least appearance of 
danger give the alarm, and they all fly ofF with incredible 
speed. 

These prairies, which I have had occasion to mention 
several times, are natural meadows which abound in this 
country, and are generally covered with a rich luxuriant 
grass, which is sometimes three or four feet in height ; 
the land is extremely rich and fertile, and capable of pro- 
ducing any thing. These prairies feed innumerable herds 
of buffalo, who roam without restraint, and on the least 
appearance of danger fly off for the mountains : their speed 
is very great, it being impossible for the swiftest horse to 
overtake <wem. 

After striking off from this prairie and pursuing my 
route along the margin of the wood, I found a large quan- 
tity of marine shells, which were incorporated with the 
soil of the bank : the soil was a blue clay, intermixed 
with small stones. I preserved a number of the shells, 
as there was no water near, nor any appearance of there 
having been any. 

About dark we encamped by the side of a small stream, 
whose borders were clothed with grass, and afforded 
good grazing for our horse. Here had recently been fires, 
and I suspected we were not far from the haunts of In- 
dians. Accordingly I prepared myself, cleaned my rifle 
and pistol, cast some balls, and took out a fresh supply 
of ammunition. We had in the course of the day killed 
a small animal resembling a ground hog, oh which we 
supped, and found it very good meat. 

Towards morning it grew cold and unpleasant, but 
when the sun arose it became mild. After breakfasting on 
the remains of the animal we killed the day before, ^\ e 
proceeded on our journey. We had not travelled many 



KER'S TRAVELS. 137 

miles when we struck an Indian path, and I Avas certain 
from other appearances tliat wc were not far from a set- 
tlement ; I accordingly slackened my pa^e, in order to have 
an opportunity of observing the different paths, and of be- 
ing prepared for the approach of the natives. About t\vo 
miles we ascended a hill, and I plainly perceived about 
twenty wigwams ; in a few minutes more, an Indian, \\ ho 
had been after wood, came close alongside, without at 
first perceiving me ; the mstant he discovered me he 
dropped his wood, and fled with precipitation. I felt 
chagrined to see him make off so fast, and endeavoured 
by every means in my power to induce him to come 
back, but in vain ; he was out of sight in an Mstant. I 
had not the least doubt he would make such a report to 
his nation as would alarm their fears, and cause them to 
receive us with coldness ; nor was I much mistaken, for 
on coming within about a quarter of a mile of the village, 
I saw them drawn up in battle Jirray, armed with bows, 
arrows, clubs, and slings. 

I now dismounted from my horse, and advanced alone, 
telling Edom to remain behind, and in case he sa^v any 
violence offered to me, to come up and endeavour to 
assist me. I had my rifle in my hand, but in such a 
manner as could not excite their fears ; when I came witli- 
in about an hundred yards of them, I stopped, held out 
my hand, and addressed them in the Spanish language ; 
at this they all seemed to confer one with another, and 
soon one of them, whom I judged from his appearance 
Avas the chief, advanced a few steps and laid down his 
club and arrows, beckoning me towards him. I put 
down my rifle and immediately advanced towards him, 
but before I had time to speak one word, three or four 

of them rushed forward and seized mv piece. I now ad- - 

18 



138 KER'S TRAVELS. 

dressed myself to the chief, teUing him from whence I 
came, and demanding my gun, which I told him was all 
I had to procure victuals with. He seemed to pay no 
attention to what I said, but laughed immoderately, often 
patting me on the cheek, and showing signs of great 
satisfaction. 

During this time, Edom, who had been an unobserved 
spectator of the scene, advanced with an intention of af- 
fording me assistance if possible, when a sudden scream 
from the squaws proved that he was noticed. All was 
now confusion ; the chief forcibly drew me in the rear of 
the Indians, w^ho had resumed their arms, and were wait- 
ing the approach of my negro. Edom, finding himself 
discovered, advanced with firmness, and coming in front 
of the Indians, took off his cap, and after making a low 
bow, began dancing a Guinea dance. I felt alarmed, and 
feared it would cause them to commit some violence : I 
was however mistaken ; they all fell a laughing, and tlie 
old chief advanced and took liim by the hand, seeming ta 
be highly pleased with him. 

I now went up to the chief, and requested him to give 
me my gun : he told me it was out of his power, he be- 
ing not the head of the tribe, and that I must accompany 
him to their town, where the head chief was, who would 
return it, if it could be found : this was what I was afraid 
of, that the Indian who had my gun would absent himself, 
and that by this means I should lose it. I found it impossi- 
ble to obtain it by any other means, and complied. The 
old man now conducted me to his wigwam, where I found 
his wife and two of his daughters : he informed me that 
they were on a hunting party, and should return the next 
day. Edom was allowed to come and wait upon me, and 
he very much attracted tlie attention of tlie chief's daugh- 



KER'S TRAVELS. 139 

tcrs, who indulged their curiosity by examining him 
very particularly ; and the exclamation Tee^ tee, which fell 
from both of them, proved that they were well pleased 
with him. 

During the evening we were amused with dancing, 
which lasted till a late hour, and was joined in by both 
sexes. The music was performed on a simple instrument, 
made of cane, having a hole in the middle, into which the 
musician blew, and produced not a disagreeable sound. 



CHAP. XL 

The author arrives at the town of the Yorotees — Friend- 
ly reception — Restoration of my rifle — Author request- 
ed to afford assistance in a war — Reasoris for so doing 
— Preparations — Weapons of the Yorotees — War coun- 
cil — War song — Dance — Commence our journey. 

In. the morning the chief awaked me, and the natives 
'proceeded to collect their materials for moving towards 
the town. About noon wc started, and travelled through 
a fertile country, abounding in venerable trees, which 
reared their heads in majestic grandeur to the skies. 
Small rivulets interspersed the pleasant vallies, and at once 
gave beauty and animation to the scene. We travelled 
about 'fifteen miles, when Ave came to a tliick sAvamp, 
through which we found an Indian path that led us about 
half a mile ; we then opened upon an extensive plain, and 
the appearance of tlie to^vn caused a general joy in our 



140 KEll'S TitAVEl.S. 

little gi'oiip, who had all been out some time, and ^vere in 
^v.int of many necessary articles. 

On onr arrival, the chief, \vith all tlie women and others 
of the tribe, came out to meet us, and seemed much 
pleased at the return of their friends. I was presented to 
the chief, who received me with kindness, and spake a 
few >vords to me ; but finding I did not understand him, 
he conversed w^ith me by signs, and seemed highly pleas- 
ed ^vith the answers I gave him respecting the countries 
I had passed through, the manners of the people, &c. 
He told me he had been in nineteen battles ; that he once 
\vent a great way off' to fight the whites, but tlie rain pre 
vented him from giving them battle. He showed mc 
nineteen scars, and told me he had two sons killed in n war 
Avith a great nation in the west. 

I now stated to the chief the loss I had sustained of 
my gun, and rc(}uestcd him to cause it to be returned to 
mc. He immediately replied, that if any of his people 
liad done so tlioy should be punished, and directed mc 
to follow him. When we came to the square, (a large 
space found in the ceiUre of almost iill Indian towns,) I 
was directed to stand still : he then ordered some of the 
inferior chiefs who attended him to go and collect the 
men. In a few minutes the sound of shells >vas heard in 
ever}^ quarter. I began to grow alarmed for my safet}% 
and the old man, perceiving me to iook grave, demanded 
the reason, assuring me I had nothing to fear, as this was 
a customary thing when they assembled a council. 

In a few minutes all the natives of the village were as- 
sembled, and arranged in two rows. The chief then ad- 
vanced into the middle of them, and spoke for some time 
with a loud and commanding Voice ; at the end of ever\ 
sentence he would stani)) his foot \\ith violence upon the 



KER\S TRAVELS. 141 

♦ground. When he had finished speaking, a profound si- 
lence reigned throughout the assembly, till at length one 
;idvanced and spake a few words to the chief, who an- 
swered him with mildness ; he went away, and not a syl- 
lable was spoken during his absence, which was, as 
near as I could judge, about twenty minutes. At last he 
returned, bearing in his hand my gun, which had been 
taken to pieces. I felt concerned lest he had broken it^ 
]3Ut I soon saw that it had been taken apart by slipping off 
the iron rings ; he advanced to the chief and laid the gun 
at his feet. The old n/annow looked at him with stern- 
ness, and after addressing him for about twenty minutes, 
directed two or three to bind him. I now understood he 
was to be punished, and advancing to the chief, I kneeled, 
and implored him by signs to forgive the offender. He 
seemed surprised, and was ready to refuse me ; but 1 
entreated with earnestness, and he at length consented to 
pardon him. The moment his pardon was pronounced, 
the natives all set up a shout, and came towards me, tak-^ 
ing my hand, and expressing signs of joy and tliankful- 
ness, assuring me I should be among them as a brother, 
so long as I, thought proper to stay. 

Upon receiving my rifle, I made the old man a present 
of some pictures I had drawn, representing a horse, In- 
dians, hogs, &c. together with a large string of beads, and 
a small belt, with which he seemed highly pleased ; he in 
return gave me a pair of mockasins, curiously trimmed 
with wampum. 

The chief informed me that they were going to war 
^vith a neighbouring nation, which was considered very 
powerful, and he wished very miich to ask of me a par- 
ticular favour, which, if I would grant, would enable them 
■■> b'-»t their enemies ; it was no other than tlvii T sbonlfl 



142 KER'S TRAVELS. 

let Edom go and carry my musket, which would strike 
terror and dismay into the hearts of their enemies. I im- 
mediately told the chief, that not only my black man> 
but myself also would go witli them, and would do all in 
our power to relieve them from their difficulties ; at this 
they were overjoyed, and endeavoured to express their 
gratitude by a thousand different jestures. 

They immediately set about preparing for their intended 
campaign. I found them to be about two thousand 
strong, all of them armed with bows and arrows, spears 
and slings. The arrows WTre about six feet in length, 
pointed at the head with bone, and made very smooth; 
they were dipped in a poisonous kind of liquor, which 
they said no remedy among them could remove. Their 
spears were twelve feet lo]ig, made of ash, straight, and 
very highly polished ; these they tlirew to an astonishing 
distance, and rarely ever missed their object. Their 
slings were made of the fibres of the sycamore tree 
twisted, with ^vhich they would send stones the distance 
of two hundred yards, and with surprising swiftness. On 
the whole, wlxen they are equipped their appearance is far 
from being contemptible. 

I now cleaned my rifle and pistol, set Edom to cast 
some balls, and made other prepai'ations for the ensuing 
campaign. They intended starting the next new moon, 
which would be in tliree days. My principal object in 
taking this tour with the Indians, was to have a view of 
the country, and ascertain whether there were any mines 
or other valuables. 

On tlie evening of the day preceding their march, all 
tlie chiefs assembled in. the square where they were ac- 
customed to do business ; they seated themselves in a 
circle round a moimd of earth nearly in the centre of the 



KER'S TRAVELS. 143 

*iquare, and Avere soon followed by all the young men and 
t\'omen in the village, who took their seats at a respectful 
distance from the old men ; next came the boys and girls, 
from twelve to eight years old, and lastly tlie old women, 
who ranged themselves in an exact circle on the outside. 

The old chief arose and harangued them for some time, 
(as 1 afterwards understood,) on the injuries and aggres- 
sions which they had received from their enemies, whc 
had destroyed their hunting, waylaid their women and 
children, and called them cowards. He was succeeded 
by the next oldest, who recounted the bravery of their 
fathers, and the many battles they had won from those 
with whom they were going to contend ; then telling 
them if thev were now defeated, when the white man was 
with them, it would be injurious to their country and a 
disgrace to themselves, he exhorted tliem to fight val- 
iantly. This chief was succeeded by several others, who 
endeavoured by their eloquence to inspire their young 
men with courage. 

After tliis they all rose, and sang their war song in a 
loud tone of voice ; it was quick, and in many parts not 
unmusical, and they beat exact time with their feet and 
hands. 

They now all formed themselves into a sti'aight line^ 
the old men at the head. After marching twice round 
the square, the old men and women filed off" for the chief's 
w^igwam, but the young ones continued on to the centre 
of the square. Musical instruments were now produced, 
and preparations made for dancing. It commenced by a 
young man and woman leading off", who danced for some 
time, and were then joined by others. Their dancing 
w^as not graceful, nor did it display any ingenuity ; it con- 
sisted in moving the foot first backward and forward, and 



144 KER'S TRAVELS. 

then jumping up and down, with a harsh noise made by 
the clapping of their hands. 

The dance lasted for some time, when the young men 
disappeared ; they soon returned, habited in their war 
dress, and painted most hideously. On their appearance 
the girls retired, and left them in possession of the ground. 
They commenced their ceremonies by singing and hide- 
ous jestures, which lasted near an hour ; they then as- 
sembled in a circle, and commenced dancing with the 
most wild and savage manner I ever saw. I understood 
this was their war dance, and was always performed be- 
fore they gave an enemy battle ; it continued till a late 
hour, when they separated for the night. 

In the morning early, they all assembled for the pur- 
pose of invoking their gods, which being done, and three 
hogs being offered by way of sacrifice, we departed. 
After a tedious march, we encamped for the night with- 
in about seven miles of our enemies. 



KER^S TRAVELS. U5 



CHAP. XII. 

Success of the Indian enterprise — Peace concluded— 
Description of the mantier in which they conclude a 
treaty — Some account of this nation — curious manner 
of counting— Author leaves the Yorotees — Description 
of them — Striking similarity between many of their 
religious ceremonies and those of the ancient Jews — 
Comparison of ancient prophecies in relation to the In* 
dians — General observations. 

On the 12th of May we a^voke early, and started on our 
expedition. The Indians were now very cautious in their 
proceedings, advancing but slowly, and I had an oppor- 
tunity to view the country, which abounded in all kinds 
of wild fruits and flowers, with lofty trees whose heads 
were covered with perpetual verdure. The soil appeared 
to . be a black loam intermixed with a reddish kind of 
earth, and it is certainly the richest I ever saw. 
- About noon some of our scouting parties returned, 
bringing information that the enemy were drawn up in 
battle array about half a mile distant. At this informa- 
tion our party halted, and a council of war was held. I 
now advanced, and beckoning with my hand that I wish- 
ed to be heard, they immediately took me 'to the centre of 
the circle, and listened with profound attention. I told 
them I wanted sixty of their bravest warriors to accom- 
pany me, and that with these I would beat their enemies. 
They seemed to doubt whether that was possible, as there 
^v•ere upwards of fifteen hundred of their enemies. I as- 
sured them that it was possible, and that they had nothing 
to fear as to the result. 

19 



146 KER'S TRAVELS. 

The sixty wamors were soon selected, and were the 
stoutest and bravest in the whole tribe : besides their 
arms, they had a kind of shield which I had not before 
noticed ; it consisted of buffalo skin cut in a circular 
form, eight or ten pieces of which, being pounded hard, 
were fastened together with thongs : it was calculated to 
resist the force of an arrow, and was a considerable de- 
fence to them in time of battle. I directed Edom to take 
the pistol, with balls, &c. whilst I carried the rifle, which 
was loaded with a brace of balls. An old chief, who knew 
where the enemy were encamped, undertook to conduct 
us to them. I told the warriors that when I gave the 
signal, they must advance and give their enemies battle, 
and when they were all drawn out, I would fire and rout 
them ; to this they consented. 

In about an hour we were nearly up with the encamp- 
ment of the enemy, and could hear them singing and 
dancing ; and in a few minutes we heard a yell, by which 
w^e knew we were discovered. We now advanced briskly 
to the contest, and on coming to a hollow I placed Edom 
in it, telling him to take a favourable opportunity and 
sally out among them. A little further on, I espied the 
natives advancing in order of battle : I now halted, and 
placing myself behind a tree, told the Indians to advance, 
and after the first discharge of arrows to retreat near to 
the tree where I stood. I saw it would be more advan- 
tageous for Edom to join me, and therefore beckoned for 
him to come up. In a few minutes I heard the yell of 
both parties, and saw the arrows flying in the air. Our 
party jio sooner dischai'ged their arrows thari they retreat- 
ed near to the tree where I stood, pursued by their ene- 
mies. Seeing a large party advancing headed by a man 
I judged to be their chief, I singled him out, fired, and 



KER'S TRAVELS. 147 

brought him to the ground. I now took my pistol and 
iired again, when another fell. This created consternation 
and amazement among them : they lieard a noise, saw 
their chief fall, but could not see any appearance of what 
hurt him. I soon had loaded my piece, and our Indians 
being anxious to advance, I put myself at their head. 
We charged with quickness, and on coming within fifty 
yards of the enemy, I levelled and trought two of them 
to the ground : at the same time the Indians rushed for- 
wards with horrid yells, and their enemies fled on all sides. 
They pursued them for some time, and then returned and 
fell to plundering their camp, and setting fire to their wig- 
wams. The scalp of the chief was presented to me, but 
I refused to take it, telling them it was not good. 

The Indians found large quantities of plunder, which 
detained them till a late hour to collect ; we then all set 
out for our encampment. When we aiTived within 
about half a mile, they set up a loud and tremendous 
noise, and were in a short time ans^vered by all those 
who were w^aiting for us ; it consisted in a kind of song 
which they clianted with much vehemence, reciting the 
praises of the warriors vv'ho had fallen in battle, their own 
valour, and the many dangers they had inciuTed. 

When w^e returned to the village we were received 
with great demonstrations of joy by all the women, who 
came out to meet us, dancing and singing. I was vtry 
much cai'essed by the old chief's daughters, wlio seemed 
highly pleased at some presents I had made them of beads, 
and were continually crying Tee, tee, with much satis- 
faction. 

When we arrived I was conducted to the chief, who 
received me with nmch affection, calling me his Yocatee, 
9r brother ; he told me their enemies would not attempt 



148 KEll'S TRAVEI.S. 

to fight them any more, and that they xvould sue lor 
peace in a few days. He was not mistaken, for on the 
next day an Indian chief from this tribe was brought in, 
who said that it was the wish of the nation to have peace ; 
that they had never wished to go to war, but for the chief 
who was now dead, who had an enmity against them for 
killing his father. The old man then told him, that on 
the morrow he would assemble all the chiefs, and that 
they must have four of theirs, to agree on terms ; he then 
departed. 

On the next morning they all assembled round a large 
fire, nearly in the same order they did when they set out 
for war, except that the chiefs from the other tribe were 
placed in the middle. They smoked the pipe of peace, 
and each chief made a short speech, in which he declared 
in the name of his nation he had no desire to go to ^\'ar ; 
this being done, they all fell to dancing, which lasted for a 
considerable time. 

When they had finished dancing, they went to feasting 
on a buffalo which had been killed and roasted for the oc- 
casion. After they had sufl^iciently satisfied their hunger, 
they arose and once more smoked the pipe of peace, all 
standing and looking towai'ds the west ;' after this they 
shook hands and parted. Thus was a war concluded 
which thi'eatened the loss of hundreds in the contest, with 
the loss of only fourteen or fifteen, and secured to me the 
gratitude and esteem of the nation. 

The nation which I have just had occasion to men- 
tion, according to the information I have received from 
the old man, contains in all about ^\€^ thousand souls. 
They are situated about eighty miles from the Red river, 
about south southwest, on a lake called by the natives 
Testzapotecas ; their country is fertile, abounding in 



KER'S TRAVELS. 149 

^ood pastures, which feed immense herds of buffalo and 
deer ; some antelopes are likewise to be found in the 
country, the skins of which are seen in plenty among the 
natives. They are a warlike people, and fond of plun- 
der, making frequent incursions upon the neighbouring 
tribes ; they are stout, robust, and well made, being all 
of them near six feet in height. 

Their marriage ceremonies are somewhat singular, and 
deserve to be related. When a young man is desirous of 
obtaining a wife, he goes out, kills a buffalo, and then 
proceeds to the hut of his sweetheart ; he now sets up a 
lamentable howl, which he continues for some time ; at 
last the damsel appears with a large stick, with which she 
beats him for some time, he standing entirely still ; when 
she is tired she desists, and he goes his way. This is 
continued for some time, and if the lover appears not to 
flinch from the beating, she at last lays down the stick, 
and sets herself at his feet ; the old people then come out 
and invite him into the hut, which he for some time re- 
fuses, but at length consents. On the next day the mar- 
riage is solemnized, and he carries her to his hut. 

I now thought of proceeding on my journey, and ac- 
quainted the chief with my intention, telling him I must 
proceed. He seemed very loth to have me leave them', 
and pressed me to stay a little longer : I told him it was 
impossible. I found we should have to return nearly to 
the place where we first met the Indians, before we should 
be enabled to proceed on our journey. I directed Edom 
to put every thing in readiness, that we mi^ht depart on 
the next day : he was much joyed at this, for however 
well treated by the Indians, he did not like to be among 
them. 

Early in the morning we were both mounted; having 



150 KER'S TRAVELS. 

liad the good luck to procure another horse : akhough 
tliey Avere a cry scarce, and held in high estimation by the 
natives, yet they spared me one in consideration of my 
services to them. We were accompanied by tlie old 
chief and several of the natives, who seemed sorry at our 
departure. When we came neai' to the place where they 
must leave me, tliey all stopped, took me by the hand, 
and shook it affectionately. They then commenced 
singing in a low and plaintive tone, ^^^hich lasted for some 
time ; the old man then advanced, threw a string of wam- 
pum around my neck, embraced me, and we piirted. 

I was much affected by this attention on the part of 
the savages ; it was sincere ; they felt what they express- 
ed ; and I could not help comparing it with the conduct 
of many of those who call themselves civilized, and who, 
while professing sentiments of esteem and regard, are at- 
tempting to do a serious injury. 

I proceeded on my way, steering as nearly as possible 
a southwest by a westerly course, in order to strike anoth- 
er tribe of Indians, from whom I expected to collect some 
considerable information relative to that part of tlie coun- 
try. We proceeded without meeting with any tiling 
worthy of notice until night, ^vhen we encamped, having 
come eighteen miles. 

The Indians which we had just left, are called the Yo- 
rotees. They are small in stature, but well built, and 
their women handsome. Their clothing is made of the 
skins of beasts, or of feathers sewed togetlier : it consists 
of two pieces, one of which reaches from the waist to the 
knees, and the other is tlirown loosely over the shoulders. 
Their huts are simple in their construction, being four 
poles set in the eartli, which are tied at the top and coverr 
ed with the lea>es or bark of trees. Their household 



KER'S TRAVELS. 151 

furniture consists of a few gourds, some leaves, and a 
stick, with which they strike fire. In their rchgious cere- 
monies they are very siiperstitious, hkc all other nations 
who are if^norant of revelation. They have three gods, 
tlic principal of which is called Tctcwee ; to him they 
offer sacrifices of hogs, and the first fruits of the season. 

In travelling through difiercnt tribes of Indians, I have 
liad opportunity to notice many singularities in their reli- 
gious worship, ^vhich approach near to that of the an- 
cient Jewish religion : singular as* this may appear, it is a 
fact which requires investigation, and is highly deserving 
the attention of the learned. In this particular tribe I ob- 
served ihany strong traits of Judaism ; they circumcise 
their children ; in their religious ordinances they havo 
their high-priest, and in a small house is kept an ark, 
which it is death for any one to touch but the high-priest. 
They have likewise tliree towns which are considered 
sacred, and if any one kills another and flees to these pla- 
ces of refuge, he is safe and none dare disturb him. 
They have also, like the Jews, three principal festivals ; 
one is after their hunting is over, when they all assemble, 
bringing with them their old stock which has remained 
over the season, and laying it in a pile, when it is set fire 
to and consumed ; they now observe a fast of three days, 
denying every indulgence, and forgiving all their ene- 
mies. The next day after the fast is closed, the high • 
priest lights a fire by rubbing dry wood together, from 
which every dwelling is supplied with the sacred flame- 
The scene now changes ; hilarity and mirth reign ; new 
fruits and meats are brought forward, and three days are 
spent in dancing and amusement. 

These circumstances are no less interesting than true, 
■*nd deserve the serious consideration of the curious. In 



-^ 



152 KER'S TRAVELS. 

many of the prophecies mentioned in the Old and New 
Testaments, respecting the Jews, there is a striking simi- 
larity. It was said to the Israelites, " And they that are 
left of you shall pine away in their iniquity in your ene- 
mies' lands ; the land of your enemies shall eat you up.'* 
Lev'it, chap. xxvi. And it was very similar with the 
Indians ; the small number of Europeans who first visited 
this country, were, in comparison of the immense popu- 
lation, but as a grain of sand ; yet they succeeded in 
forcing their way in spite of all opposition, and though 
the natives were sturdy warriors, nothing but their bones 
are now left to tell to the world that they once existed. 
It was also observed in regard to the Israelites, that they 
should be offered for sale, and few or none should buy 
them, Deut, ch. xxviii. ; and in the different wars of die 
state of Massachusetts, the Indians were sent in great 
numbers up tlie Mediterranean, (according to Mr. Hutch- 
inson,) and found few or no purchasers. 
, The resemblance of many words in their language, is 
thought by Dr. Edwards to be sufficient to identify the 
people. Whether this similarity exists with regard to 
this nation, I caimot say, as I do not understand the lan- 
guage. 

The traditions of this tribe relative to events of the 
eastern continent, and of remote antiquity, are curious, 
and deserving attention. They have traditions which 
evidently refer to the creation, the fall of man, the flood, 
the tower of Babel, and the longevity of antediluvian ages. 
They say that in ancient times, their ancestors lived till 
their feet were worn out with walking, and their throats 
with eating. 

From these observations it may be seen there is a 
nearer affinity between the nations of the new continent 



KER'S TRAVELS. 153 

and the old than has been generally immagined ; and that 
the speculations of different writers relative to the peopling 
of our continent, and their conjectures that it 'was accom- 
plished in part by the way of Asia, is not ^vithout foun- 
dation. 

I shall conclude my observations on this people in the 
language of Dr. Mather Megapolensis, a Dutch mission- 
ary, who returned to Europe and published his travels 
some time ago. 

" How far some of these circumstances are common to 
all nations who approximate to the same state of society, 
or how far they may be characteristic of the same people, 
I presume not to offer an opinion ; but leave it to those 
who have more learning and more time for investigating 
it than myself." 



CHAP. xni. 

Author pursues his journey — Encounters a bear — Ex- 
treme tenacity of life in this animal — Reasons why the 
author wishes to meet with the natives — Observations 
on the decline of the Spanish monarchy — Author kills 
an elk — Description of it, 

I PURSUED my journey the next morning without meet- 
ing any obstructions, and about seven o'clock we stopped 
to breakfast on a large tortoise my negro had caught in 
the neighbourhood of a pond. After proceeding on our 
journey for about four miles, we came to a cane brake, 
^vhich extended from a sinall rivulet to the margin of a 

20 



154 KER'S TRAVELS. 

wood. I here perceived a number of ducks, one of 
"vvhich I shot, and found it very good meat, although of a 
fishy taste. 

We travelled this day about twenty miles, and encamp- 
ed for the night. The scene around was truly interesting : 
the last rays of the setting sun shone upon the tops of the 
surrounding mountains and trees ; the twilight clad all 
things in a livery of gray ; the moon rose with clouded 
majesty, and threw over the darksome scene her silver 
mantle. I contemplated the surrounding objects with awe 
and admiration. All was silent as the hour of death, for 
beasts and birds had retired to their grassy couch or to 
their nests. I felt much depressed in spirits, as I was 
about entering among a tribe of savages with whose char- 
acter, customs, and language, I was wholly unacquainted, 
and was altogether uncertain what reception I should 
meet with from them, which perhaps would be instant 
death : but I committed myself to the protection of that 
omnipotent Being who had hitherto directed all my steps ; 
who had been my guide by day and guard by night, and 
Avithout whose permission the fierce ihabitant of the 
wood, and all the savage bands, cannot harm ; I felt that 
I was under His sole protection. Having no fi*iend to 
converse with, or cheer the melancholy hour, my heart 
sunk within me as my mind reverted to past scenes ; the 
recollection of the friends I had left, the almost trackless 
space that separated me from all my heart held dear,**^with 
a thousand tender reflections, crowded upon my mind, till 
at length, overpowered with flitigue, I fell asleep, having 
the cold earth for my bed, and the canopy of heaven for 
my covering. 

, I awoke in the morning refreshed ; all nature seemed 
to smile around me. Cheering indeed to the lonely 



KER'S TRAVELS, 155 

traveller, are the first rays in the east ; yet how much 
more glorious and resplendent does it appear, when, risen 
above the liorizon, the sun comes to full view, to cheer 
all nature with his beams ; the bloom of spring pre- 
sents itself on every side, and in the enjoyment of its 
fragrance are felt new delights, while every sorrowful 
idea gradually retires from the bosom. 

We arose and pursued our journey ; we had not trav- 
elled over four miles, when Edom stopped and exclaimed. 
See there, master. I looked, and saw one of the largest 
bears my eyes ever beheld ; he seemed to be of a kind I 
had not before seen, and kept his eyes constantly fixed 
on me ; I stopped and levelled my gun, which was 
loaded with ball. The moment I fired he sprang towards 
me, and I had but just time to get into a tree, when he 
was at my horse's feet ; he seemed regardless- of him, 
and immediately prepared to ascend the tree. My situa- 
tion was truly dangerous ; fortunately I had my ammuni- 
tion with me, and I set about loading my gun. The 
bear, although severely wounded, Avas determined to as- 
cend the tree, and I had every thing to fear ; he had not 
seen Edom, who now advanced and levelled at him with 
his pistol ; the ball entered his lungs, but so tenacious 
was he of life that he now seemed possessed of more 
strength than ever, and seemed determined to ascend the 
tree. My rifle being loaded, I levelled and shot him 
through the head ; he fell to the ground, bellowing and 
rolling about, and when I descended from the tree he 
had breathed his last. 

This was the largest bear I ever saw, measuring 
twelve feet without his tail; I could not tell how 
much he weighed, but we could not lift him from the 
gi'ound. He was very fat, and we made a good supper 



156 KEU'S TRAVELS. 

off of him, and kept the remainder for the time of need. 
We proceeded on our journey, and encamped for the 
night about ten miles distant from where I killed the bear, 
as it took us some time to skin him, and secure that part 
of his meat which would be of service to us. 

The next morning the sky was overcast, and I dreaded 
a storm ; I nevertheless pursued my journey, as I was 
anxious to arrive among those tribes where I had under- 
stood there was something which would amply compen- 
sate me for all my difficulties, toils, and dangers. I had 
travelled about two thousand miles, through an almost 
impassable wilderness, and I felt anxious to obtain some- 
thing which would compensate me for all my sufferings. 

This country abounds in mines and other natural 
riches, and is abundantly furnished with every thing 
which could give peace and plenty to the heart of man, 
arftl that too without any of his labour. I cannot but ac- 
knowledge, however, that an influx of wealth cannot 
make a people happy ; and that agriculture is better cal- 
culated for it than any other employment which we know 
of. Spain, by the immense sums which it has dra^vn 
from the mines of Potosi, has been enabled to deluge her 
country with wealth, without however affording it even 
the shadow of happiness. She has become effeminate ; 
agriculture and the fine arts arc neglected. Many of her 
kings thought themselves, inexhaustible in wealth, and 
^vaged long and bloody wars against the different Euro- 
pean nations ; the consequence has been, that she is 
drained of her men and money ; her flourishing manu* 
factures have fallen into decay ; her fleets, which have 
been the terror of Europe, are all destroyed ; her exten- 
sive foreign commerce is lost ; the trade between differ- 
ent parts of her own dominions interrupted, and the ships 



KER'S TRAVELS. 157 

employed in caiTying it on, taken and plundc red by ene- 
mies she once despised. 

Such is the present degi'aded state of a country \vhich 
once furnished the best fleet in Europe ; and whose de- 
cUne has been hastened by the immense sums she has 
drawn from the new world. 

Why then, it may be asked, was I anxious to procurq 
that which had been th'e source of so many misfortunes 
to flourishing nations ? I answer, because, widi the ma- 
jority of mankind, I thought that, if used with propriety, 
it coukl be made the source of happiness, and become a 
real blessing to mankind; as the right application of 
riches cannot but ensure to the possessor the happiness of 
an approving conscience. 

About twelve o'clock it cleared away, and the sun 
shone with brilliancy. The season had now become 
mild and serene, and I wa^ rapidly advancing into that 
climate which breathes perpetual spring ; the birds sang 
with the sweetest melody, the trees yielded a rich per- 
fume, and scattered their fragrance over a thousand 
hills. Having, travelled about twenty-five miles, w^e en- 
camped for the night- 

In the morning we were much put to it for the Avant of 
provision, this article having become scarce within a few 
days. We had proceeded about five miles when we 
opened- upon a rich meadow, and perceived a small herd 
of elk grazing, who had not yet observed us ; they wtr^^ 
the first I had seen during my travels, and I felt anxious 
to get a shot at them. I directed Edom to dismount and 
hold both our horses, whilst I advanced cautiously along 
on my hands and knees : I loaded my gun and pistol, and, 
taking tlie edge of the woods, crept slowly along for about 
200 yards, keeping my eye constantly on the herd, which 



158 KEIl'S TRAVELS. 

did not observe me ; judging I was near enough, I level- 
led my piece and brought one of them to the ground, and 
the others ran off with astonishing rapidity. I advanced 
to the one I had killed, and found him fkt and fit for 
roasting. 

As this was the first elk I had an opportunity of seeing, 
I shall give a short description of him. He measured nine 
feet from the end of the muzzle to the root of the 
tail, the head and neck being extended in a line with the 
body ; its height at the shoulder was four feet six inches ; 
length of the head one foot six inches ; length of the fore- 
legs two feet five inches ; length of the neck two feet six 
inches ; its ears measured nine inches, and its tail three. 
Its horns were not palmatic, like those of the moose ; they 
were large, and measured about five feet from tip to tip. 
The antlers were round imd pointed at the ends, the low- 
ermost forming a curve downward over each eye, to 
which they appeared a defence. Its hair was long, of a 
dark dun colour on the back and sides, and of a dark 
brown on the head and legs. Its eyes were full and lively, 
and below each there was a deep slit about two inches in 
length, the use of which I was unable to determine. They 
are very lively and active, of great strength of body and 
limbs ; their hoofs are short and like those of a calf; the 
division between them is less than in those of the reindeer, 
aiul when the animal is in motion they do not make a rat- 
tling noise. They have no mane, but the hair under thq 
zieck is longer than tliat on any other part of the body. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 159 



CHAP. XIV. 



Descnption of the country — Author meets two Indian hunt^ 
ers — Manner of their taking buffalo — Author goes with 
them to their tribe — Friendly reception from the chief 
of the Mnacedeus — Singular treatment received by 
Eidom — Preparations of the natives for a grand hicnt — 
Author accompanies them — Consternation of the In- 
dians at seeiiig f rearms. 

W^E had now a sufficiency of provision, which would 
enable us to travel some days ; and I felt anxious to arrive 
among a tribe of Indians, from whom I expected to re- 
ceive valuable information. I found by e^^mining my 
maps that I had already deviated a considerable distance 
from the direct road to Mexico ; and owing to the trou- 
bles which were daily taking place in that fine countr}-, I 
determined to take a circuitous route, and explore the 
western part of that country which borders on Mexico, 
previous to entering the Mexican empire. 

We pursued our joumfey until we came to a broad 
stream, over which we swam our horses, and entered into 
a country which was more mountainous and woody than 
any I had seen : the wood principally consisted of black 
ash, sycamore, black walnut, hickory, and lofty magno- 
lias ; indeed this is the common growth of the country, 
although there are many other sorts, but not in plenty. 
Among the number which I saw was the cork tree, some 
of which were very large, and I presume they would be 
found quite as valuable as those of Europe, as some of 
them were larger than any I had seen in Spain. We en- 



160 KER'S TRAVELS, 

camped at night, after having come about twenty-five 
miles. 

In the morning I was awaked by Edom, who informed 
mc that he heard a noise as of some one singing. I im- 
mediately arose, and made such preparations as were ne- 
cessary, fearing I should have to contend with an enemy. 
As it was daylight, I thought it best to pursue our jour- 
ney. We had not gone far when I perceived a smoke, 
which appeared to be at no great distance, and exactly in 
our track. I examined my rifle and pistol, putting my- 
self In readiness to meet an enemy. In a few minutes an 
opening in the trees discovered to me two Indians, who 
liad not as yet seen us. We advanced with caution, be- 
ing fearful of giving alarm ; in a few minutes they per- 
ceived us, and seemed much struck with surprise. I held 
out my hand, and endeavoured by signs to convince them 
that I was friendly disposed. 1 dismounted my horse, 
and advanced towards them : they eyed me with distrust, 
but did not attempt to run away. When I came near I 
offered my hand, which one of them advancing took hold 
of, seeming much pleased with me. 

I now conversed with them by signs, endeavouring to 
learn how far it was to the next tribe of Indians, and to 
nvhat tribe they belonged ; they told me their tribe w^as 
distant three days' journey, and was the nearest tribe by 
many miles ; that they had been out a hunting, and w^ 
now returning home. I found to my surprise that I had 
deviated a considerable distance from the course I had in- 
tended to steer, which was oAving, as I afterwards found, 
to my compass varying considerably. They told me if I 
^vould wait until they had examined their buffalo traps, 
they \vould conduct me to their chief, who was a good old 
man and a great warrior. I immediately consented, and 



KER'S TRAVELS. 161 

Ihcy set about arranging their hunting apparatus and pre- 
paring to return. 

1 found tliey had killed ai^out fourteen buffalo, nine 
bears, and three elk ; the natives inform mc tliat these 
last animals are caught with difficulty ; and it is very 
seldom they get more than three or four of them during 
the season. The buffalo are numerous, and more easily 
ensnared ; their manner of taking them is singular and 
worthy of description. 

The traps are comjDOsed of trees laid one upon another, 
to the height of about six feet, forming a square of about 
fifty feet on each side. On that side \vhere they intend 
the animal shall enter, a quantity of earth is laid, to the 
height of the construction, so as to form an easy ascent of 
about twenty feet. A numl^er of branches of trees are 
placed from each side of the front, in a straight line from 
the raised hill, for about one hundred feet in length, con- 
tinually increasing in width, so tliat the exterior end ex- 
ceeds two hundred feet. A number of poles about six- 
teen feet in length are placed at about fourteen feet from 
each other, with a piece of buffalo dung on the top, and 
in a straight line from the boughs abovementioned. At 
the foot of these poles, the hunter always lies concealed 
to keep the animal in a straight direction, being wrapped 
in a buffalo skin. These poles are placed alike on each 
side, always increasing in breadth from one side to the 
other, and decreasing as the animal approaches the pound. 
When these traps are thus made, the hunters set oif and 
find a herd of buffalo, which they drive easily along till 
they arrive in the vicinity of the pound ; then one of them 
advances and clothes himself in a buffalo skin, waiting the 
approach of the herd, and endeavouring to keep them in 
.M proper dirrrtion. Bv this means they are condncUfI 

9] 



162 . KER^S TRAVELS. 

witliin the exterior line of poles ; if any attempt to go 
out, which is frequently the c:\se, they are prevented by 
the hunters' shaking their buftlilo hides, which drives 
them forward ; so that at last they arrive at the pound, 
and fall headlong one upon another, some breaking their 
necks, backs, &c. ; and now the confusion becomes gen- 
eral, and although the pound is no more than six feet 
high, none will make their escape. 

On the morning of the next day, the Indians being 
ready, we commenced our journey, and proceeded 
through a thick forest of tall and stately trees, after \vhich 
we opened upon an extensive plain. We saw nothing 
worth mentioning, and at night encamped, having come 
tliirty miles. 

The Indians told me they were of the Mnacedeus tribe; 
diat they had been out about t\velve days, and that they 
were returning on account of a grand hunting match, 
which they said was given in consequence of the marriage 
of their chief's daughter. 

The next morning we started early, and had proceeded 
a considerable distance, whien Edom's horse became so 
lame that it was with difficulty he could get along. Un- 
derstanding that there were plenty of horses in their tribe, 
I thought it best to leave our lame one, and mount Edom 
behind one of the Indians, who had ofiered to take him 
up. This being arranged, we proceeded along through 
fme level plains, which abounded in. all the fruits common 
to this country. At night we encamped, having come 
about t\venty-eight miles. 

The country through which we now passed was level^ 
bounded on both sides by hills, which gradually sweR 
into mountains which are clothed to their very tops with 
verdure. ' The soil was a rich black loam, and in sonic 



KER'S TRAVELS. 163 

places a clayey kind of earth,, which appeared well calcu- 
lated for grain of any kind, . 

In the course of this day's journey I picked up some 
pieces of mica and some cjuartz, which are not common 
in this part of the country. The natives informed mc 
that there were stones of a shining aj^pearance and very 
hard, in a mountain about a day's journey from their vil- 
lage ; this mountain I was determined to visit, and to 
examine the stones for myself, if I could obtain the con- 
sent of the natives. 

The next morning the Indians awaked me early, and 
we proceeded on our journey widiout any thing remarka 
ble taking place, until after we entered a defile of the 
mountains, where we found the road very bad, and were 
under the necessity of leading our horses. About 4 
o'clock we came up to the village, where we were re- 
ceived by all the natives, who were drawn out to see us ;•. 
from the curiosity that was excited, I judged that a great 
part of them had never seen a white man before. They 
conducted me to the chief, who I found habited in a deer 
skin, which was thrown over his shoulders, with a head 
dress of feathers, and ear-rings made of bone. He re- 
ceived me very courteously, and after shaking mc by the 
hand, enquired by signs from whence I came. I gave 
him to understand that I had come a great w^ays from the 
southeast, and was going towards a nation of whites at 
a great distance off. He seemed satisfied with my an- 
swers, and directed me to a hut where I found plenty of 
refreshments. 

My negro underwent a much closer investigation ; he 
was the first one they had ever seen, and amused them not 
I little. They would go up to him, feel of his hair, face, 
and hands, and by rubbing endeavour to get off some of 



164 KER'S TRAVELS, 

the black ; when they found this impossible, they would 
go oft' a great distance, set up a loud laugh, and dance up 
to him with great good humour. The old chief called 
him into his tent, and would have made him sleep at his 
feet, had not Edom told him he must keep ^\ith his mas- 
ter and take care of him, to which the old chief very 
readily consented. 

The nation ^vere all busy in their preparations for a 
hunt, which was to take place in a few days, and in which 
all the great men and warriors were to be engaged. It 
was given, as I was made to understand, in consequence 
of a marriage w hich had been solemnized a few days be- 
fore, between the principal warrior of the tribe, and the 
chief's daughter. The warrior was a tall, stout, well 
made Indian, of a 'rather lighter complexion than the 
others, which I was told was occasioned by his being 
•born of a woman who did not belong to their tribe ; it 
being customary among them to adopt the prisoners taken 
in war, and marry them the same as their own children. 
He was called scalper^ which upon inquiry I found ^vas a 
name he had assumed since he became a man, it being 
customary for them to have a nhme given, which they are 
under the necessity of retaining until they perform some 
exploit either in hunting or war which will entitle them to 
take a new name, when they are admitted into the coun- 
cil of warriors with great ceremony. They choose what 
name they please, which generally has some reference to 
a distinguished action they have performed. This man 
was called scalper^ on account of his having taken sixty- 
three scalps in one day from a nation with Avhom they ^\'ere 
at war. 

The girl appeared about sixteen, and was handsomer 
than any I had before seen ; she had an expression oF 



KER'S TRAVELS. 165 

melancholy in her countenance, which induced me to think 
she was not entirely happy in her new husband ; and he 
had a savage look which was fiir from being pleasing, and 
more so than the natives of this tribe generally have. 

On the morning of the fourth day after my arrival, 
being the 16th of July, 1812, they sat out on their hunt- 
ing excursion. The party consisted of all the chief war- 
riors and young men of five of their principal towns, and 
amounted in all to about one thousand. They were 
armed with spears and arrows. Their spears '.vere about 
fourteen feet in length, made of a kind of ^vood which I 
did not know the name of ; the tree grows to the height 
of five and twenty feet, and has small sharp pointed leaves. 
The spears are pointed at the end with bone, which is 
very sharp and smooth. Their arrows are made of white 
oak, about six feet long, and those used for hunting are 
blunted so as not to injure the skin of those birds they 
kill ; those used for war are pointed, and dipped in a 
poisonous kind of liquor. 

We had about eight miles to go to die place ^vhere 
they expected to find their game, ^vhich was througli a 
wood, thick and almost impassable. At last we arrived 
in the neighbourhood of a pond about a mile in extent, 
around which the land was clear ; in the middle of the 
lake there was a small island, which was thickly studded 
with woods, and where there was plenty of game ; but 
there were no canoes, and I waited with impatience to see 
in what manner they would kill their game at the distance 
of an hundred and fifty yards, and ^vhere the birds had 
the benefit of thick trees to shade them from their ene- 
mies. I soon found that in this consisted the principal 
art and amusement of their hunting parties ; for whoever 
could strike a deer or kill a bird at that distance, was 



166 KER'S TRAVELS. 

considered a great hunter, and received the loudest ap- 
plause. 

I had brought my musket, wliich in fact was never out 
of my hands day nor night, and I judged I should be en- 
abled not only to amuse the natives, but to give them a 
high opinion of my consequence. I had not as yet fired 
my gun, and I judged very few of these Indians had 
ever seen firearms before. They made several attempts 
■with their arrows and spears, which, though directed with 
great exactness, w^ere nevertheless unsuccessful. I now 
had a fine opportunity of showing my dexterity, as a deer 
of the largest size came to the beach to drink ; several 
arrows were discharged, which did not reach their object, 
nor alarm him, I levelled my gun, and as he raised his 
head, fired ; he fell, and the noise of the piece rolled 
along the hills, and re-echoed from every cavern. I lookr 
ed around me, but not an Indian was to be seen ; they 
had fled with precipitation. At last the old chief ven- 
tured to make his appearance, and after contemplating me 
for some tune, advanced and asked me if the Great Spirit 
was any more angry. I felt my risible faculties so strong- 
ly excited by tliis question, that I had much difficulty in 
keeping from laughing. I assured him he had nothing 
to fear, and directed him to call his companions. In a 
few minutes they all appeared, but with astonishment 
marked in their countenances ; they approached me with 
caution, and kept a suspicious eye upon my gun. I now 
directed Edom to go and bring the stag, and three of the 
Indians offered their services to assist him. In about a 
quarter of an hour they got Rim over, and it was some 
time before the Indians could find where he had received 
the wound. The chief requested to take my gun, which 
I lent him, and he examined it very attentively ; he thm 



KER'S TRAVELS. IG7 

Itanded it to his son-in-law, who, after viewing it for some 
time, returned it to me, telling me by signs I must fire 
again. 1 accordingly loaded my gun, and in a few min- 
utes, seeing four ducks on the wing, fired, and brought 
three of them down ; when I fired the Indians all stopped 
their ears and shut their eyes. 

After getting the ducks, the chief directed the hunters 
to move on to an open plain, and there to hunt the buffa- 
lo ; this Was to be done on horses, some going on one 
side , and some on the other, whilst^ those that remained in 
the rear were to keep the game from escaping. The chase 
sooi\ began, and was conducted with great skill by the 
Indians, who were armed with a long spear, and rode 
without a saddle. This manner of taking game, however, 
is not so safe nor so quick as with the traps, and is never 
practiced but upon particular occasions, when they wish 
to show their horsemanship, which is far from being con- 
temptible. 



CHAP. XV. 

Author sets out for a larger village of the Mnacedeus— 
Observes strong marks of a Welch origin in this tribe — 
Similarity of their marriages arid funerals rvith those 
of the Welch — Author hears of a white man who is 
among them — Finds considerable platina in their pos- 
session — Ineffectual attempts to discover where they 
procure it — Feigns himself sick — Curious treatment. 

I WAS informed by the chief that they had a much larger 
village near the mountain than ^he one we were now in, 
and I felt anxious to see it. I accordingly obtained leave 



168 KER'S TRAVELS. 

from the cliief to visit it. He sent an Indian with mc, 
^vitli orders to the chief of the village to use me well and 
take special care of my property. 

I had vmderstood from Dr. Sibley, when I was in 
Natchitoches, that a number of travellers in our western 
territories had asserted, that there was a strong similarity 
• between the Indian language, and many words of the 
Welch, which had led to conjectures that it was probable 
they had descended from emigrants from that country, 
many years before its discovery by Columbus. I had 
been very careful in my inquiries among the different 
tribes I had occasion to visit ; but had obtained no satis- 
faction as yet relative to so important a point. 

When I arrived in this village I perceived something 
which struck me very forcibly as being different from any 
thing I had before seen in any Indian town ; and being 
always attentive to things which had a singular appear- 
ance, I set about making such observations as would lead 
to a discovery of the cause. There is a striking similar- 
ity between their customs and those of the Welch ; 
exclusive of this, they have printed books among them, 
\vhich are preserved with great care, they having a tradi- 
tion that they were brought tliere by their forefathers. 

Besides tliis, many of their customs are very similar ; 
their marriage ceremonies, for instance, which I had an 
opportunity of seeing. After the couple are married, a 
spot of ground is selected, and each one of the male rela- 
tions contribute in forming a hut for the young couple, 
A\ liile the care of furnishing it is left to the female rela- 
tions. In their funeral ceremonies there is something 
which approaches near to that of the Welch. Each one 
of the kindred carry the corpse a short distance, and then 
addi'cssing die deceased, they ask if they have ever failed 



K-ER'S TRAVELS. 16^ 

to do their duty towards him. No^v these circumstances, 
I am well aware, are not conclusive testimony, but the 
similarity is very striking. In the marriages of the 
Welch, according to the Rev. Dr. Bingley, they make a 
collection to defray the expenses of the occasion, and aid 
the new married couple ; in their funerals, it is customary 
after prayer for four of the nearest kin to the corpse to 
carry it to the grave. I did not understand the Welch 
language, or I should have been enabled to have thrown 
more light upon so interesting a subject. Hie books 
appeared very old, and were evidently printed at a time 
when there had been very litde improvement made in the 
casting of types. I obtained a ftw leaves from one of the 
chiefs, sufficient to have thrown light on the subject ; but 
in my subsequent disputes with the Indians I lost them^ 
and all my endeavours to obtain more were ineffectual. 

Upon my return to Natchitoches, communicating tl^ 
above information to some gentlemen whom I met at Dr. 
Sibley's, one of them assured me that about two years 
before he conversed with a Welch gentleman who had 
been . employed by the Hudson bay company, and had 
been recently in the vicinity of the Red river, that he there 
met Indians whose dialect he well understood ; whose 
women were much fairer than ordinary, and many of 
Avhose customs agreed with those of his o^vn country ; 
that he too had been shown a printed book, but could not 
read it, owing as he thought to its being of so ancient a 
date ; all his attempts to procure it were ineffectual. 

I offer these accounts to tlie public without any com- 
ments : they are vague, and in many parts unsatisfactory ; 
but certain it is, if these are facts, it demands the serious 
investigation of the curious and learned relative to the 

22 



170 KER'S TRAVELS. 

reasons which cause mankind to degenerate when left to 
themselves. 

The only historical information which serves to throw 
any light upon die subject, is an account given by Mr. 
Powell, in his History of Wales, which relates, that in the 
twelfth century, Madoc, the youngest son of Madoc ap 
Shenkin, weary of contending for his father's cro\Mi, left 
his country, and sailed from Wales a due west course till 
he discovered an unknown country. That he afterwards 
returned, and made such favourable report of the land as 
induced numbers to embark with him. He returned 
again to his country, and sailed a third time, and has never 
been heard of since. 

jFor some days after my arrival I was quite unwell, 
which was the only sickness I had experienced for 
some months. I found the chief with whom I now 
lived a man about forty years of age, stout, and well 
made, though not tall ; he was married, and had three 
children, all daughters. One of his daughters were 
married to a young warrior who had been wounded in 
batde and had not yet recovered. He told me that many 
moons ago there came among them a white man, who 
wished to stay and become one of them ; that they gave 
him a wife ; that he ^vas now living, but gone on a hunting 
party. I felt anxious to see this man, as much from cu- 
riosity as any tiling ; for what rational being, thought ly 
who had been accustomed to the sweets of civilized soci* 
cty, would wish to leave their haunts a^id join a horde of 
savages. 

In my observations on the women, I perceived some 
very fine pieces ojf metal which looked like platina ; I 
(inquired of the natives \\ here they got it, but could get 
no satisfactory answer, as they always appeared to evade 



KER'S TRAVELS. 171 

the question whenever it was put to them. I neverthe- 
less determined to diseover it if possible, as the value of 
the discovery would amply repay me for all my dangers 
and disappointments. 

These Indians, although they did not seem acquainted 
with white men, yet appeared to imdcrstand that the pri- 
mary cause of all the misfortunes which had attended the 
aboriginal inhabitants, Avas their havmg mines in their 
country which were sought after by the whites. Fearing 
that they might HUl a prey to this avarice and rapacity, 
they had determined to keep their mines a secret and dis- 
cover them to no one ; I, however, trusted still to chance, 
and as I saw enough of the metal and other circumstances 
to convince me there were mines in their tribe, and that 
too of considerable extent, I was determined to remain 
among them for some time at least, in order to discover 
them. 

I found it would be necessary, in order to remain 
among them witliout suspicion, that I should feign myself 
sick ; accordingly one night about 12 o'clock I sent for 
the old chief, and appeared in violent distress. I told 
him I was unwell, and requested something which would 
relieve my pain. He immediately commenced rubbing 
my temples, applying warm stones to my feet, and en- 
deavoured to get me into a profuse perspiration. After 
about half an hour's attendance, finding I was easier, he 
left me, but in the morning returned, attended by one of 
the priests, who acted as a physician ; he took out of a 
small bag some dried leaves, which he pulverized very 
fine iu his hand ; then taking a small piece of fat of a 
she bear, he mixed it very carefully together, until it be- 
came a very fine salve. When this was done, he made a 
iire in the middle of the hut, and heated some water by 



17i^ KER'S TRAVELS. 

throwing stones into it ; after it was suflieiently hot, lie 
threw in a (juantity of herbs, and covered it over widi a 
piece of bear skin. He now drew me towards the fire, 
and after stripping off my shirt, he anointed my back ^vith 
the ointment he had made, rubl)ing it widi such violence 
as 'to force drops of sweat from my face. He now opened 
a gourd which contained some tea, and gave me to drink 
pl(5iitifully of it ; this threw me into a profuse sweat. I 
felt a dro^\'siness, and in a few minutes after he had left 
me I fell into a profound sleep. 

When I awoke I foinid myself much weakelied, and 
on my attempting to stir I was so sore as rendered it im- 
possible. In a few minutes the chief and the doctor en- 
tered, who enquired how I did. I assured him I was 
better, but complained of being very sore. He then 
looked at my back, and \yithout saying one ^vord, applied 
more ointment. I expostulated, but all in vain ; he 
seemed to pay no regard to my entreaties, and by the 
next morning I found my back as raw as a piece of beef, 
which confmcd me to my hut for about three \veeks. 
During my confinement, the chief and the doctor visited 
me constantly, and seemed b\^ their attentions to be anx- 
ious for my recovery, although when I complained of my 
back they would shrug up thvur shoulders, and smile at. 
each other. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 173 



CHAP. XVI. 



Author is introduced to the white man — His account of 
himself- — Author gains his confidence and is shown the 
platina mine — Description of it — Author returns to the 
town, 

DuiiiNG the time of my confinement I saw no one but 
the old man, the priest, who acted a-s doctor, and my 
faithful negro. I understood that the white man had re- 
turned from hunting, but \vas not permitted to see him 
until my recovery ; this was very slow, ov^ing to the ex- 
treme soreness of my back, for the salve which my doc- 
tor made use of had drawn more violently than any of our 
cantharidcs. 

In about three weeks I was allowed to leave my hut, 
which \vas attended with some ceremony, in the evening 
the young women assembling and dancing before my hut, 
as a sign of joy at my recovery. The next morning I 
was conducted to a hut in which sat a number of Indians, 
and after remaining there some time was asked if I ^id 
not see any one who looked like a white man. I now 
examined every one with attention, but could see no one 
\vho appeared different from the Indians. At last the 
man arose, took me by the hand, and spoke to me in 
English, rendered almost unintelligible h^ disuse. I an- 
swered him^ and immediately the Indians left us. His 
emotions were violent, and a tear stood in his eye as he 
grasped my hand and asked me how long it was since I 
left the United States. I informed him, and after we had 
conversed a short time on uninteresting subjects, per- 



174 KER'S TRAVELS. 

ceiving me to look at him with an eye of curiosity, he 
told me that he would readily tell me what had induced 
him to leave civilized society, if I would promise not to 
tell the Indians, nor shun him while I remained among 
them ; to this I agreed, and he seated himself and began 
as follows : 

" My name is Davis ; I was born in one of the north- 
ern states j but shall avoid particularizing where, as my 
relatives have long thought me dead. My parents, in my 
early days, endeavoured to instil into my mind the senti- 
ments of religion, and gave me such an education as 
their circumstances would permit. My temper was vio- 
lent, and even in my younger years would break out with 
such fury, as at times to alarm my fatlier and mother. 
They would expostulate with me, and endeavour to con- 
vince me of my error ; but I seldom listened to their ad- 
monitions, and would frequently, as soon as they were 
out of sight, make game of them, and turn their good 
advice into ridicule. It was my disobedience and con- 
tempt of my parents' commands, which laid the founda- 
tion of all my future misfortunes. 

" At an early age I left my parents and went to sea. I 
iiad not been out but about twelve days when a violent 
storm arose, which in a few hours reduced our vessel to 
such a wreck as made it necessary for us to take the boat. 
In this situation we drifted about for three days, when we 
were picked up by an English sloop of war, and imme- 
diately seized upon and compelled to do duty on board 
this vessel. I shall pass over the hardships and difficul- 
ties I encountered while in this service, which continued 
for eighteen months ; at the end of this time, while in 
the West- Indies, I found means to escape, and arrived 
ia the United States. My parents received me as om 



KER'S TRAVELS. 175 

risen from the dead, and freely forgave me all the tears 
and anxiety I had caused them. 

" My mind was softened by the caresses and kind ex- 
pressions which I received from my parents, and when I 
contrasted it with the late cruel treatment I had received 
OH board of British ships, I resolved never to offend nor 
grieve them more. For some time I kept my resolu- 
tions ; but alas, the instability of all human resolutions ; 
those caresses which had made me resolve to conduct 
with propriety, and govern my temper, were soon treated 
with contempt, and too often I repai(J their expressions of 
kindness with rudeness and disdain. 

" I now^ paid my addresses to a young woman of the 
most amiable temper, who lived about a mile from my 
father's. She was handsome ; and what was more, her 
mind was cultivated, her temper sweet, and she possessed 
all those qualities which adorn her sex, and render them a 
blessing to mankind. My mother saw my attachment 
with approbation, and felt anxious that I might attain a 
woman of so sweet a temper, in hopes that it would 
soften and ameliorate my own ; alas ! little did she think 
of the wretchedness it would bring upon one who Avas 
worthy of havnig her path strewed with flowers. 

" In a short time after we were married, my temper, 
which had kept within bounds, broke out with renewed 
violence, and seemed to have gained fresh strength from 
having been so long smothered. My wife bore it ^vith 
meekness and resignation, and if ever she murmured it 
was in secret ; when before me, her face was always clad 
in smilcs^^r that gloomy sadness which would have 
melted any neart but mine, which was steeled against all 
the feelings of humanity. 

*' We lived six years in this manner, in which time ^\e 



176 KER'S TRAVELS, 

had two children ; they were lovely as then* mother, and 
seemed to inherit all her good qualities. My temper 
grew worse and worse, if it were possible, and at length 
my wife told me, in mild terms, that if I continued to 
conduct myself in such a manner, she should be under 
the necessity of leaving me ; at this I flew at her with vi- 
olence, and gave her several blows which she bore with 
meekness ; my oldest child came accidentally between us, 
and received a blow which laid it dead at my feet. All 
the feelings of the mother were now roused ; she called 
me an inhuman wretch, the murderer of my child, and 
threatened to have me made a public example^ This 
roused me from the stupor into which I had sunk 
on seeing my child dead at my feet, and I determined at 
once to rid myself of the only one who could possibly 
bring me to punishment ; I seized her by the hair, and 
In a few minutes she was no more." 

Here he stopped, overcome with his emotion, and 
covered his face with both his hands. I was so much 
shocked and surprised that it was impossible for me to 
ask him to proceed, or even to utter a syllable. At 
length he recovered, and taking me by the hand, asked 
me if I did not think him a wretch who ought to be ban- 
ished from all society and ranked among the brutes. 
Before I had time to reply, he exclaimed in a wild and 
frantic manner, *' I know you do, and had you known 
my beloved Maria you w^ould call me the greatest mon- 
ster that ever lived : she loved me with tenderness, and 
sought every opportunity of calming my temper and ren- 
dering me happy ; but I wilfully refused to be pleased, 
and took pleasure in contradicting and rendering unhappy 
the best ^voman in the world." 

As soon as he became sufficiently composed, I request- 



KER'S TRAVELS. 177 

ed him to inform me how he came among these Indians : 
Jie told me that he immediately left the house, after se- 
curing the doors, taking with him what cash he had on 
Jiand, his youngest child having been left at his father's 
some days before. He took passage on board a vessel 
bound to New- York, which sailed at 12 o'clock that 
night, and had a very quick passage. On his arrival he 
A vent on board a vessel bound to New- Orleans, which 
sailed the next day. After his arrival at New-Orleans, he 
engaged with some men who were about ascending the 
Missisippi. On his arrival at the Red river he left them, 
and proceeded till he found this nation, who had given 
him a friendly reception, and among whom he had con- 
tinued ever since. 

Having heard him with attention until he had finished 
liis story, I thought it my duty before I left him to en- 
deavour to convince him that his present course of life 
was not calculated to render him happy here or hereafter. 
I therefore seriously expostulated with him, and assured 
him of the mercy which was always extended to those 
who were truly penitent, and who, with the humble pub- 
lican, approached the mercy seat with this prayer, '^ God 
be merciful to me a sinner." You may now be enabled, 
said I, by a variety of employments, to drive the thoughts 
of a future state from your mind, and for a time to be- 
come indifferent about your immortal interests ; but this 
will not always be the case ; the period is approaching ^ 
in which conscience, if not quite petrified, will be roused 
from her torpor — in which she will sound the alarm, and 
the soul, awakened from its sleep, feel the vanity of all 
that is terrestrial. For what are all the pleasures of sense 
to you, who are conscious of the depravity of your htfart, 
and sensible of having heinously deviated from the path 

23 



178 KER'S TRAVELS. 

of duty — of having passed your life heedless of the coun- 
sels of parental affection, or such as experience or religion 
dictated. It is indeed possible that your mind ma}' be 
diverted from a minute attention to the turpitude of its 
own actions, but the delusion will not last for ever ; a man 
cannot always trifle ; the hour of reflection will obtrude ; 
and if you be determined not to anticipate, you will 
shortly be compelled to realize the period when deception 
and artifice will be impracticable ; when all terrestrial 
scenes will be withdrawn ; when the soul, no longer 
soothed by flattery, nor seduced by hope, must converse 
with death ; and this too in a moment when the avenues 
of mercy are closed for ever, and in \vhich your aflPrighted 
soul will have to exclaim in the terrors of despair, " the 
harvest is past, the summer is ended, and I am not 
saved." 

He thanked me for my advice, and seemed much af- 
fected. I felt a depression of spirits which it was impos- 
sible for me to overcome, and after assuring him I M^ould 
Jiot impart it to the Indians, or any one who could do him 
an injury, I departed for my hut, being unable any longer 
to bear a conversation with him. When I entered my 
luit I found die old chief, who had been waiting for me 
some time ; he examined my back, which he found doing 
very well, and in a few minutes after he left me. 

I had been about two months with this tribe, during 
which time I had made vain endeavours to discover where 
their mine of platina \vas ; all my endeavours to obtain 
information from the natives had not been attended with 
success. I concluded the white man would be the most 
likely to be won over to impart to me the pkice where the 
muie was, and for this purpose I resolved to gain his con- 



KER'S TRAVELS. 179 

fidcnce by such presents as it was in my power to give, 
and were most likely to me(;t his attention. 

In a few days I gave him a knife, some strings of 
beads, and showed him a quantity of specie, which I told 
him was at his service ; at the same time drawing him 
artfully ii'ito a conversation relative to the mine of platina, 
showing him a small piece I had procured from one of 
the natives, and requesting him to give me such informa- 
tion as was in his pow^r respecting it. 

He hesitated for some time, and at last observed, that 
if it was known to the natives that he had told me, death, 
and that of the most horrid kind, would be the conse- 
quence. 1 assured him he had nothing to fear on that 
account, as I should be so cautious in all my proceedings 
as to render it impossible for me to be discovered. 
He at last consented, telling me that the Indians only 
worked it occasionally, and that it was situated about 
twenty miles southwest of the town ; that if I had a 
mind to go he would conduct me, but it would be ne- 
cessary for us to start m the morning before daylight, that 
the natives might not discover us ; I consented, and the 
next morning was appointed for us to commence our 
excursion. 

During the remainder of the day I arranged my affairs, 
and cleaned my rifle and pistol. I directed Edom, in 
case any of the natives should make particular enquiry 
in the morning for me, to tell them I had gone out, a 
thing that was customary, but would return in the course 
of the day. 

I arose the next morning about 2 o'clock, and being 
joined by . Davis, we commenced our journey. We 
travelled with great caution and silence until we got out 
<)f the village, £uid then struck into a path which led 



180 KER'S TRAVELS. 

through the woods, and wound around the foot of the 
mountain. The road soon began to gi'ow steep and diffi- 
cult ; huge and craggy rocks, whose sharp points tore 
our clothes and lacerated our bodies, formed a principal 
part of the road. We proceeded with the greatest diffi- 
culty, leading our horses, and clambering over steep pre- 
cipices that were formed by the fissures of the rocks. 
After a tedious journey we arrived at the top of one of 
tlie mountaijis w^hich form this chain, and my guide now 
informed me we were within a short distance of the ob- 
ject of ni}^ pursuit. We sat down and rested ourselves 
for some time ; and when tlie sun arose, hastened to ex- 
plore the mine before we should be missed by the na- 
tives. We soon arrived at its mouth, and began to de- 
scend. I found that the natives had not worked it very 
deep. It was situated at the top of one of those moun- 
tains which skirt the village ; the mountain is very flat for 
near a quarter of a mile, and covered with a rich long 
grass, which is enamelled w ith a thousand flowers. The 
vein extends from west to east, and is so rich that the 
platina may be cut with a knife. Indeed, it would never 
have been worked by the natives had not that been the 
case ; for they have no implements suitable for working- 
mines, nor any idea of what is necessary. 

I took several pieces of the metal, which I found »to be 
purer than any I had before seen. Davis begged me to 
conceal it in such a manner as that it ^^^ould not be dis- 
covered by the natives, and I assured him I should bury 
it on my return to my hut. 

We returned by the same way we had come, making 
all possible haste for fear the natives would miss us and 
suspect where we had gone. We had just cleared the 
mountain, and were travelling slowly along the commoif 



KER'S TRAVELS. 181 

l)ath, when we were met by two Indians who were going 
a fishing. On being told we had been hunting they pass- 
ed us without suspicion, and I reached my hut in safety, 
where I deposited my booty, and set about making ar~ 
rangements for anotlier visit to the mine. 



CHAP. XVII. 

Author in detained from visiting the monntaifi by had 
weather— Melancholy of the white Indian — Author 
goes to the mine — Betrayed and taken by the natives — 
Examination by the principal chiefs — Sentenced to be 
shot — Rescued by the humanity of the Indian chief ^s 
daughter — Joy ofEdom at my deliverance — Reasons 
why I was betrayed — Verses by the Duchess of Devon - 
sJiire — Author pursues his journey — More particulars 
respecting the Mnacedeus tribe — Importance to the 
United States of working mines* 

The next morning it rained with violence; the storm 
continued for four or five days, during which time I had 
no opportunities of visiting the mine, but employed the 
time in arranging my papers, and making particular ob- 
servations on the manners and customs of the natives, the 
construction of their huts, 8cc. 

The white Indian visited me very constandy, and con- 
versed on several topics with ease. As he spoke the 
Indian language with fluency, he was of great help to me 
«n nil my communications with the natives, among whom 



182 KERS TRAVELS. 

he had considerable influence. He appeared to be a man 
of good information, and would many times converse 
with gaiety and good humour. He nevertheless would 
frequently be sunk in the greatest despondency, and set 
with his eyes fixed upon the ground for hours ; he would 
then start from his seat, rush into the thickest part of the 
woods, and remain for the rest of the day. The Indians 
ceased to be surprised at his conduct, and the old chief 
told me that they thought him troubled by the Great 
Spirit ; I was of their opinion, for he must have felt 
the gnawings of a guilty conscience, which is, to use the 
emphatical language of Scripture, " the worm that never 
dies." 

As soon as the weather became fine I made a journey 
to the mine. The plan I adopted was this : as soon as 
the Indians retired to rest, myself and Edom would sally 
fordi, and taking our horses which were grazing near the 
skirts of the town, proceed with a ^quick pace till we 
reached the foot of the mountain where the mine lay, 
leave our horses and proceed on foot; and we generally 
succeeded in returning by daylight. 

The white Indian hjid never been with me to the mine 
since the first time, and never attempted to converse with 
me on the subject ; he would generally visit me once a 
day. He came in one morning about 10 o'clock, unper- 
ceived by me as I was ernployed in writing ; he stood some 
time, and when I turned and discovered him, his counte- 
nance was visibly altered from its common appearance ;' his 
large eyes glared with unusual fierceness, and his whole 
appearance betrayed emotions of the most violent kind. 
As soon as he saw I noticed him, he advanced, and en- 
deavoured to converse ; but he was evidently embar 
rassed, and in a short time retired. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 183 

111 the evening myself and Etlom again started for the 
mine ; we had now made three journeys, and judging I 
had as mucli as we could conveniently carry, was deter- 
mined this should be the last. 

The moon shone with unusual brightness, and I began 
alread}^ to anticipate a rich reward for all my labours ; but 
man is born for disappointments, and the moment his 
cup appears full it is suddenly dashed from his lips, and 
he is constrained to acknowledge that there is no perma- 
nent happiness on this terrestrial globe. If we would 
find happiness, we must look to that brighter and better 
world which has the immediate presence of Him " with 
whom there is no variableness nor shadow of turning." 

I arrived at the mouth of the mine and was preparing 
to descend, when Edom exclaimed that he saw some one 
among the long grass which covered the mountain. I 
immediately seized my rifle; but before I could get it in 
a position to defend myself, I was surrounded by about 
fifty Indians, ^vho immediately seized my gun and bound 
me with thongs of buffalo skin. Edom was less fortu- 
nate, for atttempting to make some resistance, they 
knocked him on the head, and would in all probability- 
have dispatched him had it not been for the positive com- 
mand of a chief, who had orders to bring us alive before 
the principal council. 

We were cond«cted with much silence, the Indians 
scarcely speaking a word. I attempted several times ta 
converse with the chief who conducted us, but was al- 
ways commanded to keep silence. We were conducted 
by a nearer path than the one by which we came, and in 
a short time arrived at the village. They put me in 
a different hut from the one I had occupied, and placed 
a strong guard at the door. I had fiere full leisure to 



184 KER'S TRAVELS. 

reflect upon my situation, and expected that nothing but 
the most lingering death awaited me. 

In the morning I was taken from the hut and examin- 
ed by the principal chiefs, who were seated around a fire 
at the door of the old chief's hut. Not a person was to 
be seen but the Indians who guarded me and the chiefs who 
formed the council. Profound silence reigned, when the 
old chief began his interrogations. He first inquired the 
cause of my going to the mountain ; I told him I had 
been a hunting a few days before, when I had accidentally 
discovered some metal, and not knowing what it was I had 
gone back to get some and see what was its value. The old 
chief shook his head, and seemed not satisfied with the 
answer. I was asked several other questions, which 
principally related to leaving my country, reasons for 
travelling among them, &c. I answered 4II of them as 
well as I could, and after being about an hour in their 
presence they conducted me again to my hut. 

The next day I was permitted to remain where I was, 
I requested leave to see the white Indian, which they 
denied me, alledging as an excuse, that he was sick, and 
could not see me ; my man Edom was however brought 
to the hut, who assured me that he was free, as the In- 
dians thought that he was not guilty, and would not have 
gone had it not have been for me. 

On the morning of the third day I was conducted from 
my hut to the great square, where I found every inliab- 
itant of the village who was over fourteen years of age. 
In the centre of the square was placed a platform, on 
Avhich sat the same chiefs who tried me a few days be- 
fore ; on one side stood all the girls of the village, and on 
the other all the warriors, who were armed with bo\vs and 
arrows. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 185 

1 was now brought forward, and the old chief addressed 
me, charging me with a \vish to destroy their nation by 
tempting white men to come among them ; he charged 
me with falsehood in telling them that it was the first time 
I had been at the mine, as I had more platina in my hut 
than could be brought away at once ; he uncovered a 
heap that lay at one end of the stage, and showed me all 
I had brought from the mine ; he then told me that I 
must prepare for death as I should be shot in about an, 
hour. 

My feelings cannot be described when this informa- 
tion was communicated to me ; but it was grateful to 
me to see that the greater part of the Indians, paiticu- 
iarly the females, were much affected at the i|^verity of 
the sentence ; indeed I had conducted myself with such 
strict propriety, and made the natives such a number of 
little presents that there was not one who had any ill wil! 
towards me. 

I requested to see Edom, and he was conducted to- 
wards me. When the poor fellow understood I was to 
be shot, he could scarce keep within the bounds of reason ; 
he tore his hair, threw himself upon the ground, and it 
was some time before I could induce him to hearken to 
me ; at last he became more calm. I told him he must 
endeavour to get back to New- Orleans, on my account, 
as I wanted him to carry information to my friends ; I 
told him that after my death he must collect such articles 
as were allowed him of mine, particularly my papers, and 
deliver them to Dr. De Fludcar. :* he promised me he 
would. I then requested him to leave me, as my time 
was short, and I had some preparation to make before I 
went hence to " that bourne from whence no traveller re- 
turns." 

24 



186 KER'S TRAVELS. 

He now left me, and I turned my attention to that 
Being in whose hands are the " issues of Hfe and death.'* 
Ahhough I had by no means been faithful to the divine 
commands, and had, in eommon with all mankind, gone 
far from the path ^vhich is marked out by strict rectitude 
and propriety, I nevertheless knew he was a God who 
cast none off in the hour that they approached his foot- 
stool, and humbly asked forgiveness of their transgres- 
sions ; for who was to set bounds to Infinite Mercy ? or, 
where is the humble, contrite penitent, who went away 
from the temple of Omnipotence, without receiving some 
token of the Divine favour ? I prayed with fervency^ re- 
lying entirely on God for protection, knowing it was in 
his power to work out my deliverance ; and if it was 
thought necessary for me to bow my head to the king of 
terrors, I exclaimed vi^itii the divine Jesus, " Thy will 
Jiot mine be done." 

I arose from my devotions with calmness, and awaited 
the determinations of my judges. In a few minutes the 
chief arose, and by a motion of his hand, announced the 
time had arrived when I was to be led to execution ; they 
advanced and bound my hands with thongs ; they then 
led me to a stake, and fastened me to it by another thong ; 
six of the natives ^vere arranged in front of me, ready to 
draw their arrows to the head and pierce me to the heart. 
At this moment a circumstance occurred, as unlooked for 
by me, as it was singular and interesting. 

The moment that the arrow^s were drawn to their 
heads, and the Indians ready to execute their fatal sen- 
tence, the youngest daughter of the principal chief ad- 
vanced with dignity in her steps, and stepping before the 
Indians, waved her hand for them to desist. The bows 
were immediately bent to the ground. She then advanced 



KER'S TRAVELS. 187 

towards me, and cutting the thong ^hich bound me to 
the stake, with a knife I had given her a few days before, 
she led me forward to the platform on which tlie chiefs 
sat ; she then addressed them with earnestness, frequently 
pointing to me and then to the sun. After she had con- 
tinued for some time in this manner, the old chief arose, 
and spoke a few words, when the Indians shouted and 
danced widi great violence. They w^ould have ad\ anced 
towards me had not the chief in a loud and commanding 
tone ordered them to desist and retire to their huts ; this 
they did with reluctance. When they had all gone, my 
deliverer took me by the hand, and led me to her hut ; 
she gave me some refreshment, but told me 1 must de- 
part on the next evening. I was very glad to hear this, 
and told her I should cheerfully comply ^vith any thing 
she should deem proper. The exertions of the day liad 
much fatigued me, and I felt happy to be left alone. 

It is impossible to describe the joy of Edom at my 
deliverance from almost certain death : he had stood at a 
short distance from me, and beheld with silent despair 
the arrows which were to deprive him for ever of my 
guidance and direction ; and he beheld with the most 
lively satisfaction the manner in w^hich I had been re%^ 
cued. 

It may be necessary for me to account in some manner 
for the detection which caused all my present misfortunes. 
It will be recollected that I mentioned my being seen 
writing by the white man j he seemed much surprised at 
it, and I observed that in his communications with me 
afterwards he was not so free as before. He once asked 
me what I had been writing ; I told him it was a memo- 
randum which I -kept of my journey, and showed him 
some parts of it ; this rendered him still more gloom v. 



188 KER'S TRAVELS. 

and for some time before my being taken up lie had 
avoided visiting me, alledging that he was unwell. His 
gloomy and suspicious temper had led him to imagine 
that I was making observations for the purpose of doing 
him an injury ; he therefore resolved to give information 
to the natives of my having discovered their* mines, know- 
ing that the consequence of my detection would be im- 
mediate death. Although I did not see him after my be- 
ing brought from the mine, yet I had reasons for be- 
lieving that he directed all their councils ; and the dis- 
covery of the ore which I had buried sufficiently proved 
it, as it was secreted in such a manner as to elude the 
most rigid scrutiny. 

I remained in the hut all ^he next day, during which 
time my kind benefactress visited me, and endeaA oured, 
by a thousand means, to cheer my spirits ; her kindness 
was truly disinterested, as I had but very little acquaint- 
ance with her, and brought to my mind that interesting- 
occurrence which is related by Mr. Park in his Travels 
through the interior of Africa, the leading circumstances 
of which are so beautifully versified by the Duchess of 
Devonshire : 

** Tlie loud wind roared, tlie rain fell fastj 
The white man yielded to the blast ; 
Jle sat him down beneath our tree. 
For weary, sad'and faint was he. 

CHORUS. 

The white man shall our pity share ; 
Alas ! no wife or mother's care 
For him the milk or corn prepare. 

" The storm is o'er, the tempest past, 
A nd mercy's voice has husVd the blast ; 



KER'S TRAVELS. 189 

The wind is heard in whispers low. 
The white man far away must go. 
But ever in his mind will bear 
Itcmembrance of the negro's care. 

CHORirS. 

The white man shall our pity share; 
Alas ! no wife or mother's care 
For him the corn or milk prepare." 

In the evening two of the brothers of my benefactress 
came to the hut, ready to conduct me on my journey* 
?»'Iy horses having been brought up by Edom, and all 
things being in readiness, we started as soon as the moon 
arose. They conducted me a considerable distance on 
my way, and when they ^vere ready to leave me I made 
them presents of beads and some other articles, with 
>vhich they were highly satisfied. 

I now determined to steer a west southwesterly course, 
as I wished to reach the confines of Mexico, from which 
I was still a considerable distance. It was now the 
12th of October, and I calculated it would take me at 
least two months to reach the place of my destination, as 
in man}^ places the ways were almost impassable. . 

Before I proceed I will give a more particular account 
of the Mnacedeus Indians than I have hitherto done : 
tlie country they inhabit is situated about 350 miles 
southeast from Mexico ; the extent of their tribe I was 
never able to ascertain, which was partly owing to my 
ignorance of their language, and partly to a jealousy which 
they have imbibed against all strangers. That part of 
the country which I saw was fertile, the soil being very 
iich. The growth of the forest is black and white oak, 
hickory, walnut, white pine, cedar,* spruce pine, and a 

* TIic cedars are very majestic ; I measured one uhicU was four f<'Ct in diame- 
'cr and upwards of thirty-eight fcrt clear of limbs. 



190 KER'S TRAVELS. 

variety of others which I did not particularly notice. 
The lofty magnolia rears its magnificent head far above 
all others ; it is the most beautiful tree which grows, and 
is deservedly celebrated by travellers and naturalists. 

These Indians have two towns which I saw, one con- 
taining about 150 huts, and the other about twice that 
number. The huts are constructed in a neater manner 
than any I had before seen ; they consist of poles driven 
into the ground a proper distance, in proportion to the 
size of the hut ; these are fastened at the top with strong 
thongs of buffalo hide, or twigs of trees ; they are then 
interlaced with strips of bark, which are rubbed smooth, 
and some of them stained Avith the juice of berries, which 
gives them a very neat appearance. They have a raised 
bench of earth all around their huts, on which they sleep 
at night. Their cooking utensils are few in number, as 
they dry the principal part of their provisions in the air. 

Their arms, marriages, burials, 8cc. I have already 
described, and shall therefore conclude with a few obser- 
vations on the tribe in general. They are honest, and as 
far as the nature of a savage life will admit, are industri- 
ous ; their dispositions are naturally mild, and on the 
whole they are far from being so savage as many tribes 
who are situated on the borders of the Red river. They 
are jealous of admitting white men among them, although 
I have reason to think they have been visited by very 
fev/ ; tlieir jealousy is principally on account of their 
mine of platina, which is encouraged by the white man 
who is settled among them. 

Platina is a metal which has been but recently discov- 
ered, but is very valuable, and well worthy the attention 
of government. I estimated that the mine would yield 
upwards of a million of pounds sterling Morth of platina .: 



KER'S TRAVELS. 191 

for the veins are so rich, that without any proper tools, I 
got more than a hundred and twenty pounds of pure 
metal, in the three visits I made to the mine ; and that 
under every disadvantage, and without remaining more 
than an hour each time. 

America, from the infancy of its settlement, has been 
under the necessity of drawing a vast quantity of her ne- 
cessaiy articles from the different European countries. 
Mines which would have yielded us a rich and profitable 
traffic, or the means of establishing manufactories, have 
been little attended to. It is hoped, however, that the 
encouragement of our government will be afforded to dis- 
coveries of this kind, and enable us to retain those large 
sums which are annually expended for articles which 
from long use are deemed necessary. 



192 KER'S TRAVELS. 



CHAP. XVIII. 



Author pursues his journey — General observations on the 
country — Large quantities of musquetoes — Some ac- 
count of the soil — Meet a party of Indians — Accompany 
them to their village— Description of it — Description: 
of their huts — Superiority of their trade to that of the 

Mnacedeus — Excellent horses Refections on the 

benefits arising from agriculture and civilization — 
Author pursues his journey — Description of odoriferous 
shrubs and trees found on the mountains — Edom taken 
sick — Delay in our journey — Recovery — Proceed on. 
our journey, 

October, 1812. I proceeded on my journey widi a 
light heart, for the imminent danger which I had escaped 
softened die disappointment I at first suftered from the 
discovery which took place relative to die mine of platina, 
and I now congratulated myself that I was in the land of 
the living. 

I had gained nothing to recompensef me for the deten- 
tion on my journey ; on the contrary, I was considerable 
out of pocket from the different presents I had made the 
chiefs and others ; — but still, that spirit of adventure 
which had first induced me to travel — that wisli to 
aggrandize myself, had not yet abated ; I still went for- 
Avard, with an earnest wish to encounter something which 
AAOuld amply rewai'd me for all my trouble and" disap- 
pointments. 

The country through which I passed became more 
mountainous, and tiie coiu*se I was steering would lead 



KER'S TRAVELS. 193 

mc over that part of the mountain which hcs to the south 
southwest of the Mnacedcus tribe. As I occasionally 
ascended a hill, a fine extensive prospect opened to view. 
Large prairies, bounded on each side l^y forests, whose 
towering trees, nodding before the passing wind, added 
beauty and grandeur to the scene. I had occasionally a 
distant view of the iofty Andes, whose tops are per- 
petually " clad in clouds." This view is one of the 
most beautiful and romantic in this part of the coun- 
try. 

After travelling about twenty-five miles, we encamped 
for the night. The musquetoes were very thick, and so 
large that I was obliged to use my netting in order to get 
any sleep. 

In the morning I pursued my journey, and about ten 
o'clock we came to a pond, in which were a species of 
duck, one of which I shot and found it very good eating. 
We likewise found plenty of roots which serve the natives 
for food, and resolved to try the experiment of boiling 
some of them in my kettle ; they answered very well, 
being almost equal to a potatoe. This root is long, and 
about as large as a common sized radish ; it has a 
tough skin of a ligfit brown colour, w^hich is easily 
scraped off. There are a variety of roots which are fit 
for food in this country ; but as the country abounds in 
all kinds of animal food, they are not much eaten by the 
natives. 

Towards evening we had a severe shower of rain, which 
rendered it necessary for me to encamp, and as it was 
late I thought it best to remain here all night. The rains 
had now' become more frequent, as I approached tne 
mountains, from which run a thousand little rivulets which 
give fertility to -the vallics below. It sometimes happens, 

25 



194 KER'S TRAVELS. 

however, that there is no rain here for several months, 
but at such seasons the dews are very heavy. 

For three or four days I journeyed through a country 
much hke that whJch I have been describing, and for that 
reason I shall avoid particularizing each day's route, as it 
might be tiresome to the reader. The soil of that part 
of the country tlirough which I now passed was of a 
clayey kind, intermixed with small round stones, and a 
few shells, which upon examination 1 found very similar 
to our common cockle shell, only something flatter. As 
this was more than 1700 miles from the sea, it is a matter 
of much curiosity how shells of tliat description came 
there. 

On the morning of the fifth day, after travelling about 
ten miles, we were suddenly surrounded by about forty 
Indians, of a tribe I had never before seen. They wert 
ai'med with bows, arrows, and a kind of tomahawk, 
made of copper, which was suspended in a belt fastened 
round their waist. They approached me with caution^ 
and asked me from whence I came. I informed them by 
signs, and likewise where I was going. They then in- 
vited me to their town, which they gave me to under- 
stand was at no great distance, and just on the route I 
wished to pursue. I accordingly accepted of their invi- 
tation, and in a few minutes they were mounted on horses 
and ready to proceed. 

They informed me they had been out for the purpose 
of hunting, and breaking their horses, of which they have 
great numbers, and of a colour peculiarly valuable ; they 
are of a bright cream colour, very large and well made, 
all of them being from fifteen and a half to sixteen or 
seventeen hands high. The Indians appeared to Vmder- 
stand their value, for upon my offering to bargain M^itft 



KER'S TRAVELS- 195 

them, they told me they would not part Avidi them 
unless I could pay them in silver ; and 1 afterwards un- 
derstood that they traded with the Spaniards, who came 
every year to purchase of them, and took away all they 
could spare. I afterwards saw some of the same horses 
in Mexico, where the}^ were held in high estimation. 

On my arrival at their village, which was situated 
about five miles from where I first saw them, I was met 
by all the women and children which were in tlie village ; 
they appeared to be healdiy, aiul received me with great 
good humour. I was conducted to their chief, who was 
an old man, apparently about seventy years of age. He 
was strong and vigorous, and appeai'ed to possess more 
strength and sprightliness than is usual at that age. 

The village consisted of about sixty huts, and proba- 
bly contained one hundred and sixty persons. The tribe, 
as I understood, was called the Obodeus. The men were 
for the most part well built, strong, and hardy looking ; 
the women were smaller than those of the Mnacedeus 
tribe, and appeared to possess more sprightliness and vi- 
vacity"!: Most of the labour falls upon the women, such 
as making utensils for cooking, and snares- for catching 
birds, drying meat, and various other kinds of drudgery ; 
whilst the men prepare their arms, hunt, and go to war. 
They evidently consider their wives more in the light of 
slaves than compianions, as the husband at his meals not 
only helps himself, but all his children and whoever he 
may have to eat with him, before he allo\vs his wife to 
take any. 

Their huts are constructed something similar to those 
of the Mnacedeus tribe ; but they do not stain the 
bark with which they cover them with berries, and they 
sometimes make use of buffalo hide instead of bark. 



196 KER'S TRAVELS. 

Many of their huts are much larger than any I saw among 
the Mnacedeus, and in the large square instead of a stage 
they have four poles erected, which have a covering of 
buffalo hide on the top. 

In traffic these Indians are much superior to the Mnace- 
deus tribe, as there is an annual communication between 
them and the Mexicans, who barter with them for furs of 
various kinds, bufflilo meat, and horses, and give in ex- 
change knives, beads, tomahawks, made of copper, which 
are very hard and preferred by the natives to iron, some 
pieces of cloth, and a liquor much esteemed among them, 
called mate, which, when drank to excess, is very injuri- 
ous to the constitution, bringing on nervous diseases, 
which in a short time terminate the life of the natives. 

After remaining here a few days I succeeded in 
making an advantageous exchange widi the natives for 
two of their fine horses, and proceeded on my journey. 
The violence of the heat had in some degree abated, and 
I was much afraid the rainy season would set in before I 
could reach the confines of the Mexican empire ; but it 
was necessary that I should travel in such a manner as 
not to wear down my Jiorses before I reached the end of 
my journc} , and on that account I never exceeded thirty- 
fi\e miles in a d^y during the whole of my tour. 

In travelling over some of the most fertile parts of this 
countiy, I have seen much to admire and much to la- 
ment. The richness of the soil, and the mildness of the 
climate, are inviting to every one, and we cannot but ad- 
mire the magnificent hand which has so plentifully strew- 
ed this fine country with some of the richest of nature's 
gifts ; yet, on the other hand, we cannot but lament that 
this country is inhabited by a race of savages who are in- 
sensible to the advantages they enjoy, and who take up 



KER'S THAVELS. 197 

an extent of territory for their support which is capable, 
under cultivation, of supplying five times the number of 
inhabitants with all the necessaries, and many of the lux- 
uries of life. The tribes who now inhabit this country 
are undoubtedly its aboriginal inhabitants, and may with 
propriety argue, that that Being who spake unnumbered 
worlds into existence placed them here, and that they have 
a r ight to a residence till he calls them hence. But this 
would be contrary to that wisdom which is uniform in 
the works of the Almighty, and therefore, as soon as the 
country was known to us, it became our duty, as a na- 
tion, to endeavour to instil into the minds of its inhabi- 
tants the seeds of virtue, and so far instruct them in the 
art of agriculture as to enable them to support themselves 
with comfort on a much smaller space of territory. 
If we succeeded in these benevolent objects, we should 
see millions of happy beings living on the same extent 
of country which now supports only a few thousands, and 
enjoying every thing which is necessary to render the life 
of man agreeable. 

I now travelled with as much rapidity as the roads 
would allow, which were for the most part through rich 
and entensive prairies, clothed with a long grass that ren- 
dered the travelling in many places heavy and unpleas- 
ant. 

On the 6th of November I began to ascend the moun- 
tains, over which it was necessary to pass, and found 
them in many places steep and difficult* of ascent. On 
these mountains are many trees which are worthy of no- 
tice, on account of the odoriferous nature of their 
gums. They are mentioned by the Abbe Clavegero, iu 
his valuable History of Mexico. " From some of them," 
)iQ.says, *^ a balsam is produced, not in the least inferior 



19S KER'S TRAVELS, 

to the celebrated balsam of Mecca ; it is of a reddish 
black or yellowish ^vhite colour, of a sharp, bitter taste, 
and of a strong but most grateful odour. The first par- 
cel of this balsam brought from Mexico to Rome was 
sold at one hundred ducats per ounce, and was, by the 
Apostolic See, declared to be matter fit for chrism, 
though different from that of Mecca." I saw another 
tree whose wood was highly aromatic, and so hard that it 
was with great difficulty 1 cut it with a . sharp hatchet ; 
the leaves are small and of a yellowish cast, the flowers 
small and white, and the fruit very similar to that of the 
laurel. 

Edom had hitherto enjoyed perfect health through all 
the fatigues and perils which he had endured, one short 
period of illness excepted. He never once complained, 
or murmured at his lot. His constitution was strong and 
robust, and he seemed formed by nature to endure hard- 
ships. He had now for some days been visibly grooving 
ill, and although he had not absolutely complained, his 
looks were sufficient to convince me he was far from be- 
ing well : this evening he uttered a slight complaint, but 
would not consent to take any medicine. 

In tlie morning I found Edom so unwell as to be 
scarcely able to stir. I was much alarmed at his situa- 
tion, and endeavoured to affiDrd him such kind of assist- 
ance as ^vould be of service in relieving his malady. 
With some difficulty I succeeded in getting him into a 
profuse perspiration, and he slept soundly the following- 
night. The next morning he seemed to be much better, 
but was so weak as rendered it imprudent for him to pro- 
ceed. I employed myself in arranging my papers and 
cleaning my rifle. 

On the morning of the third day my negro appeared 



KER'S TRAVELS. 199 

somewhat better, and expressed a strong desire to pro- 
ceed, aldiough it should be but slowly, and only a short 
distance ; we accordingly got up our horses, and pro- 
ceeded over steep and rugged parts of the mountain. 
The passage was rendered difficult by many craggy 
points of rocks, which were very sharp and dangerous. 
We had now arrived in that part where I expected to 
meet with Spaniards or other Europeans, who would be 
able to give me information of the rout I must take to 
enter the province of the Otomies, through the principal 
towns of which I intended to proceed until I reached 
Mexico. 

The next day, after proceeding some miles on mv 
journey, I met a trader who had been out buying furs ; 
lie was a Portuguese, but spoke the Spanish language 
with fluency. He informed me that I must steer more 
to the south, and that I was distant about two days' jour- 
ney. He also said that the provinces were in a state of 
insurrection, in consequence of the oppressive measures 
of the Spanish government, which required more from 
the people than they were able to endure. He however 
said, that he believed a stranger might pass unmolested 
among them, if they had no suspicion of his acting under 
the orders of the Spanish government, of which they were 
very jealous. 



200 KER'S TRAA'^ELS. 



CHAP. XIX. 

Author ejiters the Mexican empire — General account of 
the province of Tula — Description of the town of Tula 
— Politeness of the commandant — Visits the arsetial — 
Description of it-— Description oj the court house — 
Author visits a monaster^/ — Friendly reception from 
the superior — Description of its chapel — Return to 
town — Set out for Xilotepec — Information respecting 
the interior provinces of the Mexican empire — Arrival 
at Xilotepec, 

On the 26th of November I entered the confines of the 
Mexican empire, within about twenty miles of Tula, 
which was once much larger and mor^ populous than at 
present. I proceeded by easy journeys, and encamped 
for the night in a fertile plain which was covered with a 
rich luxuriant grass. The climate is very mild, and it 
would have been unnecessary for me to use any covering 
at night, but for the heavy dews, which here constantly 
set in at sunset, and continue until daylight ; they are so 
great, that for a considerable time after the sun is risen, it 
is obscured with the mist which arises from the earth. 

In the moniing I again set forward, and after proceed- 
ing through a country agreeably diversified with hills and 
vallies I came in sight of Tula, and in about two hours 
more I arrived within the to\\'n. I was much pleased 
with the appearance of order and regularity which were 
conspicuous in every part of the to\vn, although the 
greater part of its inhabitants are native Mexicans. The 



KER^S TRAVELS. 201 

Spaniards who reside liere, are principally the officers of 
government, and those whom the desire of gain has drawn 
hither for the purpose of traffic. The town, nevertheless, 
has a very neat and compact appearance, and is well reg- 
ulated in many of its internal arrangements. The inhab- 
itants are industrious, and appear to be happy and con- 
tented ; for such is the nature of man, that oppression 
oftentimes so far weakens the powers of the mind, that he 
stoops contentedly under the burden, and tamely submits 
to the greatest indignities without repining. 

On my arriviil at the town I waited on the comjnan- 
dant, who informed me that there were mules which 
would set out for Xilotepec in a few days, and I could 
have an opportunity of going on with company, which 
would be more agreeable than to go alone, and would at 
the same time be a safeguard against the wild beasts, and 
other dangers which are common on the road ; I thanked 
him for his civility. ' He invited me to dinner, and I could 
not with propriety refuse. I found him a very hospitable 
and intelligent man. His family consisted of his wife 
and three daughters, the youngest of whom appeared to 
be about seventeen years of age. They were delicately- 
made ; their complexions were a light olive, which ren- 
dered them very interesting. They received me with 
much good humour, and during the whole time I was 
with them, they were remarkably cheerful and animated. 
They expressed themselves with elegance, and a degree 
of information pervaded their conversation which is not 
often found in the discourses of Spanish ladies. 

After dinner a Wcilk to the arsenal was proposed, and as 
it met with no opposition from the ladies, we proceeded 
to examine it. This is a depot for all the arms of the 
adjacent countrv, and is said to contain 60,000 stands ; 



202 KER'S TRAVELS. 

but I am confident there was not half this number when 
' 1 was there. 

The arsenal is a large quadrangular building, built of 
brick. The arms are a great part of them packed in 
chests, and the remainder are put up in racks which 
stand against the side of the wall. The building is 
divided-into four apartments. The first is a large room, 
about 125 feet in length and 17 in breadth, in which are 
ranged all the arms that arc fit for service ; the chests 
Avhich contain part of them are placed on each side, im- 
mediately under the racks which contain those that are 
exposed to view ; they are all bright and make a hand- 
some appearance, although their locks are so badly con- 
structed that not one in ten can be depended on. In the 
next room, Avhich is much smaller, arc all the accoutre- 
ments, such as cartridge-boxes, bayonets, &cc. ; they are 
all piled in a heap, so that they 'require overhauling once 
or twice a month to keep them from mildew, and 'from 
rats and other vermin which infest the place. I ventured 
to suggest to the conunandant that it woidd be well to 
adopt a more rigorous policy j he shrugged up his shoul- 
ders, ajid replied that it would be imprudent to adopt any 
new plans relative to the arsenal, as the people ^vere jeal- 
ous of the government, and would view It as an infringe- 
ment of their rights. In the third room are the materials 
proper for mining, raising fortifications, &:c. ; they are 
well constructed, and in better order than miglit be ex- 
pected. We passed other rooms, in Avhich were, a num- 
ber of workmen cleaning and repairing locks, gunbafrels, 
&c. In the yard there were about ninety pieces of 
cannon, all brass, whose carriages ^vcre rotting for Mant 
of .Tcood usage. Here were a number of 'workshops, ir 



KER'S TRAVELS. 203 

which hands were employed in making ramrods, gun- 
barrels, and otlier articles for die arsenal. 

On my return I took leave of the commandant and his 
agreeable family, and returned to my lodgings, where I 
found PLdom who had been out purchasing some neces- 
sary clothing, as his journey had completely divested 
him of all his apparel, and he had for some time been 
obliged to wear a pair of pantaloons made of deer skin. 
His appearance was much altered for the better, and he 
seemed to be not a little proud of it. 

The town of Tula is well situated, and commands a 
handsome and extensive prospect, being situated on a 
hill which rises from a rich and extensive valley in a grad- 
ual and easy ascent ; it is well built, and contains about 
2,700 houses, and a population of near 14,000 souls. The 
streets are many of them wide and paved, and where that 
is not the case the sides are covered witlf mats for foot 
passengers to walk on. There are nine Roman Catholic 
churches in the town, two of which are large and well 
built, of brick which are dried in the sun. In one of 
them, called the church of St. Dominic, is a figure of our 
Saviour on the cross, of solid silver, and the cross is 
richly studded with precious stones. They have a very 
excellent toned organ, but are in want of some one who 
understands playing on it. 

The court house, in which all the public business is 
done, has nothing to recommend it to the attention of the 
traveller. It is built of brick and stone, and contains the 
hall of justice, in which all the criminal and other causes 
are tried — the audience chamber of the province, where 
they meet to adjust the concerns of the province, inquire 
into the conduct of their ofiicers, &c. — a clerk's office, 
two treasury rooms, in which are collected the reve- 



^04 KER'S TRAVELS. 

nue of the country, and the sums which are annually sent 
to Mexico, amounting in all to about 90,000 pounds 
sterling. 

Over the river Taltacasae,Vhich runs at the foot of the 
town, there is a bridge constructed ; it has three arches, 
one of which is 126 feet, and is a handsome and well 
built bridge. 

This city, or town, is the see of an archbishop ; it car- 
ries on a considerable trade with the towns of Xilotepec 
and Mexico. The articles of trade, are conveyed on the 
backs of mules, and they sometimes go in companies of 
iive or six hundred. The police of the town subjects 
all travellers to the trouble of waiting on the comman- 
dant within three days after their arrival, or they must 
suftcr the penalty of a fine. 

I was now informed by the commandant, that the cara- 
van with which I intended setting out, would start on 
that day week, and I immediately commenced making 
such preparations as would enable me to go with them^ 
as it would not only be the safest, but the quickest way in 
which I could travel. 

I had understood that there was a monastery of native 
Mexicans situated a few leagues from the town, and I 
requested the commandant to give me leave to go and see 
them ; he very readily consented, and agreed to accom- 
pany me himself, but unexpected business the next 
morning rendered it impossible, and he sent his brother, 
a young man of miich information, and from whom J 
received many valuable particulars. 

We left the town at the west end, and proceeded by a 
w inding path up the mountain, which was here so steep 
that it was impossible to go direcdy forward. Aftci 
proceeding for about two leagues we stopped in a plaii* 



KER'S TRAVELS. 205 

oF about a quarter of a mile in extent, to breakfast, and 
here the eye was regaled with a prospect truly romantic. 
Just below us appeared the town, whose spires rising in 
lofty magnificence seemed to tell us that there stood the 
temple of God, while a little further on tlie winding of 
the river, which was here but partially seen, gave an in- 
teresting feature to the whole landscape. 

After viewing this prospect for some time, we pro- 
ceeded on our journey, and about noon reached the mon- 
astery. It is situated on a level plain of about a mile in 
extent, from which the mountain rises in an abrupt man- 
ner, and shelters it behind from the north wind, while to 
the south and west it is entirely open. A thick grove of 
trees at no great distance from the house, gave a sober 
cast to the whole scenery, and cooled the air with their 
gentle fannings. 

On our approaching the house we were met by an old 
man, who saluted us with a friendly bow, and welcomed 
us to the habitation. He entered into conversation with 
ease, and displayed much knowledge of the country 
which he inhabited ; I understood he had once been in a 
considerable employment under the government. On 
entering the house we perceived the greatest regularity 
and neatness, and were every where saluted by the monks 
with cordiality and frankness. The old man led us to 
the refectory, where we were received by the superior, a 
man about seventy-five years of age, as I was afterwards 
told, although his brow was fi-ee from wrinkles, and he 
had a freshness in his countenance which would have 
warranted me in supposing him not more than forty-five 
or fifty. 

We were now conducted over the building, which 
'msisted of the refectory, in which the friars meet for 



205 KER'S TRAVELS'. 

breakfast, for receiving visitors, &:c. ; a large hall, which 
is made use of as a dining room, and a room in which 
Divine service is performed ^vhen the superior is unwell, 
whose room opens into it. The rooms are all simple in 
tiieir construction, being hung cither with black or blue 
cloth. The only furniture made use of is a few rush- 
bottomed chairs, and stools to pray upon. 

If the interior apartments which ar(^ used by die monks 
are simply furnished, the inside of tlie church makes am- 
ple amends, by the elegance and splendour of its decora- 
tions, which are profusely scattered over every part of it. 
It is a large and spacijDus room ; the gallery is supported 
by marble pillars, whiclf^are very line, and brought from 
a quany at some distance. Nearly in the centre is an 
cles-imt reading' desk, from which the monks hear a dis- 
course every Sunday ; it is of marble which has an exr 
quisitely smooth polish, and is supported by angels Of j 
solid silver with trumpets in their hands, representing the 
four winds. But the altar is superior to any thing I had 
ever seen in Europe ; it was of massive silver, and the 
railing enclosed a space of about thirty-six feet. In the 
centre stood a table covered with a cloth of gold, on 
whicli was placed a box inlaid with precious stones, con- 
taining the oil for extreme unction and the sacramental 
bread. Over the altar is a figure of the Virgin Mary 
dressed in a most superb manner, her robe being of cloth 
of gold, and richly studded with diamonds and pearls : 
on her head is a crown of jewels, which is very rich, and 
worth at least 10,000 pounds. In the niches are figures 
of the Apostles, dressed in rich robes of blue and green 
silk, Avith crowns on each of their heads. Up stairs there 
is a very fine organ, which however is out of repair, and 
has not been used for many years. 



KEIl*rTllAVELS. 207 

On returning to the refectory we found a cold collation, 
which had been prepared for us by the orders of tlie su- 
perior, who was very polite to us during the ^vhole of our 
stay. When we had eaten a slight repast, we mounted 
our Iprses and set forward for town, where we arrived 
about dark, and I retired to my lodgings much pleased 
widi my excursion. 

In the morning I visited some of the shops, which arc 
kept with great neatness, and make a very handsome 
show. They are principally stocked with light articles, 
which are brought by the convoys from Europe, such as 
silks, muslins, nankeens, &c. which are all of the first 
quality, and sold very cheap. I received information 
from the commandant that the caravan would start at 
night about twelve o'clock, accompanied by a request 
that I would spend the afternoon with him. I ordered 
Edom to get things in readiness to start, and proceeded 
to the commandant's house, where I was well entertmned 
until the hour came for my departure, when I bade my 
friends an affectionate adieu and left them. 

We met with nothirig remarkable during the first day's . 
travel, and encamped for the night in a rich and exten- 
sive meadow, which furnished ample pasturage for our 
horses and mules, whilst a stream of water refreshed us 
Avith a cooling draught. In the morning we proceeded, 
and about noon passed through the small town of Tzom- 
panco, which contains about 90 houses and 250 inhabi- 
tants ; here is a church, \vhich is built of brick dried in 
the sun. After proceeding about fifteen miles we en- 
camped for the night. 

In tlie morning we pursued our journey, and I had 
now leisure to observe the different persons who com- 



208 KBll'S TRAVELS. 

posed our cavalcade : I found tliem of a mixed kmci, 
some Spaniards, some Mexicans, and a few of the mix- 
ed breed. The principal part of them were going on for 
the purpose of trading, and had either horses or merchan- 
dize proper for trafficking. 

Among my fellow travellers there was one who was an 
Italian by birth, but had been some years in this country. 
His information was very extensive, and he had travelled 
in N^arious directions over the country. He informed me 
that the soil was fruitful, producing Indian corn, wheat, and 
many other kinds of grain, in abundance ; the native fruits 
he said were so plenty, that the inhabitants were not under 
the necessity of cultivating them. Many of the provin- 
ces through which he had travelled had the appearance of 
great wealth ; and the furniture and decorations of many 
of the houses were cosdy and magnificent. He likewise 
informed me he had visited a tribe of Indians called the 
Apaches, which he represented as a brave, warlike, reso- 
lute people, fond of liberty, and the inveterate enemies of 
tyranny and oppression. They had lately diought them- 
selves aggrieved, and had been very troublesome to the 
Spanish government ; they had done much mischief be- 
fore they submitted, but were now curbed by strong 
garrisons. He informed me that when the Spaniards 
first went among these Indians, they found them well, 
clothed, their lands cultivated, tlieir villages neat, and 
their houses built with stone ; their flocks were also nu- 
merous, and they lived more comfortably than most of 
the other savages ; as to their religion they were idolaters, 
and \vorshippcd the sun and moon, but whether they of- 
fered human sacrifices he did not know, although he. 
thought they did not. Many of thc^m are now Christians 



KER'S TRAVELS. 209 

Towards evening we arrived at a small village ealltd 
Huoxacac, where we remained all night. The village is 
small, but well built ; it contains about fifty houses, 
the most of which are built of brick or clay, and not more, 
than two or three of them over one story high. 

In the morning we again started, and calculated by 
evening to reach the city of Xilotepec. ^We this dav 
passed a number of small villages, in which nothing- 
worthy of notice was observed, and I shall therefore avoid 
particularizing until our arrival at the city of Xilotepec, 
which we reached about the middle of the afternoon. On 
our arrival I immediately ^vaitcd on a person to whom I 
had a letter from the commandant of Tula, and he di- 
rectly procured me lodgings in a pleasant and airy part of 
the town. 



CHAP. XX. 

Particular description of the city of Xilotepec — Religion 
— Government — Commerce — Excellence of the mq^r- 
kets — Description of the hall of audience — Prepara- 
tions for leaving this place for Mexico — Description 
of a natural bridge^ similar to that in Virginia described 
by Mr. Jefferson — Description of a cave — Description 
of the country through which the author passes — Ar- 
rival at Mexico. 

The city of Xilotepec is considered by the Spanish 
government as the capital of the province of the Otomies, 
ond lias many fine and even elegant buildings to recom- 

27 



210 KER'S TRAVELS. 

mend it to the attention of travellers. The streets are 
straight and regular, the principal terminating in three 
large squares, in which are fountains that supply the city 
with water the year round. These streets are lined with 
shops which make a very showy appearance, and do 
considerable business. The churches are numerous, and 
the cathedral is a very fine piece of architecture, built of 
stone, and of an ancient date ; the inside is very rich in 
its ornaments, but they are heavy and deficient in that 
elegance which would recommend them to the attention 
of the connoisseur. 

The government is herq administered altogether by 
tlie Spaniards, who monopolize all the most profitable 
branches of trade, and let it to the natives at a high price ; 
in their dealings they are not very honourable, and they 
never hesitate to take in a stranger. The principal trade 
is carried on with Mexico and Acapulco, the one being 
the capital of the country, and the other the seaport 
through which the communication is kept up between the 
different parts of the Spanish empire in America, and the 
East Indies. The commerce from Xilotepec to Aca- 
pulco must arrive at the latter place before the month 
of December, at which time the Great Galleon, attended 
by a large ship as a convoy, which forms the only com- 
munication between the Philippines and Mexico, annually 
arrives there. The cargoes of these ships, although they 
are forbidden to carry goods, consist of all the rich com- 
modities of the east. The annual ship from Lima arrives 
about the same time, and is generally supposed to have 
on board about two millions of pieces of eight in silver, 
besides quicksilver, and other valuable commodities, to 
be laid out in the purchase of the Galleon's cargoes. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 211 

Several other ships from different parts of the Spanish 
coast Hkewise arrive at this time, and a:n annual fair which 
lasts thirty days is held, when all the commodities of the 
world are bartered. This city, next to Mexico, has the 
largest share in this traffic, and it is said that in some sea- 
sons there has been 10,000 mules sent over, laden with 
the produce of the country. The trade with Mexico is 
less advantageous, and does not employ more than half as 
many mules. 

Near Xilotepec there is a beautiful river, which runs 
from southeast to northwest, and waters a considerable 
extent of territory. In this river are found small grains 
of gold, which are washed from the mountains ; a great 
number of the poor inhabitants are employed in collecting 
this gold, who sometimes find considerable quantities. 

The Spaniards ^vork a mine of copper which is situ- 
ated about a mile from the town, in which they employ 
their slaves, and those who are sentenced by the court for 
small crimes. This mine is not very productive, al- 
though it has been worked to the depth of about 120' 
feet. 

I waited on an American gentleman of the name of 
Lacour, whom I had known in New- Orleans. He had 
recently amved from Mexico, and informed me that 
there were some considerable distiu'bances in the city 
between the Spanish governor and. the people, but never- 
theless he considered the city safe for foreigners, particu- 
larly for Americans. He informed me that trade was 
very brisk in that city, and that it was hardly possible for 
me to fail of finding a ready market for my two horses. 
Indeed, their beauty had already attracted the notice of 
many gentlemen, and I had received t^vo or three liberal 



1 



^12 KER'S TRAVELS. 

offers for them, which I refused, determining not to sell 
till I reached Mexico, where I should be able to purchase 
mules much cheaper than here. 

This city is the see of an archbishop, who has an in- 
come of about six thousand pounds sterling. He is a 
Spaniard, of the order of Jesuits, and has been in the 
country about ten years. The inhabitants are very much 
attached to him, and they never pass him without taking 
off their hats. 

The markets of this city are excellent, and deserving 
of high commendation. There are three of them kept 
in streets near the large squares which have been already 
mentioned, one half of each of which is appropriated to 
flesh, and the other half to fish and vegetables. Eggs, 
butter, cheese, &c. of a good quality, may be bought 
here very cheap. The regulations of the market will not 
allow a person to dispose of any article before daylight, 
nor to stay in the market after 12 o'clock, as the heat 
is then such that the provisions might be injured. There 
is an appearance of regularity in their dealings, which ren- 
ders it probable that they have been accustomed to these 
regulations for some time. 

-There are a few .vineyards in the neighbourhood that 
produce a considerable quantity of grapes, from which a 
pleasant wine is made. It is my opinion that if the cul- 
ture of the grape was duly attended to, in a short time 
a large quantity of wine might be exported from this 
country ; but the indolence of the inhabitants is such 
th^t they will attend to no business which has not a con- 
nection with a gold mine. 

I visited, in company with Mr. Lacour and a Spanish 
gentleman, the hall of audience, as it is termed, where 



KER'S TRAVELS. 215 

the principal deputies of the province meet to render an 
account of their proceedings. The deputies are received 
by the chief clerk of the viceroy of Mexico. This is a 
spacious and elegant apartment, capable of holding one 
thousand persons. The room is fourteen feet high, and 
the ceiling covered with Spanish and INIexican banners. 
At the upper end of the hall is a chair raised on a throne 
of marble, which has an exquisite polish ; the chair is 
richly covered with a cloth of silver, and studded all over 
with gold nails. Over the chair is a canopy of purple 
velvet, which is deeply fringed \vith gold tissue. The 
seats on which the deputies sit are covered with red vel- 
vet. Behind the chair is the figure of the Virgin Mary 
in a rich gilt frame, which is the only picture in the 
chamber. I^ the centre of the room is a chandelier 
which has sixteen branches. The Spanish gentleman 
informed me that the deputies meet here only once in a 
3-ear, when they remain about three weeks, and that the 
rest of the time the hall is shut up, and never opened ex- 
cept upon particular request. 

For some days past I had been making arrangements 
to ' leave this place for Mexico. I called on the gentle- 
man to whom I had a letter from the commandant of 
Tula, and ^requested him to inform me of any one who 
was going on in a few days, as it would be more agreea- 
ble to travel with company than: alone. He assured me 
he would enquire, and did not doubt there were some 
going on who would be glad of receiving an addition to 
their cavalcade. 

Mv horses were bv this time in • excellent order and 

re the two finest I ever saw. ' I calculated that they 

Muld fetch me a high price. In this I was not disap- ' 



214 KER'S TRAVELS. 

pointed, as on my arrival I sold them to a Spanish gi'an- 
^e at my own price. 

In a few days my friend called on me ; he informed 
me that in three days there would be four gentlemen 
going on to Mexico, who would be very glad of my 
company, and with whom he had no doubt I should pass 
tlie time very agreeably. He mentioned that he was nOw 
gping into the country, near to some remarkable natural 
curiosities which would be ^vorthy my attention, and he 
requested me to accompany him. As I had nothing 
particular to detain me in town I accepted of his invita- 
tion, and we prepared to start the next morning. 

In the morning we started on mules, and proceeded 
directly to the mountains. The road was steep, and in 
many parts dangerous, owing to the pieces of rocks 
which had been broken off and lay in the fy\th. We 
saw nothing remarkable for the first day's journey, and 
put up about dark at the hut of a cowherd, who enter- 
tained us very hospitably. Being fatigued with our 
jounicy we soon retired to rest, and slept soundly until 
moi'ning. 

At the dawn of day we again started, and proceeded 
©ver steep and craggy cliffs, which were very sharp and 
difficult of being passed. My friend informed me that 
we were near to one of the most stupendous curiosities 
m that country, a view of which he considered worthy 
of the trouble and fatigue we had encountered in coming 
to it. In a few minutes more, on rising a high part of 
tlie mountain, 1 discovered a natural bridge, extending 
across from one mountain to the other, while in the valley 
ran a stream of clear water ; the distance across I judged 
lo be about 120 feet. I was struck witli the similaritv 



KER'S TRAVELS. 2lS 

between this bridge and the one described by Mr. Jeffer- 
son, in his Notes on Virginia, and which I had so often 
admired. It appeared to me to be as wide at the bottoxa 
as at the top, but the sublime appearance of it was eqaaS 
to the one seen in Virginia, In the centre of the bridge 
is a large rock which acts as a pier, reaching from the top 
to the bottom. I understood the bridge was often crossed 
by the mountaineers, in pursuit of their stray sheep, but 
I could not muster up resolution enough to venture. My 
companion now led me to the bottom of the biidgc^ 
where the view was as delightful as that from the top haJ, 
been painful and terrific. The hills, clothed with a few 
trees, and the blue sky, which can here but partially te 
seen, renders the scene one of the most pleasing ani 
beautiful I ever saw. 

We now passed on for about a mile, when my com- 
panion turned off to the right, and in a few minutes iM 
me to the mouth of a cave situated in the side of ilDac 
mountain. The entrance was much choaked with weed's^ 
and appeared not to have been entered for some tmre. 
It is in the steepest side of the mountain, and is -veiy 
difficult of access. We, however, succeeded in forcing 
our way, being provided with torches, from fireworks 
which we had brought with us. 

On entering the cave, we found the thermometer wMdla 
stood, at 70° rise in a few minutes to 76°, We contoi-. 
ued nearly in a horizontal direction, and found thalt alt 
branched out into many subordinate caverns, some mudk 
larger than others. The top was arched over, and (itp- 
peared to be formed of limestone, or some other poraas 
substance, as the water trickled constantly down the sides; 
of tlie cave, and had formed itself into elegant drapery ; 



216 REUS TRAVELS, 

while that which trickled from above formed stalactites 
of a conical form, which had a handsome appearance. 

We proceeded slo\vly forward until we had reached 
the distance of about 400 feet from the mouth of the 
cave, when we came to a small pond of water which was 
about ten yards in circumference. I threw a stone into 
this pond, which produced a rumbling noise throughout 
the cavern. As our light was nearly extinguished, and 
we could not with safety proceed any further, we re- 
turned with all speed. When we arrived at the mouth 
of the cave we found the sun for past the meridian, and 
hastened to return to the hut of the hospitable cowherd, 
who entertained us the night before. On our return he 
prepa^ for us a comfortable bed, and in the morning 
\vt agSn set forward, and reached town early in the after- 
noon. 

The next morning I was called upon by one of my 
fellow travellers, who informed me that they would call 
for me in the afternoon. I expressed myself entirely sat- 
isfied, and about.three o'clock we set out on our jour- 
ney. We travelled this day through a beautiful country, 
which was well watered and very fertile. I saw many 
large herds of cattle, which are here fed by the natives 
and fitted for the Mexican market. At the time this 
Country was discovered it produced neither hogs, sheep, 
cattle, nor any other domestic animal. Columbus car- 
ried some of these animals to St. Domingo, from whence 
they were brought to Mexico, where they ha^'e multiplied 
^prodigiously. They now count their horned cattle by 
thousands, and their skins have become a considerable 
object for exportation. 

In the evening we encamped in a fertile plain, and 



KER'S TRAVELS. 217 

were regaled with the music of the birds until a late hour, 
when I sunk in sleep. The next morning we pursued 
our journey. We passed through several small villages 
which were seated on the sides of the mountain, and 
about noon arrived at the handsome town of Chiompo- 
razo, which is well built, and contains many handsome 
houses ; it has a population of about six thousand per- 
sons. The streets are crooked and narrow, which gives 
the place a disadvantageous appearance. The inhabit- 
ants are industrious, and carry on a considerable manu- 
facture of silk, although they are not much encouraged 
by the government, which is jealous of this manufacture, 
and for some political reasons throw many obstruction^ 
in the way of it. 

We remained here all night, and in the morning pro- 
ceeded. The roads now became more level, and we 
travelled with rnuch more ease than formerly. This be- 
ing the great road to Mexico, it is kept with more 
care and better regulation than any other in New- Spain. 
Each traveller has to pay a small toll as he passes, at the 
distance of about ten leagues. 

We met with nothing remarkable, or worthy of notice, 
until we aiTived at the small town of Lasca, which is sit- 
uated on the side of a hill, and is a pleasant and thriving 
little town. The inhabitants are about 700 in number, 
and manufacture baize in some considerable quantity. 
They have large flocks of sheep, which graze on the 
mountains ; but their wool is much coarser than that of 
our northern sheep, which is, however, the case in all 
warm climates. We travelled until a late hour this 
night, as we ^vished to reach Mexico the next day if pos 

sible. 

^ 28 



218 KER'S TRAVELS. 

About noon the next day I had an agreeable view of tlie 
lake Tetzuco, on an island in which stands the city of Mex- 
ico. It has of late undergone soncie considerable improve- 
ments, which are much for the benefit of the city ; a ca- 
nal has been dug, which drains the lower lake, and se- 
cures the city from those inundations which were so fre- 
quent, owing to the lake being the reservoir of all the 
water which flows from the different mountains. The 
appearance of the city was grand and magnificent, it be- 
ing almost entirely surrounded with water, and the lofty 
spires of its churches, glittering in the sun, rendered the 
sight truly pleasing. As we descended the mountain we 
lost sight of the city. Our road was now winding 
through a valley, which was rendered gay by the vine- 
yards, houses for pleasure and amusement, cottages, &c. 
which were scattered over the scene, and so agreeably 
employed us that we did not reach the city before it be- 
came dark. 



CHAP. XXI. 

General description of Mexico — Extent — Population — - 
Elegance of its churches — Description of the church 
of St. Antonio — Elegance of the buildings — Commerce 
of Mexico — General account of its inhabitants. 

On my arrival in Mexico, one of the gentlemen with 
whom I had travelled soon procured me lodgings that 
wQ-e neat and comfortable, and in a few hours I found 



KER'S TRAVELS. 219 

myself as much at home as though I had been brought 
up there. I found the city flir to exceed any thing I had 
conceived of its grandeur and magnificence. The build- 
ings were lofty, and the architecture of many of them 
executed in a manner that leaves them very little inferior 
to any in Europe. The streets are regular and well laid 
out. There are nineteen public squares, which are spa- 
cious and have fountains of water in their centre. A- 
round these squares are placed shops, coffee-houses, and 
bilUard-rooms, which render them the resort of the most 
fashionable and wealthy part of the inhabitants. One of 
these billiard-rooms is so large that it can accommodate 
two hundred people with ease, and has twelve billiiird- 
tables. The coilee-houses ^re the places to which the 
Spaniards resort after dinner, to drink coffee, punch, &c. : 
they have become very numerous in Mexico. 

The exact circumference of the city I cannot give 
with precision, as authors differ much in their accounts, 
and Spaniards and Mexicans never agree in that particu- 
lar at the present day ; but I am induced to believe that 
it is about ten miles in circumference, and that it con- 
tains about 250,000 inhabitants. 

The Abbe Clavegero, in his History of Mexico, dates 
the foundation of the this city as far back as 1325. It 
was the residence of the kings of the Mexican empire 
from its foundation, and upon the first arrival of the 
Spaniards in this country they were much surprised at 
the neatness and regularity of its appearance, and the 
magnificence of its buildings. It has suffered greatly in 
the different struggles which have been made by the 
Mexicans for their liberty, but has always been consider 
^ as the capital of the empire. 



220 KER'S TRAVELS. 

Some of the churches are built with surprising neat- 
ness and regularity, and the inside work is not only ex- 
tremely rich, but elegant. The church of St. Antonio 
is deserving of particular notice. It stands in the square 
of the same name ; its front is supported by twelve large 
pillars of beautiful marble of the corinthian order, with 
ionic capitals. The church is entirely of white marble. 
Directly over the portico is a figure of St. Anthony, the 
patron saint, dressed in a superb manner, and having in 
his hand a cross set with diamonds ; it is asserted by the 
monks that they are real diamonds, but others, with some 
authority, say that they are notliing but false ones made 
of glass. 

The inside of the churCh is adorned with a number of 
superb columns of marble, some of the ionic and some of 
the corinthian order, and all having their bases richly 
gilt. The ceiling is painted in a very neat and handsome 
manner, representing some of the most interesting scenes 
in the history of our Saviour ; the paintings are said to 
have been executed by a native Mexican who had never 
studied the art ; they are by no means a contemptible 
performance. 

The altar is very rich and splendid, and far surpasses 
that of the court chapel in Madrid, which is said to have 
cost eighty thousand pounds sterling ; the railing is of 
hoYid silver,' about forty feet in length, forming an exact 
half moon ; at each end is an angel as large as life, of 
silver ; in the centre is a chandelier with twelve branches, 
>vhich is supported by the angels. The entrance into the 
altar is by a gate, made in the form of a cross, with a 
cro^vn of thorns on the top, set in rubies. The railing 
has a covering over it except on particular occasions. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 221 

When I saw it, high mass was performed by the arch- 
bishop, with great magnificence ; the robes in which he 
was dressed on that occasion \vere very rich and costly, 
and the number of monks who composed the processior^ 
amounted to about two hundred. The lights which were 
then burning in golden candlesticks, reached to the height 
of twenty feet, and formed an exact triangle ; they had a 
beautiful and elegant appearance. 

The greatest curiosity in the city of Mexico is the 
floating gardens, which are particularly described by the 
Abbe Clavegero. Their origin is dated as far back as 
the year 1325, when the Mexicans were subdued by the 
Columan and Tepecan nations. Their construction is 
simple, and they are thus described by Clavegero. " They 
take willows and the roots of marsh plants, and other ma- 
terials which are light, and twist them together, and so 
firmly unite them as to form a sort of platform which is 
capable of supporting the earth of the garden. Upon 
this foundation they lay the light bushes which float on 
the lake, and overspread the mud and dirt which they 
draw up from the bottom of the lake. Their regular 
figure is c^iadrangular ; their length and breadth various, 
but generally about eight rods long and three wide ; and 
their ejevation from the surface of the water is less than a 
foot. These were the first fields which the Mexicans 
owned after the foundation of Mexico ; there they first 
cultivated the maize, great pepper, and other plants ne- 
cessary for their support. At present they cultivate no- 
tliing but garden herbs arid flowers. Every day of the 
year, at sunrise, innumerable vessels or boats, loadjed 
=with various herbs, flowers,. 8cc. which are culti\'atcd in 
*^rse gardens, are seen arriving^ by the canal at the great 



222 KER'S TRAVELS. 

market place of Mexico. All plants thrive here siirpri-- 
singly ; the mud of the lake makes a very rich soil, 
which requires no water from the clouds. In the largest 
gardens there is commonly a little tree and a little hut to 
shelter the cultivator from the sun. When the owner of 
a garden, or the chimaka, as he is called, wishes to 
r.hange his situation, to get out of a bad neighbourhood, 
or to come nearer his family, he gets into his little boat^, 
and by his own strengtli alone, if the garden is small, or 
with the assistance of others if it is large, conducts 
it wherever he pleases, with the little hut and tree upon 
h." 

The buildings of Mexico arc mosdy of stone, and are 
very airy and elegant. Many of those which are of 
modern date are very high. The archiepiscopal palace, 
which has been lately, erected, is six stories high, and 
built of white stone resembling marble. 

The trade of Mexico consists of three great branches, 
which extend over the whole world. It carries on a 
traffic with Europe by Le Vera Cruz, which is situated 
on the gulf of Mexico, on the North sea, and is styled 
by some the gi'and port of Mexico or Ne^v-Spain ; it is 
said to have a safe harbour, and is considered one of the 
most considerable places of trade, being the centre of the 
American treasure, and the magazine for all the mer- 
chandize sent from New- Spain, or tha,t is transported 
thither from Europe. It is by means of this port that 
Mexico is enabled to pour her wealth over the whole 
world, and receive in return the numberless luxuries 
and necessaries which Europe affords. To this port 
the fleet from Cadiz, called the flota, consisting of three 
men of war as a convoy, and fourteen large merchant 



KER'S TRAVELS. 223 

•^hips, annually arrive about the beginning of November, 
Its cargo consists of almost every commodity and manu- 
facture of Europe ; and there are few nations but have 
anore concern in it than the Spanish, ^vho send out little 
except wine and oil. 

Notwithstanding what has been said respecting the 
cities of Acapulco and Vera Cruz, the city of Mexico 
ought to be considered as the centre of commerce in this 
part of the world ; for here the principal merchants re- 
side, and the greatest part of the business is negociated. 
Tfie East India goods from Acapulco, and the European 
from Vera Cruz, pass through this city. Hither also^ 
the gold and silver are sent to be coined ; here the king's 
fifth is deposited, and here are wrought all those utensils 
and ornaments in plate, which are every year sent into 
Europe. 

The principal inhabitants of the city of Mexico arc 
Spaniards, who are obliged to aspire to some ecclesiasti- 
cal, civil, or military employment, to prove that there 
have been neither heretics, Jews, Mahometans, nor any 
persons, in their family, who have been called before the 
inquisition for four generations. 

Merchants, who are desirous of going to Mexico, as- 
well as to other parts of Spanish America, without be- 
coming colonists, are compelled to observe the same 
forms ; they are also obliged to swear that they have 
three hundred palms of merchandise, their own property, 
in the fleet in which they embark, and that they will not 
take their wives with them. On these conditions tliey 
become the principal agents of the European commerce 
with the Indies. Though their charter is to continue 
onlv for three years, and a little longer for countries 



224 KER'S TRAVELS. 

more remote, it is of great importance. To them alone 
belong the right of selling, as commissioners, the major 
part of the cargo. 

There are, however, a large class of men who are ex- 
cluded from all public stations, and are called Creoles. 
The descendants of the companions of Cortez, having 
been constantly excluded from all places of trust that 
-.were in any degree considerable, have seen the gradual 
decay of the power that supported their fathers. The 
habit of bearing that contempt with which they have 
been treated, has at last made them become really con- 
temptible. They have totally lost, in the vices which 
originate from the heat of the climate, from indolence, 
and from a superfluous enjoyment of all things, that 
firmness and that sort of pride which have ever charac- 
terized their nation. Luxury, shameful pleasures and 
intrigues, have enervated all the vigour of their minds, 
while a blind superstition has completed their degradation. 
Being blindly devoted to priests who are too ignorant to 
enlighten them by their instructions, too depraved to edi- 
fy them by their example, and too mercenary to attend- 
to both these duties of their functions, they have no at- 
tachinent to any part of their religion but that which en- 
feebles the mind, and have neglected what might have 
contributed to rectify their morals. 

Before leaving the Mexican empire I made some par- 
ticular enquiries into the natural history of the country, 
its productions, rivers, towns, population, and the general 
character of the inhabitants ; in these researches I was 
much assisted by a Spanish Jesuit priest, who was a man 
of information, and able to furnish me with many valua- 



KER'S TRAVELS. 2?5 

ble particulai's, which I have thrown together under one 
general head, in order to avoid a repetition. 



&HAP. XXII. 

Situation of the Mexicaii empire — Divisions — Descrip- 
tion of the vale of Mexico — CUmate — Volcanoes — 
Rivers — Lakes — Mineral productions. 

Xhe Mexican empire is situated between 9** and 40** 
north latitude, and 18° and 50'' west longitude. Its length 
is 2000 miles, and breadth 1600. It is bounded on the 
north by unknown regions ; on the east by the gulf of 
Mexico ; on the south by the isthmus of Darien, which 
separates it from Terra Firma, in South America ; and 
on the west by the Pacific ocean. 

This vast country is divided into three grand divisions, 
Which are, Mexico, New- Mexico proper, and California, 
lying on the west. 

The ancient country of Mexico, properly so called, 
was divided into several provinces, of which the vale of 
Mexico was the finest in every respect. This vale is 
surrounded by verdant mountains, measuring upwards ot 
one hundred and twenty miles in circumference at their 
base. A great part of the vale is occupied by two lakes, 
the upper one of fresh water, but the lower one brackish., 
and communicating with the former by means of a canal. 
All the water which runs from the mountains is collected 
in the lower lake, on account of its being at the botton* 

29 



226 KER'S TRAVELS. 

of the valley ; hence it was ready, when swelled by extra- 
ordinary rains, to overflow the city of Mexico. This de- 
lightful region contained the three imperial cities of 
Mexico, Acolbuacan, and Tlacopan ; besides forty 
others, with innumerable villages and hamlets ; but the 
most considerable of these, according to Clavegero, 
Scarce contain one twentieth part of their former mag- 
nificence. 

The climate of this vast country varies much, accord- 
ing to the situation of its different parts. The maritime 
places are hot, unhealthy, and moist ; the heat being so 
great as to cause people to sweat, even in the month of 
January. This heat is supposed to be owing to the flat- 
ness of the coasts, and the accumulation of sand upon 
them. The moisture arises from the vast evaporation 
from the sea, as well as from the great torrents of water 
descending from the mountains. The lands which lie in 
the neighbourhood of high mountains, the tops of which 
are always covered with snow, must of necessity be cool ; 
and Clavegero informs us that he has been on a mountain 
not more than twenty-five miles distant from the city of 
Mexico, where there was white frost and ice even in dog 
days. 

" All the other inland countries," says the author just 
mentioned, "where the greatest population prevailed, 
enjoy a climate so mild and sublime, that they neither 
feel the rigour of winter nor the heat of summer. It is 
ti'ue that in many of the countries there is frequently 
white frost in the three months of December, January^ 
and February, and sometimes it even snows ; but the 
small inconvenience which such cold occasions continues 
only till the rising sun ; ^o other fire than his ravs isF 



KER'S TRAVELS. 227 

necessary to give warmth in winter ; no other rehef is 
wanted in the season of heat but tlie shade. The same 
clothing which covers men in the dog days, defends 
them in January, and the animals sleep all the year under 
the open sky. 

'' This mildness and agreeableness of climate under 
the torrid zone, is the result of several natural causes 
entirely unknown to the ancients, who did not believe it 
inhabited, and not well understood by some moderns, by 
whom it is believed to be unfavourable to those who live 
in it. The purity of the atmosphere, the smaller obli- 
quity of the solar rays, and the longer stay of this lumina- 
ry above the horizon in winter, in comparison of other 
regions farther removed from the equator, concur to les- 
sen the cold and to prevent all that horror which disfig- 
ures the face of nature in other climes. During that 
season a serene sky and the natural delights of the coun- 
try are enjoyed ; whereas under the frigid, and even for 
the most part under the temperate zones,_ the clouds rob 
man of the prospect of heaven, and the snow buries the 
beautiful productions of the earth. 

" No less causes combine to temper the heat of the 
summer. The plentiful showers which frequently water 
the earth after mid- day from April or May, to September 
or October; the high mountains continually loaded with 
snow, scattered here and there through the country of 
Anhuae ; the cold winds which breathe from them in 
that season ; and the shorter stay of the sun above the 
horizon, compared with the circumstances of the tenipe- 
rate zone, transform the climes of those happy countries 
into a cool and cheerful spring. 

^^ But the agreeableness of tjje climate is counterbr\lan 



228 KER'S TRAVELS. 

eed by thunder-storms, which are frequent in summer, 
particularly in the neighbourhood of the mountain of 
Ilascala ; and by earthquakes, which are at all times felt, 
though with less danger than terror. Storms of hail are 
neither more frequent nor more severe than in Eng- 
land.'' 

One undoubted inconvenience which Mexico has, is 
that of volcanoes, of which Clavegero enumerates five. 
One, called by the Spaniards Volcou D'Orizaba, is high- 
er than the peake of Teneriffe, according to the account 
of the Jesuit Tallandier, who measured them both. It 
began to send forth smoke in the year 1545, when it 
continued burning for twenty years, but has not discov- 
ered any symptoms of eruption since that time. It is of 
a conical figure, and by reason of its great height may be 
seen at the distance of fifty leagues. The top is always 
covered with snow, but the lower part by pine and other 

valuable timber. It lies about ninetv miles to the east- 

</ ' ■ 

ward of the capital. 

Two other mountains, named Kopscatepee and Iz- 
taccihuatl, which lie near each other, at the distance of 
thirty- three miles to the southeast of Mexico, are likewise 
surprisingly high. Clavegero supposes the former to be 
higher than the highest of the Alps, considering the ele- 
• vated ground on which the base of it stands. It has a 
crater more than half a mile wide ; from which, in the 
time of the Mexican kings, great quantities of smoke and 
flame issued. In the last century it frequently tlirew out 
great showers of ashes upon the places adjacent ; but in 
the present century hardly any smoke has been observed. 
This mountain is named by the Spaniards Volcou, and 
the other Sierra Nevada ythe latter has also sometimes 



KER'S TRAVELS. 229 

emitted flames. Both of these mountains have their tops 
always covered with snow in such quantities, that the 
masses which fall down upon the neighbouring rocks sup- 
ply the cities of Mexico, Gelspoli, Choluda, and all the 
adjacent country for the distance of forty miles, with that 
commodity, of which the consumption in the city of 
Mexico was so great in 1812, that the impost on the ar- 
ticle for that year amounted to about thirty- six thousand 
crowns. 

Besides these, there are the two mountains of Coliman 
and Tachtlau, both of which have occasionally emitted 
flames. 

Clavegero does not include in the list of Mexican vol- 
canoes, either those of Nicaragua or Guatimala, because 
these countries w^ere not subject, to the Mexican sove- 
reigns. Those of Guatimala sometimes break forth in a 
most furious manner, and in the year 1773 entirely de- 
stroyed that beautiful city. The Nicaragua volcano 
called Jurugo, was only a small hill before the year 1 760. 
In that year, however, on the 29th of September, it began 
to burn with furious explosions, ruining entirely the su- 
gar works, and the neighbouring village of Guacara ; 
and from that time continued to emit fire and broken 
rocks in such quantities, that in six years the erupted 
matter had formed itself into three high mountains neai'ly 
six miles in circumference. During the time of the first 
eruption, the ashes were carried as far as the city of Que- 
retaro, ^vhich is one hundred and fifty miles distant from 
the volcano ; and at Valladolid, distant sixty miles from 
it, die shower was so abundant that the people ^vere oblir 
ged to sweep their house yards t\Ao or three times in a 



P 



230 KER'S TRAVELS. 

Besides these volcanoes, there are other mountains in 
Mexico of a very remarkable height. The great chain 
called the Andes are continued through the isthmus of 
Panama, and through all Mexico, until they are lost in 
the unknown mountains of the north. The most con- 
siderable of that chain is known in Mexico by the name 
of Sierra Madre, particularly that part of it situated in 
Cinalo and Tanahumara, provinces no less than one 
thousand two hundred miles distant from the capital. 

Mexico is well watered by very considerable rivers, 
though none of them are comparable to those of South 
America. Some of these rivers empty into the gulf of 
Mexico, and others into the Pacific ocean. The Alva- 
rado has its principal source among the mountains of the 
Zapotecas, and discharges itself by three navigable 
mouths into the Mexican gulf, at the distance of thirty 
miles from Vera Cruz. The Coatzocualco rises among 
the mountains of the Mixtecas, and empties itself into 
the gulf near the country of Onbualco. The river Chia- 
pan, which likewise runs into this gulf, rises among the 
mountains which separate the district of Chiapan from 
that of Guatimala. The Spaniards call this river Tabas- 
co, by which name they also call that tract of land which 
unites Yucatan to the Mexican continent. This tract 
M^as also called Grijalva, from the name of the command- 
er of the Spanish fleet who discovered it. 

The most celebrated of the rivers which run into the 
Pacific ocean, is that which is called by the Spaniards 
Gaudalaxara, or Great river. It rises in the mountains 
of Tolocan, and after running a course of more than six 
hundred miles, discharges itself into the ocean in 22* 
north latitude. «» 



KER'S TRAVELS. 231 

•♦ 

There are likewise in this country several lakes of very 
considerable magnitude, but those of Nicaragua, Cha- 
pallau, and Pizquorro, which are of the greatest extent, 
did not belong to the ancient Mexican empire. The 
most remarkable were those in the vale of Mexico, in 
which the capital of the empire was founded. Of these, 
the fresh water one, called tlie lake of Chalco, extended 
in length from east to west twelve miles, as far as the 
city of Xochiwiles ; from thence, taking a northerly 
direction, it incorporates itself by means of a canal with 
lake Tetzuco ; but its breadth does not exceed six miles. 
The other of these lakes, lake Tetzuco, formerly ex- 
tended fifteen, or rather seventeen miles from east to 
west, and something more from north to south ; but its 
extent is now much less, by reason of the Spaniards 
having diverted the course of many of the streams which 
formerly ran into it. The water of this lake is salt, which 
Clavegero supposes to be owing to the nature of the soil 
which forms its bed. 

Besides these there are a number of smaller lakes,, 
some of which are very delightful. There are a vast 
variety of mineral waterJj, of the nitrous, sulphureous^^ 
and aluminous kinds, some of them so hot that meat 
might be boiled in them. At Tetuhuacan is a kind of 
petrifying water, as well as in several other parts of the 
empire. One of them forms a kind of smooth white 
stone, not unpleasant to the taste, Xht scrapings of 
which, taken in broth, are celebrated as a diaphoreticj 
probably without any good reason ; the dose for a person, 
not difficult to sweat, is one drachm of the scrapings. 
Many of the rivers of Mexico afford surprising and beau- 
*ifvi.l cascades, particularly the great river Gaudalaxara 



232 KEIl'S TRAVELS. 

*'- 

at a place called Tempizque, fifteen miles to the south- 
ward of that city. Along a deep river called Aytoyaquey 
is a natural bridge consisting of a vast mound of earth, 
along which carriages pass conveniently. Clavegero 
supposes it to have been the fragment of a mountain, 
thrown down by an earthquake, and then penetrated by 
the river. 

The mineral productions of Mexico are very valuable. 
The natives found gold in several provinces of the 
empire. They gathered it principally from among the 
sands of their rivers, in grains, and the people in whose 
country it was found, were obliged to pay a certain part 
of it, by way of tribute, to the emperor. They dug silver 
out of the mines in Tlachco, and some other countries ; 
'•but it was less prized by them than by other nations. 
Since the conquest, however, so many silver mines have 
been discovered, in that country, especially in the provin- 
ces to the northwest of the capital, that it is in vain to at- 
tempt an enumeration of them. They had two sorts of 
copper, one kind of which was so hard as to serve them 
instead of iron, to make axes, and other instruments, for 
war and agriculture ; the other kind, which was soft and 
flexible, served for domestic purposes, as with us. They 
had likewise tin from the mine of Tlachco, and dug lead 
out of mines in the country of the Otomies, but we are 
not informed what use they made of this last metal. They 
had also mines of iron in Tlascala, Tlachco, and some 
other places ; but these were either unknown to the 
Mexicans, or they did not know how to benefit them- 
selves by them. In Chilapan were mines of quicksilver ; 
and in many places they had sulphur, alum, cinnabar, 
ochre, and an earth greatly resembling white paint. 



M 



^^ 



KER'S TRAVELS. 233 

^These minerals were employed in painting and dying, 
but we know not to what use they put their quicksilver. 
There was great abundance of amber and asphaltos upon 
their coasts, both of which were paid in tribute to the 
eniperor of Mexico, from many ports of the empire ; 
the former was wont to be set in gold by way of orna- 
ment, and asphaltos was employed in their sacrifices. 

Mexico produces some diamonds, though but few in 
number ; but they have in great plenty some other pre- 
cious stones, such as amethysts, cat's-eyes, turquoises, 
cornelians, and some green stones resembling emeralds, 
and very little inferior to them, of all which a tribute was 
paid to the emperor, by the people in whose temtories 
they were found. They were likewise furnished with 
crystal in plenty from the mountains which lie on the * 
coast of the Mexican gulf, between the port of Vera 
Cruz and the river Chinquionquiaco. In the mountains of 
Celpolalon, to the eastward of Mexico, are quarries of 
jasper and marble, of different colours ; they have like- 
wise alabaster at a place called Tecalco, now Tecula, in 
the neighbourhood of the province of Tapeyacac, and 
many other parts of the empire. The stone tetzortii is 
generally of a dark red colour, pretty hard, porous, and 
light ; it unites most firmly with lime and sand, and on 
that account it is in great demand for building in the capi-^ 
tal where the foundation is bad. There is a large moun- 
tain of loadstone lying between Tesitzlau and Chilapan, 
in the country of the Cohuixcas. They formed curious 
figures of .nepliritic stone, some of which are still pre 
served in European museums. 

In this country they have a kind of fine talc, which 
^^iirns into an excellent plaister, and with which tliev 

.SO 



9.34 KER'S TRAVELS. 

whiten their paintings. But the most useful stone they 
have is called itzli, of which there is great abundance in 
many parts of Mexico. It has a glossy appearance, is 
generally of a black colour, though sometimes found of 
a blue or white, and is semi-transparent. In South 
America the stone is called pictra del golinarro ; and 
Count Caylus endeavours to show, in a manuscript dis- 
sertation quoted by Bomore, that the obsidiona of which 
the ancients made their vores murrica, were exactly simi- 
lar to this stone. The Mexicans make of it looking- 
glasses, knives, lancets, razors, and spears. Sacred uses 
have been made of it since the introduction of Chris- 
tianity; 



CHAP. XXIII. 

Soil of Mexico — Variety oj its vegetable productions — - 
Luxurious growth of its forest trees — Description of 
the trees which produce liquid amber — Description of 
the animals peculiar to Mexico — Great variety of 
birds. 

The soil of Mexico, though various, produces every 
where the necessaries, and even the luxuries of life. 
The Abbe Spolatro, who lately travelled through the 
country, and who is an eminent botanist, enumerates in 
his writings upwards of two thousand seven hundred 
plants which are peculiar to this country ; and states it 
us his opinion that there are nearly as many more, whiclj^ 



KER'S TRAVELS. . 235 

are esteemed, some for their flowers, some for their fruits, 
some for their leaves, some for their roots, some for their 
trunk, or their wood, and others for their gum, resin, oil, 
or juice. 

Mexico abounds with a great variety of flowers, many 
of which are peculiar to the country, while multitudes 
of others, imported from Europe and Asia, rival in lux- 
^uriance the plants of the native country. 

The fruits are some of them natives of the Canary 
islands, and others of Spain, besides those which are the 
natural growth of the country. The exotics are water- 
melons, apples, pears, peaches, quinces, apricots, pome- 
granates, figs, black cherries, walnuts, almonds, olives, 
chesnuts, and grapes ; though these last are likewise na- 
tives. There are two kinds of wild vine found in the 
country, one of which resembles the common vine in 
its shoots and in the figure of its leaves ; . it pro- 
duces large red grapes, covered with a hard skin, 
but of a sweet and grateful taste, which w^puld undoubt- 
edly greatly improve by culture. The grape of the other 
kind is large, hard, and of a harsh taste, but they make 
an excellent conserve of it. 

Clavegero is of opinion that the cocoa ti*ee, plantain, 
citron, orange, and lemon, came fi'om the Philippine and 
Canary islands ; but it is certain that these, as well as 
other trees, thrive in this country as well as in their native 
soil. 

All the maritime parts of the country abound with co- 
coanut trees. They have seven kinds of oranges, and 
five of lemons ; they have likewise four kinds of plantains, 
the largest of which, called the zapala, is from fifteen to 
i wenty inches long, and about three in diameter ; it i;^' 



'236 KEKS TRAVELS, 

hard, but little esteemed, and only eaten when roasted or 
boiled. The platano largo, or large plantain, is about 
eight inches long and one and a half in diameter ; the 
skin is at first green, but becomes blackish when perfectly 
ripe. The guirco is a smaller fruit, but richer, softer, 
and more delicious, though not so wholesome. A spe- 
cies of plantain called the dominico, is smaller and more 
delicate than the others. There are whole woods of plan» 
tain trees, oranges, and lemons ; and the people of Mi- 
chuacan carry on a considerable trade with the dried 
plantains, which are preferable either to raisins or figs. 

The Abbe Spolatro enumerates thirty-eight different 
species of fruit, natives of Mexico, besides many others, 
the names of which are not mentioned. 

Hernandez, another writer, mentions four kinds of 
cocoa, the smallest kind of which was in the most use, for 
making chocolate and other drinks daily made use ofj 
the other kinds served rather for money in commerce than, 
for aliment. The cocoa was one of the plants most cul- 
tivated in the countries of the empire, and many of the 
provinces paid their tribute to the emperor in this article, 
particularly that of Xoconocho, the cocoa of which was 
particularly esteemed. 

Cotton was one of the most valuable productions of the 
country, as it served instead of flax, though this last arti- 
cle was also produced in the country : it is of two kinds, 
the white and tawny coloured. 

The inhabitants of this country make use of rocou, or 
Brazil-wood, in their dying, as do also the Europeans, 
Cordage is made of the bark of the same tree, and the 
ivood is also made use of to produce fire by friction. 

The principal grain of Mexico, before the introduce 



KER'S TRAVELS. 237 

tion of that article from Europe, was maize, called by the 
Mexicans tluslis, of which there were several kinds, dif- 
fering in size, weight, colour, and taste. This kind of 
grain was brought from Mexico to Spain, and from Spain 
to other countries of Europe. 

The French bean was the principal kind of pulse 
in use among them, of which there were more species 
than of the maize : the largest was called ayacotli, which 
was of the size of the common bean, and had a beautiful 
red flower ; but the most esteemed was the small black, 
heavy French bean. This kind of pulse, which is not 
good in Italy, is in Mexico so excellent that it not only 
serves for sustenance to the poorer class of people, but is 
esteemed a luxury by the Spanish nobility. 

Of the excellent roots of Mexico, the following were 
the most remarkable : the xicama, called by the Mexi- 
cans catzotl ; this root is about the size and shape of an 
onion, solid, fresh, juicy, and of a white colour ; it is 
always eaten raw. The camate is another kind very 
common in the country, of which there are three sorts, 
white, yellow, and purple ; this kind is best when boiled. 
The cacomite is the root of a plant which has a beautiful 
flower called the tiger-flower, with three red pointed 
petals, the middle part mixed with white and red, some- 
what resembling the spots of the animal from which it 
takes its name. The huacamate is the root of a kind of 
cassavi plant, and is likewise boiled. The papa, a root 
which has been transplanted into Europe and greatly ad- 
mired for its delicacy and good flavour, was brought frorn 
South America into Mexico. Besides these ^^ hich have 
been mentioned, they liave a great numlicr of kitchen 



238 KER'S TRAVELb, 

vegetables, imported from the Canaries, Spain, and other 
countries of Europe. 

The American aloe is very similar to the real one, and 
is a plant of which the Mexicans did formerly, and the 
Spaniards do at present, make great use. 

They have in this country a variety of palm trees, from 
the fibres of which tliey make thread : the bark of some 
of them, to the depth of three fingers, is a mass of mem> 
branes, of which the poor people make mats : the leaves 
of others are used as ornaments at tlieir festivals ; they 
are round, gross, white, and shining, and have the ap- 
pearance of shells heaped one upon another. A fourth 
kind bears nuts called escoas, or nuts of oil ; these nuts 
are of the size of a nutmeg, having in the inside a white, 
oily, eatable kernel, covered by a thin purple pellicle« 
The oil has a sweet scent, and is easily condensed, when 
it becomes a soft mass, as white as snow. 

Of timber trees there are a great variety, not inferior 
to any in the world ; ahd as there are a variety of climates 
in the country, every one produces a kind of wood pe- 
culiar to itself. There are whole woods of cedars, and 
ebonies ; vast quantities of agallochum, or wood of 
aloes ; besides others, valuable on account of their weight, 
durability, and hardness, or for their being easily cut, 
pliable, of a fine colour, or an agreeable smell. There 
are also in Mexico, innumerable trees remarkable for their 
size. Acosta, mentions a cedar, the trunk of which was 
sixteen fathoms in circumference ; and I measured one 
which was one hundred and ten feet in length. In the 
city of Mexico I saw tables capable of accommodating 
twenty persons, made out of a single plank. In the 
valley of Atlixco is a very large fir tree, which would 



KER'S TRAVELS. 239 

Conveniently hold fourteen horsemen ; nay, we are in- 
formed by the archbishop of Toledo, that in 1770 he 
went to view it along with the archbishop of Gautamala, 
at which time he caused a hundred young lads to enter its 
cavity. Our author mentions some other trees of the 
species called ceiba, which for magnitude may be com- 
pared with this celebrated fir : " The largeness of these 
trees," says he, " is proportioned to their prodigious ele- 
vation, and they afford a most delightful prospect at the 
time they are adorned with new leaves, and loaded with 
fruit, in which there is enclosed a particular species of 
fine white cotton ; this might be, and perhaps is made 
into webs as soft, delicate, and perhaps more so than silk ; 
but it is toilsome to spin, on account of the smallness of 
the threads, and the profit does not requite the labour, 
the web not being lasting. Some use it for pillows, and 
matrasses, which have the singular property of expanding 
enormously when exposed to the heat of the sun." 
De Bomane says, ** That the Africans make of the 
thread of the ceiba, that vegetable taffeta which is so 
scarce and so much esteemed in Europe. The scarcity 
of such cloth is not to be wondered at, considering tlie 
difiiculty of making it. The ceiba is higher than all 
other trees yet known.'* 

The tree producing liquid amber, the liquid storax of 
the Mexicans, is of a large size ; the leaves are similar 
to those of the maple, indented, white in one part and 
dark in tlie other, disposed of threes ; the fruit is thorny 
and round, but polygonal, with the surface and thcr 
angles yellow ; the bark of the tree partly green and 
partly tawney. By incision in the trunk, they extract 
ihnt A-aUiable substance named liquid amber, and the oil 



i240 ^ KER'S TRAVELS. 

of the same name which is still more valuable. Liquid 
amber is likewise obtained from a decoction of the 
branches, but it is inferior to that obtained from the 
trunk. 

The name copalli, in Mexico, is generic, and common 
to all the resins, but especially signifies those made use 
of for incense. There are ten species of these trees, 
yielding resins of this kind, the principal of which is that 
from which the copal is got, so well known in medicine 
and varnishes. A great quantity of this was made use of 
by the ancient Mexicans, and is still used for similar 
purposes by the Spaniards. The tecopalli, or tepeco- 
palli^ is a resin similar to the incense of Arabia, which 
distils from a tree of moderate size that grows in the 
mountains, having a fruit like an acorn, and containing 
the nut inveloped in a mucilage, within which there is a 
small kernel useful in medicine. 

The misquitl, or mesquite, is a species of true acacia^ 
and the gum distilling from it is said to be the true gum 
arabic. It is a thorny slirub, with branches irregularly 
disposed, the leaves small, thin, and finnated, and the 
flowers like those of the birch tree ; the fi*uit is sweet and 
eatable, and contains a seed of which the barbarous 
Chickemacas used to make a kind of paste which served 
them for bread. The wood is exceedingly hard and 
heavy, and the trees are as common in Mexico as oaks 
are in Europe. 

Of the elastic gums, which are found in plenty in 
Mexico, the natives used to make foot-balls, which, 
though heavy, have a better spring than those filled with 
air. At present they use these gums to varnish their 
hats, cloaks, great-coats, and boots, in a manner similar 



KER'S TRAVELS. 241 

to what is done in Europe with wax, and by which mean<^ 
they are all rendered water proof. 

Clavegero laments that the history of vegetables in 
Mexico is very little known, and that of animals no bet- 
ter. Although there have been several writers of consid- 
erable abilities since his time, yet much remains to be 
explored, and a vast field is still open to the botanist and 
zoologist, well worthy of attention ^ 

*' The first Spaniards,'' says he, *' who gave them 
names, were more skilful in the art of war than in the 
study of nature. Instead of retaining the terms which 
would have been most proper, they denominated many 
animals tigers, wolves, bears, dogs, squirrels, &c. 
although they were very different, merely from some 
resemblance in the colour of their skin, their figure, or 
some similarity in habits and disposition." 

The quadrupeds found in Mexico at the arrival of the 
Spaniards were, lions, tigers, wild cats, bears, wolves, 
foxes, the common stag, white stags, bucks, wild goats, 
badgers, polecats, weazels, martins, squirrels, polatucas, 
rabbits, hares, otters, and rats. All these animals are 
supposed to be common to both continents. The white 
stag, whether it be the same as the other kind or not, is 
undoubtedly common to both, and was known to the 
Greeks and Romans. The Mexicans call it the " kinsi; 
of the stags." \ 

M. Buffon imagines the white colour of this stag to be 
the effect of captivity ; but Clavegero say a that it is found 
wild, and of the same white colour, on almost all the 
mountains. In many other points, the opinions of this 
r.elebrated naturalist are erroneous, as he will not allow 



242 KER'S TRAVELS. 

the lion, the tiger, or the rabbit, to be natives of thi^ 
country. 

The animals which are common to Mexico with the 
other parts of the continent, are the Mexican hog, the mou- 
sete, the opossum, the armidillo, and the techichi, a small 
animal resembling a dog, which being perfectly dumb, 
gave occasion for the report that the Mexican dogs could 
not bark. The fiesh of this animal was esteemed an 
agreeable and nourishing food. After the conquest of 
Mexico, the Spaniards, having neither large cattle nor 
sheep, provided their markets with this animal, by which 
means the species became extinct, though it had been 
very numerous. 

The land squirrel is very numerous in the kingdom 
of Michuachan ; it has great elegance of form, and is 
extremely graceful in its movements, but it cannot be 
tamed, and bites most furiously every person v/ho ap- 
proaches it. 

Besides these, there are sea-lions, raccoons, and that 
voracious animal named the tapir. There are likewise 
great numbers of moiikies, of many diiferent kinds, some 
of which have heads resembling those of dogs^ and some 
of them are strong and fierce, equalling a man in stature 
when they stand upright. 

Among the animals peculiar to Mexico, is one named 
by Clavegero the coyoto, which appears to have been in- 
accurately described by historians, some making it of one 
species, and some of another. The tlacojotl, or ilelcoyoi 
to, is about the size of a middling dog, and in my opin- ^ 
ion is the largest animal living under the earth. The 
tepeizelutly, or mountain dog, though it is but of the 



KER'S TRAVELS. 24^ 

size of a small dog, is so bold that it attacks deer, and 
sometimes kills them. 

Another animal, larger than either of the two former, 
is called the xoloitzcuintli ; some of these are no less 
than four feet in length ; its face resembles that of the 
dog, and it has tusks like the wolf; its ears are erect, 
its neck is gross, and its tail long. This animal is en- 
tirely destitute of hair except on the snout, where there 
are some thick crooked bristles ; the whole body is 
covered with a smooth, soft, ash-coloured skin, with 
black and tawny spots. This species of animalsj as well 
as the two former, are almost totally extinct. 

An animal called ocstochly, a kind of wild cat, is re- 
mai'kable, more for the fabulous account of it, than for 
any singular property with which it is really endowed. 
According to the account of Dr. Hernandez, when this 
creature takes any prey, it covers it with leaves, and af- 
terwards, mounting on some neighbouring tree, it begins 
howling, to invite other animals to partake of its prey, be- 
ing itself always the last to eat, because the poison of its 
tongue is so strong, 'that if it ate first the prey would be 
infected, and the other animals which should eat would 
die. To these must be added a curious animal of the mole 
kind, which is called the tozan, or tuza ; it is about the 
size of an European mole, but very different in other 
respects. 

The birds are so numerous, and of such various ap- 
pearance and qualities, that Mexico has been called the 
country of birds, as Africa is that of quadrupeds. A 
late celebrated writer describes upwards of four hundred 
birds peculiar to this country. The eagles and hawks of 
Mexico have a superiority over those of Europe ; and 



244 KER'S TRAVELS. 

the falcons were formerly esteemed so excellent, that by 
the desire of Philip II. an hundred of them were every 
year sent over to Spain. The largest, the most beautiful, 
and the most valuable kind of eagles, is that called by the 
Mexicans itzquachli, which will pursue, not only the lar- 
ger kinds of birds, but quadrupeds, and even men. 

I'he aquatic birds are very numerous, and of great va- 
riety ; there are at least twenty species of ducks, a vast 
variety of geese, with several kinds of herons, swans, 
quails, water-rails, divers, king-fishers, pelicans, &:c. 
The multitude of ducks is so great that they sometimes 
cover the fields, and appear at a distance like flocks of 
sheep. Some of the herons and egrets are perfectly 
Avhite, and some ash-coloured ; others have the plumage 
of the body white, while the neck, the top and upper 
parts of the v/ings, and part of the tail, are enlivened with 
n bright scarlet, or beautiftil blue. 

There are a great number of birds that are valuable 
on account of their plumage, which was made use of by 
the Mexicans in their excellent mosaic work, an art 
which seems now to be totally lost. Peacocks have been 
brought from the old continent to Mexico, but not being 
attended to, have propagated very slowly. 

The birds remarkable for their songs are likewise very 
numerous ; among these, that called the centzouilt, by 
Europeans the mock-bird, is most remarkable, on ac- 
count of its counterfeiting the notes of all others it hears- 



KER'S TRAVELS. 245 



CHAP. XXIV. 



Description of the reptiles found in Mexico — Extraor- 
dinary size of some of them — Large frogs — Descrip- 
tion of the flying insects — TForms — Description of 
the zoophytes found on trees, 

Mexico, as well as all other countries in America, 
abounds with reptiles, many of which are of an enormous 
size. In the course of my travels I have had occasion to 
mention several, whose extraordinary length may have 
been thought to have been exaggerated ; but although 
not very common, they are frequently met with, and are 
mentioned by others without much surprise. 

The crocodiles are not less to be dreaded than those 
of Africa or Asia, There are likewise some of those mon^ 
strous serpents which are met with in the East- Indies and 
in South- America, (and one of them, it will be recollected, 
I killed, and particularly described,) though happily they 
are not numerous, being seldom to be met with in any 
place but in woods and other unfrequented places. 

There are great numbers of lizards, some of which are 
supposed to be poisonous, but I think this opinion is ilL 
founded. 

There are several kinds of poisonous serpents, of which 
the rattlesnake is one. Another kind of poisonous ser-. 
pents is the cemecoatl, which is remarkable for having a 
luminous appearance in the dark, by which, as by the 
ratding noise of the rattlesnake, travellers are warned of 
their danger. 



246 KER'S TRAVELSo 

Among the harmless snakes is a very beautiful one 
about a foot in length, and of the thickness of the little 
finger : th'fs snake seems to take great pleasure in the 
society of ants, insomuch that it will accompany these 
insects on their expeditions, and return with them to their 
usual rest : it is called both by the Spaniards and Mex- 
icans ''the mother of ants." An eminent writer sup- 
poses, that all the attachment which this snake shows to 
the ant-hill, is occasioned by its living on the ants them- 
selves* 

The ancient Mexicans were wont to take delight in 
keeping a harmless green snake which they caught in 
the fields, and which, when well fed, would grow to the 
length of five or six feet. It was generally kept in a 
tub, which it never left but to receive food from the 
hand of his master, and this it would take either mounted 
on his shoulder, or coiled about his legs. 

The aquatic animals are innumerable. Clavegero 
mentions a species of frogs which are so large that a 
single one will weigh a pound, and which are excellent 
food. Of fish proper for food, he says he has counted 
upwards of one hundred, without taking in the turtle^ 
crab, or any other crustaceous fish. 

Of flying, and other minute insects, the number is pro- 
digiously great. There are a variety of beetles ; some, 
of a green colour, make a great noise in travelling, on 
which account they are much esteemed by children. 
There are great numbers of shining beetles, as well as 
luminous flies, which abound in the country, which make 
a delightful appearance. 

There are six kinds of bees, and four kinds of wasps ; 
of which last, one collects wax, and honey of a very sweet 



KER'S TRAVELS. 247 

taste : another is called the wandenng wasp, from its fre- 
quent change of abode, and in consequence of these 
changes it is constantly employed in collecting materials 
for its habitations. There is also a black hornet with a 
red tail, the sting of which is so large and strong that it 
will not only penetrate a sugar-cane, but even the trunk 
of a tree. 

The lake of Mexico abounds with a kind of fly, the 
eggs of which are deposited upon the flags and rushes 
in such quantities as to form large masses ; these are 
collected by the fishermen, and cai'ried to market for 
sale ; they are eaten both by Mexicans and Spaniards, 
and have much the same taste as the caviare of fish. 
The Mexicans also eat the flies themselves, ground and 
made up with saltpetre. 

There are abundance of gnats on takes and in moist 
places, but the capital, by the late improvements which 
have taken place, is rendered entirely free from them. 
There are other flies which make no noise in their flighty 
but whose bite causes a violent itching, and if the part be 
scratched, an open wound is apt to ensue. 

The butterflies are very numerous, and their wingSj: 
glow with colours far superior to those of Europe : the 
figures of some of them are given by Hernandez. 

But, with all its beauties and advantages, Mexico is 
subject to the dreadful devastations of locusts, which 
sometimes occasion destructive famines. 

There are some of the worms of Mexico made use of 
by the inhabitants as food ; others are poisonous. There 
are great numbers of scolopendrse, and scorpions ; some 
of the former growing to an immense size. Hernandez: 
^ys that he has seen some of them two feet two inches 



248 KEIVS TRAVELS. 

thick. The scorpions are very numerous, and, in the 
hot parts of the country, their poison is so strong as to 
kill children, and give terrible pain to adults. Their 
sting is most dangerous during those hours of the day 
in which the sun is hottest. 

In the province of Michuacan is a singular species of 
ant, larger than the common one, with a greyish body 
and black head ; on its hinder parts is a little bag, full of 
a sweet substance, of which children are very fond* 
The Mexicans suppose this to be a kind of honey col- 
lected by the insect ; but I think it rather the eggs. 

There is a mischievous kind of tick, which in the hot 
countries abounds among the grass : from thence it easily 
gets upon the clothes, and from them upon the skin ; 
there it fixes with such force, from the particular figure 
of its feet, that it can scarcely be got off. At first it 
seems nothing but a small black speck, but in a short 
time enlai'ges to such a degree, from the blood which it 
sucks, that it equals the size of a bean, and then assumes 
a leaden colour. Oviedo, a celebrated Spanish writer^ 
says the best and safest method of getting speedily rid of 
% is by anointing the part with oil, and then scraping it 
with a knife. If it is not speedily removed, a wound is 
made similar to that which the rigera, or chegoe makes. 

The following insects were eaten by the ancient 
Mexicans, viz. fhe atilepitz, a marsh grasshopper, of a 
dark colour and great size, being not less than six inches 
long and two broad. The atopiana, a marsh beetle, re- 
sembling in shape and size the flying beetle, having four 
feet, and covered with a hard shell. The abuillhuila, a 
worm which inhabits the Mexican lake, four inches long, 
and of the thickness of a goose quill, of a tawny colour 



KER'S TRAVELS. 249 

On the upper part of the body, and white upon the under 
part ; it stings with its tail, which is hard and poisonous. 
The ocuithtz, a black marsh worm, which becomes white 
on being roasted. 

Among the curious productions of the animal kind to 
be met with in this country, Clavegero mentions a kind 
of zoophytes, which he saw in the year 1751, in a house 
in the country, about ten miles from the city of Angelo- 
poli, towards the southeast ; they are three or four inches 
long, and have four Very long slender feet, with two 
antennas. Their body is nothing more than the fibres of 
the leavesj of the same shape, size, and colour, with 
those of the other leaves of the trees upon which these 
creatures are found. The zoophytes, how^ever, are very 
rare, there being but four in the whole city of Mexico^ 
which are kept in the cabinets of the curious. 

Cochineal is one of the most "\'aluable products of 
Mexico, and great care is taken to rear the insect m 
different parts. The best is that which comes from the 
province of the Mixtecas. Some have reckoned that 
more than two thousand five hundred bags of cochineal 
are sent every year from Mixteca to Spain ; and the trade 
in that article, can'ied on by the city of Oaxala, is com * 
puted at two hundred thousand crowns T'alue, 



250 KER'S TRAVELS. 



CHAP. XXV. 

Particular description of the inhabitants of the Mexican 
empire — llliberality of denying them the talent of in- 
vention — Disinterestedness of their character — Com- 
parison between the ancient and modern Mexicans — 
Some particulars of the Mestees — Inhumanity of the 
first conquerors of Mexico — Humane interposition of 
Bartholomew Las Casas— Partial emancipation of the 
Indians — Inefficacy of it — llliberality of the Spanish 
government — Employments of the Mexicans > 

Xhough Mexico was originally inhabited by a number 
of different nations, yet all of them much resembled 
each other, not only in character, but in their external 
appearance. *' They generally rather exceed than fall 
luider the middle size, and are well proportioned in all 
their limbs. They have good complexions, narrow fore- 
heads, black eyes, clean, white, firm, and regular teeth; 
thick, black, coarse, glossy hair ; thin beards, and gene- 
rally no hair upon their legs, thighs, and arms. Theii' 
skin is of an olive colour. There is scarcely a nation on 
earth in which there ai'e fewer persons deformed ; and 
it would be more difficult to find a single hump-backed, 
lamcj or squint-eyed man, among a thousand Mexicans, 
than among an hundred of any other nation. 

^' The unpleasantness of their colour, the smallness of 
their foreheads, the thinness of their beards, and the 
coarseness of their hair, are so far compensated by the 
regularity and fine proportion of their limbs, that they 



KER'S TRAVELS. 25 i 

t:an neither be called very beautiful nor the contrary, but 
seem to hold a middle place between the extremes ; their 
appearance neither engages nor disgusts. But among the 
young women of Mexico there are many very beautiful 
and fair, whose beauty is at the same time rendered more 
winning by the natural sweetness of their manner of speak- 
ing, and by the pleasantness and natural modesty of their 
whole behaviour. 

" Their senses are veiy acute, particularly that of 
sight, which they enjoy unimpaired to the latest age. 
Their constitutions are sound, and their health robust : 
they are entirely free of many disorders which ai'e com- 
mon among the Spaniards ; but of the epidemical dis- 
eases to ^vhich their country is occasionally subject, they 
are generally the victims ; with them these diseases begin, 
and with them they end. One never perceives in a 
Mexican that stinking breatli which is occasioned in oth- 
er people by the corruption of the humours, or indiges- 
tion. Their constitutions are phlegmatic ; but the pitui- 
tous evacuations from their heads are very scanty, and 
they seldom spit. They become grey-headed and bald 
earlier than the Spaniards ; and although most of them 
die with acute diseases, it is not ver}^ uncommon among 
them to attain the age of an hundred. They are now, 
and ever have been, moderate in eating, but their pas- 
sion for strong liquors is carried to the greatest excess ; 
formerly they were kept w^ithin bounds by the severity of 
the laws, but now that these liquors have become so com- 
mon they are unrestrained, and one half of the people 
seem to have lost their senses ; and this, together with 
the poor manner in which they live, exposed to all the 
baneful impressions of disease, and destitute of the means 



252 KER'S TRAVELS. 

of correcting them, is undoubtedly the principal cause of 
the havoc which is made among them by epidemical dis- 
orders. 

" Many persons allow the Mexicans to possess a great 
talent at imitation, but deny them that of invention : a 
vulgar error, which is contradicted by the ancient histo- 
ry of that people. Their minds are affected by the same 
variety of passions with those of other nations, but not to 
an equal degree : the Mexicans seldom exhibit those 
transports of anger, or frenzies of love, which are so com- 
mon in other countries. They are slow in their motions, 
and show a wonderful tenacity and steadiness in those 
works which require time and long continued attention. 
They are most patient under injuries and hardships, and 
w^here they suspect no evil intention, are most grateful 
for any kindness shewn ; but some Spaniards, who can- 
not distinguish patience from insensibility, nor distrust 
from ingratitude, say proverbially that the Indians are 
alike insensible to injuries or benefits. That habitual 
distrust which they entertain of a^l who are not of their 
nation, prompts them often to lie and betray, so that good 
faith certainly has not been respected among them- so 
much as it deserves. They are by nature taciturn, seri- 
ous, and austere, and show more anxiety to punish crimes 
than to reward virtue. 

" Generosity and disinterestedness are the principal fea- 
tures of their character. Gold, with the Mexican, has not 
that value which it possesses with others. They seem 
to give without reluctance what it has cost them the ut- 
most labour to acquire. The neglect of selfish interests, 
with the dislike which they bear to their rulers, and con- 
i^equently their aversion to perform the tasks imposed by 



KER'S TRAVELS. 253 

them, seem to have been the only ground for the much 
exaggerated charge of indolence against the Mexicans ; 
and after all, there is no set of people in that country who 
labour more, or whose labour is more necessary. 

" The respect paid by the young people to the aged, 
and by children to their parents, seem to be a prin- 
ciple born with them. Parents are very fond of their 
children ; but the affection which husbands bear to their 
wives is certainly less than that which wives bear to their 
husbands ; and it is very common for the men to love 
their neighbours' wives better than their own. 

" Courage and cowardice seem alternately so to affect 
their minds, that it is often difficult to determine whether 
the one or the other predominates : they meet dangjers 
with intrepidity when they proceed from natural causes, 
but are easily terrified by the stern looks of a Spaniard. 
That stupid indifference about ' death and eternity, which 
some authors have thought inherent in the character of 
every Mexican, is peculiar only to those who are yet so 
rude and uninformed as to have no idea of a future 
state." 

Thus much with respect to the general character of 
the Mexicans ; but, as an eminent writer observes, '' the 
modern Mexicans are not in all respects similar to the 
ancient, as the Greeks of these days have little reserat- 
blance to those who lived in the times of Plato and Peri- 
cles. The ancient Mexicans shewed more fire, and 
were more sensible to the impressions of honour ; they 
■were more intrepid, more njmble, more active, more in- 
dustrious, but they ^vere at the same time more supersti- 
tious and cruel." 

The Mestecs, who constitute a third order of citizen'i. 



254 KER'S TRAVELS. 

are held in very gi*eat contempt. It is well known that 
the court of Madrid, in order to replenish a part of that 
dreadful vacancy which the avarice and cruelty of the 
conquerors had occasioned, and to regain the confidence 
of those who had escaped their fury, encouraged as much 
as possible the marriage of Spaniards with Indian women : 
these alliances, which became pretty common throughout 
Spanish America, were particularly frequent in Mexico, 
where the women had more understanding, and ^vere 
more agreeable than in other places. The Creoles trans- 
ferred to this mixed progeny the contemptuous slight 
they received from the Europeans : their condition, equi- 
vocal at first, in process of time became fixed between 
the whites and the blacks. 

These blacks are not very numerous in Mexico. As 
the natives are more intelligent, more industrious, and 
more robust, than those of the other colours, they have 
hardly introduced any Africans, except such as were re- 
quired either to indulge the caprice, or perform the do- 
mestic service of the rich people. These slaves, who are 
much beloved by their masters, on whom they absolutely 
depend, who purchased them at an extravagant price, and 
who make them the ministers of their pleasures, take ad- 
vantage of the high favour they enjoy, to oppress the 
Mexicans : they assume over these men who are called 
free, an ascendancy, which keeps up an implacable 
hatred between the two nations. The law has studied 
to encourage this aversion, by taking effectual measures 
to prevent all connexion between them. Negroes are 
prohibited from having any amorous correspondence with 
the Indian women ; the men on pain of being mutilated, 
the women of being severely punished. On all these 



KER'S TRAVELS. ' 255 

Accounts, the Africans, who in other settlements are ene- 
mies to Europeans, are in the Spanish Indies their warm 
friends. 

Authority has no need of this support, at least in Mex- 
ico, where population is no longer what it was formerly. 
The first historians, and* those who copied them, have 
recorded that the Spaniards found in Mexico ten millions 
of souls. This is supposed to have been the exagge- 
rated account of conquerors, to exalt the splendour of 
their triumph ; and it ^vas adopted without examination 
with so much the more readiness, as it rendered them, 
the more odious. We need only trace with attention 
the progress of those ruffians who at first desolated these 
fine countries, in order to be convinced that they had hot 
succeeded in multiplying men at Mexico and the adja- 
cent parts, but by depopulating the centre of the empire;: 
and that the provinces which are remote from the capital; 
differed in nothing from the other deserts in South and 
North America. It is making a great concession to al- 
}o\v that the population of Mexico has been exaggerated 
one half, for it does not now much exceed two mill- 
ions. 

It is generally believed that the first conquerors mas 
sacred the Indians out of wantonness, and that even the 
priests incited them to these acts of ferocity. Undoubt- 
cdly these inhuman soldiers frequently shed blood with 
out even an apparent motive ; and certainly the fanatic 
missionaries did not oppose these barbarities as they ought 
to have done. 

This was not however the real cause, the principc^ 
source of the depopulation of Mexico ; it was the work 
"^f a slow tvrannv, and of that avarice which exacted front 



256 KEB'S TRAVELS. 

its wretched inhabitants more rigorous toil than was com- 
patible with their constitution and the climate. 

This oppression was coeval with the conquest of the 
country. All the lands were divided between the crown, 
the companions of Cortez, and the grandees, or minis- 
ters, who were most in favour at the court of Spain. 
The Mexicans appointed to the royal domains, were des- 
tined to public labours, which originally were considera- 
ble. The lot of those who were employed on the estates 
of individuals, was still more wretched : all groaned 
under a dreadful yoke. They were ill fed, and had no 
wages given them. Services were required of them, 
under which the most robust men would have sunk. 

Their misfortunes excited the compassion of Barthol- 
omew DeLas Casas. This man, so famous in the 
annals of the new world, had^ accompanied his father, in 
the first voyage made by Columbus. The mildness and 
simplicity of the Indians affected him so strongly, that he 
made himself an ecclesiastic, in order to devote his 
labours to their conversion ; but this soon became the 
least of his attention. As he was more a man than a 
priest, he felt more for the cruelties exercised against 
them than for their superstition. He was continually 
hurrying from one hemisphere to the other, in order to 
comfort the people for whom he had conceived an at- 
tachment, or to soften their tyrants. This conduct, 
which made him idolized by the one, and dreaded by 
the other, had not the success he expected. 

The hope of striking awe, by a character revered 
among the Spaniards, induced him to accept the bish- 
opric of Chiapa, in Mexico. When he was convinced 
that this dignity was an insufficient barrier against that 



KER'S TRAVELS. 257 

avarice and cruelty which he endeavoured to check, he 
abdicated it. It was then, that this courageous, firm, 
disinterested man, accused his country before the tri- 
bunal of the whole universe. In his account of the 
tyranny of the Spaniards in America, he accuses them of 
having destroyed fifteen millions of the Indians. They 
ventured to find fault with the acrimony of his style, but 
no one accused him of exaggeration. His writings^ 
which indicate the amiable turn of his disposition, and 
the sublimity of his sentiments, have stamped a disgrace 
upon his barbarous countrymen, which time has not, nor 
never will have power to efface. 

The court of Madrid, awakened by the representations 
of the virtuous Las Casas, and by the indignation of the 
whole world, became sensible at last, that the tyranny it 
permitted was jrepugnant to religion, to humanity, and to 
policy, and resolved to break the chains of the Mexicans. 
Their liberty was now only restrained, by the sole con- 
dition that they should not quit the territory where they 
were settled. This precaution owed its origin to the 
fear that was entertained of their going to join the wan- 
dering savages to the north and south of the empire. 

With their liberty, their lands ought to have been re- 
stored to them ; but this was not done. This injustice 
compelled them to work solely for their oppressors. It 
was only decreed that the Spaniards in whose service 
they laboured, should stipulate to keep them well, and 
pay them to the amount of five pounds five shillings a. 
year. 

From these profits the tribute imposed by government 
Was subtracted, together \vith four shillings four pence 
half penny, for an institution which it is astonishing the 



'f 



258 KER'S TRAVELS . 

conquerors should have thought of estabhshing : this was 
a fund set apart in each community, and appropriated to 
the reUef of such Indians as were decayed or indisposed, 
and to their support under private or pubUc calami- 
ties. 

The distribution of this fund was committed to their 
caciques. These were not the descendants of those whom 
they found in the country at the time of the conquest ; but 
the Spaniards chose them from among those Indians who 
appeared the most attached to their interests, and w^ere un- 
der no apprehension from the circumstance of making these 
dignitaries hereditary. Their authority was limited to the 
support of tlie police in their district, which generally ex- 
tends eight or ten leagues, to the collecting of the tribute 
of those Indians who laboured on their own account, that 
of the others being stopped by the masters whom they 
served, and to the preventing of their flight, by keeping 
them always under their inspection, and not suffering 
them to contract any engagement without their consent. 
As a reward for their services, these magistrates obtained 
from government a property : they were permitted to 
take out of the common stock two pence half penny an- 
nually, for every Indian under their jurisdiction. At last 
they were empowered to get their fields cultivated by 
such } oung men as were not subject to the poll tax^; and 
to employ girls till the time of their marriage, in such 
occupations as were suited to their sex, without allowing 
them any salary except their maintenance. 

These institutions, which totally changed the condition 
of the Indians in Mexico, irritated the Spaniards to a 
degree not to be conceived. Their pride would not suf 
liir them to consider the Americans as fi-eemcn, nor 



KER'S TRAVELS. 259 

would their avarice permit them to pay for labour which 
hitherto had cost them nothing. They employed them- 
selves successively, or in combinations, craft, remon- 
strance, and violence, to effect the subversion of an ar- 
rangement ^vhich so strongly contradicted their ^v^armest 
passions ; but their efforts were ineffectual. Las Casas 
had raised up for his beloved Indians, protectors who 
seconded his design with zeal and warmth. The Mexi- 
cans themselves, finding a support, impeached their op- 
pressors before the tribunals that were either weak, or in 
the interest of the court. They carried their resolution 
so far as even unanimously to refuse to work for those 
who had treated any of their countrymen with injustice. 
This mutual agreement, more than any other circum- 
stance, gave solidity to the regulations which had been 
decreed ; the order prescribed by the laws was gradually 
established. There was no longer any regular system of 
oppression, but merely several of those particular vexa- 
tions which a vanquished people who have lost their gov- 
ernment can hardly avoid from those who have sub 
dued it. 

These clandestine acts of injustice did not prevent the 
Mexicans from recovering, from time to time, certain de- 
tached portions of that immense territory of ^vhich their 
fathers had been despoiled. They purchased them of the 
royal domain, or of the great proprietors. It was not 
their labour which enabled them to make these acquisi- 
tions ; for this they \vere indebted to the discovery of 
some mines and other treasures which had been conceal- 
ed at the time of the conquest. The greatest number 
derived their resources from the priests and monks, tci 
whom they owed their existence. 



260 KEE'S TRAVELS. 

Even those who experienced a fortune less propitious, 
procured for themselves by the sole profits of their pay, 
more conveniences than they had enjoyed before they 
yielded to a foreign yoke. We should be very much 
deceived if we were to judge of the ancient prosperity of 
the inhabitants of Mexico from what has been said by 
different writers of its emperor, its court, its capital, and 
the governors of its provinces. Despotism had there 
produced those fatal effects which it produces every 
where. The whole state was sacrificed to the caprices, 
pleasures, and magnificence of a small number of per- 
sons. 

The government drew considerable advantages from 
tlie mines which it caused to be ^vorked, and still greater 
from those w^hich were in the hands of individuals. The 
salt works greatly added to its* revenue. Those who fol- 
lowed agriculture, at the time of harvest paid a kind of a 
third of all the produce of the lands, whether they be- 
longed to them as their property, or whether they w^ere 
only the farmers of them. Men who lived by the chase, 
fishermen, cotters, and all mechanicks, paid the same 
proportion of their industry every month. Even the poor 
were taxed at certain fixed contributions, which their la- 
bour or their alms might put them in a condition to 
pay. 

The Mexicans are now less unhappy. European fruits, 
corn, and cattle, have rendered their food more whole- 
some, agi'eeable, and abundant. Their houses are better 
built, better disposed, and better furjiished. Shoes, shirts, 
drawers, and garments of wool or cotton, a ruff, and a 
liat, constitute their dress. The dignity which it has 
been agreed to annex to their enjoyments, has mad<^ 



KER'S TRAVELS. 261 

them better economists, and more laborious. This case, 
however, is far from being universal ; it is even very 
uncommon in the vicinity of mines, of towns, and of grait 
roads, where tyranny seldom sleeps ; but we often find 
it with satisfaction in remote parts, wliere the Spaniards 
are not numerous, and where they have in some measure 
become Mexicans. 

The employments of this people are very various : the 
most intelligent, and those who are in easy circumstances, 
devote themselves to the most necessary and most useful 
manufactures, which are dispersed through the whole 
empire. The most beautiful manufactures are establish- 
ed among the people of Lasca, their old capital, and the 
new one, which is called Angelos, which are the centre 
of this industr}^ In tliese places tliey manufacture cloth 
that is pretty fine, calicoes" that have a handsome appear- 
ance, certain slight silk goods, hats, gold lace, embroi- 
dery, lace, glasses, and a great deal of hardware. 

The care of flocks affords a maintenance to some Mex-^ 
icans whom fortune or nature has not called to more dis- 
tinguished employments. The single province of Tecu- 
snan sends every year to Vera Cruz and Mexico, upwards 
of 80,000 beeves, besides a large number of mules 
and horses.. Their horses, it is said, have degenerated ; 
but the quality is comj^easated by the number. They 
substitute hog's lard in the place of butter. Their sheep 
are numerous, but the wool is cairsc, dry, and bad, as 
k is every where l^etwecji tlie tropics. 

The vine and olive tree lias experienced the same de> 

r:^eneracy ; the cultivation of them was at first pj'ohibited, 

vith a view of leaving a free market for the commodities 

>f tho mother rri}mtrv. Jn ] 706 perniissio/i was i:>Tantc<f 



262 KER^S TRAVELS. 

to the Jesuits, and a little afterwards to the Marquis del 
Valle, a descendant from Cortez, to cultivate them : the 
attempts have not proved successful. The trials, indeed, 
that have been made, have not been abandoned ; but no 
person has solicited the liberty of following an example 
which did not promise any great emoluments. Other 
cultures have been more successful : cotton, sugar, silk, 
cocoa, tobacco, and European com, have all thriven in 
some degree. The Spaniards are encouraged to prosecute 
the labours which these cultures require, from the happy 
circumstance of their having discovered iron mines, which 
were entirely unknown to the Mexicans, as well as some 
mines of a kind of copper that is hard enough to serve for 
implements of husbandry. However, from a want of 
men of industry, scarcely any thing is raised more than 
what is wanted for the consumption of the country : there 
is only the vanilla, indigo, and cochineal, which make 5 
part of the trade of Mexico with other nations. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 263 



CHAP. XXVI. 

General observations — Reviexv of the benefits which have 
resulted to Europeans by the discovery of America — 
Sketch of the history of the Mexican empire — Expe- 
dition by Cortex — Death of Montezuma — Cruelties 
practised upon Gautemozin — Entire subjugation of the 
country by the Spaniards* 

W^E have now given a long account of the empire 
of Mexico, in which nothing has been omitted which 
could give information, or throw any Hght upon a coun- 
try which boasts of all the varieties of soil, from barren 
rocks to fertile plains and vallies. The author does not 
think it proper to pass on without giving a general ac- 
count of its first subjugation by the Spaniards, In doing 
this, the mind will be led with astonishment, to contem- 
plate the many barbarities which were committed by 
men who called themselves civilized, and whose osten- 
sible reasons for invading the country were for the pur-^ 
pose of obtaining proselytes to the religion of Jesus I 
that religion which teaches us benevolence and good 
wilj towards all m^n. 

I cannot, however, with some authors, lament that 
America was ever discovered. Although human depmvity 
has depopulated one part of our continent of nearly seven 
millions of inhabitants, who claimed possession imme- 
diately from the hand of nature's God ; yet it has secured 
an asylum for thousands ^vho were groaning under 
tvranny and oppression in their native countr}^ ; ha'y 



264 KER'S TRAA'ELS. 

given wealth and independence to a large portion who 
were groaning in poverty and bondage at home ; and in 
the United States, created seven millions of freemen, who, 
having adopted a constitution by which they are enabled 
to choose their own rulers, are governed by men of their 
own choice, and laws which secure to every citizen the 
free use of those rights which were transmitted to him by 
his forefathers. 

The empire of Mexico, after various attempts by 
others, was finally subdued by Cortez, in the year 1325. 
Montezuma was at that time emperor of Mexico. In 
the course of the year he was treacherously taken by 
Cortez, and held as a prisoner. During the imprison- 
ment of Montezuma, Cortez and his army had made 
repeated attacks on his subjects, but without success. 
Cortez was now determined, as his last recourse, to try 
what effect the interposition of Montezuma might have, 
to soothe or overawe his subjects. This unfortunate 
prince, at the mercy of the treacherous Spaniards, and 
reduced to the sad necessity of becoming the instrument 
of his own disgrace, and of the slavery of his subjects, 
advanced to the battlements in his royal robes, in all the 
pomp in which he used to appear on solemn occasions. 
At sight of their sovereign, whom they had long been 
accustomed to honour, and almost revere as a god, the 
weapons dropped from their hands, every tongue was 
silent, all bo^ved their heads, and many prostrated them- 
selves on the ground. 

Montezuma addressed them with every argument thaf 
could mitigate tlieir rage, or persuade them from hostili- 
ties. When he ended his discourse, a sullen murmur 
of disapprobation ran through the crowd ; to this sue- 



KER'S TRAVELS. 265 

ceeded reproaches and threats, and dieir fury rising, in a 
moment they violendy poured in whole flights of arrows, 
and volHes of stones, upon this unhappy monarch. Two 
of the arrows struck him in his body, which, with the 
blow of a stone on his temple, put an end to his life. 

Gautemozin succeeded Montezuma, and maintained 
a vigorous ^opposition against the assaults of Cortez ; but 
he, like his predecessor, after a noble defence, was forced 
to submit, and his capital was wrested from him by 
Cortez and his followers. 

The exultation of the Spaniards, on accomplishing this 
arduous enterprise, was at first excessive. But this was 
quickly damped by the cruel disappointment of those 
sanguine hopes which had animated them amidst so 
many hardships and dangers. Instead of inexhaustible 
weahh, which they expected from becoming masters of 
Montezuma's treasures, and the ornaments of so many 
temples, tlieir rapaciousness could collect only an incon- 
siderable booty, amidst ruins and desolation. Gaute- 
mozin, aware of his impending fate, had ordered what 
remained of the riches amassed by his ancestors to be 
thrown into the lake. The Indian auxiliaries, while the 
Spaniards were engaged in conflict with tlie enemy, had 
carried off" the most valuable part of the spoil. The 
sum to be divided among the conquerors was so small, 
that many of them disdained to accept of the pittance 
which fell to their shar^* and all murmured and ex- 
claimed, some against Cortez and his confidants, whom 
they suspected of having secretly appropriated to their 

* The gold and silver, according to Cortez, araonnted only to one hundred and 
twenty thousand pieces, a sum far inferior to that wliich the Spaniards had for 
raerly divided in Mexico. 

34 



266 KER'S TRAVELS. 

own use, a large portion of the riches which should have 
been brought into the common stock ; others against 
Gautemozin, whom tliey accused of obstinacy in refus- 
ing to discoyer the place where he had hidden his treas- 
ure. 

Arguments, entreaties, and promises, were employed in 
order to soothe them, but with so little effect, that Cortez, 
from solicitude to check the growing spirit of discontent, 
gave way to a deed which stained the glory of all his 
great actions. Witl'iout regarding the former dignity of 
Gautemozin, or feeling any reverence for those virtues 
which he had displayed, he subjected the unhappy mon- 
arch, together with his chief favourite, to torture, in 
order to force from them a discovery of the royal treas- 
ure, which it was supposed they had concealed. Gaute- 
mozin bore whatever the refined cruelty of his tormen- 
tors could inflict, with the invincible fortitude of an 
American warrior. His fellow sufferer, overcome by 
the violence of the anguish, turned a dejected eye to^ 
wards his master, which seemed to implore his permis- 
sion to reveal all he knew. But the high spirited prince 
darted upon him a look of authority mingled with scorn, 
and checked his weakness by asking, " Am / reposing 
on a bed of flowers ?" Overawed by the reproach, he 
persevered in his dutiful silence, and expired. Cortez, 
ashamed of a scene so horrid, rescued the royal victim 
from the hands of his torturers, and prolonged a life re- 
served for new indignities and sufferings. 

The fate of the capital, as both parties had foreseen, 
decided that of the empire. The provinces submitted, 
one after another, to the conquerors. Small detachments 
af Spaniards marched tlii'ough them without interruption-. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 267 

and penetrated in different quarters to the gi'eat South 
ocean, which, according to the ideas of Cohimbus, they 
imagined would open a short as well as an easy passage 
to the East Indies, and secure to the crown of Castile all 
the envied wealth of these fertile regions. The active 
mind of Cortez already began to form schemes for at- 
tempting this important discovery. In his after schemes, 
however, he was disappointed, but Mexico has ever 
since remained under the Spanish yoke ; although the 
late struggles which have animated these injured people 
to declare themselves free, seem to point out that the 
time has now arrived when a dismemberment from a 
Spanish despotism is about to take place, and the time 
not far distant when the southern will be as free as the 
northern parts of America. 

In compiling this general view of the Mexican empire, 
I have with considerable care selected from the latest and 
most approved authorities. My residence in the city of 
Mexico gave me an opportunity of consulting works 
which were valuable and rare, and of receiving much 
information from gentlemen who had been long resident 
in the country. 

I feel myself under particular obligations to Mr. I^a- 
cour, and our vice-consul, Mr. Stephen, who were zeal- 
ous to procure me all the information in their power, 
which would be of service to me. To the principal of 
the Jesuit's college, who allowed me free access to their 
large and valuable library, and who furnished me with a 
manuscript written by the celebrated Bomai'e, I feel par- 
ticularly grateful. From the works of the famous Abbe 
Clavegero, I have drawn much information and assist 
ance= 



'26S KER'S TRAVELS. 

When we consider the important revokitions which 
are taking place in this country, and the probabiUty that 
she will one day or other become an independent country, 
and by far the richest in the world as it respects minerals, 
it cannot but be desirable to have an accurate account of 
the country, and that too from such sources as may be 
relied on. 



CHAP. XXVIL 

Author is taken up as a spy — Further residence in Mex- 
ico rendered unsafe — Starts for St. Antonio — Arri- 
val at that place — Description of it — Difficulty of pro- 
curing a guide — Unexpected disappearance of Edom — - 
His return — Set out on our journey — Singular con- 
duct of my guide — Surrounded by banditti — Carried to 
their cave — Conversatiofi with the captain of the gang 
— Act in the capacity of a physician, and acquire the 
friendship of the captain — Singular conversation, 

February, 1814. I now thought of returning to the 
United States, as my long residence in Mexico had en- 
abled me to collect all the information in my power 
respecting its soil, manners, customs, &cc. and letters 
which I now received from my friends required my im- 
mediate attention. A circumstance which occurred 
about this time rendered my further stay here unpleasant, 
and in some respects dangerous. The affair was this ; 
during my residence in the city, I had had free access t© 



KER'S TRAVELS. 269 

many places which it is not common to allow strangers to 
visit ; and in the course of my visits I frequently took 
notes of such curiosities as I thought worthy of attention. 
This had been observed by some of those informers, 
who are scattered over every .despotic government, and 
who obtain a living by depriving their fellow creatures of 
liberty ; mformation was immediately given by them to 
the officers of government, that 1 was a spy, acting under 
the orders of a foreign government. I was watched still 
closer, and some circumstances seeming to justify their 
suspicion, I was arrested and conducted before the tri- 
bunal. My papers, at the same time, were seized, and I 
was not allowed to have communication with any one. 
Fortunately, in all my writings I had avoided speaking 
unfavourably of the Spanish government, reserving my 
observations to some future period. My papers under- 
went a very strict examination, but nothing appearing in 
evidence against me, after a detention of three days, at 
the particular and earnest request of Mr. Lacour, and 
some other American gentlemen, I was released ; at the 
same time I was given to understand that my longer resi- 
dence in the country would be attended with some diffi- 
culty, and was advised to take my departure as soon as 
possible. 

Before this affair took place, I had made arrangements 
for going to St. Antonio, the capital of the province of 
Apachiera, and had already contracted for a number of 
mules, which I intended taking by that route through 
the Tucapan tribe, on to Nachitoches. I made all prepa- 
tions in my power for a speedy departure, as my actioiis 
were much confined, owing to the strict watch which was 
kept over me by the spies of the goA^emment. 



270 KER'S TRAVELS. 

On the 16th of February I started with my guide, a 
Spaniard, who had been recompiended to me, and two 
native Mexicans, who were residents of St. Antonio. 
Our first day's journey was pleasant and agreeable, the 
road being very good, and the sky serene and clear. 
In the evening, about dark, we encamped in a fertile 
plain. 

The next morning we again set forward, and imme- 
diately entered the thick wood through which ^ve had to 
pass to get to St. Antonio ; the distance was about three 
days' journey, and we were under the necessity of taking 
this road in order to avoid the numerous hordes of petty 
officersy who infest the main road, and detain travellers on 
many frivolous pretences ; our journey was therefore uur 
interesting, dull, and in many places tedious. For twen- 
ty-four hours previous to our arrival, wc; were drenched 
with continual rain, which swelled the rivers and brooks, 
and rendered them almost impassable. On the third day, 
about dark, we arrived at St. Antonio. 

The town of St. Antonio is the capital of the province 
of Apachiera ; it is small, and not very regularly built ; 
many of the houses are of stone ; the streets are nar- 
row, and, not being paved, are very muddy. The public 
buildings are large and spacious ; they are built of fi-ee- 
stone, and form the east side of a large square. In the 
centre of the square is placed a statue of copper gilt, as 
large as life. The market of this town is well supplied, 
and beef may be bought here at two cents a pound ; fish 
are very high, but poultry is in great plenty, and very 
cheap ; eggs, butter, &c. are likewise in great plenty^ 
and reasonable. 

I was informed it would be impossible for me to trans- 



KER^ TRAVELS. 271 

port my mules out of the country, without being subject- 
ed to very heavy exactions from the towns through which 
I should pass ; this was not done from any legal authori- 
ty, but the police was so badly regulated in many of the 
frontier towns, that it would be winked at by the officers 
of government : I therefore deemed it most advisable to 
go over the mountains by a circuitous route^ and for that 
purpose set about procuring a guide who would conduct 
me with safety on my journey. 

It was some time before I could procure a person who 
was going over the mountain ; at last one was presented, 
who brought a letter from a Spanish gentleman of my 
acquaintance, recommending him very highly. His ap- 
pearance did not prepossess me very greatly in his fa- 
vour ; his height was about six feet ; his countenance 
was dark, and shaded by an enormous pair of whiskers ; 
a large pair of dark eyes, which glared with uncommon 
fierceness, completed one of the most savage counte- 
nances I ever saw. His terms were very moderate, and 
I employed him. He would be ready in two days, and 
the morning of the third we agreed to start. 

The next morning, Edom, who had hitherto been the 
constant companion of my journey, was missing. I en- 
quired of my landlord where he was, and he informed 
me that he had not seen him since the night before. As 
he had never before gone away without obtaining leave 
of me, I felt alarmed lest he should have met with some 
difficulty. In the course of the day I searched for him in 
different parts of the town, but without effect. The 
next day's search was equally unsuccessful. As it wa5i 
evident, from the appearance of things in his room, that he 
had not gone away with the intention of lea^'ing my ser- 



272 KER'S TRAVELS. 

vice, I was determined to wait some time, in order, if 
possible, to recover him. My guide was much cha- 
grined at this determination, and endeavoured to persuade 
me to go on, and leave word for my negro to join me 
when I reached Nachitoches. I would not consent, and, 
after some altercation, he agreed to remain till I could 
go on. 

Four or five days elapsed, and still no intelligence of 
my man. I began to doubt whether I should ever see 
him more, when, as I was sitting at my window, con- 
sidering what was to be done, he entered tlie room. I 
received him with joy, and after the first salutations, 
begged him to tell me where he had been. He informed 
me that he went into the street on the evening of his 
departure, soon after I went to bed, intending to take a 
short walk ; he had just turned the corner of a street, 
when he heard the cry of murder repeated several times, 
which seemed to proceed from a cellar at no great dis- 
tance. He hastened to the spot, and when he came 
there he found a woman, apparently in the agonies of 
death, and a man standing near her ; as soon as the man 
perceived him, he started, and in a few minutes was out 
of sight. The guard, who had been attracted by the 
noise, now coming up, and seeing no one near the spot 
but him, and the woman being speechless, took him into 
custody, and would not allow him to speak to any one 
till the arrival of the alcaid, who iurived in town the 
day before. They would not release him, till the woman 
who had partly recovered was brought, and certified that 
he was not the one who had stabbed her. He was then 
set at liberty, and lost no time in coming to my lodg- 
ings. 



KER'S TRAVELS. ^73 

I was glad to see him, and as I now had nothing to 
detain me, sent word to my guide that I would start 
the next morning. Accordingly, about 3 o'clock in the 
morning he came to my lodgings, and we commenced 
our journey. We had not proceeded more than five 
leagues from the town, before a violent storm of rain 
came on, which obliged us to take shelter in a miller's 
house. It rained incessantly for three or four hours, and, 
the roads becoming choked with water, we concluded to 
remain here all night. The miller received us with 
much hospitality, and cheerfully agreed to our remaining 
with him till the next day. His family consisted of his 
wife, three daughters, and a son about sixteen, who 
assisted his father in the mill. 

The next morning we again set forward, the roads 
having become more dry. The sky was serene and clear, 
and we entered the forest with the hopes of having a 
pleasant and delightful journey. We encamped about 
eight o'clock. 

In the morning we again started, and proceeded with 
as much speed as the road would allows it being in 
many places covered with underwood, and a rich long 
grass, which gets matted, and renders the travelling in 
some places heavy and disagreeable. The climate is 
here dry and healthy, and the soil very rich and fruitful ; 
it is of a thick black loam, and covered with a rich lux- 
uriant grass, w^hich is much esteemed by cattle. 

We again started forward, and about ten o'clock en- 
tered more deeply into the wood. I objected to the 
manner of proceeding, and told my guide we had better 
continue more at the edge of the wood : he told me that 
the nearest route ^\^ould be to pursue the road he pointed 



274 KER'S TRAVELS. 

out, as the other was more circuitous and not so often 
travelled. I told him he might continue ; and we pro- 
ceeded with difficulty through the long grass and under- 
wood, which were here very thick. About dark I pro- 
posed stopping, but he assured me that there was a large 
spot which was open and clear, only a few miles ahead, 
and that it would be best to go there. About 8 o'clock 
we arrived in an open space, which seemed to have been 
formed by the cutting down of the trees. Before I had 
time to make any observations, a loud whistle caused 
jne to turn round, and I saw advancing towards me, a 
large party, armed with gmis and cutlasses. I seized my 
gun, but they instantly ran towards me, and in an in- 
stant I was on the ground. They now blindfolded me, 
and I was led along between two of them, who held me 
by the arms. They went forward a considerable dis- 
tance, and then began to descend, which they continued 
for a considerable time. The dampness of the air, I 
felt very perceptibly, which induced me to think that I 
was a considerable way under ground. 

Whither I was going, or why taken in this manner, I 
could not account, unless they were robbers, into whose 
hands I had been betrayed by my perfidious guide. 

After being conducted is this manner for near a quarter 
of an hour, they stopped, and in a few minutes I heard 
a voice, ^vhose commanding tone induced me to believe 
him to be a man of authority, speak in the Spanish lan- 
guage, and order me to be unbound. They imme- 
diately loosened the bandage, and I found myself in a 
small passage which was lighted by four torches. A 
man of a commanding figure, stood contemplating me 
T> ith fixed attention ; he was surrounded by about t^^^enty 



KER'S TRAVELS. 275 

persons, whose ferocious countenances declared them 
capable of performing any diabolical deed which might 
be suggested to them. 

He surveyed me some time in silence, and then turn- 
ing from me, spoke in a low tone of voice to one \vho 
Btood near him, and departed. The one to whom he 
spake now took a torch, and beckoned me to follow 
him ; I did so, and after going along several windings of 
the rock, all of which I perceived had doors in them, he 
reached the extremity of one, and opening a door ^vhich 
Avas made of iron, he pointed in silence that I might 
enter. When I got in he shut the door, and I heard 
him turn a key. My reflections were gloomy, and I 
felt as though 1 was shut out from all the world. 

In about an hour, an old woman whom I had not 
before seen, made her appearance. She brought with 
her a cold fowl, and some coffee, which she set down ; 
she then went away without saying a word. In a few 
minutes she returned, with a matrass and bedding, 
which she put on a cot, and made me up a comfortable 
bed. 

I had hitherto preserved a profound silence, and I saw^ 
nothing in the face of this old woman which was an in- 
ducement for me to break it. She was below the middle 
size ; her countenance sallow, and mlich blackened by 
the sun. She had a very long nose, and one of her eyes 
had been put out in some squabble. Her whole appear- 
ance was the most ugly I had ever seen in womankind. As 
soon as she had made my bed she departed, locking the 
door after her, and preserving a profound silence during 
the whole of her visit. In the morning she came again, 
and brought me my breakfast, and again left me to mv 



^76 KER'S TRAVELS. 

self. As they had not searched my pockets when they 
brought me into the cavern, I had still pen, ink, and pa- 
per, besides a considerable sum of money, which I se- 
creted against a time of need, for I had an idea that I 
should yet be enabled to escape from my present situa- 
tion if they allowed me to remain alive, which, from the 
manner they treated me, I had no doubt they would. 

I continued in this manner for three days, when on the 
third night I heard a considerable noise and bustle, which 
seemed to be some violent contention among the band of 
robbers, for I had now no doubt of their being such. 

In about an hour my door was unlocked, and a man 
•whom I had not before seen, entered, and advanced 
towai'ds me. I kept my eye fixed upon him, expecting 
he had come with an intention of attacking me. At last 
he asked me in Spanish if I understood any thing of 
medicine. ^ As I had a small chest of medicines with me, 
I did not doubt they had concluded from this that I was 
a physician, and I answered him in the affirmative. He 
immediately left me, and did not return for near an hour. 
When he came back he opened the door, and bade me 
follo\v him. I immediately went out, and we proceeded 
in the same direction I had come, until we came to a 
turning which branched off to the right • we turned into 
it, and after, proceeding for some time, he opened a door 
which led me into a large hall ; he now motioned me to 
sit down. All was silent as the grave, for not a word had 
been spoken from the time we left my chamber. The 
faint beams of a solitary lamp glared through the apart- 
ment, and served to show the horrors of the place. The 
black walls, which reflected a thousand shadows, and the 
height of tlie room, which was lost in the darkness which 



KER'S TRAVELS. 277 

burrounded me, seemed to give a gloomy hoiTor to my 
situation, and for the moment I felt the impression of 
fear stealing over me. 

In a short time the man who conducted me here camo 
back, and desired me to follow him. His accent was 
respectful, and his whole behaviour seemed to be much 
altered from what it had been. I followed him in silence, 
and a few minutes brought me to a small room, in which 
was a bed with curtains, and the other furniture was rich 
and elegant ; two lamps of silver with six wicks, hung 
in the centre of the room, and a sideboard, which stood 
on one side, contained a rich service of plate. I was led 
to the bedside, and a man undrew the curtains and ad- 
dressed me in the Spanish language. The moment he 
spoke I knew him to be the captain of the band. He told 
me that he was very ill, and in great pain ; th^t their phy- 
sician had been killed the night before ; that seeing I 
had a box of medicines, they believed me to be a phy- 
sician ; if I was, and would cure him, he should not be 
ungrateful for it. After a short pause he added, if, how- 
ever, you should attempt to take my life, in hopes by that 
means to effect your liberty, be assured that it will be 
tall in vain, and that the most lingering deadi will await 
you : I have those who will watch your proceedings, and 
on the least appearance of my growing worse you will be 
put in close confinement. 

Although this information rendered it hazardous for 
me to undertake any thing for him, yet there was no al- 
ternative, for he assured me I should not be allowed to 
leave my room unless I consented to use my best endea- 
vours for his recovery, and that if I succeeded he ^\'ould 
reward me handsomely and treat me as his friend. 



278 KER'S TRAVELS. 

I accordingly felt his pulse, and found him in a high 
fever, which, from appearances, I judged to be of an 
inflammatory kind. I told him I conceived bleeding to 
be absolutely necessary ; and took from his arm eight 
ounces of blood, and gave him some medicine which 
would be of service in relieving his pain. Some refresh- 
ments were brought to me, and I continued with him 
until he fell into a profound sleep. 

In about three hours I was again sent for, and found 
my patient much better than I had expected, he being 
entirely free from pain. He expressed himself very 
thankful to me for my assistance, and entered freely into 
conversation ; in the course of which, he assured me that 
I need be under no apprehension for my personal safety, 
as long as I did not attempt to make my escape, but that 
whenever I attempted that, he could no longer protect 
me. 

In a few days the captain was so far recovered as to be 
able to leave his bed for a short time each day. During 
this time I continued his constant companion, and he 
seemed to take pleasure in my company ; at night I al- 
ways retired to the room which I first occupied, and sel- 
dom left it till after breakfast. 

I one morning went into his room, and was much sur- 
prised to hear him return the compliment of the morning 
in good English. He laughingly told me he thought he 
could speak his native tongue best. I then understood 
he was a native of the United States, but of what partic- 
ular part I could not learn, as he had travelled all over 
it, and there was scarce a town in tlie union that he 
could not describe. 
, About noon he generally laid down, being still very 



KER'S TRAVELS- 27^ 

weak, and I was frequently left alone in his room. 
Perceiving this, he told me that there was a small room 
to the right which contained a few books, but whether 
any thing worthy of attention or not he did not know, as 
he seldom read any, and the room had not been used 
since Frederick, a young man who formerly lived with 
them, died. I went in, and found about one hundred 
volumes, ranged on shelves in a very neat and orderly 
manner. Among them were many good English and 
Spanish authors, which I judged from appearance had 
been taken from travellers. With them I passed the 
time as agreeably as could be expected in my situa^ 
tion, and the uncertainty when I sliould again be at my 
liberty. 

In about three weeks the captain was perfectly recov- 
ered, and one evening there was to be given a little enter- 
tainment on account of his recovery. I remained with him 
a great part of the day, and at night, when I was about to 
retire, he told me that he should be glad of my company 
to supper that evening. I could not with propriety re- 
fuse, and about eight we entered the hall which served 
them for their nightly banquets. They were already 
assembled, and on his entrance they all arose and wel- 
comed him with shouts of applause. He bowed, and 
took his seat at the head of the table, and directed me to 
a seat by the side of him. 

I now had liberty to look around and observe the room 
in which we were. It was a natural excavation of the 
mountain, but had been considerably widened by the 
art of man ; the roof was neajv^i^ggi feet high, from, 
"which was suspended nineteen large lamps, each having 
six wicks. The table \^as long, and covered wh a pro- 



280 KER'S TRAVELS. 

fusion of every thing which could provoke or gratify the 
appetite. 

The company consisted of about thirty men, whose 
aspects bespoke them familiar with guilt, and who were 
only intent on the gratification of their sensual appetites. 
The captain, whose sickness had rendered him mild in 
the chamber, now assumed that fierce and determined 
air which was peculiar to his profession, and for a mo- 
ment I could not perceive that he was the same man. 

After supper the wine began to circulate, and noise and 
mirth soon reigned throughout the cavern. The captain 
drank very sparingly of the wine, and at an early hour he 
retired to his chamber, being still too weak to set up a 
great while at a time. I accompanied him to the door, 
and then retired to my room, meditating on the means 
most likely to effect my escape from a place of such 
wretchedness and infamy. 

I repaired in the morning to the library, as I now call- 
ed it, from the circumstance of its containing all the 
books in the cavern, and was soon joined by the captain, 
who, taking a chair nearly opposite me, commenced an 
animated conversation on the duties of religion, and the 
divine attributes of the Deity. At first 1 supposed that 
he was jesting, and that I should soon hear some of the 
stale observations of Thomas Paine, or others of the same 
school ; but I was mistaken, and his language was so ner- 
vous and elegant, and he expatiated with such clearness 
and perspicuity, that I listened with fixed attention. 
When he ceased speaking, I ventured to hint to him that 
thesentiments.which'he'^h'kd just now expressed were not 
congenial to his present mode of Ufe. " I acknowledge 
it," saic^he, " but the lips of men oftentimes express 



KER'S TRAVELS. 281 

isentiments which they cannot but acknowledge the just- 
ness of, though at the same time their actions are directly 
opposite to them." 

He now changed the conversation to the books which 
were in the room, and in the course of it mentioned the 
young man who had taken so much care of them, whom 
he called Frederick. I ventured to ask him who he was, 
and what was the cause of his death. At these questions 
his countenance changed, and he sat for some minutes 
silent : at last he replied, " I have no objections to an- 
swering the questions you put to me as far as it is in my 
power, provided you will solemnly promise never to relate 
it to any one here." I without hesitation made the re- 
quired promise, and he proceeded as follotvs : "It is im- 
possible for me to tell you correctly who he was ;. but 
thus much I know, he was an American, and I judged 
born in one of the southern states ; his manners were 
mild, and he acquired the good will of the most ferocious 
of our band ; he was with us about twelve months, but, 
as his constitution was delicate, he fell into a decline, 
which carried him off in about three months after he took 
to his bed ; he selected all the books ^vhich you now see, 
and arranged them in this room, and this was his chief 
amusement. I used my best endeavours with the band 
to have him liberated, but without effect, as there are 
many among us who have less feeling than the brute cre- 
ation, and they were fearful that he would betray them, 
although he assured them in the most solemn manner that 
he would never divulge their place of concealment." 

Here the ferocity of his countenance was changed, and 
a tear trickled down his cheek ; he wiped it hastily away,, 
and then said, " Sir, it may seem surprising to you that 

36 



282 KER'S TRAVELS. 

I should be so much aiFected at the death of a fdlow 
creature, who have been instrumental iri the death of 
hundreds ; but there are moments when the principles 
which were inculcated by my ever respected parents will 
prevail, and triumph over the vicious principles I have 
imbibed* To show you that I do not overrate the talents 
of this young man, I will show you a paper which he 
wrote a short time before his death, and which seems to 
be a final farewell to all his relations." He now rose, 
opened the drawer of a writing desk, handed me a paper^ 
and left th^ room. 



CHAP. XXVHL 

Contents of the paper given me by the captain — Fare- 
iv ell verses — The hand prepares for an expedition — 
Resolution of keeping me confined during their absence 
— Ineffectual attempt to discover their route — Return 
of the gang — Qudrrel between the captain and one of 
the men — resolution of the captain to give me my lib- 
erty — Interesting conversation x$ith him. . 

Upon an examination of the paper which was handed 
me by the captain, I found that it contained no regular 
narrative, but Avhat was evidently written when the mhid 
was in a state of disquietude, and without the expectation 
of its ever being seen or read : it was as follows : 

^' In this hour, when the leaden hand of Morpheus has 



KER'S TRAVELS. 283 

stretched on their extended couch the innocent and the 
guilty, when all nature rests, and every thing is silent as 
the grave, I, who am fast going to the tomb, who have 
no friend near, no kind mother to smooth the bed of 
death, and render the path more cheering, am alone 
awake, and alive to the miseries of my situation. Fancy 
already paints my tender and aifectionate mother bowed 
by the weight of sorrow almost to the grave ; and my 
sprightly sisters, whose affectionate endearments often 
cheered me in the hour of despondency, now sitting in 
mournful sadness, and expressing unavailing wishes for 
the return of their beloved brother ; but I am gone, gone 
for ever. My mother, never shall I again be encircled in 
your arms, never will you again behold your lost son. 
Shut from all society that can with propriety be consid- 
ered human, oppressed with a disease which is as certain 
as the sting of death, I have no hope this side the grave. 
Could I but soften the hearts of those who hold me io 
captivity, I might yet behold the beams of the rising 
sun, yet be clasped in the arms of my affectionate parent, 
and breathe out the remainder of my life on her maternal 
bosom. But no ; liapiness is not to be mine in this 
world. The pleasure of once more beholding those who 
are dear to me, is denied, and I must hnger out the re- 
mainder of my days in a dungeon, surrounded with 
wretches whose hearts are steeled against the feelings of 
humanity. — 

'' But why do I complain? lias it not pleased Him in 
" whose hands are the issues of life and death," duis to 
afflict me, that I may come out of the furnace " like gold 
seven times purified ?" And have I not the consolation 
to know, that I shall inherit the mansions of eternal rest. 



^i^4 KER'S TRAVELS. 

where joy for ever reigns, — where infinite mercy, and in- 
finite love, are united as firm as the immutability of God, 
and lasting as eternity. To Him, then, I go, who has 
declared himself to be '^ the resurrection and the life, and 
that whosoever believeth in him shall not perish, but have 
everlasting life." 

"Farewell, then, my much loved friends; although 
I shall probably never see you again in this world, yet 
when you come to die, may you fall asleep in Jesus, and 
awake on the morning of the resurrection to a glorious 
immortality ; may you go through the dark valley of the 
shadow of death rejoicing, and when we meet again it 
will be in that place where sickness and sorrow will be 
done away, and where pure pleasures will exist for count- 
less ages." 

I was much affected at the reading of this piece, and 
for a moment forgot my own misery to contemplate that 
of an unfortunate being, whose bright prospects in life had 
been thus cruelly blasted. Enclosed in the paper there were 
some verses, which were more regular in their composi- 
tion, and so applicable, both to the young man's situi^tion 
and my own, that I here insert them. 

" Adieu, sweet scenes of former hours^ 
Adieu, ye shades, adieu, ye bowers, 

A lasting, long adieu ; 
Where erst in infancy I strayed. 
Or in the grove, or in the mead. 

With pleasures ever new. 

" Anna, adieu ; alas ? no more 

, Shalt fate, or fortune, e'er restore 

The blissful time anew. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 285 

When, by the twilight's fading gleani) 
Adown the gently gliding stream 
I rov'd, with heaven and you. 

** No more, where modern Xanthus laves. 
Through Hartford's plains, its sacred waves. 

Nor where the riv'Iet purls ; 
Nor in the sad, sequester'd gloom. 
Where, twin'd around my mother's tomb, 

The pliant ivy curls : 

** No more the sylvan seene^ to view. 
No more to join the jqcund crew. 

Shall I again return ; 
But, doom'd from native home to dwell. 
Or else within a cavern's cell, 

I'm left alone to mourn. 

** Thus, when the lightning's vivid flash* 
Kends to its base the stately ash^ 

Or the majestic oaki 
In living death the arbour stands. 
The plumage from the boughs descends 

Beneath the dreadful stroke. 

** Sweet girl, when, in thy circling arms. 
Protected by thy magic charms. 

Shall I resign my fears ? 
When shall this bosom lose its wo — r 
When will these eyes forget to flo«r 

For days of other years ? 

<• But love, alas 1 nor sighs, nor tears, 
Nor all the scenes of former years. 

One ray of hope diffuse ; 
Put rash despair my bosom fills. 
And, lost in frenzy's magic spells, 

\ wildly court the muse." 



286 KER'S TRAVELS. 

The reading of these lines pkmged me into a profound 
melancholy, and I could not but fancy a strong simi- 
larity between my situation and that of the author ; 
still, I was blessed with health, and my constitution 
being naturally strong, I did not absolutely despair of 
finding my way out of the cave again ; but by what 
means, or how long before they could be put in execu- 
tion, it was impossible for me to tell. As I was blind- 
folded when I entered the cave, and had not since been 
able to form any judgment of the manner in which they 
eame in, I judged it impossible for me, without some as- 
sistance, to be able to make my escape- 

The captain and myself were now constant compan- 
ions. He had recovered so far as to be able to go out 
with his troop, and I understood they were preparing for 
xin expedition which would detain the greater part of them 
©ut for a number of days. I judged this would be the 
time for me to make my escape ;- but one evening after 
supper, (for I had now supped with them for some time,) 
they desired me to retire, as they had something confiden- 
tial to propose to the band : I felt a presentiment that it 
was something which would operate against me, but rose 
nnd retired. 

In about an hour the captain came to my apartment : 
I saw vexation visibly portrayed in his countenance, and 
judged he had unpleasant news to communicate to me. 
After a silence of some time he informed me, that, as the 
band was to leave the cave the next morning, they had 
come to the resolution of confining me to my room for 
some time : he added, " You may rest assured that I 
opposed this resolution as much as I dared to do, and 
l^ad it not been for that rascal, Jim, I should have been 



KER'S TRAVELS. 287 

enabled to have got you the liberty of the hall ; but I 
will teach him better things than to oppose me, before he 
is much older." He walked the room several times with 
a quick pace, and then turning to me, added, " but don't 
be down hearted ; we shall not be gone long, and if you 
want any of the books which are in the other room, you 
shall have them." I thanked him for his attention, and 
requested a few books which I named. After a little 
more conversation he left me. 

In a few minutes the old woman entered with a basket 
of books, and, as she possessed all that curiosity which is 
common to the female sex, and had lately become very- 
loquacious, I was in hopes of getting a little information 
from her. After I had praised her manner of cooking a 
fowl, and prepared her with many well turned complin 
ments, I asked her if she knew what route the band in- 
tended steering. " The Lord of heaven knows," she 
replied, " for I am sure it is impossible for any one else 
to know, they keep it such a secret ; although for the 
matter of that, I have always told them they might as 
well trust me, for I should as soon think of going with- 
out eating as to mention it to a living soul." But sure- 
ly, said I, a person who is so useful as you are, ought at 
least to know where they are going. " So I have told 
them a thousand times," said the old woman, ^' and when 
William came into the kitchen just now to get his water 
boots, says I to him, You suppose one can't tell 
where you are a going, but I will lay my life that it is 
another tramp to the river." How far do you call it to 
the river, my good madam, said I, in a careless tone, al- 
though I was much interested in the answer, *' Why; 
bless me, not more than two " Here the appear- 



288 KER'S TRAVELS. 

ance of the captain, who frowned most terribly upon the 
poor woman, and bid her in a stern voice to quit the 
room, put an end to our conversation at a moment when 
I expected to reap some benefit from it. 

After walking the room for some time, the captain 
stopped, and in a voice at once stern and commanding, 
censured my conduct for talking to the woman. " You 
know very well," said he, " that I am to a certain degree 
responsible for the many liberties with which you have 
been indulged since you came here : as long as you re- 
main quiet, and make no attempts to leave this place, you 
shall be treated with as much kindness as possible ; but 
the moment you attempt to gain any information respect- 
ing the situation of the place in which you are confined, 
a severe punishment awaits you." Having said this, he 
shut the door and departed, leaving me more disappoint- 
ed at not gaining the information I sought^ than alarmed 
at his threats. 

The next day the old lady again appeared, but I 
judged it not prudent to speak to her. My books were 
my only employment, and 1 was sometimes busied in 
conjectures on that part of the old woman's discourse 
which she had left unfinished. I could not make it out, 
although I believed myself to be nearer the territories of 
the United States than I had before thought. 

The time now passed heavily away ; but on the fifth 
day, at about four o'clock in the afternoon, I heard noises 
which induced me to think that the party had returned 
from their expedition. In a few minutes the door of my 
foom was opened by a person who brought a request 
from the captain that I would immediately come to him. 
When I came to his room he received me with cordial- 



KER'S TRAVELS. 289 

ity, and told me that he wanted me to do something for 
his lieutenant, who had been badly wounded. I went to 
the chamber of the lieutenant, and found that he had re- 
ceived a severe sabre cut in the thick part of his thigh, 
and that he was very weak from the loss of blood, I had 
still some of the leaves which had been given me by the 
Mnacedeus tribe of Indians, who described them as being 
very excellent in curing fresh cut wounds : I sent for my 
chest, and applied some of them to the cut, at the same 
time directing him to keep quiet, and not to drink any ar- 
dent spirits. 

I returned to the room, and found the party preparing 
for a grand festival, which was to celebrate their return 
to their habitation ; the great hall was lighted, and all 
was bustlCj in the kitchen. About ten o'clock the sup- 
per was ready, and I again took my seat by the side of the 
captain, who appeared in an unusually good humour. 
They soon began to offer copious libations to Bacchus, 
and noisy mirth reigned throughout the hall. I soon saw 
that perfect cordiality did not reign among the whole 
party. Secret whisperings, and i?ow and then an oath 
of defiance, seemed to show that they were determined 
to oppose whoever attempted any thing contrary to their 
wishes. The captain's countenance now assumed that 
gloomy ferocity which was the forerunner of a storm, and 
he sat in sullen silence. At last, Jim, who had been the 
foremost in opposing my having the liberty of the hall, 
asked the captain if he intended to divide it equally with 
them. His countenance now assumed the liveliest red : 
" Do you think that I am to be dictated to ?" said he- 
" No, captain," replied Jim, " nor are we fools enough 
to toil and bleed for anotlier to carry off the spoil wh^ 

37 



290 KER'S TRAVELS. 

does not deserve it." " You scoundrel," exclaimed the 
captain, " do you grumble at my authority ; I will blow 
you into eternity in a moment :" with this he drew out 
a brace of pistols and fired at Jim, who fell, and the cap- 
tain prepared to finish his work with his sabre. The rest 
of the company now gathered round, and endeavoured to 
appease the captain's rage ; they were as humble now in 
their intreaties for the life of the culprit, as they had be- 
fore been menacing in their deportment. At their ear- 
nest request the captain agreed to spare his life, but put 
him into close confinement until he should recover, when 
he was to be tried by the laws of the gang. 

The captain retired to his room, and I judged it best 
for me to go to mine, as he was unfit for conversation. 
In the morning he sent for me, and when I came in I 
found him counting some money. He motioned for me 
to sit down, and when he had put his gold in a paper he 
requested me to inform him how far I intended travelling 
when I was taken. I informed him, and he dien told me 
that he had resolved to give me my liberty. " My rea- 
sons for so doing," said he, "^are a profound secret to 
the whole gang ; but I feel for your situation ; you are 
deserving of a better fate than awaits you here. I feel a 
presentiment that my stay here is not long, and if I 
bhould be killed I know of no one that would afford you 
protection." 

My feelings were such that 1 remained silent and mo- 
tionless. The captain, perceiving my surprise, said to 
me, " I don't doubt you are much surprised at my de- 
termination. You considered yourself, and with good 
reason, among a band of robbery who show mercy to no 
one. You were not mistaken. There are some amonc: 



?h<^ 



KER'S TRAVELS. 291 

us of this gang who are a disgrace to civilized man, 
and who think themselves at the summit of human happi- 
ness if they have m\ opportunity to hurl distress and mis- 
ery among their fellow creatures. Although I am captain 
of this gang, and may l^e considered as countenancing 
every act of cruelty which is committed, and as having 
no feelings but those of rapine and plunder, yet a spark 
will sometimes fly off from those principles which were 
inculcated with care by fond and indulgent parents. My 
prospects in life were as bright, in the morning of my 
days, as those of any young man. I laid my head on 
my pillow at night but to devise new pleasures, and 
waked in the morning but to enjoy them ; but dissipa- 
tion soon became an attendant on my steps, and from 
first plunging into debt, and then into dishonour, my 
name became as much hated and despised as it had be- 
fore been honoured and respected." His countenance 
discovered the most violent agitation, and his whole 
frame shook with convulsion while he spoke : when he 
had ended, he t;urned from me. 

I now assured him of my gratitude for his intended 
favours, and told him that any thing which it was in my 
power to do for him, he might rest assured should be 
done by me with pleasure. " From the late conversation 
I have had with you," said I, " and from the confidence 
with which you have favoured mc, I have reasons for be- 
lieving that there are moments when you feel a degree of 
horror at your present pursuits and practices. If you 
wish or expect to enjoy any happiness here or hereafter, 
'you must abandon the society you at present associate 
with. If, on my arrivat in the United States, I can be 
^strumental in affording you any assistance, hQ assured 



292 KER»S TRAVELS. 

that I shall do it with pleasure. As it is, I am truly 
grateful to you for the favour you intend me, and have 
no doubt you will readily agree with me that there is 
more pleasure in giving than in receiving the means of 
happiness ; and that, in contemplating its benign influ- 
ence, you perceive both the propriety and the excellency 
of that divine aphorism, " It is more .blessed to give than 
to receive." 

He^ remained for some time silent, and at last ob- 
served, -' Your observation is correct : I cannot expect 
any happiness here, nor do I receive any only when I am 
sunk in intoxication, and my passions have gained an 
ascendancy over my reason ,- then, for a moment, I feel 
insensible to every thing but the gratification of my ap- 
petites, and sink to rest in delusive happiness ; but in the 
morning the phantom has fled, I am still the wretch I was 
the morning before, and happiness seems to be farther 
removed than even As it respects assistance, you can 
be of no service to me : I am fixed, and must here drag 
out a miserable existence until death ^terminates the 
scene. I shall call for you to night at twelve o'clock, 
but you must solemnly swear that you will not speak, nor 
stir from the place where I shall lead you, until you hear 
the report of a pistol, and that you will then take the road 
which leads you straight forward." 

I readily consented: he then observed, " You had 
some property which it will be impossible for me to re- 
store to you, as we are much in want of good horses ; but 
you will receive this gold," said he, handing me a parcel, 
" as a compensation, and this," he added, presenting me 
with another, " as a mark of my esteem." A bell now 



KER'S TRAVELS. 293 

summoned him to the hall : he bid me remember twelve 
that night, and left me. 



CHAP. XXIX. 

Preparations for leaving the cavern — Melanchs)ly fate 
of Edom — Departure — Precautions observed by the 
captain — Reflections on my former situation and pres- 
ent prospects — Get information of my journey — Arri- 
val at Natchitoches. 

I RETIRED to my room, and began to make prepara- 
tions for my departure. The late conversations I had had 
with the the captain, convinced me that he was not entire- 
ly steeled against the calls of conscience, though his 
pride was yet too great to permit him to leave the com- 
pany he was associated with. 

I had hitherto heard nothing of my faithful negro, who 
had been separated from me on being taken into the; 
cavern, and all my attempts to get any information of 
him had hitherto proved fruitless. When my dinner 
was served, I sent a note to the^ captain, requesting the 
liberty of seeing him. My request being granted, in 
about half an hour I repaired to his chamber. 

After a little common conversation, I told the captain 
that the reason of my visit was to inquire about my negro. 
I observed to him that he had been of great service to 
me in all my travels, and almost my constant comp^ion 
through dreary forests that had never before been trodden 



294 KER'S TRAVELS. 

by civilized man ; that in my dangers and perils he had 
shown an attachment to me superior to tliat generally 
evinced by a servant to his master. " I am sorry," said 
the captain, " that it is not in my power to give you 
any pleasant information of him ; but, the second night 
after his arrival here, he had a quarrel with one of the 
band, who stabbed him with a sabre, and he fell dead at 
his feet. I should have mentioned this circumstance to 
you sooner, but I did not wish to give you any uneasi- 
ness." 

I remained silent, for my feelings were such that I 
could not give them utterance. The captain saw I was 
affected, and said, " It is with regret, I perceive, that 
you receive intelligence of the death of your negro, but 
it was impossible for me to avoid it, and I hope it will 
not cloud your present expected happiness ; all depends 
on your being secret and active in your exertions after 
you leave the cave, and I think it advisable that you 
should leave me until such time as I send for you, as our 
being together may excite suspicion after you are gone." 
I bowed in silence and immediately left the room. 

About twelve o'clock my door turned slowly upon its 
hinges, and the captain entered ; he bowed and seated 
himself. We both remained silent for some moments ; 
at last he said, " Are you ready ?" I told him I was. 
" Let us be gone then," said he, " for we have no time 
to lose." I arose, and in a few minutes we left the cham- 
ber, and proceeded in silence through a number of 
winding passages. At last we came to one much wider, 
and which appeared to be the grand entrance ; here he 
stopped and told me Jie must blindfold me. " You need 
be under no apprehensions," said he ; " it is impossible 

^4 



KER'S TRAVELS. 295 

for us to be discovered, as we are at some distance from 
the rooms which are inhabited by the men.'* I sub- 
mitted in silence, and in a few minutes he took me by 
the hand, and conducted me along the passage. The 
air now became more damp, and I judged from the feel- 
ing that we were on a level with the sea, or some neigh- 
bouring river. 

After walking half an hour, as near as I could judge, 
we began to rise a steep ascent, which was winding,' 
and in many places uneven. I now began to feel the 
fresh air of night, and heard the wind whistling in the 
trees. I felt revived, and insensibly increased my pace. 
In a few minutes the captain whispered, you are no\v free 
from the cavern, but speak not a word lest you should- 
be betrayed. 

Words cannot describe my joy at once more being 
free from my dismal abode. I involuntarily clasped his 
hand, and we proceeded in silence for some considerable 
distance, oftentimes going through a winding path which 
rendered it impossible for me to judge exactly the route 
^ve were pursuing. In about an hour he stopped, and 
told me that I was now in a road which would lead me' 
on my journey, but that I must beware not to stir until I 
heard the report of a pistol ; he advised me, as I valued 
my existence, to pursue the road which I should find 
before me. He informed me that about a mile on the 
road I should find a horse ready saddled, which I mus^ 
take, and pursue my journey with all speed. 

Here he made a full stop, and seemed violently agi 
tated. At last, grasping my hand with both of his, he 
exclaimed, with a visible tremor in his voice, " Fai'e- 
^vell ; may you be happy. You go to meet friends, wl^rv 



296 KER'S TRAVELS. 

anxiously expect your arrival, and will receive you with 
rejoicing, whilst 1 am an outcast and a villain, and my 
name is only remembered to be execrated for my base- 
ness." He again shook me by the hand, and, after cau- 
tioning me not to remove the bandage from my eyes un- 
til I should hear the report of the pistol, he left me. 

I listened with some attention to hear in what direc- 
tion his footsteps sounded, but after he had taken three 
or four steps, it was impossible for me to hear the least 
sound, except the rustling of the leaves on the trees. I 
waited with anxious impatience for the report of the pis- 
tol, and was many times on the point of tearing the ban- 
dage from my eyes. About an hour had elapsed, when 
I heard the distant report of a pistol, which could be just 
distinguished. 

I instantly tore the bandage from my eyes, and beheld 
myself at the entrance of a road which led along a rich 
and fertile valley. I pursued the path with eagerness, 
and, after walking about a mile, saw a horse tied to a tree, 
which I instantly loosed and mounted. 

The day was just dawning, and my course lay through 
a level and fertile plain, where every thing had the most 
beautiful and lively appearance. Flowers, full and per- 
fect, as though they had been cultivated by the hand of 
the florist, with all their captivating odours, and with all 
the variegated charms that colour and nature can produce^ 
here, in the lap of elegance and beauty, decorated the 
smiling groves. Soft zephyrs gently breathed a thousand 
sweets, and the inhaled air gave a voluptuous glow of 
health and vigour that intoxicated my senses. The 
songsters of the forest had just begun their sweet song 
of morning praise, and appeared to feel the influence of 



KER'S TRAVELS. 297 

this genial clime, and in more soft and modulated tones, 
warble their tender notes in unison with love and nature. 
Every thing here gave delight ; and in the bright efFul-- 
gence of the " god of day," which had just risen above 
the eastern horizon, and shed his beams around, I felt a 
glow of gratitude for that elevation which our all bountiful 
Creator had bestowed upon us. I felt gratitude for my libe- 
ration from the horrors of captivity, and from the society of 
wretches who were a disgrace to the human species ; and 
it brought to my mind so forcibly the lines of a favourite 
poet, that I could not help exclaiming, 

** 'Tis liberty alone that gives the flower 
Of fleeting life its lustre and perfume. 
And we arie weeds Avithout it." 

At dark I encamped, after having come nearly thirty- 
five miles. 

I now examined the gold which the captain had given 
me the preceding day, and found a liberal price for my 
mules, and as much more as a present from the captain. 
I had been about six weeks among them, and had it not 
been for the friendship of the captain, I should probably 
have been confined for my lifetime. I had, however, lost 
very little, except the company of my faithful negroj who 
had been the constant companion of my travels, and I 
now missed his society very much. 

I arose very early in the morning, and proceeded on 
my journey. I was anxious to reach some place where 
I could gain information of the nearest route to the 
United States, for I did not know ^vhether I was goinp- 
towards that country or not. About noon I came to a place 
where the road appeared to be much travelled, and I 



298 KER'S TRAVELS. 

pushed forward, in hopes of meeting some person whd 
could give me the information I wanted. Night coming 
on obhged me to encamp, after having come thirty-eight 
miles. 

I started forward in the morning, and at about eight 
o'clock overtook three men who were travelling on to- 
wards the Tuscarora tribe of Indians, to trade for furs. 
I enquired what distance I was from the United States, 
and they told me it was ninety miles to Natchitoches. 
This was the most agreeable intelligence I could receive ; 
I thanked them, and rode forward with a much quicker 
pace. At night I encamped, after having come forty- 
miles. 

My next day's journey was through a fertile country ; 
the soil is formed on a bed of limestone, which ex- 
tends from west to easty and is covered by a rich black 
soil, which is generally about the depth of two feet, and 
in some places it is five or six. The weather was re- 
markably serene, and I travelled this day about thirty- 
five miles. 

I started early the next morning, and about eight 
o'clock met two hunters, who were going out to get 
skins : they told me they left Natchitoches the preceding' 
day, and should not return under three months. I rode 
on, and about three o'clock arrived in town, at my 
friend, Mr. Potter's, who received me with a hearty 
welcome. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 29^ 



CHAP. XXX. 



Departure from Natchitoches for the . Tuckapau town — 
General description of the town — Cultivation of the 
sugar cane much attended to — Apalusa town — De- 
'scription of it — Departure for Gibsonport — Descrip- 
tion of that town — Chickasaw nation — Nashville — 
Celebration of the fourth of July — Patriotism of the 
inhabitants — Elegant toasts — Ge?ieral description of 
Nashville — Leave Nashville — Some account of the 
enchanted mountain, 

JVIay 10th, 1814. My arrival in Natchitoches had been 
unexpected by me, as I had intended coming through 
the Tuckapau and Apalusa towns, and my arrangements 
for that purpose were such as to induce me to repair to 
these places. After remaining a short time with my 
friends, and recruiting my spirits, I set forward on my 
journey. 

As the route was entirely through a country which has 
very little to recommend it to the attention of the travels 
ler, or through such parts of the country as I have alrea- 
dy described, I shall avoid a tedious and uninteresting 
description of my journey, and shall conduct my readers 
immediately to the Tuckapau town. 

The Tuckapau town was originally settled by French- 
men, but is now within the limits of the United States : 
it is situated on the Tallapoose river, which is the north- 
east branch of the Alabama, or Mobile river. This 
river rises in the high lands near the Cherokces, and runt 



300 KER'S TRAVELS. 

through the high country of the Oakfuskee tribe, in a 
westerly direction, and is full of rocks, falls, and shoals, 
until it reaches the Tuckafaches, when it becomes deep 
and quiet : from thence its course is west about forty 
miles to the town of the Tuckapaus. This river is three 
hundred yards broad, and fifteen or twenty feet deep in 
the time of freshets. 

The cultivation of the sugar cane has been considera- 
bly attended to in this town. It was first planted by 
Madame Somor, a lady who has displayed considerable 
enterprise in its cultivation. Her success has induced a 
mimber of other persons to try the experiment, and sugar 
is now raised in considerable quantities, and will, at some 
future period, become an article of much consequence to 
its inhabitants. The success which has attended the cul- 
tivation of the sugarcane iathis place, has induced ma- 
ny of the inhabitants of Georgia to try the experiment, 
and the result has been, tliat very favourable crops have 
been raised, and it is thought the cultivation of it would 
be attended with much success in Georgia and Souths 
Carolina, and enable our country, at no very distant peri- 
od, to become independent of the West-India islands for 
supplies of that article. 

Around the town are large prairies, interspersed with 
tufts of trees, which have a very handsome and picturesqtle 
appearance. The country is very unhealthy in the rainy 
season, ^vhich is owing to the low situation of the town 
and the dampness of the air. The river is only naviga- 
ble in the time of freshets, the other seasons of the year 
the water being so low as to render it impossible even for 
batteaux to come up to the town. In going down they 
#rst descend the Plucemin for about six miles, when it 



KER'S TRAVELS. 501 

opens into a large lake on the right : the other branch 
runs about nine hundred miles, and empties into the 
sea. 

Tliis lake is large and extensive, and empties itself in- 
to the Bistash. There are large numbers of alligators in 
this lake, which are said to be very fat. During the last 
war, a number of men employed themselves in catching 
these alligators, from one of which they would extract 
four or five gallons of oil, that answei'ed all the purposes 
of the best fish oil. From the large number of alligators 
which are said to infest this lake, there is no doubt but 
that four or five thousand gallons of this oil might be 
procured in a year- 

After my business was settled at the Tuckapau, I 
started from thence to the Apalusa town, ^vhich is thirty- 
two miles distant. The houses in the latter place are 
many of them neady built, "and there is a handsome 
church, built by the missionaries. There are in this town 
about five hundred inhabitants, who manufacture the most 
of their own wearing apparel. It is a thriving little place, 
and the inhabitants have the appeai'ance of being very 
healthy. 

I here met with three men who were going through the 
wilderness to the state of Tennessee, and I agreed to join 
them. We were ready to start in a few days, and travel- 
led with considerable expedition. My companions had 
been purchasing furs, and trading about the Apalusas, for 
about six months, and one of them told me he calculated 
they had made two thousafid dollars, clear of the articles 
they took out, and all their expenses. , They had some 
valuable furs, which cost them but a trifle, and which 
sold very high in Nashville, iUthough it ^^'as my op'm^ 



302 KER'S TRAVELS. 

ion that they would have done much better to have de- 
scended the river to Natches. 

We arrived, without any accident, at Gibsonport, in 
the Missisippi territory, where we staid a few days to 
rest ourselves, and recruit our horses ; during which time 
I collected the following particulars. 

The town of Gibsonport is situated on a small creek, 
which is about thirty-five miles frorn the river : it has 
been settled but a short time, and is a very thriving little 
place, containing about fifty houses and four hundred in- 
habitants. The inhabitants manufacture the most of 
their own clothing. The land is rich, producing from 
si^ty to seventy bushels of Indian corn to the acre, and 
generally thirty-five or forty bushels of wheat. The town 
is very healdiy, and there is not a resident physician be- 
longing to the town. 

In four days we again started, and proceeded through 
a beautiful and rich tract of country to Nashville. We 
saw nothing worthy of notice until we arrived at the prin- 
cipal town of the Chickasaw Indians, a famous nation of 
"warriors, who inhabit the country on the east side of the 
Missisippi, on the head branches of the Tombigbee, 
Mobile, and Yazoo rivers, and north of the country of 
the Choctaws. Their country is an extensive plain, tol- 
erably well watered from springs, and of a pretty good 
soil. The number of souls in this nation may be about 
two thousand, of which five hundred are fighting men. 
The town is situated on the side of a hill, and the inhab- 
itants are industrious, and a few of them attend to agri- 
culture. 

The land on this road is rich, producing cane, rye- 
grass, and the native clover. The cane is a reed th?J. 



■^i 



KER'S TRAVELS. 303 

grows frequently to the height of fifteen or sixteen feet, 
but more generally about ten or twelve, and is in thick- 
ness from the size of a goose quill to that of two inches 
diameter ; sometimes, though seldom, it is larger. When it 
is slender it never grows higher than from four to seven 
feet. It shoots up in one summer, but produces no 
leaves until the following year. It is an evergreen, and is 
perhaps the most nourishing food for cattle upon earth. 
No other milk or butter has such flavour and richness as 
that which is produced from cows which feed upon cane. 
Horses which feed upon it work nearly as well as if they 
were fed upon corn, provided care is taken to give them, 
once in thre^ or four days, a handful of salt ; other- 
wise this food is apt to injure them. The rye- 
grass, when it arrives at maturity, is from two feet 
and a half to three and a half high ; the head and beard 
resemble the real rye, and sometimes produce a small 
grain, long and slender, not unlike rye. The clover is 
in no respect different from that which is cultivated in 
other parts of America, but it is more coarse and luxuri,-^ 
ant. There is a variety of other kinds of grass 
found in different parts of the forest, but they do not 
grow with such luxuriance as diose which I have men- 
tioned. 

On the 3d of July I arrived at Nashville, and found 
all bustle and preparation for the celebration of the birth- 
day of the United States. Every citizen, from the day- 
labourer, to the man who could count thousands, was 
anxiously anticipating the moment, when the thunder of 
cannon would announce the dawn of that day which gave 
his nation a rank among the empires of the world. 



304 KER'S TRAVELS. 

My feelings were in unison with those of the people,' 
and I felt desirous of partaking in the festivities of the 
day. A polite invitation which I received from a gentle- 
man who was present at the inn when I alighted, accom- 
panied with a ticket which gave me admission to one of 
the principal dinner parties the next day, gave me a fa- 
vourable opportunity for gratifying my wishes in this re- 
spect. The politeness and attention which I received 
from a number of gentlemen with whom I was not per- 
sonally acquainted, can only be accounted for by my be- 
ing in a land of freemen^ with whom hospitality and po^- 
liteness are not only natural, but easy. 

The next morning the dawning of day was ushered in 
by the discharge of seventeen cannon, and joy and mirth 
seemed to have taken possession of the town. The day 
was remarkably fine, and a light shower of rain which had 
fallen the preceding day, had contributed to lay the dust, 
and rendered the promenading pleasant and agreeable. 

About ten o'clock the different independent companies 
paraded through the town, and exhibited a very martial 
appearance. Although many of the citizens were absent 
on military duty, defending their country from foreign 
invasion on its northern or ^vestem frontiers, yet the spirit 
of the inhabitants was not damped by this partial depopu- 
lation, and there is no doubt, had the exigency of the 
public service required it, but that the Tennesseeans 
would have turned out to a man, and rallied around 
the standard of their country. 

At twelve o'clock a procession was formed at the 
court-house, which proceeded to the Presbyterian meet- 
ing-house, where an appropriate oration was pronounced 
by a young man, who acquitted himself with much credit 



KER'S TRAVELS. 305 

and reputation. The solemnities were concluded with a 
short and impressive address to the throne of ^ace. The 
procession was again formed, and proceeded in regular 
order to the principal tavern, where a plentiful and ele- 
gant dinner was provided. 

The dinner-hall was decorated in a style of neatness 
and elegance which gave much satisfaction. Paintings 
representing some of the most distinguished naval and 
military battles of die war were hung in conspicuous 
places ; portraits of the most distinguished officers in 
the American service, decorated the sides of the hall, and 
the whole interspersed with festoons of roses, and wreaths 
of laural, which had a very novel and pleasing effect, and 
gave animation and variety to the scene. 

At two o'clock, the party, consisting of about ninety 
gentlemen, sat down to a dinner, which for the variet}^ 
of its dishes, and the delicacy and costliness of its viands, 
challenged the cities of New- York or Philadelphia to 
exceed. When all was arranged, a short and elegant 
prayer was delivered by one of the clergymen who .had 
officiated during the day. This being done, each one 
took his seat, and mirth and hilarity reigned throughout 
the assembly. 

After the cloth was removed, a number of appropiiate 
toasts were drank, which at once displayed the spirit of 
the people, and the contempt in which they held any for- 
eign invasion. The distinguished chiefs of the revolu- 
tionaiy war were not forgotten, while those who were 
then toiling, or had recently bled in the service of their 
country, received the well-earned tribute of praise. 1 
select the following, as most characteristic of their feel 
ings and sentiments, 

39 



306 KER'S TRAVELS. 

" The memory of the immortal Washingto n — He 
has built his own mausoleum, the grateful hearts of hap- 
py millions of freemen. 

" The DAY we celebrate — May our posterity preserve 
inviolate the liberties which are transmitted to them by 
their ancestors. 

" Brigadier-gerieral Nash, who fell on the 4th Oct. 
1777 — He was a patriot in times which " tried men's 
souls ;" may our youth not only Generate the name, but 
emulate the example of so distinguished a chieftain. 

" The memory of the immortal Lawrence, who glo^ 
riously fell fighting in defence of his country's rights. 

" How sleep the brave, who sink to rest 
With all their country's wishes blest. 
"When spring, with dewy fingers cold. 
Returns to deck their hallowed mould. 
She there shall dress a sweeter sbd 
Than fancy's feet have ever trod." 

The day Was spent with the utmost good humour, 
jind in the evening we all separated for our respective 
homes with order and decency. Our late festivities might 
with propriety be styled the " feast of reason and the flow 
of soul." 

Nashville is the chief town of Mero district, Davidson 
county, and is pleasantly situated on the south bank of 
Cumberland river, where it is about two hundred yards 
broad. It was called Nashville in honour of brigadier- 
general Nash, who fell at the battle of Germantown. The 
town is regularly laid out, and well built, and contains 
about one thousand inhabitants. It has a court-house, 
and is the seat of the courts held semi-annually for the 
district of Mero, and of the courts of pleas and quartei 



KER^S TRAVELS. 307 

.•sessions for Davidson county. There are two houses 
for public worship, besides a Methodist chapel. Here is 
also an academy, which is handsomely endowed, and well 
supplied with teachers. 

The lands about Nashville are rich, and divided by 
the farmers into first, second, and third quality. Land 
of the first quality will bear Indian corn or hemp, but it 
will not bear wheat without being reduced. Land of 
the second quality does not bear wheat to advantage un- 
til it has been reduced by two or three crops of corn, 
hemp, tobacco, or cotton. Land of the third quality 
bears every kind of grain that is usually sown on dry 
ground in the Atlantic states. It is asserted as a commoii 
thing for the land to produce from seventy to eighty 
bushels of Indian corn to the acre. The soil is deep 
and light, being a small mixture of sand with a black 
earth ; hence the farmers assert that it will prove favour- 
able to the culture of all kinds of roots, as well as of in- 
digo and cotton. 

I left Nashville on the 12th of July, and proceeded ott 
my journey to Knoxville, which is the largest town in 
the state. On my route I passed over Cumberland moun- 
tain, which, in its whole extent from the Great Kanhawa 
to the Tennessee river, consists of the most stupendous 
piles of craggy rocks of any mountain in the western 
country. In several parts of it, for miles, it is inaccessi- 
ble even to the Indians on foot. In one place particulai*- 
ly, near the summit of the mountain, there is a most re- 
iparkable ledge of rocks, of about thirty miles in length 
and two hundred feet in thickness, showing a perpendicu- 
lar face to the southeast more noble and grand than an} 
artificial fortification in the kno^vn world, and apparently 



308 KER'S TRAVELS. 

equal in point of regularity. Through this stupendous 
pile, according to some modern authors, the waters of all 
the upper branches of the Tennessee forced their way- 
The attempt would have been impracticable at any other 
place than the one mentioned, for more than one hundred 
miles eastwardly. Here, then, seems to have been the 
chasm left by the Creator to convey off those waters, 
which must otherwise have overflowed, and rendered use- 
less a vast tract of valuable country enclosed within the 
mountain. 

The enchanted mountain, about two miles south of 
Brasstown, is principally remarkable for the curiosities 
on its rocks. There are on several of the rocks' a num- 
ber of impressions, resembling the tracks of tlirkies, 
bears, horses, and human beings, as visible and perfect 
as they could be made in snow or sand. The latter tracks 
are remarkable for having uniformly six toes each, only 
one excepted, which appears to be the print of a negro's 
foot. By this it may be supposed that the originals 
were the progeny of Titan or Anak. One of these tracks 
is very large, the length of the foot being sixteen inches, 
the proximate breadth behind the toes seven inches, and 
the diameter of the heel- ball five. One of the horse tracks 
is likewise of an uncommon size, the transverse and con- 
jugate diameters being eight by ten inches ; perhaps the 
horse which some mighty warrior rode. What appears 
the most in favour of these being the real tracks of the 
animals they represent, is the circumstance of a track 
which appears to have been made by the slipping of a 
horse's foot several inches, and the same kind of tracks 
having all the same direction, like the trail of a company 
on a journey. If it be a lusus natures ^ the old dame 



KER'S TRAVELS. 309 

never sported more seriously ; if the operation of chance, 
never was there more apparent design. If it were done 
by art, it might be to perpetuate the remembrance of 
some remarkable event of war, or engagement fought on 
the ground. The vast heaps of stones near the place, 
f5aid to be the tombs of warriors slain in battle, seem to 
favour the supposition. The texture of the rock is soft 
and can be easily cut with a knife, and appears to be of 
the nature of the pipe- stone. Some of the tribes of In- 
dians entertain an opinion that it rains whenever any one 
visits the place, as if sympathetic nature wept at the re- 
collection of the dreadful catastrophe which those figures 
were intended to represent. 

I met with no occurrence which is worth relating, my 
j ourney being mostly through a wilderness ^vhich had not 
yet been subject to the culturing hand of man, and on the 
evening of the fifth day I arrived at Knoxville. 



CHAP. XXXL 

« 

Knoxville — Medicinal spri?ig — Quality of the land — 
Rogersville — Greenville — Jonesborough — Mingdon — .- 
Taarsville — Georgetown. 

K-NoxviLLE is built in one of the most beautiful situa- 
tions that the state of Tennessee affords. It enjoys a 
communication widi every part of the state, and is one 
of the most flourij^hing places in the western country. It 
is situated on the Holston river,, twentv-t^vo miles abo^'f • 



filO KER'S TRAVELS. 

its junction with the Tennessee, and four miles below 
the mouth of French Broad, or Frank river. The town 
is regularly laid out, and contains about two hundred 
houses and one thousand inhabitants. Here is a court- 
house, gaol, and barracks large enough to contain one 
thousand men. A very elegant church has lately been 
huilt, and there are a number of handsome houses now 
building, some of which are three stories high. Here 
are five stores for European and West- India goods. 
There are a number of branches of mechanical business 
caried on by the inhabitants, and the mechanics receive a 
liberal price for their labour. 

llie district courts of the United States are held semi- 
annually here and at Nashville. A college has been 
erected here, which is handsomely endowed, and will in 
time become a valuable institution ; it is called Blount 
college. 

The river Holston is three hundred yards wide oppo- 
site to Knoxville, and affords a fine navigation for the 
conveyance of produce from the town. 

On Frank river, not far distant from this town, a 
large, clear, medicinal spring has lately been discovered, 
"which, on experiments being made, has been found to 
reheve various complaints of tlie human body ; its temv 
perature rather exceeds blood heat. The water of this 
spring contains iron, a mineral alkali, common salt, and 
lime. From the fixed air it contains it sometimes has 
in a small degree the effect of spiritous liquors. Physi- 
cians seldom direct more than three quarts of this water 
to be drank in a day, but I have known some who have 
taken as many gallons. This water is injurious in all 
consumptive complaints, and to all habits prone to in- 



KER'S TRAVELS. 311 

flammation. It gives relief in difficulty of digestion, want 
of appetite, hypochondria, and all those complaints in 
either sex for which chalybeates are proper. The stone, 
gravel, and phthisic, have been relieved by a free use of 
this water. 

The land in the neighbourhood of Knoxville is in ma- 
ny places rich and fertile, and many parts of it are thickly 
studded with poplar, hickory, black walnut, buck-eye, 
or the horse chesnut, sycamore, locust, and sugar maple 
trees. The undergrowth in many places is cane, fifteen 
or twenty feet high, and so close as to exclude all other 
plants : where the cane does not abound, we find red bud, 
wild plum, spicewood, red and white mulberry, ginseng, 
Virginia and Seneca snakeroot, angelica, sweet anise, 
ginger, and wild hops. 

The woods abound with a plenty of game, such as 
pheasants, partridges, or quails, and turkies in abundance 
through the year. During the winter season the waters 
of the French Broad aiFord plenty of swans, wild geese, 
brant, and ducks. Catfish have been caught in that river 
that weighed upwards of one hundred pounds, and perch 
that weighed more than twenty pounds. 

After remaining a few days, I set out from Knoxville 
for Rogersville, which is distant sixty-four miles. The 
morning was cloudy, and the thermometer stood at 60** , 
In the evening I put up at Bean Station, which is twenty- 
seven miles distant from Rogersville. The inn had tol^ 
erably good accommodations, and my landlord was civil, 
but so very inquisitive that I hardly had time to answer 
one question before another was asked. At last I looked 
him seriously in the face, and asked him if he was not a 
yankee. He took the hint, and eaid hc^ supposed I 



312 KER'S TRAVELS. 

thought so from his asking a number of questions. He 
immediately withdrew, and after eating a hearty supper I 
retired to bed. 

The next morning being clear, I set forward, and pro- 
ceeded through an agreeable country, fertile and well wa- 
tered. About ten miles distant from Bean Station, I found 
a man who was travelling my road, and who appeared to 
possess some considerable information. I asked him 
how long he had been in the country. He replied that 
Jie had been here about two years ; that he emigrated 
from the state of Pennsylvania, and purchased one hun- 
dred acres of land on Clinch river, and that he had since 
purchased about two hundred acres more. He said that 
the lands were rich, and would produce about 70 or 
80 bushels of Indian corn to the acre. He recommended 
the country very highly, and assured me that he had 
never been more healthy in his life. " Formerly," said 
he, "I ^vas troubled with a severe pain in the breast, and 
difficulty of breathing, but now I am perfectly healthy^ 
and free from any pain." 

About 4 o'clock in the afternoon, I entered Rogersville, 
a pleasant and thriving little town, the capital of Hawkins 
county. It contains about thirty houses, and about ninety 
inhabitants. It has a court-house, in which the business 
of the county of Hawkins is transacted. The tavern is 
well kept and furnishes good accommodations. 

In the morning, about six o'clock, I went on for 
Greenville, which is situated about twenty-six miles from 
Rogersville. I passed several well cultivated plantations, 
which appeared to raise all the necessaries of life in abun- 
dance. Apples, pears, and other fruit, are not as yet 
plenty in tliis country, although the farmers attend to the 



KER'S TRAVELS. 313 

r?iising of them, and will soon be able to make excellent 
cider. Whiskey is made in large quantities ; but as it is, 
to use the expression of Dr. Belknap, " the bane of so- 
ciety," it is hoped it will give place to less ardent and 
more nourishing liquors. 

As I travelled leisurely, I did not arrive in Greenville 
until three o'clock. It is a small place, of about forty 
houses, and one hundred and fifty inhabitants. It is sit- 
uated on the west side of the northeast branch of the 
Nolachuckee river, six miles distant from Greenville 
college. It is a post town, and promises to be a tliriving 
little place. 

The road from thence to Jonesborough is level, and 
very good. The weather was clear and remarkably mild 
for the season, and I could travel all day without any 
inconyenience. 

In the evening I arrived at Jonesborough, the chief 
town of Washington district ; it is weU laid out, and 
contains many houses which are handsomely built* 
Here is a court-house, in which the district and county 
court business is done. It is a healthy place, and the 
inhabitants manufacture most of their own clothing. 

In the morning I started forward with the intention of 
plroceeding to Abingdon in Virginia, which is sixty -four 
itiiles from Jonesborough. I'he day was fine, and at 
night I put up at a neat public house, ^vhere I was fur- 
nished with a good supper and bed ; this, it may be ob- 
served, is generally the case in these parts. They have 
plenty of good ducks and chickens, and their cellars af- 
ford them a plenty of ham and smoked beef, so that let a 
traveller call at what hour of the day he may, in a few 
minutes they will furnish him with a broiled chicken, 

40 



314 KER'S TRAVELS. 

some excellent ham, and a plenty of good bread and po^ 
tatoes, raised on their own farms. 

In the morning I found a gentleman who was going 
towards Abingdon, and we agreed to proceed in compa- 
ny. He was a Virginian, and had been into the state of 
Tennessee to purchase land. He told me that he had 
bought one hundred and twenty acres of excellent land 
at forty dollars per acre, and that he judged it to be as 
good as any land in the state of Virginia. What a trifle 
to render a man independent, while in Europe the same 
sum will scarcely maintain a family and pay the enormous 
taxes for one year ! 

We pushed on with considerable speed, and late in the 
evening arrived at Abingdon, having co^ne forty miles, 
I immediately put up at a genteel boarding-house and 
soon retired to rest, and did not rise in the morning till 
the bell summoned me to the breakfast table. 

Abingdon is the chief town of Washington county, 
Virginia, containing about two hundred houses. It is 
well laid out, and is a healthy and agreeable little place. 
Here is a court-house and meeting-house, and eight 
stores for European goods, 

I remained in Abingdon two days, as my horse had 
become lame. He had been rode very hard for a few days 
past, but being in every respect a sound and good bodied 
horse, he recovered in a few days, and was fit to pro- 
ceed. 

The morning was pleasant, and the travelUng very 
good. I rode forward through a country which was 
agreeably interspersed with farm-houses and fields under 
excellent cultivation. I stopped to dine with a gentle- 
man of the name of Williams, who entertained me ^\'ith 



KER'S TRAVELS. 315 

Anuch hospitality. He told me he liad about sixty acres 
of excellent land under cultivation, and nearly ninety 
more which he intended clearing as soon as possible. 
He had four promising children, whose round faces and 
rosy cheeks proclaimed them in a land of plenty. 

In the evening I put up with a planter who had re- 
cently removed to this country ; he appeared contented 
with his situation, and spake with confidence of making 
great improvements on his land in the course of a few 
years. 

I proceeded along a road which was low and marshy ; 
about twelve o'clock the road became better. I stopped 
to dine wida a gentleman of the name of Harcourt, whose 
house is situated at a small distance from the road. In 
the evening I put up at a farm house, where I had good 
substantial fare and a good bed. 

I started about six o'clock in the morning, and pro- 
ceeded forward with considerable expedition. 1 passed 
several thriving orchards of peach trees, which here come 
to maturity in about three years ; there is an insect, how- 
ever, which destroys the trees in a few years after they 
begin to bear. 

About two o'clock I arrived at Taarsville. The town 
is pleasantly situated, and contains about forty houses ; it 
has a post-office, and is a place ^f considerable businessc 
Here is a tavern which furnishes good accommodations, 
and two stores for European goods. 

The land about Taarsville is good, and that of the first 
quality is selling at from forty to forty-five dollars per 
acre ; the common land is worth from fifteen to twenty- 
five dollars, and is equal to land in many parts ol' the old 



316 KER'S TRAVELS. 

settlements which is selling at sixty and seventy dollar^ 
per acre. 

From Taarsville I started for Georgetown, which is 
eighty- nine miles distant. The road was good, being of 
a light soil, which appears to lay upon a strata of lime- 
stone five or six feet below the surface. The water is all 
impregnated with lime, but is soft, and when used for a 
short time perfectly agreeable. In the evening I put up 
at the house of a gentleman who entertained me with 
much hospitality. 

The country here is agreeably interspersed with farm- 
houses, at the distance of two or three miles apart, so that 
a traveller is but a short time out of sight of one house 
before he has a view of another. This day travelling was 
rendered unpleasant by the heat, the thermometer stand- 
ing at 84° in the shade. I put up at an early hour, having 
come thirty miles. 

The next morning was cloudy, and the air very close, 
I rode about ten miles, and stopped at the house of widow 
woman to breakfast. Her husband had been dead about 
eight months, and she informed me that she expected 
shordy to be married. I smiled when she mentioned it, 
and told her I thought she was rather in haste. '' I think 
not,-' said she, *' for I have been courted four months, 
and I am sure that is long enough for any woman to make 
up her mind." At this reply I could not help laughing, 
which not a little chagrined the good woman. I observed 
as an apology, that it was customary, in the eastern states, 
to wait at least one year before another courtship com- 
mences. *' Why so it is," said the woman, " but then 
a body is so lonesome to live all alone, and a man is such 
a handy creature to do a thousand little things which a 



KER'S TRAVELS. 317 

body cannot do for themselves, that I can't see how any 
body can be contented without one ; for my part, I have 
not had a sound night's sleep since my poor husband 
died, for I abominably hate to sleep alone." This pro- 
duced another hearty laugh, in which I was joined by 
my kind hostess ; she appeared to be about thirty years of 
age, and possessed a large portion of that loquacity which 
is a general characteristic of the female sex. 

About dark I put up at a neat comfortable house, 
where I was well entertained. After WTiting a short time 
I retired to bed, and slept soundly till the matin hymn of 
the feathered songsters roused me from my bed to pur- 
sue my journey. 

I rode ten miles in the morning, and took breakfast 
with an elderly gentleman to whom I had a letter from 
his son in Tennessee. The old gentleman's family con- 
sisted of his wife, and two daughters, who were about 
sixteen, and very pretty. Contentment and happiness 
seemed to preside in the family, and rendered it a picture 
of domestic felicity. 

It was near four o'clock when I reached Georgetown, 
the weather being so very warm as to render the travel- 
ling unpleasant during the middle of the day. I pro- 
ceeded to the inn, vyhich is well furnished and has good 
accommodations. 

Georgetown is small and not very regularly built ; it 
contains about seventy houses and five hundred inhab- 
itants. It is a place of some business, and promises in 
time to become a place of considerable trade. 

The land about Georgetown is said to be good, and a, 
large proportion of it of the second and third quality. 
The growth of timber is luxuriant, which is generally 



318 / KER'S TRAVELS. 

bla(5k walnut, hickory, buck-eye, &c. Good land can 
be purchased in the neighbourhood at twenty and thirty 
dollars per acre. My next route was for Lexington, 
"ivhich was formerly considered as the capital of the 
state of Kentucky. 



CHAJP. XXXII. 

Departure from Georgetown — Lexington — Description 
of it — Mammoth hones — Causes why superficial ob- 
servers have supposed the mammoth and elephant to be 
of the same species — Tradition of the Shawanese In- 
dians — Frankfort — Description of it. 

In the morning I settled my bill, and proceeded in 
company with a gentleman who was going to Lexingtoa 
for his right to some land which he had purchased a short 
time since. We travelled eight miles, and stopped to 
breakfast, at a neat house, where we had a good break- 
fast of veal cutlets. I was informed that they generally 
killed their veal when about four weeks old, and the 
average weight was from one hundred to one hundred 
and twenty pounds each. 

The country through which we now travelled is very 
rapidly improving. The gentleman informed me that he 
travelled through this country about fifteen years ago, at 
which time there was but one house from Georgetown to 
Lexington, but we now counted more than twenty. In 
the evening we put up, having travelled thirty-six miles. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 319 

The next- morning we rode forward ten miles to 
breakfast. T he road is for the most part good ; the soil 
of a reddish clay, intermixed with small stones. 

About dark we arrived at Lexington, and I put up at 
the principal inn, kept by Mr. Passelweight, who was 
very civil and obliging, and the accommodations good. 

Lexington is the largest town in Kentucky ; it is sit- 
uated on a rich and extensive plain, in Fayette county, 
in lat. 38° 6' north, and 84*^ 26' west Ion. It is regularly 
laid out, and well built, contaiiiing about eight hundred 
houses, and four thousand two hundred inhabitants. It 
has a court-house and gaol, besides three places of public 
worship. There are two weekly papers printed in this 
town. Lexington is twenty -foiir miles north of Frank- 
fort, and is in every respect a flourishing and well situ- 
ated town. 

The land in the vicinity of Lexington is rich, and the 
improvements which are making have caused it of late to 
bear a high price. Some lots of second quality land have 
been sold at fifty dollars the acre, and from the progress 
of improvements it is reasonable to suppose it will be 
much higher, as it has risen in two years fifty per cent. 
The inhabitants export large quantities of live stock, 
which find a ready market at New- Orleans. 

At Lexington there is a mill carried by steam, which 
supplies the whole town with flour ; it is an ingenious 
and well- constructed piece of mechanism, and is of much 
importance to the place. 

In caves near Lexington are found skeletons of the 
human body, which are arranged in the following order ; 
First on the ground aie laid large broad stones ; on these 
3re placed tlie bodies, separated from each otlier by broarl 



:^20 KER'S TRAVELS. 

stones, and covered with other stones, which serve as a 
basis for the next arrangement of bodies. In this order 
they were built without mortar^ to the height of a man, 
tvery laying of the pile being narrower than the one un- 
der it. This method of burying is certainly totally differ- 
ent from that now practised by the Indians. 

At several places near Lexington, and in the neigh- 
bourhood of salt springs in this state, are found bones 
whose enormous size has attracted the attention of natur- 
ahsts, and which have been ascertained beyond a doubt 
to belong to a kind of animals long since extinct. Speci- 
mens of these bones have been sent both to France and 
England, where they haVe been examined with the great- 
est care, and found upon comparison to be the remains 
of the same species of animals that produced those other 
fossil bones which have been discovered in Tartary, Chi- 
li, and several other places, both of the old and new con- 
tinent. What animal this is, and why its ruins are found 
in regions so widely separated, in neither of which it now 
exists, is a question of most difficult solution. The ig- 
norant and superstitious Tartars attribute these bones to 
a creature whom they call maimon, which, they say, usu- 
ally resides at the bottom of the rivers, and of whom they 
relate many marvellous stories ; but as this is an assertion 
totally divested of proof, and even of probability, it has 
justly been rejected ty the learned ; and, on the other 
hand, it is certain that no such amphibious quadrupeds 
exist in the American waters. The bones bear a great 
resemblance to those of the elephant. There is no other 
ten-estrial animal now known large enough to produce 
them. The tusks, with which they are both furnished, 
equally produce true ivory. These external resemblances 



KER'S TRAVELS. 321 

iiave generally led superficial observers to conclude that 
they could belong to no other than that quadruped ; and 
when they first drew the attention of the world, philoso- 
phers seem to have subscribed to the same opinion. But 
if this opinion be correct, whence is it that the whole spe- 
cies has disappeared in America ? An animal so labori- 
ous and so docile as the elephant, the industry of the Pe- 
ruvians (which reduced to servitude and subjected to 
education species so much inferior in these qualities as 
the lama and the paca) could never have overlooked, if 
it had been to be found in their country. Whence is it 
that these bones are found in climates where the elephant,, 
which i^a native of the torrid zone, cannqt even subsist 
in his wild state, and in a state of servitude will not propa- 
gate ? These are difficulties sufficient to stagger credulity 
itself, and at last produced the inquiries of the celebrated 
anatomist. Dr. Hunter, whose indefatigable diligence soon 
discovered the mistake which had misled the naturalists 
of Europe, 

He procured specimens of these bones from different 
parts of the western country, and examined' them with 
that accuracy for which he is distingushed. He has dis- 
covered a considerable diffi^rence between the shape and 
structure of these bones and those of the elephant. He 
observed from the form of the teeth that they must have 
belonged to a carnivorous animal ; whereas the habits of 
the elephant are foreign to such sustenance, and his jaws 
totally unprovided with the teeth necessary for its use ; 
and from the whole he concluded, to the satisfaction of 
naturalists, that these bones belonged to a quadruped now 
unknown, but to which the name of mammoth has been 
given, with what propriety I will not pretend to say. The 

41 



322 KER'S TRAVELS. 

race is probably extinct, unless it may be found in the 
extensive continent of New-Holland, whose recesses 
have not yet been pervaded by the curiosity or avidity of 
civilized man. 

• Mr. Jefferson says " that the grinders of the mam- 
moth are five or six times as large as those of the ele- 
phant." Col. Morgan denies this, and observes, " i 
have seen the grinders of an elephant as large and as hea- 
vy as the largest of the mammoth ; they are indeed thin- 
ner, deeper rooted, and differently shaped, denoting a 
granivorous animal, whereas the grinders of the mam- 
moth resemble those of a wolf or dog, and show them to 
have been carnivorous." 

The following tradition, which is existing among the 
Shawanese Indians, is given in their own words, to show 
that the impression made on their minds by it must have 
been forcible. 

" Ten thousand moons ago, when nought but gloomy 
forests covered this land of the sleeping sun ; long before 
the pale men, with thunder and fire at their command, 
rushed on the wings of the wind to ruin this garden of 
nature ; when nought but the untamed wanderers of the 
woods, and men as unrestrained as they, were the lords 
of the soil, a race of animals were in being huge as the 
frowning precipice, cruel as the bloody panther, swift as 
the descending eagle, and terrible as the angel of night. 
The pines crashed beneath their feet, and the lakes shrunk 
when they slaked their thirst. I'he forceful javelin in 
vain was hurled, and the barbed arrow fell harmless from 
their side. Forests were laid waste at a meal ; the groans 
of^expiring animals were every where heard, and whole 
villages inhibited by men were destroyed in a moment. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 32S 

The cry of universal distress extended even to the region 
of peace in the west, and the Good Spirit interposed to 
save the unhappy. The forked lightning gleamed all 
around, and loudest thunder rocked the globe. The 
bolts of heaven were hurled upon the cruel destroyers 
alone, and the mountains echoed with the bellowings of 
deatli. All were killed except one male, the fiercest of 
the race, and him even the red artillery of heaven assailed 
i n vain. He ascended the bluest summit which shades the 
source of the Monongahela, and roaring aloud, bid defi-^ 
ance to ever>^ vengeance. The red lightning scorched 
the lofty firs, and rived the mighty oaks, but only glanced 
upon the enraged rjionster. At length, maddening with 
rage, he leaped over the waves of the west, and at this 
moment reigns the .uncontrolled monarch of the wilder- 
ness, in despite even of omnipotence itself." 

I staid in Lexington a few days, and proceeded on to 
Frankfort, the capital of Kentucky. This town is in 
Franklin county, and pleasantly situated on the northeast 
side of Kentucky river, fifty miles from its confluence 
with the Ohio. This river rises with three heads from a 
mountainous p^t of the country ; it is amazingly crook 
ed, upwards of two hundred miles in length, and about 
one hundred and fifty yards broad opposite the town. 

The state house is a handsome stone building, and has 
apartments in which most of the public offices are kept. 
Here is a tobacco warehouse ; the town is improving 
very fast, and its situation is agreeable and healthy ; it is 
in latitude 38° 14' north. 

The township contains one hundred and sixteen thou 
sand six hundred and fifty-six acres, and the banl^s of the 
river are better setded than any other parts of the state 



324 KER'S TRAVELS. 

The river is navigable for large craft many miles above 
the town, and the deep creeks into the interior parts fov 
boats of considerable size. 

As I intend to leave the state of Kentucky, and the 
*vestern country, I shall here introduce a few observations 
which may be of service to those who may w4sh to re- 
move to this country from England, or any other parts of 
Europe. 

The numbers which have emigrated to this country 
from Europe, have awakened the jealousy and the fears of 
the British government, and they have, by magnifying tri- 
fling circumstances, attempted to put a stop to a practice, 
which, though its effects are sl6w, are not the less sure in 
weakening the strength and resources of the European 
countries. Slight skirmishes with the Indians have been 
termed bloody battles ; the fevers which have raged in 
Philadelphia and New- York have been held forth as a 
proof of an unhealthy climate throughout the United 
States. These, however, need no refutation. The rapid 
increase of population in the United States fully proves 
that these assertions are totally unfounded. I shall at- 
tempt to point out some of the advantages vvhich an emi- 
grant will have in going to the western country, and draw 
some comparison between this country and many*parts 
of Europe very much to the advaptage of the former. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 325 



CHAP. XXXIII. 



fjeneral information to settlers, either from Europe or 
the United States, pointing out tfw advantages arising 
from settling iti the western country. 

The United States of America are under a free repre- 
sentative government, and every citizen has a voice in 
electing such men as will make laws for the good of the 
community, and preserve inviolate their constitution. 

There are in the country but very few persons, exclu- 
sive of some who reside in New- York, Philadelphia, and a 
few otlier cities, who would in Europe be considered 
rich ; but it is highly gratifying to the feelings of an 
American to know, that there are very few w^ho can with 
propriety be considered poor. There is rather a happy 
mediocrity that prevails throughout the country. You 
no where see in the United States, that disgusting and 
melancholy contrast so common in Europe, of vice and 
wretchedness, and filth and rags, in the immediate neigh- 
bourhood of the most wanton extravagance and the most 
useless and luxurious parade. 

Nor are the ppor so depressed as they are in Great- 
Britain. They have no military to keep them in awe, 
nor hired spies and informers to pierce the inmost recess- 
es of society, and call forth one part of a family against 
another, thus destroying domestic happiness ; but all is 
peace, order, and harmony. 

In England a young man is restrained from marrying 
?>oni the fear of an expensive family establishment. Ti 



326 KER'S TRAVELS. 

is considered as a mark of prudence to remain single ; 
it is openly commended, and as rigidly practiced as the 
voice of nature will allow. The married man, whose 
passions have been stronger, whose morals have been 
less callous, or whose interest has furnished motives to 
matrimony, doubts whether each child he has be not a 
misfortune, and looks upon his offspring with a melan- 
choly kind of affection that imbitters some of the most 
pleasurable moments of his life. 

In America, particularly in the western country, no 
man feels anxious about the support of a family. There, 
every one feels *the increase of his family to be the in- 
crease of his happiness, and no farmer doubts about the 
facility of providing for his children as comfortably as 
he has lived, where land is so cheap and so fertile, where 
societ}^ is so much upon an equality, and where the pro- 
digious increase of population, from natural and accident- 
al causes, and the improving state of the country, furnish- 
es a market for whatever superfluous produce he chooses 
to raise, without incessantly presenting that temptation to 
artificial expense and extravagant competition, so com- 
mon and so numerous in European countries. 

This part of the country has not, indeed, many charms 
for the dissipated and voluptuous part of mankind ; but 
it has very many for the rational, sober-minded, and dis- 
creet. It is a part of the United States which affords 
great opportunities of comfort and prosperity to people of 
good property, to those in moderate circumstances, and 
to the industrious and honest poor. Sobriety, industry, 
and frugality, will soon enable the latter class to become, 
){ not rich, at least in moderate circumstances. 

Kentucky, in regard to soil and climate, has certainlv 



KER'S TRAVELS. 327 

the preference to any state in the union. Nature has 
given to the regions of this fair country a fertihty so as- 
tonishing, that to believe it, occular demonstration be- 
comes necessary. To this advantage, I may add that of 
the number of European settlers who have emigrated, 
and continue to emigrate thither, and the consequent 
rapid state of improvement that has followed. Lands in 
and near the towns in this state, must continue to increase 
in their value, and many purchases may now be made in 
different parts of the country with very great advantage 
to settlers. Some difficulties will undoubtedly be expe- 
rienced, and such as must naturally be expected in an 
unsettled country. 

Farmers, for the most part, do their own work in this 
«tate, cultivating their farms and living upon the produce, 
A few slaves may be had, but, for the honour of hu- 
manity, it is to be hoped that this abominable method of 
cultivating our fields will be avoided. The whole com- 
merce between master and slave is a perpetual exercise of 
the most boisterous passions ; the most unremitting des-- 
potism on the one part, and degrading submission on 
the other. The children see this, and learn to imitate it, 
for man is an imitative animal. This quality is the gerni 
of all education in him ; from his cradle to his grave he 
is learning to do what he sees others do. If a parent 
could find no motive, either in his philanthrophy or his 
self-love, for restraining the intemperance of passion to- 
wards his slave, it should always be a sufficient one that 
his child is present ; but generally it is not*" sufficient* 
While the parent storms, the child looks on, catches the 
lineaments of wrath, and puts on the same air in the cir« 
cle of his smaller slaves, gives a loose to his wor^t 



328 KER'S TRAVELS, 

passions ; and thus educated, and daily practised in ty-^ 
ranny, he cannot but be stamped with its odious peculiari- 
ties. The man must be a prodigy who can retain his 
manners and morals undepraved under such circum- 
stances. Exclusive of this, it begets a habit of indolence. 
This is so true, that of the proprietors of slaves, a very 
small proportion indeed are ever seen to labour. And 
can the liberties of a nation be thought secure when they 
have removed their only firm basis, a conviction in the 
minds of the people that these liberties are the gift of God 5 
that they are not to be violated but with his wrath. 

Religion, in this state, is established on a basis as free 
as the air we breathe. It allows all its citizens to worship 
God according to the dictates of their own consciences, 
so long as they conduct themselves with order and 
decency. 



CHAP. XXXIV. 

Leave Frankfort for White Court-hou^ — Huntsville--^ 
Choctaw nation — St, Stephens — Mobile — Pensacola — - 
Observations on the soil of West-Florida and the cuU 
ture of cotton. 

On the 20th of October I left Frankfort, intending to 
take a route by the way of White Gourt-house, Hunts- 
ville, the Chickasaw and Choctaw nations, to St. Ste- 
phens. The journey was long, and in many respects 
tedious, and my sole reason for undertaking it was for 



KER'S TRAVELS. 329 

the purpose of procuring furs, of which I understood the 
Choctaws collected great numbers. 

The morning was ver}- fine, and I proceeded on with- 
out meeting with any thing remarkable during this day's 
journey, not having yet left the neighbourhood of Frank- 
fort, of which I have akeady gi\ en some description. 

The distance from Frankfort to VV hite Court-house is 
one hundred and sixty miles ; the road for the most part 
is good, and for the first sixty miles agreeably interspers- 
ed with farm houses ; for about fifty miles more the 
houses are thinly scattered, and improvements have not 
as yet begun to take place, ahhough the land is rich, and 
sold ver}' cheap. I met with no occurrence worth re- 
lating, and arrived at White Court-house about twelve 
o'clock on the sixth day after my departure from Franks 
fort. 

White Court-house has nothing to recommend it to the 
attention of travellers. It is a small place, and but thinly 
inhabited, and is situated in Warren county. Almost all 
the business of the county is transacted in this place. The 
land is good, and there is no doubt but that in a few years 
it will become a thriving settlement. 

I proceeded forward in the morning for Fayetteville, 
and after riding about ten miles, stopped and took break- 
fast with a farmer. After breakfast I pursued tny jour- 
ney. The weather was \er\^ warm, and the travelling 
unpleasant in the middle of the day. I stopped to dine 
with a gentlemen of the name of Berr}-, who entertained 
me with much hospitality. In the evening I lodged with 
a former who appeared to have a large quantity of excel- 
lent land, and ^vho had a small family of nine boys and 
two girls. 

42 



330 KER'S TRAVELS. 

The next morning I rode ten miles to a neat farm 
house, where I obtained a comfortable breakfast. The 
day was cloudy, which rendered the travelling more 
pleasant. About dark I arrived at Huntsville, and put 
up for the night. 

Huntsville is a small but thriving litde place, and has 
a court-house which is handsomely built. They have 
no meeting-house as yet, but are about collecting funds 
for the purpose of erecting one. At present they have 
preaching in a large log house, which is appropriated to 
that use. The town is situated at a short distance from 
Elk river, which is navigable within a few miles for boats, 
and is of considerable service to the town. 

' In the morning I went forward on my route, and found 
the weather cool and agreeable. About eight miles 
from Huntsville I stopped to breakfast, and then proceed- 
ed eighteen miles to the house of a farmer, where I put 
up for the night. 

At six o'clock the next morning I went forward, and 
at about eight I crossed the river not far from Fort De- 
posit, and proceeded for the Chickasaw nation. My road 
now lay, for the most part, through an uncultivated wil- 
derness, which, although rich in all the productions of 
nature, has nevertheless nothing which can render a de- 
scription of it either necessary or entertaining. 

On the fourth day after my crossing the river, I arrived 
within the territories of the Choctaws, or Flat HeadS;, 
n'hich are a powerful, hardy, and subtle nation. 
- They inhabit* a fine and extensive tract of hilly country, 
with large and fertile plains, intervening between the Ala- 
bama and Missisippi rivers. This nation had, not many 
years ago, a number of towns and villages, and mnV^ 



KER'S TRAVELS. 331 

viiiister about three thousand fighting men ; but by con- 
tinual wars, in which it has been their destiny to be en- 
gaged, both with other Indian tribes and with the whites, 
they have been much reduced, and are becoming weak 
and pusillanimous. 

Their complexion is brighter than that of the neigh- 
bouring Indians. They are robust and well made, and 
taller than any of tlieir neighbours, being generally six 
feet high. Their women are well made, tall, slender, 
and delicate. 

The Choctaws, different from most of the Indian 
tribes bordering upon the United States, have lately be- 
gan to employ much of their time in agricultural pursuits, 
after the manner of the whites. 

The distance from the Choctaws to the Chickasawka 
has been estimated at two hundred miles, which in my 
opinion is incorrect, and probably one hundred and sixty 
would be nearer the true distance. The road is, for the 
most part, through a wilderness, and in some places it is 
dangerous travelling on account of the straggling Indians 
which are scattered through the woods. 1 carried my 
provision with me, and generally took breakfast before 
starting in the morning, when I would cook enough to 
last me till evening. In seven days after my leaving the 
Choctaws, I arrived in Chickasawka. 

Chickasawka is situated on the head waters of the 
Tombigbee river, which is the dividing line between the 
Creeks and the Choctaws. This river derives its name 
from a fort which is situated on the west side of it, about 
ninety-six miles above the town of Mobile. 

Government has had it in contemplation to cut a road 
from die Muscle Shoals to the Tombigbee, the distance 



332 KER'S TRAVELS. 

of about seventy miles. Surveyors were appointed for 
the purpose, but from some causes not generally known, 
it has never been done. 

The land in and about the Chickasawka is rich and 
fertile, but the inhabitants do not attend much to agricul- 
ture. Trading with the Indians for furs, of which they 
send large quantities to Mobile, forms the principal part 
of their commerce, and receives their most particular at- 
tention. 

I remained in this place better than three weeks, during 
which time I purchased large quantities of furs, with the 
intention of taking them to St. Stephens, where I expect- 
ed to dispose of them at an advanced price. 

I purchased two horses, which I used as pack-horses, 
and started for St. Stephens, which is fifty-five miles 
distant from Chickasawka. I proceeded slowly along 
"without meeting with any remarkable occurrence, and on 
the evening of the 2d of December, arrived at St. Ste- 
phens. 

The town of St. Stephens is small, and not very regu- 
larly built ; it is situated on the Tombigbee river, and 
contains about ninety houses and three hundred inhab- 
itants. It is a place of considerable trade, and annually 
furnishes a large number of skins for the European mar- 
kets. The Choctaw Indians alone, in two years, brought 
to this market two hundred and twenty-five thousand 
skins, which were exchanged for European and West- 
India goods. These skins are shipped by the merchants 
to those places which furnish the best market. This is a 
thriving place, and promises in a few years to become 
of considerable importance to the United States. 

My. skins did not find so ready a market here as I 



KER'S TRAVELS. 333 

expected, owing to there being a large quantity on hand, 
and but few shipments, which determined me to go down 
the river to Mobile, where there was a probability of 
my meeting with a more advantageous market. Having 
but few arrangements to make, in four days after my 
arrival I was ready to proceed. 

I went on board of a boat which was going down the 
river, and which was the most expeditious mode of tra- 
velling. I found on board a number of gentlemen who 
were going on to New- Orleans and Pensacola. We had 
an agreeable passage, and nothing was wanting to render 
it pleasing and delightful. On the third day, about one 
o'clock, we arrived at Mobile. 

I here found a ready market for my furs, at an advance 
of seventy-five per cent, which, after deducting twenty- 
five for my expenses from the Choctaws, will leave me 
fifty per cent on them clear of every charge. 

The fur trade from this place has greatly declined 
within a few years. They formerly shipped peltry and 
furs to the amount of twenty thousand pounds sterling, 
but now it does not amount to more than one half of tliat 
sum. 

The city of Mobile is in latitude 30° 12' north ; it is 
pretty regular, of an oblong figure, and situated on the 
west bank of the river of tlie same name. To the north- 
westward it is in the neighbourhood of marshes, which 
render the town unhealthy. The inhabitants are afflicted 
with the intermittent fever, fever and ague, and other 
complaints common to such places. 

There are in this town many very elega;it houses, w hich 
are inhabited by Spanish, French, English, and Ameri 
an gentlemeUo Towards the loM'cr end of the to\\i» 



334 KER'S TRAVELS. 

stands Fort Conde, a regular built fortress, in' which 
there is a very neat and commodious square of barracks, 
for the accommodation of officers and soldiers. The town 
at present contains about three hundred houses, many of 
which are built after the Spanish fashion. The guns in 
the fort at Mobile Point, 30 miles from the town, were all 
ppiked just before the victory of general Jackson. 

One of the principal causes which has probably ope- 
rated to effect the decline of Mobile, is the obstructions 
to large vessels coming up to the town, a bar rendering 
it impossible for them to come nearer than within seven 
miles. If this obstruction could be removed, I think 
that the commercial importance of this place would again 
revive, and we should once more see its streets thronged 
with merchants. Its situation is well calculated for com- 
merce, excepting the objection already mentioned, and it 
is my opinion that with thirty or forty thousand dollars 
this might be removed, and the inhabitants have secured 
to them all the advantages which they formerly en- 
joyed. 

As I was within eighty miles of Pensacola, the capital 
of West- Florida, I thought it would be advisable for me 
to visit the place. I accordingly made preparations for 
that purpose, and my business being soon arranged, I 
left Mobile on the 4th of January, 1815. Owing to 
boisterous weather, I did not arrive in Pensacola before 
late the next day. 

The town of Pensacola is situated on a bay of the gulf 
of Mexico, which forms a very commodious harbour, 
where there is plenty of water, and where vessels may 
lide secure from every wind. The town is of an 
oblong form, about a mile in length, and a half a mil*^ 



KER'S TRAVELS. 335 

ill breadth. It contains about two thousand houses, and 
seven thousand inhabitants. The houses are many of 
them elegant and spacious. The chimnies are all built' 
of soft lime-stone, cut in squares, which lasts for cen- 
turies. The public buildings are mostly built of stone, 
and are very large and spacious. The town lias much 
increased of late, and promises soon to become the prin- 
cipal mart of all the produce which is disposed of in 
West- Florida. The mercantile business is well attended 
to, and many merchants have made their fortunes in 
Pensacola in a few years. 

The exports of Pensacola consist of skins, logwood, 
<lying stuiFs, and silver dollars, together with sugar, 
cotton, and indigo, which in 1812 amounted to 240,500 
dollars. 

The soil of West-Florida is various, according to the 
different improvements which have been made upon it 
It is a mixture of sand and black mould, making what is 
generally termed a grey soil. A considerable part of it, 
when under cultivation, yields ""^Dod crops of indigo, 
cotton, corn, or potatoes. The planting of cotton has of 
late years been much attended to, several planters having 
turned their indigo plantations into cotton fields. There 
are two kinds of cotton which flourish very w^ell here, the 
annual and tlie West- Indian. The former is low and 
planted every year ; the phlox long, strong, and perfecdy 
white. The latter is a tall, perennial plant, the stalk 
somewhat shrubby, several of which rise up from tho 
root for a number of successive years, the stems of the 
former year bei^ig killed by the frosts. The balls of the 
West- India cotton are not quite so large as the other, but 
the phlox, or wool, is long, extremely fine, silky, anrJ 
-^vhite, 



KER'S TRAVELS. 



CHAP. XXXV, 



Author goes from Pensacola to the Alabama — Fort 
Claiborne — Fort Montgomery — Fort Mins — St, Ste- 
phens — Author starts for the northern part of the 
United States — Fliiit river — Description of it. 

From Pensacola, I proceeded by land through a pine, 
barren country, to the Alabama. The distance is about 
seventy-five miles, and there are no plantations on the 
roadj although the culture of cotton might be advan- 
tageously carried on. In many parts the pine grows to 
a considerable height. It is not our common pine, but 
like that which is called the long-leafed pine. The shape 
of the leaf is nearly like that of other pines, but is a yard 
in length, hanging in large clusters. 

On the 10th of January I arrived on the banks of the 
Alabama river at Fort Claiborne. The Alabama is 
formed by the junction of the Coosa and Tallapoosa 
rivers, at Little Talassee, and runs in a southwesterly di- 
rection until it meets the Tombigbee. This beautiful 
river has a gentle current and pure water, and abounds 
in excellent fish. It is eighty yards wide opposite the 
fort, which is situated on a high bluff, called the Choctaw 
bluff, which is about two hundred and fifty feet high, 
while the bank on the opposite side of the river is not 
elevated more than two feet above the surface of the wa- 
ter. ,T'his river frequently overflows, and the country for 
some distance is occasionally covered widi water, which 
continues for a considerable length of time* Travellers 



KER'S TRAVELS. 337 

have, in the month of May, in nine days descended this 
river from Little Talassee to Mobile bay, the distance of 
about three hundred and fifty miles. 

The land on this river furnishes a variety of soil, being 
in some places very rich, and in others just above medi- 
ocrity. The regular overflowing of the river might be 
made of much benefit in the> cultivation of rice, for which 
this country is well calculated. Many valuable planta- 
tions might here be taken up, which, with suitable care 
and attention, would soon render the owners independent. 

From Fort Claiborne I went to Fort Montgomery, 
which is distant about forty-five miles. This fort was 
built after the massacre at Fort Mins, which was perpe- 
trated by the Musaogulge confederacy, where it is said 
two hundred and fifty men, women, and children, lost 
their liveSo The ruins of Fort Mins are about two miles 
distant, it having been burnt to the ground. The site 
of Fort Montgomery is superior in point of situation, it 
having a more commanding view, and not being liable 
to be surrounded. The bones of the unfortunate suffer- 
ers at Fort Mins are still in a great measure unburied, and 
exposed to public view ; those which have been buried 
appear to have been dug up again by wild beasts, or 
some others. 

At sunrise I went, forward, crossed the Alabama, and 
proceeded by the way of the Cut-off* to St. Stephens, 
which is forty-five miles distant from Fort Montgomery. 
The travelling was very good, and the weather agreeable 
for the time of the year, it being what may be termed 
the rainy season, as scarcely a day passed without there 
being some rain, and very few without its being more or 
less cloudy. 



338 KEH'S TRAVELS. 

On my arrival at St. Stephens I made preparations fgr 
returning to the northern parts of the United States, and 
for that purpose I sold my horse, which had become 
poor and not very fit for the journey, and purchased an- 
other, which was an excellent sound bodied horse, for 
which I had to pay one hundred and sLi^ty dollars. Good 
horses are scarce in St. Stephens, and generally high ; 
the reason is that very few horses will live there, owing 
to a disease which is called \ht fatehu^ of which great 
numbers die every year. 

On the morning of the 8th of February, 1815, 1 cross- 
ed tlie Tombigbee, and rode through a level, and for the 
most part a fertile country. The soil was of a rich black 
loam, and would yield an abundant crop of tobacco or 
indigo, if put in proper cultivation. 

Twenty-five miles from St. Stephens I crossed the 
Alabama, which is here about eighty yards broad, and 
encamped for the night in a fertile and well watered 
plain. The evening was remarkably fine, and although 
at a season of the year when Flora presents but few of her 
gifts to our view, yet the landscape was agreeably inter- 
spersed with evergreens, which rendered the scenery fine 
beyond description. 

The next morning I proceeded on my journey, and 
about nine o'clock entered the wilderness, and proceeded 
tlirough thick woods of hickory, walnut, buck-eye, and 
some pines. The road was in many places much choked 
with underwood, which rendered the travelling very diffi- 
cult. At night I encamped, having come about thirty- 
five miles. 

I was well armed and equipped, having a pair of 
good pistols, and a rifle which was as good as could be 



KER'S TRAVELS. 339 

purchased in St. Stephens. I had fire- works with me, 
and my usual method of proceeding was to ride a few 
miles in the morning, and then to cook my breakfast, at 
the same time laying in a sufficiency for dinner ; this 
\vould last me till I encamped for the night, when I again 
made a meal. I had with me tea and coffee, and a small 
kettle, and whenever my journey had been unusually fa- 
tiguing, I generally made either tea or coffee, and this, 
with a little brandy, never failed to restore me by the 
next morning. 

In the morning I proceeded on my route, and about 
eight o'clock crossed Limestone creek. The country 
through which I rode was uniformly dull, being an entire 
forest, without any thing to divert the attention. At 
dark I encamped by the side of a small rivulet, which 
afforded good water. 

The evening was wild and gloomy, the clouds were 
thick, black, and heavy, and the thunder was heard in 
distant murmurs and echoed among the hills. The 
weather was very cold, and my blanket was scarcely suf- 
ficient to protect me from the inclemency of the weather. 
The wolves had now become very troublesome, and I was 
obliged to keep a large fire to protect me fi'om their 
fury. 

At daylight I proceeded on, the weatiier being cloudy 
and cold. I passed a place where a fire had lately been 
extinguished, which I judged to have been kindled b}' 
some Indian hunters. I looked for them all day, but 
without meeting any. I encamped at dark in a place 
which had much the appearance of a fort. The night 
^vas very stormy and disagreeable, and the ran fell in con 



340 KER'S TRAVELS. 

siderable quantities and rendered my lodging truly un<^ 
comfortabe. 

The next day it continued to rain with as much fury 
as the preceding night, but nevertheless I proceeded for- 
ward, and about four o'clock entered a still thicker part 
of the forest, which was almost entirely composed of 
pines nearly ninety feet in height. The gloom of the sur- 
rounding forest, the stormy aspect of the weather, and 
the distant howling of wild beasts, contributed not a lit- 
tle to render my reflections melancholy and unpleasant. 
At an early hour I encamped in a thick cluster of trees, 
but had to keep a fire continually burning at a short 
distance, on the outside of the cluster. 

Early the next morning I started forward, the weather 
having become more pleasant, although not entirely 
clear. About noon I crossed the Chatabachi river, which 
was here about twenty yards broad ; the country now 
became more clear, and the travelling more pleasant. In 
the afternoon I passed an Indian camp of about a dozen 
wigwams, and understood the party liad been catching 
fish, of which they had a considerable quantity. I en- 
camped in the evening, after having come thirty-five 
miles. 

The next morning I proceeded forward through a fine 
country, which had the most agreeable and pleasant ap- 
pearance. Ai)out noon I crossed Flint river, which is 
here about thirty yards wide. It is a considerable river, 
and takes its rise in Georgia, in the country of the Creek 
Indians, and, running a south, and then a southwesterly 
course, joins the Apalachicola at its entrance into Flori- 
da. It has a gentle current, and is about fifteen f«?et 
deep. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 341 

The country lying on this river has every ' appearance 
of being as delightful and fruitful a region as any in 
the United States. It is well calculated for every branch 
of agriculture, and offers an uninterrupted navigation to 
the bay of Mexico and the Atlantic ocean, and thence to 
jthe West-India islands and all parts of the world. 



CHAP. XXX VL 

Author proceeds on his journey — Fort Hawkins — Re- 
mains of the ingenuity of the Indians — Milledgeville — 
Augusta — Manner in whicH a Georgia planter spends 
his time. 

At night I put up at colonel Hawkins's, where I was 
well received. This gentleman had a fine plantation, and 
his family consisted of himself, his wife, and two chil- 
dren. 

In the morning I went forward, and at eight o'clock 
passed Fort Hawkins, which was garrisoned by about 
three hundred soldiers, and under the command of the 
gentleman who so kindly entertained me the preceding 
night. The country is here more open, and the soil 
good and fertile. 

At noon I crossed the Oakmulgee, which is a branch 
of the beautiful Alatamaha river ; at the place where I 
crossed it, it was about three hundred and fifty yards 



342 KER'S TRAVELS. 

wide. The country on the east side of the river is very- 
rich and fertile, and is called the Oakmulgee fields just 
above the confluence of the Oconee with this river. 

On this river there are many remains of the ingenuity 
and grandeur of the aboriginal inhabitants, which equal 
any thing tliat has yet been seen of their work. The 
ruins of a capital town are still to be seen, which was 
laid out on a regular and elegant plan ; it was of an exact 
square, the streets running so as to intersect each other 
at right angles, and forming three large squares. The 
buildings were of a better construction than those now 
erected by the Indians, and appear to have been very 
convenient. Around three of the public squares are tlie 
remains of terraces, which appear to have been lightly, 
and even elegantly constructed. In the neighbourhood 
of the town are several artificial hills, which have been 
raised, some to the height of sixty feet, and appear to have 
been thrown up with considerable labour. 

In the evening I stopped at the house of a gentleman 
who entertained me with much hospitality. The coun- 
try through which I rode this day was more open and 
fertile than any I had before seen, and although not very 
thickly settled, furnishes a number of good sites for 
plantations. 

At five o'clock the next morning I posted on forMik 
ledgeville, which was forty-five miles distant. Planta- 
tions were scattered more thickly along the road, and ma- 
ny of the houses were very neat and convenient. The 
day was very warm and pleasant for the season, and the 
travelling very good. At sunset I crossed Fishing creek, 
and about seven o'clock arrived in Milledgeville. 

Milledgeville is the seat of government for the state of 



KER'S TRAVELS. 343 

Georgia, and is a well built and flourishing town, contain- 
ing about five hundred houses and two thousand inhab- 
itants ; many of the houses are well built, large, and 
spacious. There is an elegant state-house erected, in 
which are most of the ofiices for transacting public busi- 
ness. A court-house has likewise been erected in the 
town, in which the district and county court business is 
transacted. 

The penal code for the punishment of criminals has for- 
merly been very severe in Georgia ; branding, whipping, and 
even death being the consequence of committing larcenies, 
and other crimes of that nature. But much to the honour 
of the state legislature, they have lately abrogated that 
law, and made provision for the erection of a state prison. 
The prison is now erecting in this town ; it is of brick, 
and has the appearance of being an elegant and commo- 
dious building. 

In the morning I had a specimen of that republican 
equality which may with propriety be considered as the 
national characteristic of the United States. A man 
whose property and possessions ^vere very extensive, had 
in a variety of ways injured a black man, who was free, 
and had never done him any injury. The man com- 
plained to the legal authority, who immediately sum- 
^noned the gentleman into their presence ; and proof 
being adduced sufficient to substantiate the charge, he 
was severely reprimanded, fined, and dismissed. I 
afterwards understood that he was notorious for his 
oppression of the blacks, and was justly held in contempt 
by all those who had any pretensions to humanity or 
benevolence. 

About 12 o'clock I left Milledgevillc, and rrossed the 



344 KER'S TRAVELS. 

Alconey ferry, which is here three hundred yards wide, 
I put up at the house of Mr Hopewell, who was very 
obliging. He informed me that land in and about that 
place had risen very much since the legislature estab° 
lished Milledgeville as the seat of government, and there 
was a probability of its increasing in value. 

In the morning my kind host would not allow me to 
depart till after breakfast, which detained me till after 
7 o'clock. About 12 o'clock I passed some iron works 
which were not very large, but flourishing. At 3 
o'clock I crossed the creek, called Rocky creek, which is 
here about three yards wide, and abounds with fish. At 
dark I put up at the house of Mr. O'Neal, a gentleman 
who had emigrated from Ireland. He owned an extensive 
plantation, and seemed to be very contented. 

The climate in this part of the state is pure and healthy, 
and the inhabitants have a more wholesome and agreeable 
countenance than those who reside in the lower parts of 
the state, or near the seaboard. The soil is a rich black 
loam, and raises good crops of wheat of tobacco, although 
the former article k not much attended to, cotton being 
considered of more importance, and the staple commodity 
of the state. 

After breakfast I continued my journey. The day 
was cloudy, and the weather unpleasant ; the ther- 
mometer stood at 41°. I passed many fine plantations, 
which were distant from one to two miles on the roado 
The culture of sugar cane has begun to engage the 
attention of some planters, and from experiments which 
have been made, it promises to do well. Could one half 
of the plantations which are now in cotton fields be turned 
to the cultivation of sugar, the United States would soon 



KER'S TRAVELS. 345 

become independent of those large supplies which we 
receive from the West- Indies, and the price of this ne- 
cessary article would be reduced more than fifty per cent. 
I put up at the house of a Mr. Reynolds, where I had 
good accommodations. 

In the morning I went forward with an intention of 
reaching Augusta in the course of the day, which I found 
distant thirty-six miles. The weather was very cold, 
and one of my horse's shoes becoming loose, I stopped 
at a blacksmith's to get it put on. He was the only one 
of that profession within many miles, and informed me 
he had an extensive run of business. He had within five 
years purchased an hundred acres of land, which he had 
been enabled to pay for solely from the profits arising 
from his work. At four o'clock I reached Augusta, and 
put up at the Globe tavern, where I found good accom- 
modations. 

Augusta was formerly the seat of government for the 
state of Georgia, and is a flourishing town. It is situated 
on the southwest bank of the Savannah river, which is 
here about five hundred yards wide, and has a popula- 
tion of three thousand souls. The town is on a large 
plain, which is fertile and good land, and at the foot of 
the first falls in the river, where, in a dry season, the wa- 
ter falls four or five feet. It is one hundred and thirt}' 
miles distant from Savannah, and one hundred and forty- 
five from the sea. 

The next morning I left Augusta, and crossed the 
bridge which had lately been erected. I proceeded to 
Mr. Bardet's to breakfast, who was a gentleman of much 
information and politeness ; he was one of those who 
in the revolutionary war were attached to general Sump 



346 KER'S TRAVELS. 

ter's brigade, and related many interesting anecdotes of 
that officer. 

The soil was here dry and sandy, and in my opinion 
not generally so good as that which I had passsed forty 
or fifty miles back, although there are many spots as 
fertile as any in the state. 

The day was very cold, and the thermometer stood at 
35° at sunset. I put up at Mr. Lee's, where I found a 
number of persons who were going to different parts of 
the state. We had good accommodations, and spent 
the evening very agreeably^ 

The Georgians are polite, hospitable, and in all their 
dealings fair and honourable ; they are, however, much 
given to dissipation, particularly the wealthy part of the 
population, who attend to no business, and live a life of 
indolence and voluptuousness. The following descrip- 
tion of the manner in wliich tliey spend their time, has 
already been published, but is thought worthy of inser-^ 
tion here. 

" About six in the morning he quits his bed, and or- 
ders his horse to be got ready ; he then swallows a dram 
of bitters, to prevent the ill effects of the early fog, and 
sets out for a tour upon his plantation. If he sees any 
of his slaves idle, he inquires the cause ; if sickness be 
alleged, he shuts them up in the sick -house, wher^ 
they are bled, blistered, or drenched, till they are dead, 
or so weak as to be scarcely able to stand. If no reason^ 
is assigned, he applies his rattan to the slave's naked back, 
and obliges him instantly to decamp. After examining 
into the welflire of the poultry, hogs, cattle, &c. about 
the hour of eight he returns to breakfast, and is receiver! 



KER'S TRAVELS. 347 

by a whole troop of young negroes in a primitive state x)f 
nakedness. 

" After eating his breakfast he again mounts a fresh 
•horse, rides to the first public house, plays at cards, 
makes bargains, appoints days for horse races or boxing 
matches, and about the hour of four returns to dinner, 
bringing with him a number of his friends. If the com- 
pany be agreeable he seldom rises from table before sun- 
set. If the weather is fair, after an early supper they set 
out (preceded by a negro who carries a few bottles of 
brandy and a large fire) for the purpose of shooting deer. 
The animals, being attracted by the blaze of light, ^tand 
still with their eyes fixed upon it until they are shot. 

" About midnight they return, according to luck, 
with or without game ; their shins and faces sadly 
scratched, and themselves fit for nothing but to be put 
to bed. This is tlie general routine of existence among 
such of the Georgians as live in the more retired and 
woody parts of the state. Trade is principally managed 
by the overseers and factors. 



CHAP. XXXVII. 

Ride to Columbia — Camden — Very bad weather — Pedee 
river — Fayetteville — Description of 1 1. 

In the morning I started, accompanied by a gentlemaii 
who was going to Columbia, in the state of South- 
Carolina. As this was my route, I had his company all 



348 KER'S TRAVELS. 

the way. We passed through a level country, which 
was well watered, and a number of plantations were scat- 
tered over it about half a mile from the road. In the 
evening ^ve put up at Mr. King's, where we were well 
entertained. 

We rose early in the morning and proceeded through 
a level plain, and about eight o'clock we crossed the 
Congaree river. This is a considerable river of South - 
Carolina, and is formed by the junction of Broad and 
Saluda rivers. It is about three hundred yards wide 
at Columbia, where we crossed it, which town is situated 
on the east side of the river. 

The town of Columbia is situated in Kershaw county, 
Camden district, and is the seat of government for South- 
Carolina. It contains about five hundred houses and 
three thousand inhabitants ; the streets are regular and 
well laid out, and many of the houses are elegant. The 
public offices are kept here, though in some manner di- 
vided for the accommodation of the inhabitants, and a 
branch is still retained in Charleston. Columbia has a 
court-house and jail, and is inhabited by wealthy and re- 
spectable people. 

Bacchus, the mirth -inspiring friend, is much respected 
in this place ; and no objection can be made to the sway 
of so cheering an auxiliary, when limited by prudence 
and moderation. But as this seldom happens, the ob- 
jections against these customs have become serious and 
weighty. It is a species of luxury the most dangerous, 
because leading directly to all others ; but it is a species 
for which the Carolinians are most excusable. With- 
out the assistance of vvine, in all warm climates, the mind 
becomes enervated, the spirit languid, and the imagina 



KER'S TRAVELS. 349 

tion barren. It is known to all physicians that wine, by 
its tonic quality, obviates debility produced by cUmate ; 
and that the effects of putrid miasmatia are destroyed by 
its antiseptic qualities. Hence it is, in all probability, 
that the inliabitants of this state are more generally. addict- 
ed to the indulgencies of the botde than those of the 
northern states. 

Dissolute pleasures, and luxury of every kind, form a 
distinguishing feature in the character of the Carolinians. 
I censure not the profusion of their tables, it is the profu- 
sion of heaven ; but to the pleasures of the table they are 
too much addicted, and they waste too much of that 
time in sensual indulgence, which they might improve to 
the advantage of society. 

The morning ^vas stormy with showers of rain, which 
detained me in town tiir after breakfast. About nine 
o'clock it cleared up, and I proceeded on my journey. I 
crossed the bridge at Spear's creek, and after travelling 
ten miles took dinner with a gentleman who had recently 
suffered considerably by fire, which had destroyed his 
out-houses. He entertained me with great hospitality, 
and appeared to be a man of much information. At night 
I an'ived in Camden, which is about thirty-five miles 
distant from Columbia, 

Camden is a thriving and healthy town in Kersha\\ 
county, and the chief town of Camden district. It is 
regularly laid out, and contains about eight hundred and 
twenty houses, some of which are built of brick and ve- 
ry handsome. It stands on the east side of the Wateree 
river, which enables the inhabitants to carry on- a brisk 
trade, and contributes not a little to its increase. Most 
T^f the produce of the bnck rountry here finds a readv 



350 KER'S TRAVELS. 

market. This towii was the scene of two memorable 
engagements during the revolutionary war : the first on 
the 16th of August, 1780, between general Gates and 
lord Cornwallis, in which the hero of Saratoga suffered a 
defeat. The following year another battle was fought 
between general Green and lord Kawdon, in which there 
was one hundred and twenty-six Americans killed, and 
one hundred taken prisoners, while the killed and wound- 
ed of the British amounted to one hundred. Lord Raw- 
don at this time sallied out of the town, in which he had 
entrenched himself, and attacked the American camp in 
three places ; he however failed of his principal object, 
and in a few days evacuated the town. 

There is in this town an Episcopal church, besides a 
court-house and jail, and the public offices for the county. 
The court for the district of Camden sit-s here twice in 
a year. 

The next morning it stormed, and a considerable falF 
of snow had taken place during the night. I rode about 
eight miles, when I stopped and took breakfast with an 
elderly gentleman, whose grandmother sat at the table. 
This woman told me she was ninety- six years of age, 
and her eye sight was so good that she could read with- 
out spectacles. I mention this to prove that South- 
Carolina is not so unhealthy as has been- generally repre- 
sented, and that instances of longevity are as common 
here as in many other states. 

The storm continuing to increase, I was compelled to 
put up, and about two o'clock stopped at the house of a 
Mr. Debruls, where I was well entertained. The roads 
had become quite muddy, which rendered the travelling 
unpleasant. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 351 

The next morning the violence of the storm had in 
some measure abated, but it still continued to rain, and 
tlie weather was so cold that it froze considerably. The 
roads had now become very bad, and the travelling disa- 
greeable. The thermometer stood at 34° when I start- 
ed, and the rain froze as fast as it fell. After travelling 
about eight miles I crossed Wood creek, which is about 
twelve yards wide, and ten miles from thence came to 
Lynche's creek, which I had much difficulty in crossing, as 
the late rain had swelled the creek much beyond its usu- 
al dimensions, and the quantities of drift-w ood made the 
passing of it dangerous. About dark I put up at Mrs, 
Winn's, where I was very well entertained. 

The next morning the weather was extremely cold, the 
wind being from the northwest. At 10 o'clock I crossed 
West creek, and proceeded through a level and fertile 
country, which produced plentiful crops of rice, tobacco^ 
and cotton. This part of the country is healthy, the air 
being pure and salubrious in the summer months. It is 
much resorted to by invalids from the lower parts of the 
state. Towards 3 o'clock the weather became stormy 
and disagreeable, which induced me to put up at the 
house of Mrs. Cruger, a widow lady, who entertained 
me with much hospitality. 

In the morning I rode forward through a country very 
similar to what I passed yesterday, and six miles from 
Mrs. Cruger's crossed the Pedee river. This river has its 
rise in North- Carolina, where it is called Yadkin river. 
It receives the waters of Lynche's creek, Little PedeCp 
and Black river. The land on the borders of this river 
is good, and there are many valuable plantations situated, 
''vhich are of 8:reat wealth to the owners. I went fonvard 



52 KER'S TRAVELS. 



about fourteen miles, and stopped at the house of a Mr, 
Low, who treated me with great poHteness. 

In the morning I went forward ten miles, and after 
crossing Lunbee river, proceeded on a good road through 
a country of a rich soil. The land rises from the north- 
east into small hills, which are covered with a growth of 
timber which is large, and in many places very thick. 
In the evening I put up at Mr. M'May's, having rode 
about thirty-five miles. 

I started very early, and rode ten miles to breakfast 
-with a gentleman to whom I had a letter. He informed 
me that the soil about here was not the richest, although 
there were many spots which yielded large and good 
crops. 

The complexion of the inhabitants now began to ac=. 
quire that yellow sickly cast which is so common to those 
who reside in the neighbourhood of marshes and swamps, 
and 'many of the children had not tlie appearance of that 
cleanliness which is the sure preservative of health. I 
stopped at the house of a woman to enquire the way, and 
as 1 rode up to the door was saluted with the barking of 
dogs, the squalling of the pigs, and the vociferating lungs 
of about a dozen children who bawled out mamma, 
mamma, here's a man, and were ready to jump out of 
their skins. 

This is only to be accounted for by a defect in their 
education ; the southern states are much behind the 
northern and eastern states in this particular. General 
information is more equally diffused in the latter states, 
and it is a rare thing to find a child of seven years old that 
cannot read. The southern states being divided into 
plantations, do not afford that easy communication which 



ItER'S TRAVELS. 3S3 

IS to be found where the country is agreeably chequered 
with towns and villages. Those, however, who reside in 
large towns, or in the neighbourhood of schools, are gen- 
erally as anxious about the improvement of their children 
as any others. 

In the evening I arrived at Fayetteville,' in North- 
Carolina, having rode thirty-three miles. My horse had 
become considerably fatigued, and seemed ready to give 
out, I therefore deemed it advisable to remain here a few 
days. I found the accommodations good at Mr. Duf- 
ling's, who _gave me all the information in his power of 
the town and its vicinity. 

Fayetteville is pleasantly situated on the west side of the 
northwest branch of Cape Fear river, nearly at the head 
of navigation, large vessels coming no higher than Wil- 
miqgton, which is one hundred miles distant. It is the 
seat of justice for the county of Cumberland, and Fay- 
etteville district. The principal part of the town is 
situated about a mile from the river. The town is regu- 
larly laid out, and contains some very elegant brick 
buildings, and has four thousand five hundred inhabitants. 
It has two handsome edifices for the meeting of district 
and county courts, and the meeting of town officers, 
citizenSj &c. on public occasions. The Freemason's 
lodge is a large and handsome building, constructed at 
the expense of the lodge. Some of the principal streets 
are very spacious, being one hundred feet wide. 

Near the banks of the river are several tobacco ware- 
houses which have received in one year eight fliousand 
hogsheads of tobacco, said to be equal in quality to that 
which is shipped from Petersburgh. Here are four mills, 
which supply the neighbourhood with corn- meal ; three 

45 



354 KER'S TBAA^ELS. 

distilleries for ardent spirits, and four breweries, besides 
several extensive tanyards, which do considerable bu- 
siness. 

The trade from this town to Wilmington is very con- 
siderable. Large quantities of tobacco, wheat, flour, 
beef, pork, flax-seed, hemp, cotton, butter, lumber, 
staves, naval stores, &c. are annually sent down. 

Lumber and naval stores may be considered as the 
staple commodities of this state. They are derived from 
the pitch pine, which is a tall, handsome tree, much su- 
perior to the pitch pine of the northern states. From this 
tree are made pitch, tar, rosin, and lumber, which to- 
gether constitute one half of the exports of -the whole 
state. 



CHAP. XXXVIIL 

bescription of the country^ soil, climate, ^c. of North- 
Carolina — Manner in which the inhabitants spend their 
time. 

The western, hilly parts of North- Carolina, are as healthy 
as any part of the United States. The country is fertile, 
and abounds with springs and rivulets of pure water. 
Though the days are generally very warm in summer, 
yet the mornings and evenings are cooled and refreshed 
with breezes. The autumns are very pleasant, both in 
regard to the temperature and serenity of the weather 



KER'S TRAVELS. 355 

and the richness and variety of the vegetable productions 
which the season affords. 

The inhabitants of the flat country near the seacoast, 
during the summer and autumn, are subject to inter- 
mitting complaints, which frequently prove fatal, and 
also to bilious and nervous symptoms. These fevers are 
not dangerous to the residents who are temperate, nor to 
strangers who are prudent. They however, if suffered 
to continue for any lengdi of time, bring on other disor- 
ders, which greatly impair the vigour of the mind, debili- 
tate the constitution, and terminate in death. The coun- 
tenances of persons living in the flat country, at this sea- 
son of the year assume a pale yellow cast, occasioned by 
the prevalence of bilious symptoms. 

It has been observed that more of the inhabitants, es- 
pecially of the men, die during the winter by pleurisies 
and peripneumonies, than in the warm months by bilious 
complaints. These pleurisies are brought on by intem- 
perance, and by an imprudent exposure to the weather. 
Were the inhabitants prudent and cautious in these re- 
spects, it has been alleged,, and witli some degree of 
probability, that they might in a great measure escape the 
danger of these fatal diseases. The wearing of flannel 
next to the skin during the winter, is reckoned an excel- 
lent preventative of the diseases incident to this cli- 
mate. 

The inhabitants of this state are mostly planters, and 
live at the distance of fi^om half a mile to three or foiu' 
miles from each otiier, on their plantations. They have 
a plentiful country, and a natural fondness for society, 
which renders them hospitable to strangers. 

The general topics of conversation among the men, 



356 KER'S TRAVELS. 

when cards, the bottle, and occurrences of the day do not 
interfere, are the negroes, the prices of indigo, rice, to- 
bacco, &c. Less attention and respect are paid to the 
^vomen here, than in many other parts of the United 
States. It has been mentioned by some that respect for 
the women generally keeps pace with civilization, and 
that the increase of civilization may be estimated by the 
respect which is paid by husbands to their wives, and by 
young men to the young women. ' 

Temperance and industry are not to be reckoned 
among the virtues of the North- Carolinians. The time 
which they waste in drinking, idling, and gambling, 
leaves them very little opportunity to improve their plan- 
tations or their minds ; the improvement of the former is 
left to their overseers and negroes, and that of the latter 
is too often neglected. If the time which is wasted was 
spent in cultivating the soil and treasuring up knowledge, 
they might be both wealthy and learned, for they have a 
productive country, and are by no means destitute of 
genius. 

This, it is to be observed, is given as the general 
character of the planters in a body : there are many ex- 
ceptions to this general estimate, men who are eminent 
for their learning and virtue ; but in general, the citizens 
of North- Carolina who are not emplo) ed in better busi- 
ness, spend their time in drinking, gaming, cock-fightings 
or horse-racing. 



KER'S TRAVELS. 357 



CHAP. XXXIX. 

Author takes the stage for TVilmington — Conversation 
between the passengers —Elizabethtown — Description 
of the country — PFibnington, N, C. — Depar^ture for 
Philadelphia — Good accommodations — Arrival at JVil- 
jningtony Del, — Take stage for Philadelphia. 

At Fayetteville I sold my horse, determining to take 
the stage for Wilmington, from which place I expected 
to find a ready conveyance by water to Philadelphia. 

About twelve o'clock the stage arrived at Fayetteville, 
but was so crowded with, passengers that it was impossi- 
ble for me to carry my baggage, or find room enough for 
myself to sit down ; I therefore resigned my baggage to 
the care of a boatman, who was to descend the river the 
jiext day, and went forward in the stage. 

The stage contained eight passengers besides myself 
and the driver. The greatest part of them were gentle- 
men ^vte were going to Wilmington for the purpo&e of 
selling tobacco and other productions of their plantations, 
and as most of them were men of property, and of some 
mfluence in the part of the country where they belonged, 
I paid a little attention to their conversation. 

The first one which broke silence after I got into tlie 
stage was an elderly gentleman, who observed, in reply 
to some conversation which had before passed, " 1 hope, 
sir, you will allow that we have at least gained respecta- 
bility by the war, that our national cliaracter has been 
raised considerably in the estimation of foreign powers.'- 



358 KER'S TRAVELS. 

" No sir," replied the gentleman to whom this was ad- 
dressed, " I cannot believe that we have gained any re- 
spectability, or raised ourselves in the estimation of for- 
eign powers, by declaring war against a power which was 
contending for the liberties of the world, and which had, 
by the number of able negociators she had sent here, en- 
deavoured to make peace on honourable terms." 

" Very true," observed another gentleman, " and our 
government is deserving of censure for declaring war 
against a nation whose resources were so ample, and 
whose long experience both by land and sea rendered 
them almost invincible. We ought to have been glad to 
have come upon any terms sooner than to have attempt- 
ed such a thing." 

" So, sir," said a gentleman who had hitherto remain- 
ed silent, " because a nation is powerful, you would 
tamely submit your liberties to be trampled upon, and 
yourself to be considered as tributary to a government 
which is notorious for its ambition, and deride your ow^n 
government because it had the patriotism to repel the 
aggressions of such a powerful marauder. Had we been 
unfortunate during this war, there might have been some 
excuse for the grumbling of many gentlemen, and the 
preaching up of the invincibility of the British army and 
navy ; but the brilliant victories which our American 
tars have obtained over British seamen who have been 
inured by practice, with the success of our raw militia 
under generals Brown, Jackson, and others, fully prove 
that we are not so vastly inferior as the nick-named peace 
party would endeavour to make us believe." 

The gentleman who had so ably defended the valour 
G,f Great- Britain, havuig no answer immediately at hand, 



KER'S TRAVELS. 359 

temained silent, and our driving up to the inn at Eliza- 
bethtowai put an end to the conversation. 
' Elizabethtovvn, where we put up for the nighty is a 
small place in Bladen county, about forty -one' miles from 
Fayetteville, and fifty -five from Wilmington. It has a 
few handsome buildings, a court-house which is a con- 
venient building, and a gaol. The accommodations at 
Mr. Campbell's were very good. 

In the morning, at daylight, we proceeded. The 
travelling was very good, but our horses were indeed 
miserable. They were generally composed of brokeix 
down creatures which had been rendered unfit for use, 
and then turned over to go in the stages. This is not the 
case in the northern states, where there are a number of 
opposition stages, which make it the interest of the pro- 
prietors to provide good horses and careful drivers. 

The country through which we passed this day was 
sandy, and appeared to be of a poor soil. The planta- 
tions had not that neat appearance which they have in the 
hilly parts of the country. 

Eighteen miles distant from Elizabethtown, we stopped 
to breakfast at Mr. M'Gilvary's. At this house I saw a 
lady who was termed the beauty of North- Carolina. She 
was on her way to the upper parts of the country for her 
health, which was on the decline. Her form was truly 
elegant, and her face might with truth be said to be the 
model of perfection. Although robbed of that bloom 
which gives animation to the countenance, her features 
derived an interesting expression fi*om their paleness, 
which it was impossible for any one to behold without 
admiration. The charms of her person, however, were 
c-clipsed by the charms of her mind. Her expressioi^ 



360 KER^S TRAVELS. 

was elegant, and her politeness truly unaffected. She: 
conversed with ease on many subjects, and seemed to 
possess that information which is not generally afforded 
to her sex, and which the time devoted to the toilet 
almost always excludes. 

About three o'clock we arrived in Wilmington, and 
put up at a house where we had excellent accommoda- 
tions. I was informed by the landlord that the brig 
Pioughboy, which had superior accommodations, woiild 
in three days sail for Philadelphia, and that the captain of 
the brig would be at the tavern in a short time. He soon 
called, and I engaged a passage for Philadelphia. 

Wilmington, the capital of Wilmington district, is 
,situated on the east side of the eastern branch of Cape 
Fear river, and is thirty- four miles distant from the sea» 
It is pleasantly situated, and contains about four hundred 
houses, many of which are very handsome. There is a 
handsome court-house, and other public buildings, in 
which most of the district business is transacted. There 
IS also an elegant Episcopal church, and some other 
houses for public worship. 

This to\vn carries on a considerable trade with the 
West- Indies, and with the middle and eastern states. 
The exports for the year 1812 amounted to 200,538 dol- 
lars, above one half of which consisted of lumber and 
naval stores. They export from this place tar, pitch, 
turpentine, rosin, Indian corn, boards, scantling, staves, 
shingleSj furs, tobacco, pork^ lard, tallow, beeswax, gcc. ; 
and they receive from the northern states flour, cheese, 
cider, apples, potatoes, iron wares, cabinet wares, hats, 
and dry goods of every kind. 

It is no uncommon thing for a planter in this state to 



KER'S TRAVELS. 361 

inark from five hundred to one thousand calves in a 
year. After this no further attention is paid to them un- 
til they are fit for slaughter. Their pork is raised with 
as little trouble, though from being fed on acorns it is apt 
to become oily unless hardened with corn. 

The captain of the Ploughboy was detained by contrary 
winds and unsettled business until five days after my ar- 
rival in Wilmington ; during which time a number of 
passengers arrived, which promised to render the passage 
very agreeable. i 

Early onjthe morning of the fifth day after my arrivajy 
the captain informed me that he should be ready to start 
in the afternoon of that day. My things were soon ar- 
ranged and put on board the vessel, and I waited with 
impatience for the time of our departure. About four 
o'clock we cleared from the wharf, and proceeded out of 
the river under easy sail. 

The accommodations of the Ploughboy were of a su- 
perior kind, every attention having been paid by the 
captain to procure good servants, and such provision as 
would be agreeable to passengers. Those persons who 
wish to go on to the northward by the way of Philadel- 
phia, would find it advantageous to go to Wilmington 
and from thence to proceed by water, as the conveyance 
is not only the cheapest, but the best which can be pro- 
cured. 

There were about eighteen passengers on board the 
Ploughboy, five of whom were ladies. The gentlemen 
were principally merchants who had been making pur- 
chases at the southward, and their company was very 
agreeable and entertaining. 

The weather was remarkably fine, and we were fa- 

46 



362 KER'S TRAVELS. 

voured with a good wind which carried us along at the 
rate of seven miles an hour. 

About dark we passed Brunswick, which is situated 
on the west side of Cape Fear river, and was formerly 
the best built town in the state. It is seventeen miles 
distant from Wilmington. Formerly it carried on con- 
siderable trade, and was the seat of government ; at pres- 
ent there are but few houses inhabited. 

The second day after our departure from Wilmington 
tve crossed Cape Hatteras straits,^ which are sometimes 
very dangerous, and have proved the ruin of many fine 
vessels, and the bankruptcy of their owners. This 
shoal has been accurately laid down by a number of skil- 
ful navigators ; but experience demonstrates that the 
strong cun*ents hereabouts, which are only the counter- 
currents of the gulf stream, shift the sands, and cause 
them to be continually varying their position. 

At present the out shoals, which lie about fourteen 
miles southwest of the cape, are but of five or six acres 
in extent, and where they are really dangerous to vessels 
of moderate draught, not more than half that number of 
acres. On the shoalest part of these there is at low w^ater 
about ten feet, and here at times the ocean breaks in a 
tremendous manner, spouting as it w^ere to the clouds, 
from the violent agitation of the gulf stream, which touch- 
es the eastern edge of tlie banks, from whence the de- 
clivity is sudden, from ten fathoms to no soundings. In 
moderate weather, however, these shoals may be passed 
over at full tide, if necessary, without much danger, by 
vessels not drawing more than eight, nine, or ten feet of 
water. 

On the sixth day after our departure from the mouti: 



KER'S TRAVELS. 363 

of the river, we arrived at the capes of Delaware and the 
next day we arrived opposite to Wihnington, which has 
a ^ery handsome appearance from the water. Most of 
the water and Fovision for vessels bound to fore.ga 
ports are here taken on board. As the wind was unfair 
I indeed it most expeditious to go on shore, and found 
that a majority of the passengers were of the same opm- 

'""riie town of Wilmington is the most considerable in 
the state of I>elaware, and derives considerable advantage 
from the number of vessels which are employed in gomg 
to and from Philadelphia. It is situated on Christiana 
and Brandywine creeks, which unite, and are four hun- 
dred yards wide where they empty into the Delaware 
river The principal part of the town is situated on die 
southwest side of a hill, on the opposite side of which 
are a number of mUls for grain, well known by the name 
of the Brandywine mills, in which large quantities of flour 
are manufactured. The Christiana admits vessels of fif- 
teen feet draught of water up to tlie town, and those ot 
ten feet eight miles further. r o, •, , , , • 

Wilmington is laid out on the plan of Philadelphia, 
and contains upwards 6f eleven hundred houses and five 
thousand inhabitants. The houses for public vyorship 
are many of them neat and elegant; the prmcipal of 
which are two for Presbyterians, one for Swedish Luthe- 
rans, one for Baptists, one for Friends, and a Methodist 

^ On the west side of the town stands the poor-house, 
which is a neat building, one hundred and twenty feet by 
forty, and three stories high. It is a monument of the 
humanity and benevolence of the inhabitants. The 



364 KER'S TRAVELS. 

schools in this town are well supported, there being 
above four hundred children who go to the public semi- 
naries in town. The Latin and Greek languages are 
taught here, and the town can boast ' of some men of 
eminent learning and integrity. 

I met with an occurrence soon after my arrival in town, 
which caused me once more to take notice of that perfect 
spirit of equality which reigns among those respectable 
people called Quakers. Wanting some information rela- 
tive to the seminaries of learning, pubUc edifices, &c. I 
was directed to the house of a respectable gentleman who 
held a public station in the town. 1 went to his house, 
and, on my ringing the bell, a servant girl came to the 
door, of whom I inquired if her master was within. She 
stood for a moment, and then replied, " I have got 
no master." I then inquired if her mistress was at home. 
To which she answered, " I have got no mistress." 
*' Why, don't you live here, my girl ?" said I. " No," 
she replied, " 1 only stay here : if you want to see Mr. 
Willis, I will call him, but he is no master of mine." I 
apologized for my mistake, and resolved for the future 
to drop the application of master and mistress. 



CHAP. XL. 

Arrival in Philadelphia — General description of the city. 

In the course of the next day I took passage in the Dili- 
gence stsge, and proceeded for Philadelphia. The com- 
piiny consibled of four passengers besides myself, two of 



KER'S TRAVELS. 365 

whom were residents of Philadelphia, and two of Balti- 
more. The time was spent very agreeably, an animated 
discourse being kept up by the party until we arrived in 
Philadelphia. I put up at the Washington Hotel, and 
found excellent accommodations. 

The city of Philadelphia is the most regular and best 
built city in the United States. Its streets are most of 
them straight, spacious, and clean. Its dwellings are 
principally of brick or stone, and from three to four sto- 
ries high. It is said, and with justice, to be the besfe 
governed city in the world. 

The ground plot of the city is an oblong square, and 
fronts on the west side of the Delaware, where the river 
is a mile in breadth. The streets which are parallel with 
the water are named from number one to fifteen, and are 
all of them paved. 

The population of this city, according to the census of 
1810, amounted to one hundred and eleven thousand one 
hundred and thirty- six ; but the increase of its population 
has been very considerable since that time. 

The trade of the whole state of Pennsylvania is princi- 
pally carried on from this city, and its merchants drive a 
trade to the four quaners of the globe. The elegant con- 
struction of their ships has given them a superior advan- 
tage in this respect, and many of the ship builders have 
made themselves independent. Some of the merchants 
are immensely rich, having capitals of from half a million 
to three millions of dollars in circulation, and owning from, 
twenty to thirty sail of vessels. 

This city has been severely afflicted with pestilential 
diseases, which have swept off thousands of its inhab- 
itants, and kft an impression that the local situation of 



366 KER'S TRAVELS. 

Philadelphia is unhealthy ; but the indefatigable exer^ 
tions of the corporation to render the streets perfectly 
clean, and the judicious experiments of the learned Dr. 
Rush, have proved that it is of foreign importation, and 
under judicious health regulations this city is as free from 
disease as any part of the United States. 

In this city there are thirty houses for public worship ; 
five for the Friends, six for Presbyterians and Seceders, 
two for German Lutherans, one for German Calvinists, 
geven for Episcopalians, four for Roman Catholics, one for 
Swedish Lutherans, one for Moravians, one for Cove- 
nanters, one for Baptists, one for Africans, and one for 
Universalists. 

A society for alleviating the miseries of prisoners is es- 
tablished in this city, and is an honour to the philanthropy 
and benevolence of its inhabitants. Under the care of 
this society, the penitentiary has become a regular manu- 
factory. A variety of the different branches of manufac- 
tures arc there canied on, and to excite the industry of 
the prisoners, they receive all they have earned after de- 
ducting one shilling and six pence for their daily ex- 
penses. The penitentiary of New- York is said to be an 
improvement of this plan, and the prisoners are said to 
be better lodged and fed there than they are in this city. 

The public library is a valuable institution, and con- 
tains upwards of fourteen thousand volumes, besides a 
valuable collection of rare books, which were presented 
to the institution by James Logan, Esq. It has a muse- 
um attached to it, with a valuable and complete set of 
philosophical apparatus. 

The museum, kept by Mr. Peale, is celebrated all over 
the United States for the valuable collection of birds and 



KER'S TRAVELS. 367 

other rare natural curiosities. Here the mineralogist will 
find many specimens of ores, fossils, Sec. which are not 
only extremely rare, but well worthy his attention. 

The academy of the fine arts have erected a neat and 
elegant building, in which are some well executed speci- 
mens of ^jainting and sculpture, which do credit to the 
American artist, and will receive the just tribute of praise 
from the connoisseur and the man of taste. 

The hospital is a large and commodious building, and 
under such wise and salutary regulations as render it a 
blessing to the community at large. It is well attended 
with physicians and surgeons, and the celebrated Dr* 
Rush has performed many cures in it which have been of 
much service to the medical world. Attached to this 
building is a poor-house, which, with the hospital, is said 
to contain five hundred persons* 

Two of the banks which are established in this city 
are vei^ elegant, particularly that which was formerly 
considered the United States' bank, now belonging to 
Mr. Gerard, the front of which is of white marble. Tht? 
national bank of the United States, it is understood, is to 
be estabhshed at Philadelphia. If another building should 
be erected as elegant as that which has been mentioned, 
this city would be famous for the number and beauty of 
its public buildings. 

The markets of tliis city are excellent, and exceeded 
by none in the United States in extent, or the vai'iety and 
abundance of their productions. The beef is reckoned 
superior to that of New- York, and the variety and excel- 
lence of their vegetables are said to be exceeded by none 
in the United States, or even in Europe. 

An university is established in this city, which is hand- 



' / ■ 

368 KER'S TRAVELS. 

somely endowed, and well furnished with learned and 
able professors. This university has probably furnished 
its full quota of men of eminence on the practical theatre 
of the United States. Men of high professional charac- 
ter in law, physic, and divinity, have there imbibed the 
elements of science ; and not a few of them have been 
indebted to it for their whole education. 

The masonic hall, lately erected by the grand lodge of 
Pennsylvania, is a superb and elegant piece of architec- 
ture, and reflects credit upon the talents of the American 
architect. There is a great number of subordinate 
lodges. 

Education receives particular attention in Philadelphia, 
almost every religious society having a school under its 
immediate patronage ; besides there are respectable acade- 
mies and schools in different parts of the city, in which 
the sexes are taught various branches both useful and 
ornamental. A school for the Africans is likewise estab- 
lished and has received liberal encouragement and sup- 
port from the inhabitants of this city, and is productive 
of much good. 

" In short," to conclude in the language of a pious and 
elegant writer, " whether we consider the local situation, 
the size, the beauty, the variety, and utility of the im- 
provements in mechanics, in agriculture, and manufac- 
tures ; or the industry, the enterprize, the humanity, and 
the abilities of the inhabitants of the city of Philadelphia^ 
it merits to be viewed as the first city in the United 
States." 



A^-i: 



KER'S TRAVELS. o69 



CHAP. XLI. 

Trenton — Princeton — New -Brunswick — Briclgetortn — 
Arrival at Elizabethtown, and conclusion of the author'' s 
travels* 

I STAID a few days in Philadelphia, and then took pas- 
sage in the steam-boat line for New- York. I went on 
board the steam-boat at 8 o'clock in the morning, and 
had an agreeable passage up tlie Delaware to Borden - 
town, which is pleasantly situated at the mouth of Cross- 
wick's creek, on the east bank of the Delaware river, 
about twenty- six miles from Philadelphia, and seven 
miles from Trenton. It is a small thriving place, and 
has an academy. From Bordentown we proceeded by 
stage to Trenton. 

Trenton is one of the largest towns in the state of 
New-Jersey, and is pleasantly situated on the east side 
of the Delaware river, opposite die falls. The river is 
not navigable above these falls, except for small boats. 
The town contains about three hundred houses, and 
about three thousand one hundred inhabitants. The le- 
gislature meets here, and there is a handsome court-house 
for their accommodation. The supreme court sits in this 
town, and most of the public offices are kept here. The 
Episcopalians, Presbyterians, and Methodists, have each 
a church for religious worship. There is a flourishing 
academy in the town, and the public houses afford ex- 
cellent accommodations for travellers. 

There are a number of elegant country seats in the 

47 



370 KER»S TRAVELS. 

neighbourhood of Trenton, situated on the banks of the 
Delaware river, which are ornamented with taste and 
elegance. 

The road through part of the country is over a fine 
turnpike, which has been made at a considerable expense 
and is kept in excellent repair. It shortens the distance 
to ninety-five miles from Philadelphia to New- York. 

Ten miles from Trenton we passed through Prince- 
ton, which is pleasantly situated in Middlesex county. 
It has the appearance of being a flourishing and well built 
town. Nassau Hall college is situated in this place, and 
is one of the best conducted seminaries of education in 
the United States. It is a handsome stone building 
one hundred and eighty by fifty-four feet, three stories 
high, and stands on an elevated and airy situation, com- 
manding an extensive and beautiful prospect. The offi- 
cers consist of a president, who is a professor of moral 
philosophy, natural and revealed theology, history, and 
eloquence ; a professor of mathematics, a professor of 
chemistry, and a sufficient number of tutors. On Sab- 
bath evenings lectures are delivered in the college hall, 
to the students, on revealed religion, the Jewish and 
Christian antiquities, and sacred criticism. On Thurs- 
day evenings lectures are delivered to a theological class, 
who are bachelors of arts, on the system of divinity. 
The same class, on Tuesday evenings, exhibits essays 
or sermons to the president, for his remarks apd criti- 
cism. On Friday evenings, in the winter season, the 
graduates who reside in the college, meet to improve 
themselves in composition, and to discuss moral or lite- 
rary subjects. Most of the students belong to the two 
classes who meet, the one on Monday, and the other on 



KER'S TRAVELS. 371 

Wednesday evenings, for the same purposes. Between 
these two classes there is an ardent emulation, none being 
admitted into either who have a bad character. The 
seminary has turned out some men eminent for their 
learning and piety. 

Sixteen miles from Princeton we passed through 

New- Brunswick, which is a place of considerable trade. 

It is situated in Middlesex county, on the southwest side 

i*^ of tlie Raritan river, on low ground. There are a num- 

,)ber of buildings erected on a hill which rises back 

I of the town, >vhich is a pleasant and healthful situa- 

^vUion. Queen's college is situated in this town; it is of 

^'}M secondary rank, and is said to be in a flourishing state. 

^ The town contains about seven thousand inhabitants. 

:'<^ The road from New-Brunswick is very good, and the 

line of stages well supplied with good horses and careful 

,?t::^drivers. The accommodations for travelling from Phila- 

^t'^'delphia to New- York are, in every respect, equal to those 

•: on any road in the union, and I think superior to those 

from Liverpool to London. 

We stopped to change horses at Bridgeto\vn, which 
, is more generally known by the name of Rahway. It 
contains a number of stores filled with an extensive as- 
>^ sortment of goods, and appears to be a thriving town. 
5 The inhabitants are mostly Friends, and, as is usual with 
i< ' that respectable body of people, they are orderly, indus- 
ious, and attentive to business. 

At half past one o'clock we arrived at Elizabethtown, 

nd found the steam-boat ready to convey us to New- 

ork. My stay was so short that I was not able to obtain 

much information respecting the town ; but the number 

d r^egularity of its buildings, its shops filled with all the 



572 



KER'S TRAVELS, 



productions of Europe, the elegance of its churches, and 
the excellence of its accommodations for travellers, con- 
vinced me that it was a thriving place, and that it might 
justly be considered as one of the first towns in die state. 
We were soon hurried on board the steam-boat, which 
in a short time conveyed us to the city of New- York. 



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